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Well another one heading to a new home, I gave this to my son and wife for a wedding present, I gave them a deck, plow weights and chains and a larger set of turf tires for summer, it runs like a top, only has 2 rust spots, no hour meter but I think it is very low hours, carb even has almost no wear on it, I've had it for a few years needing TLC but no one would give me $300 for the tractor, and I could see it was to nice to part out, well now it has a good home, I put the TLC into it, that it needed, and like I said runs like a top now, plowed with it for 20 min. before loading it to head to it's new house. gotta love a nice 312 8 speed

I purchased this from our very own Scotty, right on RS. his grandfather delivered it today. super clean and tight. very happy. I have been unable to find a running round hood local so this is awesome, starts drives, even the parking brake works.

Well,went to look at / buy another 312-8.The owner also had a Case 446.Being a good salesman,he convinced me that I also needed the case.Two 40 minute trips later,I have them both home.The Case has a 48 inch left discharge mower and a 16 horse Onan.I know.Some folks here hate Onans.It runs great.I'd like to find a snowblower or snow plow for it.That Case is a beast of a tractor.It's in my shop now next to a WH 520H.The 520 looks pretty small next to it.What's on the hood of the 312,I don't know if it was the previous owners nick name or the name of the horse.Enjoy the pics.

Everyone loved the idea, better than handing them a few hundred $$ to spend, he takes care of it, it can serve him for years, and I know a guy that has lots of parts to keep it going.

Note to Kelly... I'm currently up for adoption.

What else does a retired guy hafta do with his time but make movies! We Got slammed w 18" last night Chucked this morn and probably will later this Eve. Nothing like more seat time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQKNiU3fOD4&list=UU7wuEBq4kYyHz0ytg3WDv2g

Morning all, more progress has been made but once again things are happening much slower than I'd like.. But such is life eh.. Both rear wheels have now been converted to the 4 bolt Reliant pattern which is a big step forward.. With both rear wheel bolted on I could finally get an idea on wide Why Not's rear end is.. Best have a look at the front end now.. as I plan to fit disc brakes to the front I need a pair of wheel hubs and wheels that will fit.... So out came the grinder to cut the centers out of a pair of wheels that Doug kindly sent me.. The wheel centers came with a handy strengthener plate welded inside.. A very handy strengthener plate as it turned out as it's the perfect fit inside the front wheel.. But it was only when I put the wheel center in the lathe that I noticed quite how much the manufacturing process had warped the wheel around the center and bolt holes.. No matter how much I tried it would just not sit right/central in the lathe! Time for plan B.... Make my own wheel centers.. Here we go again, more time at the lathe... It's a good job I find it relaxing

Here are a few more pics

Hello everyone! Very excited to be joining this community! ive spent some time reading on here and trying to learn about my newly acquired 211-5SB wheel horse lawn tractor. My wife and i just bought our first house last july from the nicest old couple who we still stay in contact with. the property is just under a half acre at .42 acres. small house 1000 sq ft and an over sized detached 2 car garage, the couple liked us so much they decided to sell us pretty much the entire contents of the garage and two garden sheds for $200. Best deal of my life id have to say. just to name the bigger items that came with this purchase, the wheel horse tractor of course! a craftsman roto tiller, pressure washer, self propelled push mower, two chain saws, an old roll around craftsman tool box, and tons of tools and odds and ends, iv already put to use lots of the left over wood, built a dog house and other things with it. And im still finding treasures every time i clean out another corner. anyways that being said i am a gardener, but i only had one garden bed before. barley enough for a decent tomato crop. i always ended up overcrowding my plants. but now i have all this land and this great tractor. the old man took good care of it. regular oil changes and left me a spare belt somewhere according to him as well as the manual. I have yet to find them. The thing runs like a champ and carries my 260 lb self like nothing. I want to learn as much as i can about this thing and keep it in good working condition as i would love to be able to use it in my effort to build my dream garden and feed my family. i plan on having way more than i need so i can sell some at the local farmers market and donate the rest to charity. I'm hoping i can sell enough to sustain the garden and keep a decent donation while still feeding at least my wife and I. This may take some years to get right but its kind of a dream/goal of mine to accomplish and hope this tractor will help me get the job done! well thats my wheel horse story, so far. if anyone can point me in the right direction about my 211-5SB and what i can learn. I really don't know much about it but i know i can handle taking good care of it. just need an education on the damn thing! I am an apprentice mechanic by trade so im pretty handy. as far as maintenance i dont know what to put in the thing or how often to change it or common things to look for. I'm also super interested in implements for gardening that might help with my project. sorry for the long post just so excited for this to get going. I cant wait for the spring time!

Out of my garage and into a work space where I don't park cars. It's got heat and air plus lots of light and lots of electrical outlets. Still needs paint, landscaping, entrance ramp and a whole lot inside.Here's a few photos.

Here's a new twist in loading ramps , They convert from a tongue mounted carrier to a set of loading ramps . Wish I would have thought of this . For $200.00 they're about the same price as a good set of aluminum ramps ( with added benefits ) When mine finally wear out , you can bet I'll be calling these guys . They look a lot more secure too . Mods can move this if they want as I could not find a specific category for these .

Holy crap ! You wanna be MY dad ?

Kelly, very nice, thoughtfull and more important, usefull. Great idea. Glenn

Got my needle and thread out right now fixing sum tears in the seat I will post pics soon

Haha, wouldnt that have been nice! no that was mine. My dad got that for me for my first car. Im going to be trying to get it back on the road once it warms up.

They going to paint it all at once? Will there be unpainted surfaces mated to other unpainted surfaces? I see the beginning of rust at those areas..

Yes this is a RJ35 but, the steering set up is exactly the same as your RJ58...

The blade I have has the teeth to break up the hard pack and a rack area to weigh it down with cinder blocks. A WH cultivator is light and will just bounce on the ground

On my C-175, way back in the mid 90's I was STUPID enough to spray silicone on the throttle lever. S T U P I D ! I had to hold the lever up with a bungee cord for years until I used a needle nose vice grip to squeeze the rivets but it still loses some RPM to this day. It was just a little tight way back then.

Thanks to all you experts for the input. Hopefully I can work out a fair deal with the guy. Beside my little Lawn Ranger L-157, the only round hood I have is the 603 I picked up last summer so I have zero experience with any of the round hoods. I haven't done a thing to the 603 other than power wash it. Haven't even tried to start it yet. That will change today as I'm finally caught up with all my home and barn projects and can get back to playing, I mean working on the horses [emoji4] Sent from my tractor seat.

To follow up my plough conversion, here's the lift assembly needed. Firstly the beefy bar to run from the deck lift arm. Then two bushes for the rocker shaft Then a piece of 18mm bar for the shaft with the ends threaded to retain it. It all fits nicely with the fuel tank in place. And the view from above with the link bar in place. And with the plough fitted.

I saw this and watched the video several months ago. I did not buy one but for $299.00 and made in USA (Pennsylvania) the All Terrain Rake (ATR) looks pretty good. I think this is a pretty good buy for a product designed to do some of the things you are asking about. Looks like it would be an easy attachemetn to your Wheel Horse too! http://www.ratchetrake.com/

If all those lights and gadgets weren't on there you would have ripped that baby right out of the ground!

Sent from my tractor seat.

Revenge of the Onan Refurbisher Alliance.

Thought I'd post some 'before' and 'so far' pics of this British Mower here as well seeing this section is underutilised (main thread on MoM link), and on the basis that there may be some U.S. interest in this type of mower. I know there were several similar makes and designs in the U.S in the 50s like Toro and Jacobson. This one was so close to complete scrap, but I think I've got the better of it to date- As found- 24" cut for coarse grass like Paddock or Orchard (I thought it was for finer lawns originally ) Engine is pull start 2 cycle 98cc Villiers with Oil Bath Filter. Single Clutch Plate and power drive. Lot of work to date, but have reached this point of near completion. Was hoping to finish by winter, but have failed in that plan. If interested in the rebuild etc, here is a link - http://myoldmachine.com/topic/726-yellow-mower-challenge/ Regards.

Next, I'm going to upgrade that to "expert status!" :-P

Well here is the update. First, I bought a volt meter, yah me!. Second, cleaned all the connections and made sure everything was tight. Third, did all the testing, engine off, running etc. all the correct voltage. So, came to the conclusion that the connections were bad or dirty. At the least, or best whichever way you want to look at it, I need a new battery in the near future. I knew I would get all the help and answers here. Thanks all.!!!!!!!

Download this D&A file. It is the same info on just your model. Your model number is always written with a dash 42-11B501 - the last 2 digits are numbers. 2=lawn tractor as opposed to garden tractor 11=engine hp B=Briggs & Stratton engine 5=5-speed transmission 01=parts list identifier The 9110 is the Julian build date - 110th day of 1989. Garry

Thanks Jeff, I have it tucked away next to my daughters 1277 waiting for the a nice spring cruise with them.

Hello and You can always use that one to mow with and get another to till and do other things with. That way you won't have to ever take the deck off...

I built a dash for all of my added controls. Here is where mine is located, I mounted mine low figuring heat rises to get the best use of thermodynamics.

Did they leave the Skylark in there too?

Awesomeness

Just waiting on one last part ... should be putting it back together next weekend. If I I can remember where it all goes! Took almost 30 days to get my order from jack`s small engine...

Drill out the pivot point on the throttle and replace with 1/4 inch bolt and lock nut. Problem fixed.

Growing up, a friend of my dad's would let use his wheel horse to till our garden every spring. I was hooked on wheel horse ever since. My father in law and I have a few acres on the water that I maintain. He bought a new cub cadet 7-8 years ago and I was never impressed with it. My neighbor had a wheel horse 310, and he knew I wanted one. He came over one day and asked if I would be interested in a non running 314-8 that had been setting under a tarp for several years. It had less than 300 hours on it and cleaned up nicely. I got a deck for it and now have a nice tractor to cut grass with. I have since bought a C160 that also turned out to be a great worker. It was supposed to be a restoration project-maybe I'll get around to it one of these days.

Looking forward to it this Spring, always a great Swap Meet!

Been thinking about the power steering the last few days and I think it will be a lot easier to do with all the loader and 3 point off. So i decided that I would put the panels back on and start installing the loader and finish all the plumbing for a test run. Then when all that stuff is off to be blasted and painted, I would work on the install the power steering with a lot more room to work. So I was feeling good this morning and I took a trip to TSC. I picked up some hoses, 2 fittings, oil, replenish my supply of grade 8 bolts and a belt for the pump. Boy there are always out of the belt I need 😡 so i found one that was all rubber coated that will work for now. There selection of stuff is always thin or not in stock. I guess I will have to get the rest of the fitting at the hydraulic shop. Back home i started to install the new belt, towers, support bars, loader arms and cylinders. Had to take the weight box off as i needed some more room. Boy this thing is going to be long!! [emoji15] I hope it fits in the shed? I got the pressure line fitted from the pump to the valve and the suction line in place. But the return to tank line was about 5" too long. Another thing to get done latter. Now to finish the dreaded hard lines. Been putting this off too long. The big issue was i started to make the lines with welded stainless line that I already had from a automotive project many years back. Its more then strong enough for this but after talking to a machine builder that uses these lines all the time, the flares will leak at the welds. I really didn't want to completely start over on these lines. But when I was at the hydraulic shop the other day to pick up some hoses and fittings for the 3 point, they told me they know make seals for jic fittings. So i picked up a bunch to see if it works. Finished up the hard lines Next will be finish hooking up the valve when I get the new fittings and making some new handles for the control valves. Filling the fluid and hooking up the bucket. [emoji3]

Chuck, check out this post. Chuck

Well I thought that now, if I run out of gas , I can't run to stable for more. So I stole the idea from SOI to use a float sensor in the tank & a idiot light to let me know its time to head back to the barn

Welcome to another installment of the continuing learning series provided by the great folks at SOI_University. In this installment, we will examine a single piece off a Raider 12 I acquired. First a little teaser..... Here is the part Let's do an autopsy on this piece and see why there are so many folks complaining about tractors not cranking properly. I am offering up the coveted limited edition "SOI Was Here" Decal to the person who can guess the highest number of issues with this simple ground strap assembly. This one has even the master shaking his head saying "Why did they even bother". So let me hear all the individual faults you can see and some of those you may only suspect are present on this lowly ground strap. All will be revealed later this weekend. I bet there is something very special under the electrical tape! But you will have to tune in later this weekend to find out. As always, any and all comments are welcome.

Well, now that I'm back from my beauty nap, let's put a fresh set of batteries in the camera and crank out a few more pictures to answer DMK's question. I'm heading down to the workshop right now and should be back after dinner to show what is under that darn tape. Ya'll behave yourselves until I get back. I promise you all there will be plenty more to learn as the post continues. I also appreciate the passion and commentary from all participants here. Try not to make a glass parking lot out of this post until I get back!

Mike, good point and the positive cable was just as bad electrically, but not as interesting to look at. Thanks for your contribution here.

littleredrider, thanks for chiming in the bluish section is actually wire insulation but a small hint - where is the blue insulation where it enters the ring terminal - now its black ! what's going on here in this 6 inch piece of innocent looking wire :wh:

Outstanding Paul, but keep going, you are on a roll. There is something to see under the electrical tape. Any guesses ?

The sending unit is just an on / off thermal switch - when it senses an overtemp condition, a lite on the dash gets it ground connection from the temp switch closing and the hydro temp light turns on - real simple. Take a look at the temp switch - sometimes they have an activation temperature stamped on them - you could place them in a pan of water with a thermometer and pull the sender out of the water at 50 degrees before the trip temp and ohm it out with a continuity meter. should be an open circuit - heat it back up to within 20 degrees of trip temp - measure it again - and so on until the sensor trips. compare the water temp to the published trip temperature and make an informed decision if the temp sensor is actually bad. I'm thinking the odds are the sensor will be the culprit and not the wiring or indicator lamp circuit.

Boatman, how simple are you going ? no safety switches ?? The indicator board is just that - an indicator - the tractor will run without the board in place. Not sure if this matters, but what year is the tractor ? Maybe we can get you going with a little well directed troubleshooting of the current wiring. :thumbs:

Wade, I would make those same voltage checks on your car - just to confirm the new meter you bought is actually working correctly ( I bet it is and I bet you are doing all this properly). 15+ volts DC is definitely overcharging and the fact that you saw 19 volts DC across the battery tells me your rectifier / regulator circuity is probably at fault (corroded connections or poor rectifier grounding to the engine). The AC voltage coming from the stator could be as high as 40 volts AC and that rectified (converted to DC) could easily be above 19 volts DC. That's where the REGULATOR part of the rectifier / regulator kicks in and chops the +19 DC down to approximately + 13 to +14 volts DC and tries to keep it there. Again, check your car battery - should be about 12 - 13 DC without the car running and probably +14 and slightly above when the engine running. If you care to check your stator output to get the experience - put your meter on AC volts and select a range that will read upwards of 40 volts AC. Place your meter leads across the two outer terminals on the regulator (probably 2 black or 2 white wires from the stator) and observe the meter. AC volts will vary with the engine speed but should be around 20 volts AC at idle and increasing to probably around 40 volts AC at full speed. FYI - when measuring AC - you do not need to be concerned which meter lead is placed on what terminal of the regulator. Meter lead orientation only matters on DC and when you are "ohming out" a diode. Its probably described well in the meter instruction manual. Get back to us and give an update :scratchead:

I had a similar issue - a few pics attached here can give you a few visual checks to make on the voltage regulator / rectifier assembly http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...t=0entry92850