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What else? I say we divide up Geno's collection among those who show up...

Bingo...now that's how it works.

Geno I don't think you understood Craig - ride "your" horses.

Not to add more junk to the thread but I like a good debate. I think the problem is not arching as an issue but rather corrosion. Most wire in our cars and horses will be copper stranded. When copper stranded starts to corrode it insulates the copper strands from each other and cause resistance / heat. Having experience in outdoor railroading. I have buried miles of wire in ground with and without conduit. I have seen copper wire turn green almost two feet into the insulation from moisture wicking its way up the insulation. This reaction was from extreme weather and climate conditions and not having properly tinned leads and sealed connectors. Even then , moisture finds its way in under ground. That being said, most all of our horse will never see the extreme condition needed to be met to cause this type of failure in the wire. Our connections are not weather proof and moisture has plenty of ways to find its way into our wiring harness but I never see major issues. On the other hand. I dont like to splice wires but I believe the pin prick of this tool would cause no foul play or damage in most applications. Unless you want to bury the tractor in the dirt for a few years..... Seal it with some liquid tape and rest at peace at night if you wish. Looking at it from a cars angle. If the wire is a brake light or fuel sending unit wiring under the frame in wet areas , I might opt to replace the wire instead of splicing the damaged area. Moisture and salt can reak havoc. My trailor wiring never fails me but I can bet you will not find crimp on connectors in my wiring. All soldered and heat shrink. I hate fussing with trailor lights and see way to many people year after year fighting this issue. Under the hood or interior . Sure poke away with your tool but 99% of the time the wiring harness is hidden under wiring loom or taped up anyway which still has you tearing the harness apart in the first place and poking along till you find it. My opinion, replace or run new wire and save me the shop labor. Rendering the use of the tool you speak of useless. In my opinion, any time I wish I had that tool in my box was when I wanted to test readings off of , lets say, a throttle position sensor while it was still on the car to determine if it needed replacing or not. And the plug was sealed up nice and tight and there is no way to get my meter probes anywhere near wires. Just my opinion. I think this tool has applications and is worth having around. For a horse, you can usually sneak the probes of your meter behind any plug, or fuze needed. Also no miles of wire found on the wheel horses, I just replace if there is an issue most of the time. For a quick fix , out comes the Weller solder station and heat shrink. never fails me. Kyle

Got back late Sunday night from a PA ad Jersey haul. Got to meet and go to lunch with Trouty Bob and KM3H Nick, it was totally awesome. Sandra is enjoying the wine Bob. We picked up a 50" sickle and snowmobile that Bob got for us in PA. We picked up a 4 wheel wagon, 1971 Toro Professional 76" reel mower, an old air lift jack, among other things in Jersey from my Wheel Horse dealer friend. The reel mower alone weighed almost 1,800 lbs so we couldn't bring home much more. Oh well, we'll have to make more trips. On the way back we got to meet Desko, very smart and professional young man I'll tell you. I wish more people were as hard working and nice as he is. He had a Yanmar 30HP diesel engine we picked up, it purrs like a kitten. Don't know what we'll do with it yet but we'll find something for it. Sandra also scored a bunch of Longaberger baskets at a yard sale in Jersey for $47, and more wine from Bob. She is liking the hunt even more since she's starting to get all this wine from everybody. First pic is Bob, Nick and me loading the snowmobile.

Geno.... I'd imagine your one of very few snowmobile owners in KY.... and that's probably about the only Wheel Horse snowmobile there!..... you know they only made 9 models.... and you got those nice shelves now..... just saying....

That barn is looking great Steve. I'll chime in on the electric service. I'd go as big as you can afford. We always wish we had a bigger more powerful ... I have a 200 amp service to my house with attached three car garage. In my barn I installed a 100 amp service that is fed from my 200 amp house service. Most of my electrical needs are served at the house and attached garage. I have maxed out my 200 amp service at the house now. But I'm able to provide electric for a couple of 240 V electric heat panels in the attached garage shop, a 220, 50 amp welder and a 220, 40 amp air compressor. I have some space left in the barn for future needs but here's what I'm currently set up for out there. Another 220, 50 amp welder. 240, 20 amp electric baseboard heat. 240, 30 amp forced air heat for the paint booth. Three 20 amp plug circuits. One 20 amp door opener circuit. Two 15 amp light circuits. One 15 amp plug circuits. As you can see, you can use up space on a panel pretty fast. Take your time, you only want to put in a service line once.

Good points there. The one thing I can not do is use solder. Most manufacturers will not allow it as a viable repair. I learned this through many years of warranty work as I do a lot of electrical for dealers on vehicles still under factory warranty. The only thing they will allow is a shrinkable butt connector. The connectors even come with any exterior pigtails. The problem with running a new wire is if you have to go from the engine compartment to the interior it is incredibly more time consuming than picking select areas in the harness and opening it up to narrow down the problem. Another big thing here also is time is money, I do this for a living and cost factors in and we all know we have to keep the customer happy. The next problem is protection of the new wire, as well as the sealing of it if you can get it into the interior at all without making a hole in the car. Finally, this repair if done by my shop will be guaranteed for life, a big thing to factor in when doing the repair. I don't like doing something a second time for free and putting the customer out. I have a neat little tool I'll try to get some pics of today. Doesn't work in every scenario though. It's a device that you plug into a circuit that broadcasts a radio frequency into the circuit. It has a wireless handheld receiver with arrows that guides you right to the problem. I'm surprised that no one has mentioned it, but even most electronic experts have never even heard of it. Must be the OCD again.

You may be living in there at some point. This barn looks awesome, and so far have pulled out all the stops.

That's just great! Now Geno wants one and will have to make more room in his shop!

Its mostly marketing hype. There are no clearly defined differences between the models and some of them changed over the years. the 500 series was only available with twin cylinder onan engines from 16 - 20hp and generally have more gauges and doodads. (although the 516H and 518H had a lower spec Hydro rear end (Eaton 700) with a manual lift that people tend to shy away from) 400 series runs from 12-18 hp and the 8 speeds usually had the 1.125" axles with 8 pinion diffs (though that isnt even always true) All of the hydro versions had the Eaton 1100 that I am aware of. the 300 series runs from 8hp-12hp and generally had the smaller 1" axles and 4 pinion diff (again, not always true). They were more the barebones tractors. Some had the Eaton 700 some had the 1100 (usually differentiated by an A for the 700 and an H for the 1100). Almost all models 12hp+ were available in hydro or manual. Confused yet? ALL of these models have the same frame and bodywork (except the hoods. some had louvers, some did not, and the 520 was slightly different cutout for a "warning light pod" I think i got most of that right.

thanks, I want to stick it under the hood of the tractor to keep the squirrels from making a nest.

Piercing the wire will not cause a voltage drop.

I was cruising Craig's list today checking out my usual categories and came across this. Called the guy and he told me it was from the estate of the original owner who was an old rich guy who bought things and either never used them or barely used them. Everything is original including the paint. Heck looks like the original grease is still in place. Steve has been trying to get to get into the old boat and engines and for $100 including the stand I couldn't resist. I figured if I don't end up keeping it I could always sell it to Steve or Ken but in this condition I may just keep it. I'm sure Ken will tell me what I have and whats it worth.

No Gary, if I won the lottery I would buy an old abandoned Wal-Mart building for a horse barn.

Pics after clean up. I might start some more topics on these so I can put up more pics of each, they are in really nice shape.

Sure looks it to me Mike, heavy suckers. I've had them on quite a few cars backs in the day. I had a real nice black 79 Z-28 that had a built 327 Vette motor in it with headers and Cherry Bombs. When you got into it, WICKED LOUD. I can remember late one Friday night me and a buddy were doing donuts around a light pole in the Caldor parking lot for what seemed like 5 minutes with that 327 wide open most of the time. What can I say, It seemed like the right thing to do at the time. A Brookfield cop showed up and told me he heard this evil sound from well over a mile away and just followed the noise until he found me at the end of it. He told me that was enough for now and sent me on my way! And that is my Cherry Bomb fondest memory... By the way, cool tractor but unsupported that is a pretty heavy muffler...

We do need a few $ for the hobby though. Just got back from Indy, I've been out sneaking around again and didn't get caught!

A quick check of the starter relay can be accomplished as outlined below the engine should crank as long as the trigger terminal is jumped to the battery stud on the relay. Remove the jumper if the engine starts.

Here is one of my commando 8 I was trying to sell it and nobody was interested I had it for sale for 250$ and I didn't even get a call on it so I decided to keep it I've been working on the deck and cleaning it up

thank you km3h for the blunt honesty i needed to hear that, thats something my grandfather would have said too about the car showroom and things overpriced today lol...im working with ken now on his and see whats up, like i said i kinda know this guy pat selling it here in town but cant read him all that well, he might be trying to screw with me but when i see something in great shape and its a simple design sort of thing its like its gotta be mine for whatever reason, all of my equipment is kept up insanely well always waxed, greased, covered and gawked at when im not doing anything in the garage lmao.....and yes pacer you would think there would be more potential up here, maybe i should open my eyes to that idea as well

Is that a "Jewel Saver" on the one lift handle?

I remember reading once in a book about tractor history that there were tests done in the '30's by rubber tire companies proving that rubber tires were better than steel. Steel wheels tear up paved surfaces and don't have the flotation of rubber tires. Under certain conditions, flotation can greatly increase traction. My Grandfather had a '36 Farmall F-12 that has a set of steel wheels and also a set of rubber wheels. Since the rubber wheels were narrow and worn, the steel wheels usually worked better for plowing in sod which had a somewhat slick surface. The steel tines allowed the wheel to cut into the sod for better traction. However, this was the only circumstance where I remember that steel wheels were better than rubber. And boy, did they ride rough on gravel and pavement!

Hey guys I was fooling around We all it is the hobby not the $$ write!!!!! LOL.

I would say steel wheels are not superior to rubber/chains for traction. I have seen many of these steel wheel tractors stuck on flat land at tractor shows. Flat bars would just slip. Maybe if you had lugs bolted to a flat surface, might do better but would surely tear up the surface you are plowing on. Plus steel wheels make for the roughest ride in the world. Ask any of the Amish in my area! One good thing about steel is you can drive over a bed of nails and never have a flat tire! Kyle

The edge connector is Molex WMLX-213. I was able to get mine at Baynsville Electronic here in Baltimore County. The should be available on line. If you are talking about the connector that you push the wires in and they automatically make a connection, this is not the one. This one comes with the Moles pins. I have a large supply of pins so I did not need to purchase any extras but I recommend that you get some extra pins in case you ruin one. They are cheap. This is an extremely good topic as the step by step procedures you are following will be very helpful to the other members who may have these same problems.

james, i think when the manual stated engine overheated i think it means it allready overheated and now has the knock(doesn't mean the engine knocks when hot) Koen

Yeah you don't see many snowmobiles here and a Wheelhorse one would be my first....I have seen a few here but never a wheelhorse.

I'm confused Brandon.

Since it's already all black wonder what it would look like if you switched colors. Everything normally red would be black and paint the normal black hood part red?

It has started to notch out, but not move. Stuck right where it sits. Even my chisel has a notch where I am coming at the key. I tried again yesterday beating on it towards the housing until my arm couldn't take anymore. No avail. I am going to try heat. I also think I am going to drill down into the key to split it in half and try to dig out one side at a time. Hopefully one of these two methods works...

I think the FIRST thing Geno needs to do before he buys that Walmart (if he hits it big) is he needs a bigger trailer, that one is dinky considering the size of your hauls.. Just think, if you had a bigger trailer maybe you would make it into Wheel Horse rich CT before it got stuffed. Maybe Walmart will toss in a semi truck and 48, no better hope it's a 52 ft trailer... Brandon I was wondering that myself, are there even abandoned Walmarts out there? I think he'll need an abandoned air craft hangar or maybe a shopping mall myself!

I wish I had the talent but I am not computer friendly. But I am more than willing to get it printed up and distributed like always! Might want to pin this Karl!

And no one even commented on the fact that if Geno won the lottery ... with which he could build anything ... he would choose to buy an abandoned walmart.

I know one thing in this world to be true and everyone here has heard it many times. I should have built it bigger, etc, etc, etc. I think we're talking less than 100.00 more for peace of mind and the I can do whatever I want feeling. When I built mine in 97 I put in a 200 amp service thinking I can do whatever I want. At the time it was much more than I needed, especially with diesel for heat and no AC. The next year I needed some tax write offs so I dropped 2 - 5 ton rooftop units on it for heat and AC and I was happy that I was prepared.

Steve, you have no real idea what you will be doing in there five years down the road. If it were me I would go for the 200 Amp as it won't cost that much more now.

I really like the black. But it's eye of the beholder thing. Make it your own...and let her run! Horses like to work!

Got the hood put back on today, hopefully by the end of the week decals will be in..

Looks like a bottle of Skeeter Pee I see there?

That thing is awesome!

That is amazing! That stuff is just so cool. What a feat of engineering there!

We gonna need a video clip here... gotta hear it sing WFO.

Hey, I saw your post but thought it was maybe a tease........ In the many years I have been giving "long distance" advise, I'm embarrassed to say how many hours (mine and the owner's) were wasted on unproductive troubleshooting when false assumptions were made about the battery condition. Sulfated batteries will charge to 12.6 volts but nose dive below 9 volts when challenged by long term cranking demands. heeded your advice on jumping battery + to the coil +........ and cranked it by jumping the starter solenoid .......fired off after about try #3. tried it without the coil jumped and again ......jumping the solenoid it started after about try #3 again until the fuel poured in ran out ~ 5 sec max So, it seems I was getting spark [i swear I didn't see any] and the battery is good but it does nothing with the key turned to start and I've got a fuel issue Correct, soak the carb in cleaner and perform a rebuild if necessary. We can proceed on with the safety switch checks while the carb is soaking. The 417 wiring diagram doesn't seem to have the same wiring colors [and/or it's very hard to tell] so I went by location mostly ~ furthest being the seat safety switch, next furthest the park brake safety switch but I never did locate a PTO or Neutral safety switch or wiring PTO switches should be in the hoodstand and linked to the action of the PTO handle. Check up near the battery area. I do not have any experience with 417 neutral switches - someone else needs to chime in on this one. I imagine it is linked to the movement of the clutch pedal and is probably mounted in the area near the frame under the shifter plate. After asking Dad again today he said he just set the throttle, pulled the choke and turned the key and Varroom.............. so ?? So - are we fixed now? I'm not sure what you are asking.

Today we were able to get more of the decking on and hung the front gutter. Last pic shows me taking a little break and checking out the view...

You're secret is safe with me Bob... as long as you promise to never, ever...etc, etc.

I'm sorry Craig But really, aren't I'm allowed to slip up once in a while at my age? Please don't tell anybody I wrote that. I want to pretend it didn't happen.

Aw shucks just go to your local ace hardware and get plastic magnet !!

Hospital I work at is going bonkers. They dragged out an emergency management trailer that has been parked out back for 3 years and stuck it by the ER. They had a huge double door refrigerator freezer that was part of the emergency preparedness equipment. When we first got it, I had to take doors off of the building just to get it in. That bldg got torn down a year and a half ago. They put that fridge in storage at another site. It was seen a month ago. They went to get it today and it was gone! how does someone steal a giant refrigerator?

Lookin good Steve! C'mon guys, Steve has like 29 tractors, if a #2 is calling you just ride up on the nearest tractor. If ya don't feel like riding then B.Y.O.B.

she is a real beauty Charlie and she certainly will turn heads, but then so will the lawn ranger. did you have to remove steering wheel to get hood off ?