Leaderboard

What else? I say we divide up Geno's collection among those who show up...

Bingo...now that's how it works.

Geno I don't think you understood Craig - ride "your" horses.

Not to add more junk to the thread but I like a good debate. I think the problem is not arching as an issue but rather corrosion. Most wire in our cars and horses will be copper stranded. When copper stranded starts to corrode it insulates the copper strands from each other and cause resistance / heat. Having experience in outdoor railroading. I have buried miles of wire in ground with and without conduit. I have seen copper wire turn green almost two feet into the insulation from moisture wicking its way up the insulation. This reaction was from extreme weather and climate conditions and not having properly tinned leads and sealed connectors. Even then , moisture finds its way in under ground. That being said, most all of our horse will never see the extreme condition needed to be met to cause this type of failure in the wire. Our connections are not weather proof and moisture has plenty of ways to find its way into our wiring harness but I never see major issues. On the other hand. I dont like to splice wires but I believe the pin prick of this tool would cause no foul play or damage in most applications. Unless you want to bury the tractor in the dirt for a few years..... Seal it with some liquid tape and rest at peace at night if you wish. Looking at it from a cars angle. If the wire is a brake light or fuel sending unit wiring under the frame in wet areas , I might opt to replace the wire instead of splicing the damaged area. Moisture and salt can reak havoc. My trailor wiring never fails me but I can bet you will not find crimp on connectors in my wiring. All soldered and heat shrink. I hate fussing with trailor lights and see way to many people year after year fighting this issue. Under the hood or interior . Sure poke away with your tool but 99% of the time the wiring harness is hidden under wiring loom or taped up anyway which still has you tearing the harness apart in the first place and poking along till you find it. My opinion, replace or run new wire and save me the shop labor. Rendering the use of the tool you speak of useless. In my opinion, any time I wish I had that tool in my box was when I wanted to test readings off of , lets say, a throttle position sensor while it was still on the car to determine if it needed replacing or not. And the plug was sealed up nice and tight and there is no way to get my meter probes anywhere near wires. Just my opinion. I think this tool has applications and is worth having around. For a horse, you can usually sneak the probes of your meter behind any plug, or fuze needed. Also no miles of wire found on the wheel horses, I just replace if there is an issue most of the time. For a quick fix , out comes the Weller solder station and heat shrink. never fails me. Kyle

Got back late Sunday night from a PA ad Jersey haul. Got to meet and go to lunch with Trouty Bob and KM3H Nick, it was totally awesome. Sandra is enjoying the wine Bob. We picked up a 50" sickle and snowmobile that Bob got for us in PA. We picked up a 4 wheel wagon, 1971 Toro Professional 76" reel mower, an old air lift jack, among other things in Jersey from my Wheel Horse dealer friend. The reel mower alone weighed almost 1,800 lbs so we couldn't bring home much more. Oh well, we'll have to make more trips. On the way back we got to meet Desko, very smart and professional young man I'll tell you. I wish more people were as hard working and nice as he is. He had a Yanmar 30HP diesel engine we picked up, it purrs like a kitten. Don't know what we'll do with it yet but we'll find something for it. Sandra also scored a bunch of Longaberger baskets at a yard sale in Jersey for $47, and more wine from Bob. She is liking the hunt even more since she's starting to get all this wine from everybody. First pic is Bob, Nick and me loading the snowmobile.

Geno.... I'd imagine your one of very few snowmobile owners in KY.... and that's probably about the only Wheel Horse snowmobile there!..... you know they only made 9 models.... and you got those nice shelves now..... just saying....

That barn is looking great Steve. I'll chime in on the electric service. I'd go as big as you can afford. We always wish we had a bigger more powerful ... I have a 200 amp service to my house with attached three car garage. In my barn I installed a 100 amp service that is fed from my 200 amp house service. Most of my electrical needs are served at the house and attached garage. I have maxed out my 200 amp service at the house now. But I'm able to provide electric for a couple of 240 V electric heat panels in the attached garage shop, a 220, 50 amp welder and a 220, 40 amp air compressor. I have some space left in the barn for future needs but here's what I'm currently set up for out there. Another 220, 50 amp welder. 240, 20 amp electric baseboard heat. 240, 30 amp forced air heat for the paint booth. Three 20 amp plug circuits. One 20 amp door opener circuit. Two 15 amp light circuits. One 15 amp plug circuits. As you can see, you can use up space on a panel pretty fast. Take your time, you only want to put in a service line once.

Good points there. The one thing I can not do is use solder. Most manufacturers will not allow it as a viable repair. I learned this through many years of warranty work as I do a lot of electrical for dealers on vehicles still under factory warranty. The only thing they will allow is a shrinkable butt connector. The connectors even come with any exterior pigtails. The problem with running a new wire is if you have to go from the engine compartment to the interior it is incredibly more time consuming than picking select areas in the harness and opening it up to narrow down the problem. Another big thing here also is time is money, I do this for a living and cost factors in and we all know we have to keep the customer happy. The next problem is protection of the new wire, as well as the sealing of it if you can get it into the interior at all without making a hole in the car. Finally, this repair if done by my shop will be guaranteed for life, a big thing to factor in when doing the repair. I don't like doing something a second time for free and putting the customer out. I have a neat little tool I'll try to get some pics of today. Doesn't work in every scenario though. It's a device that you plug into a circuit that broadcasts a radio frequency into the circuit. It has a wireless handheld receiver with arrows that guides you right to the problem. I'm surprised that no one has mentioned it, but even most electronic experts have never even heard of it. Must be the OCD again.

You may be living in there at some point. This barn looks awesome, and so far have pulled out all the stops.

That's just great! Now Geno wants one and will have to make more room in his shop!

Its mostly marketing hype. There are no clearly defined differences between the models and some of them changed over the years. the 500 series was only available with twin cylinder onan engines from 16 - 20hp and generally have more gauges and doodads. (although the 516H and 518H had a lower spec Hydro rear end (Eaton 700) with a manual lift that people tend to shy away from) 400 series runs from 12-18 hp and the 8 speeds usually had the 1.125" axles with 8 pinion diffs (though that isnt even always true) All of the hydro versions had the Eaton 1100 that I am aware of. the 300 series runs from 8hp-12hp and generally had the smaller 1" axles and 4 pinion diff (again, not always true). They were more the barebones tractors. Some had the Eaton 700 some had the 1100 (usually differentiated by an A for the 700 and an H for the 1100). Almost all models 12hp+ were available in hydro or manual. Confused yet? ALL of these models have the same frame and bodywork (except the hoods. some had louvers, some did not, and the 520 was slightly different cutout for a "warning light pod" I think i got most of that right.

thanks, I want to stick it under the hood of the tractor to keep the squirrels from making a nest.

Piercing the wire will not cause a voltage drop.

I was cruising Craig's list today checking out my usual categories and came across this. Called the guy and he told me it was from the estate of the original owner who was an old rich guy who bought things and either never used them or barely used them. Everything is original including the paint. Heck looks like the original grease is still in place. Steve has been trying to get to get into the old boat and engines and for $100 including the stand I couldn't resist. I figured if I don't end up keeping it I could always sell it to Steve or Ken but in this condition I may just keep it. I'm sure Ken will tell me what I have and whats it worth.

No Gary, if I won the lottery I would buy an old abandoned Wal-Mart building for a horse barn.

Pics after clean up. I might start some more topics on these so I can put up more pics of each, they are in really nice shape.

Sure looks it to me Mike, heavy suckers. I've had them on quite a few cars backs in the day. I had a real nice black 79 Z-28 that had a built 327 Vette motor in it with headers and Cherry Bombs. When you got into it, WICKED LOUD. I can remember late one Friday night me and a buddy were doing donuts around a light pole in the Caldor parking lot for what seemed like 5 minutes with that 327 wide open most of the time. What can I say, It seemed like the right thing to do at the time. A Brookfield cop showed up and told me he heard this evil sound from well over a mile away and just followed the noise until he found me at the end of it. He told me that was enough for now and sent me on my way! And that is my Cherry Bomb fondest memory... By the way, cool tractor but unsupported that is a pretty heavy muffler...

Steve i'll just through in my two cents about the electric. I understand that 100 amps is probably all you will ever need. You yourself said you weren't going to take any short cuts on the barn with the money your putting in it and the fact this is the last house your living in for a long time. With that said, I would have Tim do a cost analysts of the difference between the 100 and 200 amp services. If it's not crazy more money, I would go with the 200 amp just for possible future upgrades. If 5 years from now you do want to end up adding electric etc. you'll be glad you did. Remember, when you have 100 amps thats it. Just like a car if the speed limit is 55 then in theory thats all that the car should be able to do. But they make them able to go faster for a reason. You don't want to run at that speed all the time because you'd be running the engine at 100% for extended periods which will end in premature failure. Probably not the best analogy as I know you won't be running everything all at once but I'm sure you get my drift. I'm not an electrician but been around the block if you know what I mean. If it was me, and I was putting the amount of money you are into that project, then an extra $1000-$2000 wouldn't stop me from going with the 200 amp service. But then again, I would have a huge compressor, Bridgeport milling machine, lathe, some type of heating system, welder etc. If you don't do it now and need it later you'll regret you didn't. If you do need a bigger service later on, what a nightmare it will be! Again just my $0.02

Here is one of my commando 8 I was trying to sell it and nobody was interested I had it for sale for 250$ and I didn't even get a call on it so I decided to keep it I've been working on the deck and cleaning it up

Another thought. You opened this thread with the statement you had a fish on the line. That's a misstatement. That fish is the bait and your are the fish getting ready to strike. Don't know why you only have one day to decide, but this guy sounds like a used car salesman on a slow lot, trying to push you hard to get the sale. By the way, don't be afraid of a machine that has been restored by the guys up here. Most do a frame off restoration and when finished they are as good or better than new. Ken, that is a beautiful machine. I only hope I can make my 417-H look half as good. You sir are an artist.

Andy: I would replace the o rings with new ones. I can send you some if you can't source them locally (You were a big help in getting my D200 back on the road!!!). The backer rings I would reuse if they were not damaged. If they are screwed up I can go to a local hydro place and see if he can match them for you.

I have a wicked nice 417 I'll sell for much less than that... This is the one I'm considering selling.. I have two and don't need two 417's..

Yep, McMaster-Carr to the rescue!

I put the snowplow of the 314 Wheel Horse today. This plow has the five hole index sector on it so I should be prepared to move some snow this winter. I have rubber tire chains but will wait until later to put those on. I also have the 1967 Lawn Ranger with the STR-324 snowblower all ready and greased up the auger chain and other parts on the tractor today. 314 Wheel Horse with 42 inch -five sector plow: 1967 Lawn Ranger with 32 inch snowbower: I had some of the others out in the yard while cleaning the garage : 1958 RJ's: 1975 B-80:

Like these? any normal hardware store should have them in the fastener aisle.... you know in those little drawer trays.

I have heard of that tool and would love to get me one. Many times I could have used something like that. I have a tool that plugs into house hold sockets and sends a signal over the AC wave forms. Then I can go to the breaker box and search what breaker that particular receptacle is attached to with a hand held unit that produces a high pitch signal like a metal detector when I hover over the right breaker. Has been the best tool in the world with houses that were wired by Tim the tool man Taylor and unmarked breakers! Lets see a picture!

The way the regs are written, they cover everything. Over 200 sq. ft. you might as well build a house. I ran into something similar in Chicago. There was a huge tragedy where a three-story backporch fell down and had fatalities. I built a deck a few years later that was only four feet off the ground but needed 18" diameter and 42" deep footings, and 10"x10" columns due to the revised regulations. Definitely overkill. The other problem is accessibility for a tractor. It is within the back corner of a fenced portion where we have a garden. One direction to it is "stepped," and the other has too small a gate. And if I was to just replace it, I would need a "demolition permit." The county uses aerial surveillance for taxing purposes so I would eventually be called to terms. The plan is to stay here another three years and retire so it just becomes too $. I'm sure the next owner won't have a herd. I could use it for "half tractors" though.

Welcome!!! KyBill! I am about 18 miles NE of Louisville, near Lagrange in Oldham County. I have been around this place for a few years!!! Recently retired and have attended a few local shows as well as the big show in PA for 5 times out of the last 7 years. If your into Wheel Horses this is the place to be. There is about 15 different LAGT shows a year around Southern IN and OH, all within 3-4 hours of Louisville.

OK you are my new hero. 9.95 per seat is pretty awesome. One thing I need though, somewhere else to buy more like this one. I just bought all they had this morning.

One thing I can guarantee you is that if you call Geno and tell him you have ten Wheel Horses with attachments, and you live in Nome Alaska, he will find a way to get there and stack them on that trailer, harming nothing, even in the dead of winter, during the worst blizzard, in the last 100 years.

In regard to the led..the link you sent me to..are they red led? What about volt rating? I bought a better iron specifically for working on boards. .its pretty easy. I understand resistance. ..Just was unsure what to trace. Also, hooking up to a bad resistor went tell me what I want. ..so I'd have to find a matching resistor somewhere else on the board. ..right? If I knew what to trace I could do it. I'll get I pic of the back of the board tonight. By the way. .the 12v stab in connector isnt the best. .any idea if I can buy a new edge connector?

Ooooooooooooooooooohhh!!!!!

Thank you, that's all I wanted was an answer. It shouldn't get nasty Nick. I just asked an honest question about what someone would do in a situation and was trying to get an answer.

And that can be easily accomplished with liquid tape... I'm gonna chime in with my two pennies.. I don't do wiring for a living but yes I can troubleshoot and fix when I have to. It's not going to hurt the wire if it's resealed. Be as good as new and last just as long... So if you want to do it your way by all means... Do it your way. I'll do it mine, and if I ever need Geno to do any wiring for me... I have faith in his way and his willingness to stand behind it. Different doesn't always mean wrong... Just means different. You take the scenic route and I'll take the expressway... In the end... We both get to our destination. I'm just there first and playing on my horses.

When diagnosing an electrical problem, expedience is the driving force. Time is money. The ultimate and most best practice may be not to ever pierce a wire. That is a given. The question is will it harm a circuit to pierce a wire. Under most cases I would suggest that it will not. Now if you were to take a wire bundle and start piercing most of the wires in that bundle in the same spot, there is a chance you could cause a very high voltage to jump across to the wire next to it. But who would do that? If I had to pierce several wires in the same bundle I would make sure that I staggered the point of piercing to prevent arcing. We don't deal with high voltages in this type of repair except for the coil and it would never be necessary to pierce a coil wire as it is always easy to test continuity from one end to the other. Pierce a wire and then dunk it in a pail of water, Remove it and run voltage through it. You won't see voltage arcs jumping around like a horror movie. We are talking 12 volts here at 30 amps or less. mostly less. Ten years down the road that wire will still carry 12 volts at 30 amps and you won't see any corrosion either. This is a silly argument. If you don't want to pierce a wire then take the extra hours of your time to diagnose the problem in the best practice manner. If that is what works for you than that's what you should do. There are times when getting to the source of a wire is just about impossible. Especially when working on cars. The wiring is placed in the vehicle before the instruments and seats and a sundry of other things are placed in the vehicle. Wires run through door panels and under rugs and in the headliner. In my Cadillac, to get at some of the rear lights, I have to dismantle part of the trunk lid. the engine is mounted sideways and to get to wiring behind the engine, you need to take the top motor mounts lose and pull the engine forward. I'm not doing that. I will pierce the wire where I can get at it. This is a matter of opinion. Every one has an opinion and is entitled to it. It is not worth arguing about. I sense that some folks are really agitated over this. Looks like it is about to get nasty. Since I started to write this post, I have received notice that there are six more replies. That is real activity for such a trivial matter.

why pierce the wire allowing moisture (rain or humidity) into the wire? that is just a terrible idea! there are other ways than piercing the insulation, i.e. finding a connector and checking there, and if you need the circuit to be complete, then back probe the connector, never pierce the wire insulation your just asking for problems. and if you already know there is a problem in that circuit, why make more problems within that circuit by poking holes?

your prayers have been answered http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=deb1fbd67771b043e8501c4b81c9245d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fsaveoldiron.47.forumer.com%2Freplacement-vinyl-seat-covers-t2179964.html&v=1&libid=1364176239393&out=http%3A%2F%2Fstore.colemans.com%2Fcart%2Findex.php%3Fmain_page%3Dadvanced_search_result%26search_in_description%3D1%26keyword%3Dtractor&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fsaveoldiron.47.forumer.com%2Fsupplier-links-part-numbers-f54116.html&title=%E2%80%A2%20View%20topic%20-%20Replacement%20vinyl%20seat%20covers&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fstore.colemans.com%2Fcart%2Findex.ph%20...%20rd%3Dtractor&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13641762800014

That thing is awesome!

That is amazing! That stuff is just so cool. What a feat of engineering there!

We gonna need a video clip here... gotta hear it sing WFO.

clean it up, get it running right and make it look they way you want. fuel pump is just some gaskets (pump is on the side of the carb), the tins on the engine look right, the screen on the flywheel needs to come off and maybe that round part as well, its been a while since i had my screen off, but its really just missing the screen that covers that whole flywheel side of the engine. my 1848 had pump problems when i got it, easy fix, the gaskets and diaphragm are easy to replace on the side of the carb, run some decent oil in the engine and change it out a few times and see what you've got..... heres the thread on when i got mine......

Hey, I saw your post but thought it was maybe a tease........ In the many years I have been giving "long distance" advise, I'm embarrassed to say how many hours (mine and the owner's) were wasted on unproductive troubleshooting when false assumptions were made about the battery condition. Sulfated batteries will charge to 12.6 volts but nose dive below 9 volts when challenged by long term cranking demands. heeded your advice on jumping battery + to the coil +........ and cranked it by jumping the starter solenoid .......fired off after about try #3. tried it without the coil jumped and again ......jumping the solenoid it started after about try #3 again until the fuel poured in ran out ~ 5 sec max So, it seems I was getting spark [i swear I didn't see any] and the battery is good but it does nothing with the key turned to start and I've got a fuel issue Correct, soak the carb in cleaner and perform a rebuild if necessary. We can proceed on with the safety switch checks while the carb is soaking. The 417 wiring diagram doesn't seem to have the same wiring colors [and/or it's very hard to tell] so I went by location mostly ~ furthest being the seat safety switch, next furthest the park brake safety switch but I never did locate a PTO or Neutral safety switch or wiring PTO switches should be in the hoodstand and linked to the action of the PTO handle. Check up near the battery area. I do not have any experience with 417 neutral switches - someone else needs to chime in on this one. I imagine it is linked to the movement of the clutch pedal and is probably mounted in the area near the frame under the shifter plate. After asking Dad again today he said he just set the throttle, pulled the choke and turned the key and Varroom.............. so ?? So - are we fixed now? I'm not sure what you are asking.

Today we were able to get more of the decking on and hung the front gutter. Last pic shows me taking a little break and checking out the view...

Here is mine...it is home made. I do not know who made it, my Dad got it from somewhere, but it works great. The back end gate is like on a couple of hooby-doobys at the top that let the gate open up when dumped.

OK, now I get it. That explains why the Hoosiers ran me out of the state.

I get mine from summitracing.com as they are very competitive price-wise.They come boxed, not squished, and have free shipping over $99.00.

Hospital I work at is going bonkers. They dragged out an emergency management trailer that has been parked out back for 3 years and stuck it by the ER. They had a huge double door refrigerator freezer that was part of the emergency preparedness equipment. When we first got it, I had to take doors off of the building just to get it in. That bldg got torn down a year and a half ago. They put that fridge in storage at another site. It was seen a month ago. They went to get it today and it was gone! how does someone steal a giant refrigerator?

I've thought of doing this too....but it might consist of only me out in my shed drinking beer and talking to myself...so, basically I have a meet and greet almost every night

Saved from virtual Scrap. Belgium Built Euro Model. Was in a real bad way. Original Engine totally wasted. Fully Re-bored/Rebuilt an alternative 12hp. ......Full 2 year project. Now with Tri Ribs-

We were all graced with some real down to earth quality individuals. Members of the Pond family made the trip down and spent the day with us. I feel horrible that they were late to a niece's birthday party but so humbled by the fact that they decided to make the trip and be part of our raffle and show. What a fantastic family and a great legacy that Cecil left behind. I really appreciate the time that I was able to talk and hear some first hand history of the Pond family and the involvement of Wheel Horse. I can't thank them enough for taking the time to be with all of us. From left to right......... Johnathan (Cecil's grandson), Linda (Cecil's daughter), Gary (Cecil's son and father of Johnathan), Martha (Gary's wife) Last picture....I was very humbled to be asked by the family to take part in a photo along with them. Thank you!