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Took the 520 with blower out to the pond to get the heavy snow off then used the GT1848 with blade to get a nice surface.

I FINISHED THE 310-8 TODAY,I JUST NEED A NICER SEAT. REPAINTED THE WHEELS,FRONT AND REAR AXLE,FOOT RESTS AND HOOD GRILL BLACK. THE REST WAS SOAP WATER AND POLISHING. YOU GUYS LIKE PICTURES HERE THEY ARE. I THINK I WILL SELL MY 1982 SK486 THAT I BOUGHT NEW. IT IS UNRESTORED $1500

Work on 520-HC is coming along. Foot motion control is installed along with new bushings throughout. Made new front axle kingpin and installed. Steering is now nice and tight. Dash and gauges are installed. Wire harness is awaiting the new 9 pin connector before being installed. Engine has had heads pulled , all carbon removed, valves set. No wear at all in the cyl. bores. Engine has also been cleaned and de-greased on the exterior. Once new 9 pin connector is installed, engine will be re installed. Cleat

Yes, I did. I lucked into a guy with a 4x4 tow truck with a snow plow. He had to plow a path on a ridge at the rear of our property. Only able to get about 100' from the pond he had to winch it out. The tractor kept catching on the ice and he actually overheated the winch but he finally got it. He towed it off the ridge to the road south of us then back to the house. A total of about a mile. I took the seat inside and removed the cover. Once the tractor thawed I changed all the fluids and took all the precautions I could think of. I expected the worst because the motor was still running when it went in. Danged if that Briggs didn't start right up and ran fine. The only damage was the clutch rod that got all bent up. I got lucky. Even luckier was the fact that the tow truck driver who spent 3 hours there on a Super Bowl Sunday only charged me $40. He said that will cover his costs and the entertainment value that day was priceless.

In my experience, I would have to say that quite the opposite is true. The K-Series is one of the toughest engine out there. The rod is not a weak point if the engine is maintained properly. Old oil, lack of oil, and general misuse will cause any engine to have problems. Sometimes, when someone rebuilds an engine, they will install the connecting rod backwards with the oil hole in the cap pointing away from the camshaft, or they will not torques the bolts tight enough. Other times, in the process of disassembling or reassembling, they will damage the dipper, causing it to break off under load. I currently have 6 Wheel Horses with K-Series engines, and none have thrown a rod in all the hours they have been in service.

SHOOT IT!! With Red Paint

I recently bought one of these McDonough go karts , I understand these are used by Shriners in the US fo parades , these are extremely rare here in UK .

Ever since I won the lottery plowing has been fun.

This particular tractor was purchased "just to get me through winter plowing" while I located a new engine for my 520H. I don't know who had it before WHfan74 but Scott cut me a deal and Tom hauled it my way on one of his trips through Indiana. It ran so nice and I found it a very capable machine the more I worked it. Most of you are collectors and I've had my fair share of them over the years but this one really surprised me. I put a 48" deck under it and it cut my lawn with 1/2 the fuel my 520H. Even if the lawn got away from me in the spring it still did a decent job in tall grass situations. I have bad shoulders so I converted the front end to the forward swept axle and gear reduction steering. I put the 8.5" 520H rear rims on it to match. Being a huge fan of the hydro I didn't like the ground speed so after some reading I purchased a 5.5" hydro engine pulley from Kelly. 2nd gear hi and 80% throttle works perfect and I saved additional fuel and got the job done 15 minutes sooner. My ***ONLY*** dislike it reverse is to fast and you really have to watch it. I just plowed some with it today and took a few pictures of it. The charging system works perfectly. This is now my favorite Wheelhorse I've owned since I've started.

Well I had some nice weather today so I cleaned up the electro 12 took the rear fender and tool box off to give the hydro trans a good cleaning and engine shrouds this thing was probably the dirtiest one I've had yet but everything seems to work good hydraulic lift is nice also changed out the hood the one that came on it had been ran into something pretty hard here are a few pics didn't have time to put the seat back on

Zamboni time!!

Nice team... looks like they work well together.

Nice job! Looks like lots of seat time too.

If the battery tests OK , measure the voltage drop from the positive battery lug to the power terminal of the starter.. Make the measurement while the starter is cranking. Good wiring will show very little voltage drop (less than 0.5 volts). Poor wiring will show several volts dropped and therefore slower cranking. You can perform the same measurement on the ground wire from the battery to the starter case. This process will allow you to tell if the poor connection is in the positive wiring or the negative ground wiring.

If you have a voltmeter, just measure the voltage drop from the battery lug to the Generator terminal on the SG. I understand these illustrations do not show an SG system, but the concept is identical. Make the measurement while the SG is cranking. Good wiring will show very little voltage drop (less than 0.5 volts). Poor wiring will show several volts dropped and therefore slower cranking. You can perform the same measurement on the ground wire from the battery to the SG case. This process will allow you to tell if the poor connection is in the positive wiring or the negative ground wiring.

let me run a pipe cleaner thru my brain and put on something I can understand https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMqGpuQdIwk

Ken , previous owner was a vintage car dealer & had this car for years , he didn't really want to sell it but said he needed the space. I have only had the car a couple of weeks to haven't managed to get her up to top speed yet but i am told will it will reach a scary 15 mph .

Another hobby of mine is building electronics and electronic systems of all sorts. I've cobbled together all sorts of wire, cables and connectors for those activities. From that experience, I don't think the wiring harness on the D250 would be all that difficult to build yourself. I'm lucky, in that most of the wiring on my D250 is in relatively good shape. But I do have a couple of shorts that seem to cause the occasional lighting flicker. I've already begun to look at the possibility of replacing at least some of my wires on that tractor. The wires in my '76 D250 all seem to be 16 or 14 AWG "color coded" wires for the 8 amp circuits, or the '70's metric equivalent of these US sizes. The terminals are all crimp-type spade or push-on (the flat guys) connectors. These all can be found at the likes of your favorite auto parts, hardware (HD & Lowes for sure) and RadioShack or Best Buy. With this, you can simply replace one wire at a time, with the existing wires and the diagram as a reference. Unlike the autos of today, these tractors don't have a true cable harness with Molex connectors, but rather a collection of wires zip-tied together. I've learned a couple of tricks for automotive type wiring: I like the crimp terminals with heat shrink wrap for a permanent connection. They do well to protect the copper wire coming into the connector. I don't recommend using a flame to shrink, heat shrink. It will often melt the wire jacket. A hair dryer or heat gun are best. Crimp twice and tug. Make sure the connector doesn't slip off with a solid tug. "Bundle" wires where you can, once they are all flowing in the same direction. Zip-tie down any individual wires through their path, every 12-18". Rattling wires can be incredibly annoying. The same stores I mentioned sell sheathing that you can either wrap around a set of finished wires, or feed them through and zip-tie or tape the ends. This does a few things: - makes for a nice clean compartment, with wiring - provides added protection from the elements - keeps one wire from getting loose and finding it's way into moving parts While you're replacing wires you may also want to consider replacing the original fuse block with a new one. Generic ones are available at the auto parts store for less than $10. That will give you the opportunity to switch to the type of automotive fuses we use here in the US, which are much easier to come by. If you feel comfortable with a wire cutter and a crimper, you should have little trouble replacing the wires. Good Luck! ~Greg

You can mix or match parts and it will still be a Wheel Horse. Another Wheel Horse saved, and you did it your way.

When we went up to Niagara Falls Canada a couple of years ago they were using Flymos all over the park on slopes. They tied a rope to the handle and lowered it down. When it got to the bottom they pulled it up, moved over one step and did it again. I was as fascinated by that as I was the falls. Almost.

Lawn Rangers

During my recent project I decided to build an engine stand for Kohler single cylinder rebuilds, this is what I came up with.

I picked up a low hour Onan that is out of a 520H for a song and a dance! The tractor had just over 500 hours when the transmission crapped out. The PO parted out the rest of the tractor and kept the engine to use at a later date (which he never did). It's complete except for the PTO. I'm either going to put it on the C-81 or the C-125. The crankshaft on the Onan is 1 1/8". I think the Kohler K181 is 1". What size is the K301? Does anyone have a PTO setup for a 1 1/8" shaft? I also need the engine mounting plate, part number 113875. Either mounting it in the C-81 or the C-125, should make for one beastly machine

I have just finished a mock-up of my 18 Auto with extra wide fenders. I noticed that the stock fenders did not cover the whole width of the 12" tires, and would not cover dual 15" ags sooo... I took them to my welder friend along with a pair from my parts tractor and asked if he could take four narrow fenders trim off opposing edges of each and weld them together to make two wide fenders. He also is quite handy at body work and agreed to do it. I only had two extra holes in each of one pair (where a previous owner had replaced the original tail lights with a wider base) the other fenders were unmolested. I had my friend fill in the extra holes, so all that remained was the 4 mounting holes at the front and 6 holes at the rear. This way the wider fenders can accomodate two reflectors each and two tail lights each!!! I also may try to use a section of footrest from the parts tractor to sort of fill the void between the extra mounting holes (those on the outside) and the original footrest. Still trying to work out a design that comes close to looking factory. Looks like files are too big, I try in another post.

got the new rings installed today in the commando 8 along with the tire chains and later I will put the wheel weights on yahoo

Hey ... all younze K532 guys ... here's a little carb tidbit ... that you probably all ready know, but I just found out!! lol If you look on the parts sheet for the carb, it shows the nut that holds on the float bowl, as part number 25-041-02. But if you order that, all you get is the gasket!! It took my local Kohler parts geek 2 weeks to find someone at Kohler with the correct part number ... 47-100-06-S, which as you can see, come as the correct nut, WITH gasket!!

Thanks for chiming in Eric. It's certainly not something I'm upset about and my posting this was an inquiry rather than a complaint. These great little red tractors are an incredible hobby and I'm just thankful for the WHCC for having the show and this forum. For no better known than what Wheel Horses are nation and world wide the following they have is simply amazing.

Have you tried turning the starter with the hose/line from the pump to the carburetor disconnected to see what kind of flow if any you have? If there is none, take the pump apart and see what the problem is. There are only 3 moving parts in the pump, the diaphragm, and two little spring-loaded discs that operate as one-way valves. If debris gets lodged behind one of the discs, it keeps the fuel from pumping. If the diaphragm is torn, you will get no pumping. Aftermarket rebuild kits are available, I personally don't like the ones I've tried. I'd search eBay for a new or good used replacement.

I have a 314-A, 314-8, 314-H, 520 and a 1968 raider 12 and i like them all. My wife wants me to scale back but i can't make myself sell them off. It really is a sickness!

Now you can cut a hole and go swimming!

My wife will be at the show. She said we have to take 2 tractors this time.

Time to throw on the hockey gear!

Me to. Off to get some x rays.

Better pack your lunch.

The very first thing I would do is ditch the Tecky power...

Before you run the above tests, I would advise measuring the battery voltage AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS while cranking the engine. Battery voltage dropping under 10 volts while the engine is cranking is a sure sign of a compromised battery.

oh lovely you got a 68 there last of the rounds hoods!!!! defiantly worth getting then. that is what my current ranger project is james

Sounds like you need a battery with more cranking amps PS. Went through the same thing with my commando 8

Well, that is a little different....maybe. Did the tractor start before you tore it apart?? Did you have the starter off the engine?? It could be a low battery (check that first), it could be a shim under the starter to line it up better...if one was there before, could be a bad ground keeping the starter from getting all the juice it needs. Check battery and grounds first...then you will have to pull the starter. it did sound weak in your video. If you do a search in "Engines" and in the "Electric" sections...type in "starters" a number of topics come up...some of them for the 520H.

The shaft the Bendix spins on could be dirty. You can pull the starter, spray the shaft with brake cleaner and lube (I think) with dry lube...graphite. Some NAPA's used to be able to check your starter and/or send it out to be fixed.

It wouldn't be 'numbers matching' and it would hurt your sale price on Barrett Jackson but it's a lot of fun and you'll end up with a great tractor. sorry, I'm watching the Scottsdale auction as I type this....

I took several piles of parts from donor tractors and built this from scratch. It's not a 1045, but it is proof that if you can dream it, you can build it.

Ok but you will need to select an appropriate fuse from the list below

1992 Toro Wheelhorse 520H

They all deserve to be saved. And turn that hood emblem around!

My littlest has decided its her seat

Neat idea... for that...you know..."heavy load".

Stripped down to frame and rear end. Sanded and painted. Bits and pieced being painted. Tunnel rear section where cracked has been repaired. Also tore down deck. No issue with rust but lots of cracks and some really bad globs of weld here and there. Cleat

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I am a member of a half dozen clubs who's shows I attend, I join and pay my dues because they provide me with the chance to enjoy my hobby. After seeing the kind of show the WHCC puts on I plan to join (even if I have to use a postage stamp) and make the big show next year. We are the show, but the WHCC has their act togather and provides us a great chance to enjoy our hobby; we ALL need to join.