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Heres all of our restored wheelhorses including a electro 12 raider 12 854 with sickle mower and my a-90 special that was extended 14''

Many of you know of Geno and his massive collecting effort, but few of you are as affected as those of us that live within a few hundred miles of him! (I have much respect for Geno, but I have to rib him a little! ) Despite that fact, I was able to wrangle me a horse today (it helps that it was closer to me). Real nice fellow that used to use it to cut his yard but hasn't needed it in a couple years. Its not the prettiest but it is solid. 1991 520H, 683 hours.

Went to look at the tractor the fellow called about on Tuesday. It is a 1975 C-100, and is in perfect shape. I will show the photos, and you tell me what you think it is worth. I will tell you what he wants for it later!

A few weeks ago I come across a sickle bar mower that happened to be for a 1054.....a frame that is 1 1/4 inch wider than the regular frame.....I wanted to mount it on my Charger mutt so....... I bought a 3 1/2" pulley at TSC for the drive......shimmed the right side of the belly mount 1/2 inch on the right side and 3/4 on the left...I really wanted the pivot shaft as far under the tractor as possible and the pulleys to line up on the drive side.....some pictures......enjoy!!! Front drive unit....... Rear pivot.....this part was missing so I had to fab one up.....this is why I had to get under the tractor as far as possible....otherwise the frame supports would have been too close for the pivot hole..... Any guesses what I used for the rear pivot mount????? Nice scratch on the belt guard from my idiocracy.....knuckles and paint always get scraped up when I get too rammy.... One thing I added was a lift linkage.....this sucker is HEAVY.....for now this bent PTO rod is working...... Add I couldn't have got it completed without my bestest friend.......

Basically JD its like this. Your starter motor is most likely not recieving enough voltage/amperage to engage the starter bendix into the teeth of the flywheel. I don't know how mechanically minded you are but first thing you will need to determine that the battery has full power, and is properly grounded to the frame area of the tractor, and the terminals are clean and tight on the battery. If the tractor does not start, the next thing to do is go to the local auto parts store and buy yourself a remote starter switch. Connect one lead of the switch to the pos+ terminal of the battery, the other end to the little terminal on the starter relay. You will have to unplug a wire from this terminal to connect your lead. With the transmission in neutral, engage the remote starter switch. If the battery is good, and the battery cables are good, this should spin the starter motor at full speed. If not then you may want to enlist some help from a knowledgeable friend to further divide and conquor your problem. Note that I said spin the starter at full speed. I did not say spin the starter at full speed and engage the flywheel. Hopefully this will be the case and the engine will start and run. If the starter is turning full speed but not engaging the flywheel, then that is an indication the starter bendix is totally dry and is stuck on the starter motor shaft. You will then need to remove the starter and lubricate the bendix. JD I don't want to overload you with information. If you take it this far on your own, we can get you the rest of the way. I went ahead and and jumped in here this deep because I just had this issue with a 312 tractor (same engine), and this is what it took to find the problem and make the repair. Good luck.

One off brand interloper on the job site was enough.

Try running the engine wide open with the lights on. They should brighten up. The Briggs has an unregulated power supply for the lights. The faster it runs, the more voltage output.

Depending what the membership thinks your problem is here is an engine service manual Here are the detailed wiring diagrams from the 523 page Demystification Guide for your model http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2211-tractor-1994-1997-314-8-wiring-detailed-492-4509pdf/ The tractor operator manual ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> The tractor illustrated parts lists ?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent> Do you have a test light or a voltmeter for testing purposes? Garry

Not much to add right now. Other things have kept me too busy. I did get the tool box and seat spring installed as well as the front end parts painted. I'll post pics when I get a little more done. This came in the mail today. Purchased direct rather than Ebay which saved a little. He has both styles for Suburbans as well as RJ's. Also RJ 25/35 pulleys and reverse disks. I'm real happy with the guard. I don't know if I'll have to do any mods to it so I'll wait to paint it until I get to that point.

Martin...if you pull up a copy of the transmission manual, you can see what horses come with what transmissions. The #5045, 5047, 5051, 5059 and 5058 were all basically the same heavy duty bi-level gear differential transmissions with 1 1/8" axles. So, looking at the list...those transmissions are in the 1054, the 1965/1054A, none in 1966, and the 1057 and 1257, If the list is correct, that is where they are. Thanks Garry for telling us how to do searches for these manuals.

Looking forward to getting back out in the barn after school tonight. So much to be done, yet we are so close on both machines. The kids are starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Tonight will be a little different as well as this is our first time adding some new club members. There will be two young 6th grade boys who are just great kids that will be joining us. They are very eager to get their hands dirty! I don't think they have a clue what is about to happen! Last night I hooked up the open trailer and loaded up the tractor that was won through the essay contest. After going over all of the safety rules, procedures, expectations, etc. the disassembly might begin tonight on the B-80. The other kids in the group will be plugging away on the other tractors. Things are about to get interesting to say the least. Tune back in and check how we are doing!

.... but can you put it back together.... I havent dug into the gauges yet, but I'm sure I will be. If nothing other than to hide all those little 'toros'

Geno, I can take anything apart.....................................

Hey Nick, I thought we were buds!

Yeah whatever NO ONE STINKS AS BAD AS ME! I AM SO TIRED OF THIS CRAP IM GONNA TAKE UP PLAYIN CHECKERS!

there is plenty of talent here to help you resolve your problem. It sounds like a voltage drop to the starter but no telling until you take some voltage readings.

Okay, this is where I get excited, seeing the barn frame on the truck... Wait, where the heck are the photos of which you speak?

Go here and type in your model number. You will be able download all the service manuals for your tractor. There is one on there with over 500 pages in it. Make sure you download that one as it is the Demystification Guide and is the most important one when it comes to electrical problems. http://www.toro.com/en-us/parts/Pages/PartsLookupResults.aspx?searchTerm=73402&BasicSearchFilter=equipment First I would make sure the battery is fully charged. Then check the ground wire for a good clean connection.

A search engine should be every ones best friend. Here's a hundred links to the connector you need. They are used everywhere. I think the first ones I replaced were in pinball machines in the 70's, you have the same one on your tractor. https://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=AvmmxioA.ocd2t.9xtCX5PKbvZx4?p=9+pin+molex+connector&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&fr=yfp-t-250&fp=1

Please, if you start cutting wires, at least take photos so you can see how to put them back together.

I cringe when I would have to start pumping that ridiculous load of grease - bout a whole tube for one side!! And living in the south I dont have to be concerned with water getting in...unless I take it for a swim After seeing some of the guys here making their own front spindles, I've started making my own too, and I go to sealed ball bearings with that mod - then I dont have to put ANY grease in

I hear that. If it's not original it's probably a better design and certainly something that's easy to make.

Welcome to the forum. If you can find the tractor model number and serial number they would help us help you. May be under the seat on the rear fender pan. The electrical system changed on this model between the first in 1985 and the last in 2001. Garry

I finished up the steering today. I replaced the two bushings on the steering system. I shimmed the smallest gear that works with the fan gear. I used 5000ths shim stock. I left the smaller block as it was. I felt it wouldn't have done much good to shim it. I now have 2" of play in the wheel. I'm very happy with that. It's the same amount of play as my other 520H that has 355 hours on it. Before I did this, there was about 4 1/2" of play. Next I'm going to clean the breather valve and baffle, cylinder head deposits and adjust the valves. How should I go about cleaning the breather valve and baffle?

It does say "Senior Member" above your avatar, you should change that.

I know a few small engine mechanics who say its not Just Wheel Horses...Its Onan.....They had Issues in those green tractors too with Onans

Hi, just thought you may like to see some pictures of my Raider 12. I bought this as a project nearly two years ago to keep me amused but with the intention of using it to cut grass as I had just purchased a small barn in SW France with half an acre of grass. As always these things take longer than intended and other projects jump the queue. But its nearly finished now, only job is to cut some Perspex for the lights and put the replica decal on to finish the job and sort out the parking brake. I have the right angle piece of metal but can not work out how to fit it and did not take a picture before taking it all apart, can any one help with a picture as the diagrams I have seen have not been very clear. More importantly I have a fuel problem, I used the horse about four weeks ago to cut the neighbours grass and it ran and idled perfectly but today when trying to start it petrol poured out of the front of the carb. I got it started by clamping the fuel hose between the pump and carb with a Mole wrench and then when the engine was running removed the clamp. But it would only run fast and if the throttle was reduced it would run rich and stall. My thoughts are that there is dirt in the carb blocking the float valve but I rebuilt the carb and fitted new hosed and fuel filter so there should not be any dirt in the system. Is this the petrol 'going off' and sticky in the short period of idleness? The machine has been kept in a dry garage and the fuel is recent and works in my other mower, any suggestions here would be appreciated. All in all a successful project and only one part left over with out a home, but as it works it can't be too important. Just need to find some wheels and ag-tyres to complete the project. Next job is to take it all apart so it will go in the car and take it to France. Lastly thanks to Meadowfield for the decals that really finish it off. Andrew

Yep! She fired up the first try with a jump. It currently suffers from the hunting problem, but I think a good carb cleaning and fresh gas will take care of that no problem. It sounds strong. With some persuasive wiggling I got the motion control lever to move forward almost all the way (It suddenly broke free while wiggling and I left skidmarks! Hydro = strong). Still working on reverse but I brought some good liquids today to help getting everything moving.

Front Hitch!!! Back when we had to load 1.5 ton trailers on to C141s and C130s we put a pintle on the front bumper of a 3/4 ton and pushed the trailers in. Putting a trailer into the side of a multi million $$$ airplane is not a good thing. As you can see I still use the same concept when i have to back up a 4 wheel trailer or put a 2 wheel device into a tight space

well may get to work on it some today but on a side note I sold my barkbuster to Geno, him and his wife are nicest people I have been around for a long time. If I could have I would have just gave him the barkbuster and all I can say is God Bless Them.

Over the years, I have seen several newbies on Red Square ask the question: Where do you find Wheel Horse tractors to buy? The normal answer is CL, Ebay, local trader & classified ads. Once, some responded with, "If you look long enough, they will find you"! Well, I have come to this point in my collecting! This evening a guy calls (I know his wife) and said he had a WH he got from his brother and didn't want it anymore. Lots more to the chit-chat between us, but I asked, "Do you know what model it is"? He said yes, "It is 10 horsepower"! I still don't know anything about it, but will look at it tomorrow!

Look at the first pict...see those eyes? Poor can't wait to get off that JD trailer. Nice score Brandon.

The longer the cart, the easier it is to back up where you want it. Try extending the tow bar to forty five feet! Really, much easier!

WOW, that was a heck of a herd at once!

Cant wait to hear about it,,,, ps,,,,,,,,,, dont forget pictures. Good luck. Glenn

Digger 66, I could not agree with you more. I have driven a truck for 30 years. First time I hooked up to 28 footer after pulling 45's and 53's it's like I had never backed up a trailer before. Kinda like trying to back up a 4 wheel wagon.

Both valves are in the block next to each other and parallel to the cylinder. Sometimes they call it a Flat-Head engine. The piston and valves form an inverted L. I have an 11HP Snow King on my Ariens and I feel that they have a distinct powerful sound.

If she's peeking over your shoulder like mine does all the time, I'm sure she doesn't look a day over 29.

Any 8 speed from 1978 C series and 300/400/500 through end of production will be a drop in replacement. However, not all of the 8 speeds were 8 pinion differential like you have in your C121. Some of the low hp 300 series were 4 pinion differential (meaning not as robust). I think all the 4 pinion models had 1 inch axles while the 8 pinion models had 1 1/8 inch axles. If you put in a 4 pinion trans, just remember to go easy and get your original back into the machine.

I am far from knowledgeable on these. All I can do is relay what I find in manuals and don't mind being corrected. When the older manuals started to disappear online it was time to post the ipl's for the transmissions just in case. I titled them all using the number of forward speeds and axle diameter so search the manuals using forward speeds and they will all come up. Next step is to change the Submission date at the top of the page to Title. Then change Descending order to Ascending order. Now you can scroll down the page. Each 3-speed has a 3A, 3B or 3C etc following the axle diameter. The A's are all interchangeable. The 3C's are all for the 953, 1054 and 1054A. The 4th 3C is a transmission that was available from parts after 1965. Next is the 5058 transmission (3E) in this thread and was only used in 1967 according to the parts lists for the tractor models 1057 and 1257. What is odd is the parts list identifies it as a 5080 transmission but in the notes Use 5058 as a complete replacement. The 5080 doesn't show up until 1971 in the WorkHorse 800 and it has 1" axles and 4 spur pinion gears. How did that end up in a 1967 manual? I think the 5080 in the 1967 manual is a mistake but why didn't they catch that? I doubt the complete service transmissions came with hubs because they came less the shifter as per an earlier bulletin. 1-1/8" hubs won't fit the 1" axles. And where did they get the 5080 in the 1967 manual when the transmission wasn't used until 1971? One observation using this progressive transmission list is all the 1964 transmission model numbers were replaced in 1965 with new model numbers. I suspect the reason was the revised shift rails and detent parts that were released in 1964. Interested in your thoughts. Garry

Did we happen to get any pics of this ^ . As a semi driver of 22 years , I will offer this tidbit : The longer the rig is , the more forgiving it is . After driving my 48 footer with a single screw day cab all day , it's quite the episode to watch me try to back my little snowmobile trailer into the driveway with the Silverado .

The belt guard is off...

I got the motor switch out today to a HH-60 that had setting on the shelf for about a year and it fired right up and runs great needless to say I'm super excited here are a few pics I still need to get it all wired up and need to paint the wheels

Just a two wheel cart? Practice. Four Wheeled Wagon? LOTS of Practice.

As we all well know second place is for the birds! I am really not hoping to finish there or who knows I could end up in the basement serving donuts and ensure or something crazy like that, anyways I am not going there. I am going with the home teams this week other than one. I'll bet you'll never guess which one??? Give up??? I'll take the Iowa Hawkeyes over Purdue at home. So just for my "Special" Dino we are going with Penn State, Iowa, Rutgers, Wisconsin, Michigan State, Indiana, Michigan, Ohio State, Nebraska I just luv it when a plan comes together. Once again boys in girls it time for As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!!

Wasn't sure if the 1-1/8" numbers were in there...going to check now. Humm...is the Torrington B-1816 # at the bottom of Steve's third PDF the one I'm in need of?

I just got in and will try and post pics tonight but most likely tomorrow. I want to thank all who helped today. You guys are the BEST. I cannot thank you enough. I would be in trouble without your help. AMCRules (Craig) StratostarD250 (Tom), Jim (not sure your screename), Salty (Russ) and a few other non red square members. It means a lot to me to have that help and I owe you guys!

I'm going to get started on this today...one year later. Started tearing it down this afternoon. This is how far I got.

That is dad taking a nap, I mean tightening bolts. :)

I concur with everything you have stated Andy. I imported many parts, New and Used from 2009 on and the shipping was not too bad back then. I also brought several parts through my local Toro Stockist (Tim & Simon) Import Shipping costs make it now virtually undesirable to buy from the U.S, and that is not accounting for Import Duty. Although a few U.S. Sellers are still pretty good with their charges, and I will still use them. Always a dilemma where you either pay more because of availability (US) or wait for it to become available here and have less choice of condition (if a Used part). Nice to have more than one option though. I tend to buy my Service Kohler parts from the U.S. anyway. .