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Heres all of our restored wheelhorses including a electro 12 raider 12 854 with sickle mower and my a-90 special that was extended 14''

Many of you know of Geno and his massive collecting effort, but few of you are as affected as those of us that live within a few hundred miles of him! (I have much respect for Geno, but I have to rib him a little! ) Despite that fact, I was able to wrangle me a horse today (it helps that it was closer to me). Real nice fellow that used to use it to cut his yard but hasn't needed it in a couple years. Its not the prettiest but it is solid. 1991 520H, 683 hours.

Went to look at the tractor the fellow called about on Tuesday. It is a 1975 C-100, and is in perfect shape. I will show the photos, and you tell me what you think it is worth. I will tell you what he wants for it later!

A few weeks ago I come across a sickle bar mower that happened to be for a 1054.....a frame that is 1 1/4 inch wider than the regular frame.....I wanted to mount it on my Charger mutt so....... I bought a 3 1/2" pulley at TSC for the drive......shimmed the right side of the belly mount 1/2 inch on the right side and 3/4 on the left...I really wanted the pivot shaft as far under the tractor as possible and the pulleys to line up on the drive side.....some pictures......enjoy!!! Front drive unit....... Rear pivot.....this part was missing so I had to fab one up.....this is why I had to get under the tractor as far as possible....otherwise the frame supports would have been too close for the pivot hole..... Any guesses what I used for the rear pivot mount????? Nice scratch on the belt guard from my idiocracy.....knuckles and paint always get scraped up when I get too rammy.... One thing I added was a lift linkage.....this sucker is HEAVY.....for now this bent PTO rod is working...... Add I couldn't have got it completed without my bestest friend.......

Basically JD its like this. Your starter motor is most likely not recieving enough voltage/amperage to engage the starter bendix into the teeth of the flywheel. I don't know how mechanically minded you are but first thing you will need to determine that the battery has full power, and is properly grounded to the frame area of the tractor, and the terminals are clean and tight on the battery. If the tractor does not start, the next thing to do is go to the local auto parts store and buy yourself a remote starter switch. Connect one lead of the switch to the pos+ terminal of the battery, the other end to the little terminal on the starter relay. You will have to unplug a wire from this terminal to connect your lead. With the transmission in neutral, engage the remote starter switch. If the battery is good, and the battery cables are good, this should spin the starter motor at full speed. If not then you may want to enlist some help from a knowledgeable friend to further divide and conquor your problem. Note that I said spin the starter at full speed. I did not say spin the starter at full speed and engage the flywheel. Hopefully this will be the case and the engine will start and run. If the starter is turning full speed but not engaging the flywheel, then that is an indication the starter bendix is totally dry and is stuck on the starter motor shaft. You will then need to remove the starter and lubricate the bendix. JD I don't want to overload you with information. If you take it this far on your own, we can get you the rest of the way. I went ahead and and jumped in here this deep because I just had this issue with a 312 tractor (same engine), and this is what it took to find the problem and make the repair. Good luck.

One off brand interloper on the job site was enough.

Try running the engine wide open with the lights on. They should brighten up. The Briggs has an unregulated power supply for the lights. The faster it runs, the more voltage output.

Depending what the membership thinks your problem is here is an engine service manual Here are the detailed wiring diagrams from the 523 page Demystification Guide for your model http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2211-tractor-1994-1997-314-8-wiring-detailed-492-4509pdf/ The tractor operator manual ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> The tractor illustrated parts lists ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> Do you have a test light or a voltmeter for testing purposes? Garry

Not much to add right now. Other things have kept me too busy. I did get the tool box and seat spring installed as well as the front end parts painted. I'll post pics when I get a little more done. This came in the mail today. Purchased direct rather than Ebay which saved a little. He has both styles for Suburbans as well as RJ's. Also RJ 25/35 pulleys and reverse disks. I'm real happy with the guard. I don't know if I'll have to do any mods to it so I'll wait to paint it until I get to that point.

Martin...if you pull up a copy of the transmission manual, you can see what horses come with what transmissions. The #5045, 5047, 5051, 5059 and 5058 were all basically the same heavy duty bi-level gear differential transmissions with 1 1/8" axles. So, looking at the list...those transmissions are in the 1054, the 1965/1054A, none in 1966, and the 1057 and 1257, If the list is correct, that is where they are. Thanks Garry for telling us how to do searches for these manuals.

Looking forward to getting back out in the barn after school tonight. So much to be done, yet we are so close on both machines. The kids are starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Tonight will be a little different as well as this is our first time adding some new club members. There will be two young 6th grade boys who are just great kids that will be joining us. They are very eager to get their hands dirty! I don't think they have a clue what is about to happen! Last night I hooked up the open trailer and loaded up the tractor that was won through the essay contest. After going over all of the safety rules, procedures, expectations, etc. the disassembly might begin tonight on the B-80. The other kids in the group will be plugging away on the other tractors. Things are about to get interesting to say the least. Tune back in and check how we are doing!

Proof of life! (warning: 4 minutes of listening to an Onan and watching me steer around a parking lot)

I hope we are. Of course if you start trolling Eastern Pa or Md, that might change. I might have to send my cousin Guido to pay you a visit.

Geno, I can take anything apart.....................................

Hey Nick, I thought we were buds!

Bad??? In my profession, that was a DISASTER! I have never, in work or picking games, had such a disasterous week.... If I were standing in a room, and a skunk walked in, he would smell better than I do! Rob

I've tried it out only a little on some day lillies....did a great job....the road crew just went by a couple days before I had it ready and mowed the roadsides.....bummer I'll try to get a good video of it.....not what I already have....lol

there is plenty of talent here to help you resolve your problem. It sounds like a voltage drop to the starter but no telling until you take some voltage readings.

Here are the pics from yesterday. They will be loaded up and delivered tomorrow....

Gary, After you have drained the kerosene the first time, I'd add a little motor oil to the mix. I think that as soon as possible you should get some lubrication going on.

A search engine should be every ones best friend. Here's a hundred links to the connector you need. They are used everywhere. I think the first ones I replaced were in pinball machines in the 70's, you have the same one on your tractor. https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AvmmxioA.ocd2t.9xtCX5PKbvZx4?p=9+pin+molex+connector&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-250&fp=1

Looks like your 314 is from 1997 Your Kohler motor is know as a Magnum engine (meaning it has a magneto instead of points) others, who own this set up, will chime in. there is a great topic search engine on this forum. also great downloadable manuals etc for free! Welcome aboard!!

I cringe when I would have to start pumping that ridiculous load of grease - bout a whole tube for one side!! And living in the south I dont have to be concerned with water getting in...unless I take it for a swim After seeing some of the guys here making their own front spindles, I've started making my own too, and I go to sealed ball bearings with that mod - then I dont have to put ANY grease in

From my understanding the Onan engines sat opposed in JD tractors but they were heavily guarded with screening so the front of the tractor looked more complete...I think therein lies the problem....low or no airflow again. Onan generators seemed to do better. We had them on all the Verizon bucket trucks and many huts used them for back up power. Although the constant use wasn't like that of a tractor that gets used very week for extended periods... And thats all Im' saying about that as I'm getting bumps and sweating from all this green tractor talk......and also the last thing I need is the Onan in Dads new 416 to poop the bed....

I would contact Boomer. If anyone can tell you how to fix it he can.

Even as a dealer we have been known to get SH parts from the US, but Hayter are pretty good now with the stock they keep. Dont forget that parts that are no longer available in the USA are still sometimes in stock over here, we got several GT14 parts that are NLA in the states.

Better lock it up tight, Geno could be on the prowl

When I was in the office equipment repair business, some of our voltages that has to be confirmed were like 5.25 vdc. It was not possible to get an accurate reading with an analog, so I got used to using a digital.

That thing looks great Bob...I wish I would have bought it when I had the chance!! Maybe someday I'll be lucky enough to own one for mowing around the ponds and ditches on the farm here

I know that you will like it. It is the same as the one I bought for 75 bucks at the Zagray Farm show last summer. I would go ahead and replace the auger belt. I have found that many people sell their snow blowers because they stop throwing the snow like they used to. Its a pretty easy job and better to do it now than when their is 10 inches of snow on the ground. I couldn't have done without mine this past winter. I need a path out to the wood pile and my spoiled Beagle won't go out and do her business in deep snow so I need to clear some pathways for her. The nice thing about a blower is it doesn't leave messy snow piles all over the place and my yard no longer gets all torn up from the tractor with a blade on it.

Nice tractor.....520's seem to be showing up a lot lately.....

you are spot on Ed. I've added the ones around here that i use and updated some others as well. the importance of users updating and using accurate info on the site can't be emphasized enough. without testing the individual stations, its all anybody has to go by.......

Martin, and everybody... The pure-gas.org site relies on guys like us to keep their information current. Feel free to add stations to their list. Which reminds me, my favorite station in Virginia isn't on there... yet.

I thought I would post the clean up of the 502 I got at the mid mo meet and greet its been a while sense I've had a thread about what I've been working on. Here's what I have the belt guard says its a 502 but I think its a 552 it has the battery box and the HH55 looks original and it ran but the valves are shot and the seats are very pitted someone reground the valves but did not recut the seats so it would run but wouldn't pull its self when I tried to ride it around the yard I cleaned it up with sos pads and pulled the motor I'm not going to paint it I like the old pinta here's sum pics

Funny how the "just appear" at my barn.....I may never buy another Wheel Horse...best one was a 40 ft trailer with 9 WH's inside...one was even painted GREEN and it went on a trip to Columbia MO and never came back!

You got gene drooling on that one,,,,,,,,,,,, trust me. Lol Best of luck. Glenn

Both valves are in the block next to each other and parallel to the cylinder. Sometimes they call it a Flat-Head engine. The piston and valves form an inverted L. I have an 11HP Snow King on my Ariens and I feel that they have a distinct powerful sound.

Here are the 2 Ford paint colors used Garry

Very nice Slammer. That seat may have some real value, it looks like it came from a piece of McCormick Deering horse drawn equipment. There should be a 3 digit casting number on the bottom and it may or may not have a D in front of the 3 numbers.

Any 8 speed from 1978 C series and 300/400/500 through end of production will be a drop in replacement. However, not all of the 8 speeds were 8 pinion differential like you have in your C121. Some of the low hp 300 series were 4 pinion differential (meaning not as robust). I think all the 4 pinion models had 1 inch axles while the 8 pinion models had 1 1/8 inch axles. If you put in a 4 pinion trans, just remember to go easy and get your original back into the machine.

I am far from knowledgeable on these. All I can do is relay what I find in manuals and don't mind being corrected. When the older manuals started to disappear online it was time to post the ipl's for the transmissions just in case. I titled them all using the number of forward speeds and axle diameter so search the manuals using forward speeds and they will all come up. Next step is to change the Submission date at the top of the page to Title. Then change Descending order to Ascending order. Now you can scroll down the page. Each 3-speed has a 3A, 3B or 3C etc following the axle diameter. The A's are all interchangeable. The 3C's are all for the 953, 1054 and 1054A. The 4th 3C is a transmission that was available from parts after 1965. Next is the 5058 transmission (3E) in this thread and was only used in 1967 according to the parts lists for the tractor models 1057 and 1257. What is odd is the parts list identifies it as a 5080 transmission but in the notes Use 5058 as a complete replacement. The 5080 doesn't show up until 1971 in the WorkHorse 800 and it has 1" axles and 4 spur pinion gears. How did that end up in a 1967 manual? I think the 5080 in the 1967 manual is a mistake but why didn't they catch that? I doubt the complete service transmissions came with hubs because they came less the shifter as per an earlier bulletin. 1-1/8" hubs won't fit the 1" axles. And where did they get the 5080 in the 1967 manual when the transmission wasn't used until 1971? One observation using this progressive transmission list is all the 1964 transmission model numbers were replaced in 1965 with new model numbers. I suspect the reason was the revised shift rails and detent parts that were released in 1964. Interested in your thoughts. Garry

The belt guard is off...

I like my ensure in chocolate flavor.

Just a two wheel cart? Practice. Four Wheeled Wagon? LOTS of Practice.

Definitly the bevel gear differential...If I was you Craig I would also pull it apart and check the internal gears...This is the same differential in the 953-1054 trans and are know to be weak....but the 953-1054 ia alot heavier machine than the commando..The gears are known to crack and the plates inside that float with the pin that hold the other set of gears are known to crack and break....I have replaced a few of them...also have swapped in the 8-pinion differential in them too....This goes to show that just what the books say isn't always right..I have learned something new by this Thread..And it is good to know..Thanks for the great pics!!!!

Wasn't sure if the 1-1/8" numbers were in there...going to check now. Humm...is the Torrington B-1816 # at the bottom of Steve's third PDF the one I'm in need of?

Don't let Bowtie Guy hear that he almost didn't let the seat go with the tractor.

he's got skills.... and he knows how to use them... sounds like the beginnings of a ZZ Top song!

I concur with everything you have stated Andy. I imported many parts, New and Used from 2009 on and the shipping was not too bad back then. I also brought several parts through my local Toro Stockist (Tim & Simon) Import Shipping costs make it now virtually undesirable to buy from the U.S, and that is not accounting for Import Duty. Although a few U.S. Sellers are still pretty good with their charges, and I will still use them. Always a dilemma where you either pay more because of availability (US) or wait for it to become available here and have less choice of condition (if a Used part). Nice to have more than one option though. I tend to buy my Service Kohler parts from the U.S. anyway. .

I can just make out my itty bitty tractor in one pic. That 1 senior looks Heavy Duty! I never knew they made a" Senior 6" :bow-blue: