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I was recently sent this ad from a fellow euro member Simon Cole (Landsurveyor) . It is from a small holder magazine announcing the introduction of the new RJ58/59 to the UK market. The article is also dated 1959 & shows some nice photographs

just got this to replace my gt 1142. the gt has served me very very well for the last two years but i wanted to upgrade. so ive been looking for awhile and came across this one only about 20 minutes away! so i went ahead and got her. now it didnt come with any attachments but i am going to use the deck off the gt. also, i put my plow, chains and weights on it for this winter. i think it will do very well and hopefully earn its keep. now my future plans are to get new front tires for it, a 48 inch mower deck and maybe some paint and new seat. ive already fallen in love with this thing. just hope it can be as good if not better than the gt. anybody that has a mower deck for sale, please let me know. id like to find one soon so i can have it all ready for this spring. let me now what ya'll think!

Here's a few goodies. An early 60's seat cover. Mirror. And a copper and sterling silver keychain Mrs Funengineer made for me. Sent from my tractor seat.

Interestingly, my first thought was roll-over, or a busted frame. I had taken a quick look earlier in the week to see if the plate was cracked, and never even noticed the missing bolts. However, in my defense, the entire area was so packed with oil and grass clippings that it was a bit difficult to see. I noticed the shiny heads on the lower bolts, but didn't even think about the fact that they were undersized. So, I now surmise that the bolts vibrated lose. I've never seen that before. The upper bolts stayed in, but the lower bolts came completely out. In his haste to make a temporary repair, the previous owner attempted to replace the lowers, but now that the shifting of the plate caused the upper holes to become egg-shaped, the lower holes didn't line up and 1/4" was the only size that would fit into the holes. Since the lower bolts screw into a flange on the transmission case, a long bolt could be put through the plate and flange, then a nut put on the back. After some more time passed, the uppers worked completely out, leaving the situation that I discovered. I had to replace the drive belt due to a large chunk being missing, and the alignment looks fine. As soon as I get another chance to work on it, I am going to replace the cam plate and cam, then work my way forward to the motion control lever, tightening or replacing until I have smooth motion.

If you're bored this winter it would be a good short term project to turn your shop into a shop, if you haven't already. If anyone here has turned something into equipment I'd love to see it. The big grinder no has a little brother. This one had quit and we wanted an 8" so we got one of those. Seems all that was wrong with the 6" one was the switch so we ordered another one for it and got it going again. We'll use the 8 for grinding and the 6 for cleaning. Of course they had to match... Here is big brother in case you didn't see it in the other thread -

Thanks Jerry Funny you should bring this up, I was looking at the front of the hood the other day and thought it looked a bit upright and not as mean as I had in mind! Looking at this photo there is enough space between the front of the hood and the engine frame to "lean" the front of the hood inwards at the bottom... You have certainly given me something to think about Duels anyone? Maybe not... A bit too much Progress has been made although it's hard to tell from the next photo.. The axle has been put back together, diff and half shafts installed.. The axle can now be unbolted from the chassis, and the axle mounting place on the chassis has had some reinforcing.. I really need to take some photos! One thing I always pride myself on is doing everything "In house" or even "In workshop", partly because it's nice to be able to say "I made that", and partly because I'd rather spend time making something than part with money So with that in mind yesterday I finally came up with an accurate, safe and strong way I could convert a Wh rear wheel with it's 5 bolt 4 1/2" PCD.. To fit the Reliant's 4 bolt 4" PCD I found this nice length of thick plate hiding on the bottom of a shelf in Nigel's "Handy scrap metal" store.. (Thanks Nigel ) which is enough to make 2 wheel centers from. Let the lathe work start The bad news is this steel is rather hard so it's going to take quite a while to turn each wheel center!

I just ran across this video on youtube and had never seen or heard of this cooking method before and wondered if any of you grillers and party barbeque cooks have ever tried this, Looks pretty interesting and well, different, but it worked. Just curious if anyone here has tried and what you think about it.

For many, the time to winterize has long past. I let the time slip by and am only now getting around to doing it now. I would like to see how many different ways our member do this each year and what products if any they use.

Getting the '90 520-8 up 'n runnin' was and is a joy. Heard some poor stuff 'bout the Onan but, all is fine now. Every time I took the Stallion out to work 'n play, my heart skipped, beat fast, and my anxiety grew to unbelievable levels. Hurt. Too bad I had to ride the Horse with my eyes open. Geeze was I T'd off! I fixed the poor Stallion with Mr. Pettit's wonderful expert assistance. Was like heavens opened and the sun shined on the old '90 520-8, a new life! Glen's medicine is better for me and like a seasoned vet the Horse can now breathe relief while crusin' the property. Thanks Mr. Pettit! I'm goin' to look around your Horse Pharmacy!

I just received my new wheel horse sign from brad (876wheelhorse) in the mail today. I love it it looks good here but the woman don't think so Thanks brad roughly $70 shipped to my door .

thats the only thing I hate about those lights some angles it looks really pink. I actually got with a member here on redsquare and he tore a sign apart and put led lights in it. looks alot better. but price went up alittle and well worth it.

And a special beverage cooler. Sent from my tractor seat.

An interesting concept. Different twist on the norm. Glenn

I'd like to have it just the way it is.

Posted Today, 02:42 PM If you've seen a tractor ad in the past few years, this Kubota ad does a great job of lampooning the typical tractor commercials you're used to seeing. Definitely thought it was pretty funny and well done: Taken from a post on GTTalk: Lots of other Tractor commercials to view there on YouTube

Depends ......I keep up on maintenance on most things I own. Every small engine I own gets seafoam year round. It helps believe me. Ive found in most cases I can put machines away with an extra dose of seafoam in them and be fine come spring. Oil changes are done per hours on my clock so I don't make that a "spring thing". I keep everything lubed from the get go on anything I buy that hasn't been or anything new. A can of spray grease can be your friend. I also will remove in some cases bolt and nuts and neverseize them and reinstall. All new hardware I put on a machine gets that same treatment. Doing this stuff regularly throughout the year makes it easy as rolling it into the shop for the winter. Oil changes, plugs, etc I do based on engine run time. Some I only run a few times a year. Why put a new plug it in every year? So I go by manufacture hour time if its available.

Job well done, your inspiring me to put my new decals on to. Glenn

Geno before I forget, I used the Krylon paint plus primer you suggested for the satin black and it didn't react with the Ace Hardware red. Covered in 2 coats, good stuff . Epoxied the new pto disc in place and reinstalled everything. Put the decals on the hood and fender pan and that pretty well wraps it up for this winter. The rest of the decals will go on next year when I tear the upper dash out to repair a stress crack, reinforce the upper steering shaft bushing and take care of the rest of the detail work. Got to get back on the Suburban so this one is done for now.

I did look at every manual in the files, but I was looking for a complete soft cab like mine. Would've never guessed it was that old or made for the GT 14. I'm going to put it back on the C 160 and do whatever it takes to firm up the frame so the doors work right. No need for it on the GT 14's since one's a gardener/mower, and the other one's got the big plow on it. No kids that'd enjoy using the snow thrower without a cab . . . and I don't have enough kid in me to use a snow thrower without a cab . . . unless the wind is 0 mph. Thanks for the help.

WTG Bob ...Nice buck. Was he by himself ? I had a herd of 18 doe and fawns cross the road in front of me today. Not a buck in the bunch. After they crossed and piled up trying to get through this 5 wire fence, I remembered my camera. I just called Grandson Owen and told him to be ready at 6AM tomorrow for his last day to take a buck.

Operators Manual and Parts List:

Personally, I would rather buy something un-restored unless I know the person that restored it. Not saying you would be a bad restorer, just that I as the buyer would not know. Not everyone fees this way though!

looks like the inlet needle seat Brian

Here's a cool 1930's Ford Doodlebug tractor that I am getting this Sunday! It has a lot of potential for sure. I won't change it a lot but just try to get it operational. I was going to buy this before I got sick earlier in the year but couldn't go get it afterwards. Now that I am getting back to normal I called the old timer to see if he still had it. He said he still has it and was wondering if I still wanted it. We made the deal for the 2nd time and now I can go get it asap! It looks to be a 1930's Ford Model TT 1 and a 1/2 ton truck frame, motor and 4 speed trans. Should be a cool project. Check out the cool distributor among other cool stuff! The owner has a set of front tires, metal seat and a steering wheel too. He also has a rear end for it too but wants another $100 for it. I told him I didn't want the rearend.

Summer-grade fuel has a different RVP (Reid Vapor Pressure) than winter-grade, it keeps the EPA happy... It costs more also and is part of the reason prices rise around Memorial Day when they switch. Gasoline must have an RVP below 14.7 PSI (pounds per square inch), which is normal atmospheric pressure; if a fuel's RVP were greater than 14.7 PSI, excess pressure would build up in the gas tank, and the fuel could boil and evaporate. Depending on the part of the country, the EPA's standards mandate an RVP below 9.0 PSI or 7.8 PSI for summer-grade fuel. Some local regulations call for stricter standards. Because of these varying RVP standards, up to 20 different types of boutique fuel blends are sold throughout the U.S. during the summer [source: Slate]. Because RVP standards are higher during the winter, winter-grade fuel uses more butane, with its high RVP of 52 PSI, as an additive. Butane is inexpensive and plentiful, contributing to lower prices. Summer-grade fuel might still use butane, but in lower quantities -- around 2 percent of a blend [source: The Oil Drum]. Does your head hurt yet?

I think it's going to be a good tractor too John. When I first started the engine I had a banging noise that sounded a lot like a rod. However, I was most pleased when that sound went away after replacing the drive belt. A one inch chuck was missing and causing the noise. The engine sounds great, but I'm still going to pull the heads to check for valve problems. Monday morning I plan to sort out the motion control linkage and go from there.

WOW looking very nice it sure turned out nice !!

It helps to save old parts.My snow blower is a 36 inch auger and by adding a extra wing I now cut 46 inches wide. I had the extra parts off a junk blower. With a 1200 foot drive way it has worked great even in deep snow. Its mounted on a 520 H so it has the power behind it.

Yes, Hort was also involved and Cohort is wanted for questioning.

That's getting pretty serious there.

Deck off, clean, paint, grease, new belt. Engine oil change, trans fluid change, air cleaner, fuel filter, gas tank full. I run the tractor(s) a little each week or two. Snow blades on, wheel weights, check chains. Chains 'n binders ready if needed. Check drive belt, keep one in stock always, belt dressing. Clean up includes wax (a little) and tire foam. Grandsons polish the hub caps.

I don't do anything, never have. Dad takes the battery off of his and puts it somewhere warm, but that's it for him.

I just want to take a lap on her around the infield at the big show brian

I guesss we will be losing some fans on next years thread since we already talked about picking up some SEC games and many said they would leave the thread if SEC was added! Well, I guess they will be leaving! Maybe for next year we should call this thread S1G! Rob

K series or a Mag you can't go wrong. I have a 414-8 and its older version from the late 70's a C-141. Ones a Mag the others K both strong tractors. You got a good one there. Should serve you well and handle just about anything you can throw at it.

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We had about 6 inches with the Thanksgiving Nor'easter here. The crack meteorologists at the WeatherUnderground.org, The Ntaional Weather Service, NOAA, WNEP, WBRE, WPSU, Accuweather and everyone else including old ladies with an arthritic weather predicting big toe stated we would get 1 to 3 inches then a dusting to an inch last night. Well now............ I plowed 4 inches off the driveway before I went to work on Thursday morning and when I came home from work i took another 5 inches off of it at 9PM Thursday night! Then drove through an inch on it this morning! Heavy, wet and slippery! Nice pics!

Only drove it around the parking lot but yes, it was very comfortable. Adjustable seat and tilt wheel. I will say, the power steering is nice! Very smooth. Idle is set a little high but I am going to change fuel filter/air filter/engine oil next week and then see if I can adjust it down a notch. From what I have read this seems to be the same Daihatsu that is in the Simplicity as a 24hp. Maybe just a injector pump tweak? We'll see. If that is all it is I may have to adjust it. If there is more to it I am not doing anything. I want to keep the reliability where it belongs. Oh, and speaking of Simplicity, I have a Simplicity and am on the Simplicity user forum as well. I know I am repeating myself but this forum is by far the best out of any user forum I have seen or been a member of. Don't get me wrong, there are great guys on that site, too but the way this site is set up and how everything just flows. Hands down #1.

The Mrs gave me an early gift today...I thought it was pretty cool! She's the greatest!!! :-P

Dang, John..I am just outside of Bel Air, MD and gas is 2.59/gal and diesel is 2.99/gal...lucky to have it go down but they are still making billions off of us each year...scumbags! I feel sorry for people who are self-employed and have to drive diesel trucks/equipment all day...It's really hard on the operator-owned guys.

The disc pictured would be a nice one to restore, the newer models not so much. I agree with bmsgaffer, sell it as is.

Love my 1045 picked this up at the "Big Show" last year

Assuming you have checked everything above: Definitely check the hydro filter. DO NOT use an engine oil filter. Heat the trans/pump for a long time (several hours) with a good electric disc heater (no flame) or magnetic block heater. 20 or 30 weight oil at 24 degrees F does not like to move in a hurry. Your pump/hydro assembly has cavities and journals that are much smaller than your typical engine- And one of the reasons it makes tremendous pressure. You need to get that stuff good and warm before it will really flow everywhere it needs to be. Keep the rear wheels just off the ground like before. Work your pump back and forth and work the lift up and down. Any time you bleed air from a hydro system you want to keep those tires off the ground to prevent any additional/premature wear. You won't hurt the system by moving the components (with air still in the lines) as long as you are free-wheeling and there is no load on the machine/tires. Again, assuming you have checked all else from previous posts (clogged suction line, etc) I would say the filter and cold fluid could be the culprit. Not trying to insult you but once you get it figured out and back up to speed make sure you always let that machine warm up, especially so on those frigid days. You would be amazed at how many people and "professionals" take off at full speed before their starter seems to even wind down. If it's hydro it needs to be warm if you want it to last a lifetime. If you bought your new pump from a known member of this site I am fairly certain it is a good working model as they said. The majority of this group are here to help and only want to see you get moving again. Best of luck and please keep posting updates.

Thanks Nick, the skills you can learn but imagination is down to you.. Just look around for inspiration, there are plenty of wonderful machine's here at RS to get the brain cells going The latest Why Not video for you all..

Well chaps, no going back now To stick the axles back together, I starting with a bit of notching.. Like so.. Not quite the perfect fit but better to notch out not enough material than take out too much at this stage.. Using one of the old fashioned thick cutting discs as a grinding disc I could remove a little metal at a time and keep it flat.. Until I had a perfect notch.. The overlap is 1 inch by the way.. That's a much better fit To make sure the welds had something to really bite into and fill up all the edges of the joins very deeply V'd. Time to start welding, but it wasn't me who did the welding!! As Nigel's boy Karl is a coded welder and he happened to be about today I asked him if he would be kind enough to weld my axles up for me.. And a grand job he made of it too.. Thanks Karl A finished pair of half shafts The plan was to shrink fit some sleeves over the join but as Karl knows what he is doing with a welder and the extra heat caused by shrink fitting then welding a sleeve could well weaken the shafts, the sleeves will be staying off..

20hp....Nice!

Thanks James Yesterday was the day the last bit of the original Wh chassis was removed.. The new chassis certainly looks cleaner without the old rails inside The front end is starting to take shape. The big box across the front will become the new front axle after it has had a change of shape, some strengthening and something added to give it a real Hot rod look Oh... And I found a spare plug yesterday

Everytime I restore a tractor I say this is the last time because of all the work, but as you can see here we go again!!! a Hawkins WILDCAT in progress..to be continued...

Ian , I thought it only right to show our American audience a pic of you standing by your doner car from which your axle Came from, as I am not sure that they would be familiar with our highly prestigious reliant three wheel limo