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I wanted to stack my 854 ever since I restored it, so I did. Here are photos of this bad boy and some of the support bracket I made.

Don't worry about that HY-2 unit...there is nothing to rebuilding it if it leaks. I did a thread on that and Indy still has the new seals if you need them. Looks like a 702...I think that is the right deck for it also. That HY-2 unit is selling for over $100 at shows and it looks like all the parts are there. Yes, 500 is too much not running, but if engine is not froze up, I think $150 would be stealing it...$200 to $250 is a good price...I might go as high as $300 (just because I like the 702's), I have a 702 with HY-2 and it is a great starting and running horse. The original rear tires would look like narrow snow tires.

Hope to go look at this tractor next week. Can any of you round hood experts help me identify what it is and what it may be worth? These are the pictures he texted me. Here's what I know. It hasn't been run in 15 years. Was repainted by the current owner who has owned it for the last 16 years. Has sat inside for the last 15 years. Has rear wheel extenders and wrong rear tires. That's all I know. Sent from my tractor seat.

Happy Bithday Scott !!! Scott is not only a great guy but an expert PHOTO BOMBER!

What else does a retired guy hafta do with his time but make movies! We Got slammed w 18" last night Chucked this morn and probably will later this Eve. Nothing like more seat time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQKNiU3fOD4&list=UU7wuEBq4kYyHz0ytg3WDv2g

Out of my garage and into a work space where I don't park cars. It's got heat and air plus lots of light and lots of electrical outlets. Still needs paint, landscaping, entrance ramp and a whole lot inside.Here's a few photos.

Looks like a Shriners convention there Lane.

Who cares... just, get it home.

while I do not have a pickup, I do have some folding ramps. find a hill or curb to try to make the ramps less "ramp" like. don't ride the tractor, instead walk it up and cut the throttle after you get it up onto the bed. less chance of earning the coveted Red Square "Whoops!" helmet.

Happy Birthday Scott! Hope you have a great day! Craig, thats making my eyes hurt!!!!!

Yeah, bombs away! Happy birthday to you Scott.

I know that it has been awhile since I have returned any tools to Sears for replacement (most of my tools are either Mac or Snap-on) but the times that I did I didn't even have to show any proof of purchase. That type of guarantee has got to hurt a company. One can search for broken Craftsman tools at garage sales and flea markets get them for next to nothing and return them for a nice new one or some people feel free to totally abuse them their tools using them for things they aren't designed to do. I know one time when I was getting a ratchet replaced there was some guy returning a bunch of tools that you could tell were clearly abused. Screw drivers bent like pretzels and others ground down to nothing. He also had wrenches that were bent in half obviously done to get into a tight place. I can remember the salesman questioning him on all of these issues and this guy got real loud. He got all new tools and he didn't deserve them.

N3PUY brought up a subject that has probably happen to all of us one time or another. What do you do when your horse just quits? Now I am referring to winter operations. I am sure some of you, myself included don't just plow or blow your own driveways but do neighbors whether there right next to you or down the road a bit. There have been times I have been traveling to or from neighbors that are a 1/4 mile away or sometimes a bit farther and wondered what would I do if this thing would just quit. There has been times that I was out in the road with the blower down on a hydro and it quit. When your tractor is dressed up in winter gear you just don't push them with ease. I have rescued them with other tractors, 4x4 pickup, farm tractors, even a snowmobile. Just wondering how many of you have been stranded by breakdown far from home base and what you did to get it home or at least out of the way. No fun when you have a blade full of snow or a blower full and your horse just quits.

Met up with another Red Square Member -Tristan Wilson of Versailles, Kentucky today. We met in Scottsburg, Indiana at the Hampton Inn (about half way for each of us) to deliver a Wheel Horse 42 inch Snowplow and rear hitch attachment that he purchased from me. Great guy and he has a small engine repair shop in Versailles! I enjoyed the short, very cold visit (about 10 degrees) with Tristan and his friend James

Drill out the pivot point on the throttle and replace with 1/4 inch bolt and lock nut. Problem fixed.

Here is a picture of me and my buddy, JimD, trying to pull Horsefixer's horse onto the blacktop. This horse will not start when it is on grass. Picture was taken at the Big Show in 2010. Yes, somebody always has a camera.

Dave looks to be a 702 and yes it has the solid tank $500 is too much in a non-running condition Brian

In this extremely cold weather an old battery may not have all the cranking power you need. Gasoline might separate a little too -giving water in fuel a chance to be troublesome. I would change plug just to see it that might be issue also.

What is most embarrassing is when the horse dies and someone else has a camera to record the death - and you are on it! Here are three photos my uncle Don Redding (one of those green tractor collectors) took of me being pulled on my 1967 Lawn Ranger by my brother David with his 633 Wheel Horse at the Winamac, Indiana "Power from the Past Show" in 2013. I don't even recall what the issue was but I think it was gasoline related. When you haul these tractors around 100 miles or so they tend to shake loose a lot of the old stuff -me included!

This has the makings of a great thread... My avatar is my 314h with a busted drive belt. It snapped 20' or so outside of my garage. I tried to push or pull it back inside. Quickly found myself getting nowhere. The nearest parts store is 30-40 miles away. Used a piece of 3/8" triple braid rope and weaved a belt. It wasn't pretty but did the job. It ended up snapping just inside the garage after climbing the up the 3-4" high step Since then I've hung a spare belt on the wall. I also keep carb kits and spark plugs on hand. Cheap insurance for those rare "O-sh**" moments.

I have a rusted one if u need it. = not pretty to look at but it will fit. Gary B...

that's what cemented my bad attitude toward "lifetime warranties" - how simple it is for the seller to give you a new one. Not a bad deal if you are returning a screwdriver, but what about an auto starter or alternator? 3 years ago, I replaced a funky OEM starter in my wife's car. Within 6 months I had to return the "lifetime warrantied" reman'd replacement due to poor cranking. Pain in the rear to get out and back in but of course it was "free". Within another few months the first replacement starter began to squeal and I ended up replacing another reman'd replacement for "free". Thankfully, this one is still working 2 years later. The point is even tho the starter replacements were "free", my time isn't and I lost a few nice fishing days to putting "free" parts in my car 3 times over. Same with wrenches, etc. That trip to HF isn't "free" when you swapout your "free" replacement wrenches. In fact, when gas was more expensive and an F350 was the only vehicle around to use - well - I don't want to be reminded how much it cost me to get "free" replacements.

No body does it like you Duke! I enjoyed it all, tractor video and the tunes! Hey, come June are we gonna see a pony tail?

except for harbor freight... you know you are buying cheap junk, you break cheap junk, you take it back and get free junk... It will take a long time for that to change...

Well, I finally got started on my project tractor (I have a name picked out but for now we'll just call it CLASSIFIED). I started with a L-155 lawn ranger frame and an 8 speed rear end. The transaxle was split, cleaned, I replaced one outer axle bearing and have new seals that will get installed before final assembly. Because this tractor is being fabricated with parts I had laying around, I thought It best to blast and prime parts before assembly, to keep things clean, then I will tear down, paint and reassemble. So here it is the start: I then took a hood stand/tunnel from a 1257 and decided to modify it so I can install a toolbox , Here is where the cutting begins of course I needed to shorten it Then to make the profile meet the toolbox Then I took the triangle pieces I cut off of the tunnel and welded them into the inside so I can achieve a factory look. and added the tab across the back of the tower so I can tie the tool box to the tower . of course I modified a stock gas tank dash to mount on top of the tower but I forgot to take pictures of that process so I will just take pics of It mounted when I am update my post. I have done some blasting of other parts to get things ready for the next stage, I will be working on the steering setup, I need to shorten a long frame fan gear to fit this short frame. along with moving the steering block back a couple inches. as you can see in the pictures I have moved the tower back further than the stock location, this of course will be to shoe-horn in a 14hp kohler that I will rebuild. I will be using a c- series axle, but I am on the hunt for a swept axle, unfortunately all are expensive, and I am wanting one cheap.

There I was ... plowing the first real snow of the season ... ¼ mile from home at the in-laws and the faithful C125 just laid down and quit with a bladeful of fluffy white snow. The ol' mule hasn't done anything like that in over 15 years. Aw... come-on girl ... back to work. Turned the key .... adjusted the choke and throttle levers ... nope ... not gonna go. I got off and checked the fuel ... even though I knew it was reciently filled ... and it was nearly full. I got back on and tried to coax her back to life ... no way. This is gonna be a long push home ... and it's all up hill. Well, how about a look under the hood? So I stand up and flip up the hood. Woah! The spark plug wire is off of the spark plug! The cap is missing off of the spark plug though. Oh ... it's not missing .... it's in the wire terminal. How's that possible? It screwed off of the plug while captured by the wire terminal. Well, it won't press back on like that ... has to be screwed on. So I took the wire out of the coil, screwed the "wire" onto the plug, reinserted the wire back into the coil. Closed the hood. Turned the key. And we were ready to ride again. How often does that happen? Never ever happened to me before!

Go here and download the "IPL #A7136" file which shows all the parts. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/download/1880-tractor-1958-1959-rj-58-rj-59-da-om-iplpdf/ It will also show you the correct place for each part. looks like you have the tie rod #12) and the steering block (#67) on upside down. The steering link (#78) is hitting the frame Did you ever straighten the tie rod (#12) if it's bent, that will cause the alignment issue. I can't believe you posted a pic of muddy tires

I make all my own gaskets. I rub a thin coat of grease on the part I want to make the gasket for and use it like a stamp on the gasket meterial. Just try to get the gasket the same thickness. A set of hole punches work great for this.

I know I'm jumping in long after the fact, but just wanted to say thanks for sharing this amazing rebuild. You do excellent work Martin! This is exactly the kind of motivation I've needed to get moving!

With all those electronics i see a fusion generator coming in the not to distant future. tlme to contact dr. emmit brown!Great video & music

I really love the Snow Chucker Duke. Like the video too, thanks for sharing.

I was running the blower on Marvin The C-145 I had last year. doing my neighbor's driveway. I backed up and then started going forward and all of a sudden it just started spinning and things felt kind of strange. The back wheels were off the ground! Turned out the lift bar for the mower deck had come loose from the chain and had wedged into the ground. I was about 100 yds. from my garage and had to drag my 2 ton floor jack through the snow to get the bar out of the ground.

Never had a tip vibrate off before, but I suppose anything can happen. Guess I'll have to be carrying a drywall screw in my pocket along with my lucky rabbits foot from now on.

i got back home at 11:30 we had a tail wind all the way burned 1/4 tank of gas going and 1/8 on the way back lol plow is installed but im goin to put it on my 314 it puts so much weight on the front end its all i can do is to turn the wheel

Brass Monkey..... It is often stated that the phrase originated from the use of a brass tray, called a "monkey", to hold cannonballs on warships in the 16th to 18th centuries. Supposedly, in very cold temperatures the "monkey" would contract, causing the balls to fall off. That seems a little cleaner.

Awesome video!!

Congratulations are in order to Brandon. If you've noticed his absence on the forum, on December 26th, he and his wife became the parents of a new little baby boy. According to Brandon, everyone is doing well and pictures will follow. Congratulations Brandon! I'm sure your not getting many of these

I put fenders on mine, I think they came off a 702. Now that my kids have out grown the sulky and you'd never catch my wife on one I turned mine into a wood hauler...

I've built a couple of sulky's the last few years. Get a bunch of left overs and start fabbin! Here's one I made out of a C-160 frame

The indicator pointer rides on a suspension much like the needle of a compass. If the suspension points become corroded, and the meter slams either to the left or right, it can mechanically stick on that position. You may want to take the gauge out of the tractor and tap it on its side to attempt to free up the movement. Ultimately, the gauge should be replaced. Most voltmeter gauges have a very limited range of movement of the pointer. Some will have a 90 degree movement and more expensive ones - a 270 degree movement. None will "sweep completely around" as you say. Air core movement gauges used in avionics will "sweep all the way around", in fact the 520 tachometer is an air core gauge capable of placing the pointer anywhere in a 360 degree arc. I have never seen a voltmeter capable of doing so.

and stay away from lead free solder. seems contrary to lead health warnings but lead free solders are an absolute pain to desolder and require more intense heat to solder components onto a board - leading to possible damage to the board or components. Kester 44 is the long time standard for rosin core solders http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R4.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xkester+&_nkw=kester+44&_sacat=0

Just a two wheel cart? Practice. Four Wheeled Wagon? LOTS of Practice.

and the best part is the piece is rust free down to the MOLECULAR level - not just as good as you can get it with a wire brush or a grinder. The rust has been neutralized. Primer it as soon as possible.

Rolf, I understand your concern. Feel free to chime in with your opinion on melting lead, reckless tractor destruction, and bypassing safety switches. I must have overlooked your posts when those safety issues were raised. To paraphrase an old saying "All it takes for Evil (or often time Stupidity) to succeed is for good men to stand by and do (or say) nothing". That's my story and I'm sticking to it. "facetious" (fuh-SEE-shus) adjective Jocular or humorous, often inappropriately.

Hydrogen embrittlement is the effect your referring to. when free hygrogen gas is near high strength steel AT HIGH TEMPERATURES - the hydrogen can get absorbed into the pockets of the metal and cause a pressure that flakes off metal. I have heard of this happening at welding temperatures but I'm not sure its a concern at the 100 degree F temps encountered in a homemade E tank. Maybe someone else has some real world experience with this issue. I also thought I read where the absorbed hydrogen gets released from the metal over time when exposure to the hydrogen stops.

I do know these exist but I have never used one, unless you count the silver paint I used to repair the defroster grid on my car. Now that you mention it - I think I may still have some of that conductive "paint" out in the garage. Plus, at almost $50 for the pen, I'll give the stained glass copper a try first. Some of the repairs - like the one shown to fix the indicator lamp post - needs mechanical backup to secure the actual post. The solder pen would not provide enough support for the post to secure it to the pc board - so I used the wire. Here is a good link to describe the edge connector repair process. http://solder.net/PCB/Edge_Connector_Repair_Instructions.pdf :scratchead:

Paul, thanks for the update. There appears to be a bare spot on the indicator board which probably supports a circuit for flashing the OIL PRESSURE light on your tractor. Seems like they should have added a loud beeper to this function ( like a backup beeper on trucks) so that you would not have a chance to miss the flashing lite if you drop oil pressure while mowing.