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I've done a few Hub repairs in the past. Thought I'd do a how to on the latest repair. One of the hubs on bendy was a real pain to remove, this was the reason... The hub had slid in and stayed that way for sometime, making a mess of the hub too. The keyway in the axle was shot, the end of the hub shot too. The end to middle was ok and useable but with a longer key to replace the small woodruff key. So I ordered a 1/4" end mill and used the lathe to cut a new one. Firstly making sure the height was spot on by marking the centre of the axle, this needs shims in order to get the correct centre. The final score line can just be seen. Then running the mill through in small passes to cut an 3 inch keyway. Once the full cut was done here's a half together shot showing the hub, fresh key steel and axle. There you have it, tools required - lathe, 1/4" end mill, 1/4 key steel, 10 mins of setup time and 20-30 mins cutting...

I went to the Nittany Antique Machinery Assoc. Inc. tractor show in Centre Hall, Pa. today (9-6-2014). Here are pics of the Wheel Horses that I saw there. Joe

More from Nittany Antique Machinery Assoc. Inc. show 9-6-14

Found this pic the other day of my father pulling me in the wagon with our 701. Thought I'd share it with everyone. Those were the good ol days! :-)

Hey Jasen if you really want to stir up a hornet's nest ask' what kind of oil do you use' ? Never fails.

Been messing with some of my 953 parts the last couple of evenings. Here's where I'm at so far..... Nowhere close to perfect...but I like it! I'm definitely going to order some new lenses from Glen soon! These are in bad shape!

So how many of you guys switch your attachments around between tractors every now and then to give them a different workout or amount of use? Today, I switched the 42" plow and 42" Rear Discharge deck between my 310-8 and my C-105, respectively I've been mowing with the C-105 this spring and summer so far, so I felt like giving a different tractor a weekly workout. I may want to start taking the C-105 apart for a restoration soon, too. Oh, and I found this gem of my dad and I when I was much younger the other day! :wh:'s always makes people happy

We hit a grand slam with the W.H. displays at the Mansfield show this weekend,awesome show,great time with fellow collectors...

Putzed around the house mounting up the RJ plow and tombstone today.

Take a look you two...I edited it at 11:28....and I picked the Irish over Michigan

I had a hard time finding a replacement drive pulley on the 5060 six speed tranny that I put in my 857. It's a 4" pulley with a 5/8" shaft and a 1/2" belt. Here's what I found and what I did to make it work, hope this might help someone else that needs one. I found this pulley at electricmotorsite.com Part number - MA40x5/8 Description - Maska 3.95 in. OD x 5/8 in. Fixed Bore A Pulley The hub is too thick so I turned it down, almost to the original set screw holes. Then I drilled and tapped new set screw holes at a slight angle. I left the original set screws in the holes and covered them with a little J B Weld just so they wouldn't show. In this pic you can see the original set screw hole filled with J B Weld and one of the new holes I tapped. Here's one I made a few years ago, before I had a lathe. I just ground the hub down with a grinder then filed it the best I could. I've ran this one on my 857 for a year now with no problems.

Had a miss I've try to fix. Changed the plug , cleaned the carburetor . When I put the carburetor back on couldn't get it to start. Checked the fuel pump would not pump. Don't know how it ran before, but it did. took the fuel pump apart and found this. Thought I had it fixed when I installed the old pump off a wore out 301. Still the same miss still there. Pulled the carburetor back off and check the valve clearance. The exhaust was fine .018 right between the .017 / .019. The intake was between .004 and .005 adjusted it to .009 right between the .008/ .010. Made a lap around the property the miss was gone. It won't never be a trailer queen, but it looks and runs a lot better.

We will really miss you Hammerhead your class act ! We all have been praying for you & your family & your health & hope to see you soon buddy & you are the man Keith ! Tim

I don't usually chime in on stuff like this since I have no expertise here, but I'll break precedent: With respect to the cooling air issue, I wouldn't expect that the airflow through the engine rises linearly with flywheel speed. Granted the fins sweep a linearly higher volume of air as they increase speed, but the pressure drop through the engine probably increases via a different multiplier. So what actually gets shoved through the engine may or may not be directly proportional to engine speed. Also, a faster running engine is burning more fuel necessitating more cooling. So even when run at lower speeds the airflow is probably more than adequate. In fact, I can see a possibility that the engine might actually over cool at lower speeds. Running at low engine speeds and high loads promotes lugging which can cause a host of internal problems related to incomplete burning of fuel. Power output will be linear over some ranges of speed, but often drops off faster at lower engine speeds. If you're mowing at half throttle with a ten hp engine and hit a tough spot, engine speed will drop and available power may drop precipitously. If uou have max power available and bit a tough spot, you might be on a more gentle slope of the power curve and be able to make it through. I think it's beneficial to match engine speed to the load applied. Mowing is incredibly power intensive, blading snow isn't. On a gear drive tractor it's fine to slow down a bit for lighter loads. Not so on a hydro. Run full blast if you're loading it up. And it's not really a cooling issue. The power transmitted through the transmission is proportional to the product of flow rate and pressure. If you decease the flow rate and demand lots of power transfer, the pressures must increase. Running at max pressure is tough on the equipment. Back to the engine...a shaft spinning in a journal bearing with an oil film actually develops pressure that separates the metal parts from touching. It's a hydrostatic bearing. That pressure is a function of speed. I don't know when it happens, but allowing the speed to drop when significantly loaded can promote the film pressure from doing what it's supposed to do. This is why oil viscosity is such a big deal. Or so I think. For what it's worth, I run my engines at less than full throttle unless mowing, tilling, or blowing snow. If pulling a heavy load with a hydro, it's full throttle. Otherwise I match speed to whatever I'm doing. On our older equipment we're mostly dealing with overbuilt, low precision stuff. I believe newer stuff manufactured with modern technology to tighter tolerances is less forgiving to improper use. There is certainly some logic to the thought an engine will only last for some designed number of revolutions. Makes sense. But as load on the engines vary, so do the loads inside the engine. You can bet if you run your engine at full rated load it's not going to last the same number of hours it would if treated more lightly regardless of speed. All opinion. Take it for what it's worth. Steve

I have been known for my dislike for Chevy's, but this is the coolest thing I've seen, and.... wish I had it

For the 3rd year in a row it has rained on the Saturday of the show. This year it rained enough to move the garden tractor pulling event later than I could stay because I'm on call at work. I have yet to see this event Maybe next year. Too bad too. I got glimp's of some nice modified pullers including Horses! Not many Horses on the grounds this year though. The few I saw were mangled and butchered up. Still a great show with a huge flea market I took some video's from a tram to try to capture some scope of the show size. Mini Moline was the feature this year. I have a soft spot for them. A few folks from Illinois stopped by A new bike for Brrly! More pics

Actually it was my mother who used too much oil and killed the poor innocent John Deere. When I asked how much oil she put in it, she said, until it was full!

As we all know, men do not read manuals. The only time they look at them is after something breaks or their wife reads it to them.

That's great. I have great luck with these carburetors. They work first time, every time.

Just make sure they originate from a US seller before you commit to your purchase.

You've got it looking good, I like fresh red paint on old Wheel Horses. Makes people take a double take when they ride by and see these 40 and 50 year old Horses still at work.

Really going to miss you but understand,you defintley will be missed,,Deb & I are praying for you..Tim,Derek & I will for sure make a time to come down for a Wheel Horse BS session soon...you take care...Mike

Hey I'm impressed that a couple of Michigan fans could spell Ohio State right Good luck with your new endeavor

I work in a automotive parts store and this old guy senior citizen has been talking to me for 2 weeks about a riding mower he's working on for a friend. It's an MTD something. It won't start. I gave him all kinds of suggestions of things to look for. And he had other people helping him. I told him you need power from the battery to key to safety switches to solenoid. He said he had the seat switch zip tied down. Told him that only cuts off the fuel ... nothing to do with cranking. The other day he was on his way to get an ignition switch... I told him I doubt if that's the problem. He put a solenoid on it with the same results. It would start jumping to the starter. I said sit on the seat, foot on brake, PTO disengaged. He stopped in this afternoon ... "Nobody can figure it out". I said "NOBODY?". Well, after supper I went over ... checked for power starting at the battery. And that's another story. No power thru the PTO switch. WHY? IT WAS ENGAGED! Decal on dash was rusted off. OK... now the starter wants to turn, but like a dead battery. He had a car battery connected to the tractor with 18ga jumpers. I moved the battery around on the fender and got the cables attached. He put his foot on the brake, turned the key and VROOOM! Another MTD still running. 15 minutes diagnosis, 2 second repair... engage brain ... disengage PTO.

Everyone is aware of the bad rap Techys fuel delivery systems have... so, just wanted to give everybody a heads up to the brand new, $27 (gotta be)off shore manufactured carbs now being offered on Ebay. I took a chance, popped for one and I gotta say how great my little HH-60 is running now. These carbs are well made, and fully adjustable too, but no need, that thing purred like a kitten straight out of the box. Plus, they got them priced so cheap now...it's not even worth messing around rebuilding, then tuning one anymore. Seems there may be no excuse for a poorly running Techy with carb issues anymore.

Yep. Switch them all the time to spread the wear around. Also switch for different HP requirements.

For the light duty stuff, might maybe give this one a go.

Sooooo..... What's the best oil to use? LOL

Thanks Kerry..... I Think ~Duke

Thanks Bob Thanks Craig WoW Geno Thanks that's some pretty shoes to fill around here! Jim we got three HUGE 4'X6' Mirrors a couple weeks ago at a Garage Sale, That is in the plans, after we cut um up. Funny how great minds think alike not me I mean you and MJ!

Hey guys I did get the new carb & it worked out real good after making some mods to it, but once on, it fire right up & now the old HH100 actually idles without the choke on...

I agree with Trouty56 that opinions & individul experiences will vary on this subject or any other for that matter. I also realize this thread originally referred to a single cylinder engine. All that being said, I will stray slightly for my example. Of all the kt twins out there with a dead rear hole, how many got that way from excessive cooling or lubrication volume (not pressure)?

Oh well, in that case... by all means... just go get it.

Mike, the lawn was cut with just an ordinary hand self propelled mower , this part of my yard is a bit small for a ride on so I do this by hand. The sign Is a mosaic I made from old broken tiles that I had left over from work.

This is going to be another tough week of picks...its really young in the year and a few teams haven't really stretched their legs yet..I really like to looks of VT over OSU. The VT defense id crazy hard to get a handle on and OSU has such a young offense...Its tough to be up top...theres only one way to go.....DOWN!!! I'm either gonna look like a king or a pawn after these pics. Penn State Nittany LIONS!!!!, Purdue, Rutgers, Nebraska, Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, Maryland, Minnesota, Northwestern, Oregon, Notre Dame and pulling up the rear with the upset is Virginia Tech Hokies over the Buckeyes in a close one

Neil ,, kind of soothing, calming effect, great picture shots !

Gorgeous pics with an equally beautiful background. But I gotta ask.....what did you mow with that gave you those nice lawn stripes? Mike...........

Too good to scrap .... so .... RAT ROD IT! 12.5 Kohler. 7" longer, 7" lower.

It's kinda cool but I wouldn't have much use for it. Of course that doesn't mean I wouldn't buy it! Just shoot me now.

My hydros get run at WOT to keep them cool . They tend to groan at anything less especially with my huge hill yard. That being said my 520h I run at 3000 to 3100. Seems to be just enough to keep the hydro quiet and the grass flying. Runs fine and takes no oil. Does not smoke either. Motor is approaching 1150 hours. Oil change every 25 hours and filter change every 50 hours. Gear drive tractors I just use as tugs around the yard. Pulling trailers, logs, etc..... They get run usually at half throttle. I usually only go small distances and if I am pulling hard enough to hear the motor lug, I might give a little more throttle. That's just me though. I look at it as , generally a motor has an average running temperature at said RPM with no load. If a load is added at a low RPM greater than the hp being made at said RPM , heat will rise. So a higher RPM is needed to force more air over the cylinder and produce more HP to lessen the load given. Also , I believe in the theory of bearing surfaces in the motor are only going to spin so many times before wear tolerances are met due to heat and friction. So if its a Hydro, you will be catering to its needs and WOT will be needed for pump pressure and cooling. Gear drive you have some flex to your RPM's. I say just give what your motor is asking for. I am by no means saying just idle around the yard all day either. Its good to open them up ,burn off carbon and not lug them like a diesel. Look at generators. Many of the generators where govern to run 2800 RPMs. Less fuel consumption , noise , wear , etc..... But how can they do that , its not 3600 RPMs !!! Well the motor was chosen by its HP rating at said RPM and was matched to the max generator load. Which goes right along with the way I treat my garden tractors. Some had larger cooling fins on the flywheel , but that was a double edge sword. To move more Air meant more HP= less for electricity. Most have standard flywheels. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! lol

Bob, your design would really look cool on a mirror. Etched mirrors really have a nice look.

Only 1 place that I am aware of where you can get a sunburn while snowblowing....... COLORADO!!!!! Sure wish we had some members from there. They could show us some great videos of snow removal........ One it day it may be 10 degress and blowing snow... The next day, sunny and warm, in the 60's...... Crazy weather in Colorad.. Rob

I do too. I am leaving it that way. Not feeling the seat though.

Now I feel really left out! With all the Hawkeye logo stuff I seen laying around (Wah,wah,wah). Looks like MJ has found a new hobby, just as long as she can keep you at bay!

Jasen, don't be surprised if you get differing opinions. I respect them all. For mowing and I run them wide open. For pulling a trailer or just driving from point A to point B, I run about 3/4 throttle or a little higher.

Sorry to hear that Nick. I am lucky my eyes are bad enough that I must wear my glasses to see. Many years ago I was removing a small trigger fuse from a racked out breaker for a 1000 H P motor and accidently shorted it to ground. Turns out it was a poor design, and even though the breaker was totally racked out, the trigger fuse block was still connected to the main buss. Luckily I was insulated correctly and did not receive a shock, but the heat and flash from the resulting explosion rendered me unconscious while melting the frames of my safety glasses, burning all the hair from my head and face and sun burning my face and eyes. When I woke up about 5 minutes later, I was blind in both eyes except for a pinpoint of light. The flash was so bright, it had welded the iris closed in both eyes. It took about 1 hour for the iris to open. I had no permanent injuries due to having my glasses in position instead of up on my forehead where I see so many safety glasses. Sorry for the long story. but if one person keeps em on. It was worth It.

Having worked in a machine shop (now retired and haven't a shop available) set up is always the killer of low cost. Do we want to see if we have a machinist willing to do a bunch of modifications. Then we can find members with a need and willing to send a bunch of parts to modify at once?

Probably the best way to go. I have seen countless posts here about guys rebuilding their old techumseh carb and having it still not run right after its re-installed. Mike..........