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I picked up a plow that I found on CL last July. We shall see how well the TSC Majic spray bomb paint holds up. Before After Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everytime I restore a tractor I say this is the last time because of all the work, but as you can see here we go again!!! a Hawkins WILDCAT in progress..to be continued...

As a last resort, can you make split rims from your chrome wheels. I cut a pair apart so I could mount solid 4X16 tires.

Here is my 314, my Son's pedal tractor and RJ's. Thanks, Darren

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Got it at my house yesterday. Here are some pictures. Hobbs meter only shows 269.

Some of the 16 Auto,,,, http:// http:// http://

Alright, this separates the men from the boys, if you know what this is your a real top gun of the hobby.

You're correct Jason! They made only 3. Far as I remember 1 was destroyed, another was on Ebay a few years ago and the seller wanted $20,000. Third one is in a museum.

I BOUGHT THIS TONIGHT FOR $100 AND 2 MILES FROM MY HOUSE. 16HP KOHLER AND IT GOT REPLACEMENT SHORTBLOCK IN 1993. NO MOWER DECK AND BAD PAINT. STARTS RIGHT UP AND RUNS GOOD,NICE SEAT, REAR AXLE PLOW/TILLER ATTACHMENT AND FRONT MULE. THIS TRACTOR WILL BE SOLD ONCE I TAKE WHAT I NEED. JUST ANOTHER PROJECT. BOWTIE IN CENTRAL OHIO

Both of the 520h I've had have been broken off. I removed the hose from the air cleaner assembly and put a small hose cap on the barb.

Never knew that. I should actually look at the gear oil I have used in my 8 Speeds. As I wrote above, I don't change mine often. Only if I notice any discoloring. Now I just picked up a 50 dollar 310-8 circa mid 80's with a K series motor today. I pulled the rear dipstick and sniffed it. I think I may have found where they put Jimmy Hoffa's remains! I'll be changing this oil real soon!

getting closer

I got the handlebars and wheels painted then sent the wheels to "Rideable Bicycle Replicas" in California to have the solid tires installed. These tires are cut to length, the rubber has a hole in it that a wire is inserted into. It's then installed, the rubber is pulled back and the wire is either twisted tight or pulled tight and brazed to hold the tire on. It took a lot of searching to find someone to do this, I'm glad I had this done by someone that knows what he's doing rather than try it myself.

Some winter pictures to consider fella's.

A couple of these never hurts...

I found these needle bearings at my local parts store they look like they have a seal made into them I'm going to use in place of the B-1212 needle bearing Car quest sce-1211

Bob, Back in 1975 when I got out of x-ray school I worked midnights at St. E's in GC for a couple years as an x-ray tech. Then I worked as a tech at the hospitals in Belleville til the late 80's. That's why all my friends call me DOC. I moved away from the area in 1988 and have sold X-ray equipment for the past 25+ years. Cancer is not a death sentence today by any means. Treatments have greatly improved and its not unheard of to live many good years after diagnosis. My best advice is go with your gut, if you don't like what you hear, by all means get a second opinion. I do know one of the best treatments is a strong positive attitude. Like anything in life you will have good days and bad days. Fortunately with treatment regimes now days the good will out way the bad. Above all you have to keep an attitude of you can and will kick this thing. Keep the faith and may God bless you and yours!!! STAY POSITIVE!!!

As seen here, opposite Dave's "Wildfire"... which were both featured in Wild Bill's first annual, 2014 Crackle fest.

It's rusty but the deck aside from surface rust is solid as a rock and the blades are newer. Motor has compression. PM said it wouldn't start so it sat for over a year. Muffler is surface rusted but still solid. (Bet it's a maraca inside) The tranny has some water in it. Emulsified gear oil smells like crap!. Axle seal leak also. The steering is really tight from sitting. Barely turns! Tires hold air, rubber is great but as usual, there is some weather checking. I have a drop-in K301 for this if the 10 horse needs a rebuild. Can't make out anything on the ID label. Either way, it's a 1985 or 1986 since it has the K241 in it. I even found out it was owned for many years by one of my childhood friends. It was going to be taken to the scrapper if I didn't get it and we can't have any of that! I have my over-winter project!

As promised in my introduction thread i've made some pics of the newly bought 42" deck and mule drive. So I thought it be best to post them in a new topic so i can post my future updates in the right place. Busy mowing Apparently there's a "rod" that holds the mule drive in place and makes sure that you actually can put tension the belt, well I didn't know that. So instead of ordering the rod from toro and having to wait for it (i hate waiting) i thought id give it a go, making one myselve, nothing ventured nothing gained i believe is the proper saying. It came out like this (yup its the rusty bit) Thoughts and C&C much welcomed

Thanks for the advice all. I'll go get the genuine Toro part. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I got one from parts tree last year,for my c-141, The part # is 106945 for Gas Cap, Hope you can still get it from them.

Maybe the guy you where bidding against would have ran it up way past that if you kept going. Best to stop where you are comfortable. Sold at a great price though. Besides , its not better than a nice simple tall chute single stage and a 520H with cab you got sitting at home.

Naw that would be mean... The good ones get ambient temperature marshmallows, the bad ones get freshly 'toasted' marshmallows...

Thanks for all of the info on electrics. I had already ordered an OEM plastic mechanical pump for $39. But I sure wasn't going to pay Kohler $150 for one that was as bad as the last one I bought. If this $39 one doesn't last, I'm definitely going electric. I saw that one of the Facet pumps is recommended specifically for Kohler type engines where the fuel psi won't overpower the needle valve in the carb. This pump is for a 'barn find' 312-8 that I paid $50 for a year ago. So far, I've replaced the ignition coil and other wiring, replaced the carburetor, and now the pump. I repainted the rusty hood, cleaned the mouse nest out of the engine block, sanded and painted the engine tin, changed the fluids, installed a new battery, replaced all fuel lines, cleaned the tank, replaced fuel tank valve and filter, cleaned and painted other parts of the frame, etc. and there is still more to do. Sometimes a $50 tractor is only worth $50. But if I didn't have this to keep me busy, I'd probably be out drinking or gambling. I'll post 'before and after' pictures when I'm done (of the tractor, not the drinking and gambling). Thanks again, Jim

First, to and I would say yes to that. As you get further back in years the attachment was different, but somewhat stabilized in late 60's early 70's and continued on prob past 80's, unsure. Peruse through this manual for rhe various interchanges and upgrades to get an idea keeping in mind model numbers changed, but basic unit and attachment remain same: Then you can go in manuals and pick out individual models and compare by pictures and part numbers or attachment hardware.

Man you really have the addiction bad!

I have the Facet electric fuel pumps on 3 of my horses. They start better and run great. I won't be going back to the manual pumps anymore. Hope this helps.

Well guys I made my puller on lunch yesterday took about a half hour good news is it worked excellent and got both pulleys off no problem!! I was driving my now "non-smoking" 312-A around the yard about an hour after I got home....so glad it finally kicked the habit used 1/4" plate 4"x4". Drilled a 1/2 hole dead center and then .281 holes at 5/8 and 1 1/2 in four directions 90 degrees apart then connected those holes with a torch. Welded a 1/2-13 nut in the center and got some hardware. They still came off kind of tough so I couldn't imagine ever getting them off without this.

I wish they still sold new 36" and 32" gear drive rotary decks that would be worth sum green

I put one of these decks on my C161 after I restored the tractor. I figured that by the time I got a deck cleaned up enough to last a while I would be half way to a new one and the new one are built better any way. The new decks are one of the few things that were made stronger that the older versions. I guess that was Toro's contribution.

Yes! That is great! Instead of mulching, I could just blow all the leaves into my neighbors yard!

Finished it about midnight last night.

I need to get the will up to do stuff like that. Nice tractor ! But every time I get one , I get a plan for it and then it stays around because I can never get the nerve together to tear it apart. Instead , I end of fixing and stashing it away like a chipmunk storing nuts for the winter.

If you get a bottle, save up. I started with a small one, moved up to a 40 and now have an 80. Youll start welding everything you can get your hands on. Small bottle will disappear quicly. I had flux core at the beginning but when I got the gas setup, night and day difference. Sold my stick welder. Love my mig. I have the hobart handler 175 230 volt. Pawn shops are a good place to look also. Good luck.

I like the new shack!

I gotta stop looking at these threads ... Cause now I gotta add one of them there Super C's to my must have list ... That will be a beauty! Better gaurd it before Geno sneaks up.. He's been pretty quiet today, that usually means he's out Sniping ...

Wow, I swear I saw that tractor just yesterday . I got a 551 off of John yesterday, he is a good guy with some beautiful horses. Keep up the good work John.

Just let me know what you need pictures and measurements of.....I will do my best to provide the information you need....

Ok now it's safe. In order 59 RJ. 64 704, 76 C-160, 73 12 8spd

awesome Martin, thanks for filling those big shoes! here's a few pics of mine as i got it nearly finished Koen

He just posts his "new to the shed's" then turns around and sells them on CL or the forum. Just a flipper.

I don't see you improving horsepower enough to make much difference. The ability of the snow blower to throw snow is directly rated to the RPM of the impeller, which is dependent on the speed of the engine, which should turn at 3600 RPM. If the engine is at its proper speed, additional horsepower won't make a difference. At least that's my theory.

Let me get this straight. You tore down a completely good K-341. You are going to convert it to a Magnum style engine. You are thinking about decking the block but don't want to spend $200 for a cam grind. Frankly, and you said you wanted tips, even if it was "ugly", you are wasting your time and money. You had a perfectly good engine good for at least 20 years if taken care of and haven't got a clue about building an engine. Now you are asking for suggestuons? Next time you run across a K-341 in that kind of shape, PM me and let me get it away from you. You asked.

Seriously... how can I get into that class?

looking good. looks like you've got quite a lot of it worked on already...... that price on the wheels is reasonable for powder coating.

Here's a couple of photos after I cleaned the cylinder up a little bit. Reseated the valves with a little valve grinding compound and will check the clearances before I button it up. I used a trick I found on here for cleaning up the aluminum head, using the flattest surface I have, a table saw, and some wet sandpaper. It worked great! I forgot to take a photo of it though.