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Labor day weekend is usually the time that I start to slowly transition the shed from summer contents to fall. Getting the Cyclone Rake prepped for the coming leaves is the big thing. Oil change, spark plug, drain the tank and add fresh e-free gas. Since I have a new tractor to pull it with this year, I have to install the hitch and custom boot. The grandkids wading pools go to the rafters and the snow shovels come down. The last of this years mulch pile gets spread around the fragile plants, and then, in about 30 minutes from now, my daughter and son-in-law are meeting the wife and me and it's off to the Cheesecake Factory for dinner.

Just got my snow machine finished yesterday. This is the 520 junker I started on last March. Bring it on Ole man winter, I'll be warm and dry.

well my burban has been sitting for awile now so i had to put my girl for some work today and to give her some fresh air.. Ill bought a new sweeper Agrifab 44 inch that i had to test so the burban might going to be a sweeper puller.. light and nice work for a old lady... a video of the burban whit the sweeper Lars

Well i have not posted pict of the load of implements i got erly this summer.. but i got some really nice but rusty stuff... i got this winch that has been on a 1054 and it is bought as a wheel horse implement on this side of the pond.. not sure it you guys have something like this on your side of the pond.. when ill got it it was rusty etc etc since it had been sitting in the woods for about 10 years.. covered whit some steel/roof.. i have had it apart and went thru all bearings and chains in it, And i have fab up a new bracket so it now fits on the quickattach.. and gave it a new coat of paint.. so here you have some pict of it.. Time to get some paint on it So im almost done whit it.. just need to fab up a belt pulley on it since that one was gone when ill got it.. and some small more parts to paint and it is ready to be used!!! Lars

Happy Birthday Megan. 17 years old today. While ill the entire time, at least you got to make it to the Wheel Horse Show again this year. Unfortunately the WHCC 2015 show won't happen for this clan, this 17 year old will be celebrating her High School Graduation that same weekend. Megan!

Saturday...college football and grilling Sunday...college football (taped games from Sat) and grilling Monday...any college football games I have not seen yet, fishing if I have seen them all and grilling. I did the horse mowing lawns on Thursday so I could do the above all weekend. I know it sounds boring, but I have been at tractor shows the last 2 weekends...nice to spend a weekend at home. GO ILLINOIS AND BIG TEN

I don't know what seal you have there, but the SKF brand axle and brake shaft seals that I have been using have a spring on the inside. If you see a spring, that goes in.

Cool nights and leaves turning. Started me thinking. I wanted the weights out of the shed and Elvis needed something to do, so I made a place in the garage to store them and moved them while the gettin's good!

I'm in agreement with Squonk on this one as well. I know that you would think that oil would keep the shaft and hub wet and "lubricated" making it easier to get off even preventing rust but the flip side to that coin is all the dirt and grit it attracts and grinds into the small tolerances between the two and packs it tight over time.

I don't use my Wheel Horses to make a living, but lately I'm thinking I make a living just to buy more Wheel Horses

Happy to say they are never big enough! So many Wheel Horses, so little time Seriously this year I built a 12x16 to put them all in so they would not be in the shop, and in the pole barn, and in the car port. Uhhh, not big enough. Now they are in the 12x16, the shop, the pole barn, and the car port.

Chances are... you'll find me and the Mrs Rules just kayaking the Hudson again.

Trouty, no reference to you was ever intended. I enjoy your input here on RS. You are definitely not a Trunk Monkey. A Trout Monkey, maybe.. Sorry you don't get my lunacy. I could explain it all to you but neither of us will live long enough to finish the conversation. As a practice, just take me with a grain of salt.

I would take a look at the rubber seal. If it is straight, it will not matter. If it is angled, I would put the angle toward the inside. Can't tell in the pictures. On my boat trailers, the numbers are out.

Don't get ahead of yourself. The engine may decide to reject it much like a mis-match organ transplant. It could just be a matter of time.

Hey Trouty...I am pretty sure the Trunk Monkey was not posted with you in mind. Just sayin'

OK I am late and will have to take the early games as losses. Thank you Steve for reminding me. I will take the B10 in all of todays games. I would like all the B10 teams to win this week but cant help wanting Appalachian St. to have a good game. I think this is a michagan team that is well past that happening but.. And as always GO BUCKEYES

As long as the're not the kind Wile E Coyote uses!

Check list for today's game: Wings and drummies Taco dip and chips Bacon wrapped onion rings Bacon wrapped asparagus Beer Frozen Mudslides We're ready

Tons of force Mark. I'm thinkin' maybe a little anti-seize in there... wouldn't be a bad idea before putting them back on the axle?

Geno, You are giving Craig a run for his money, keep it up! :lol:

Craig, Exactly the same as the hubs I pulled last week. The hubs had slid in, they had gradually burred the keyways. So when they were pulled the clean bit of hub had to be pulled over the burr, it takes tons of force to get them free!

Geno, all the posts that you make here on Redsquare are valued and your enthusiaam is to be admired. You mention earlier about your OCD , would you consider doing a thread on this subject & how it effects your day to day goings on . I am sure we can all associate with this in some sort of way or another , I know I do .

Craig- but all and all that two hub method with bolts and nuts tightened works! PB Blaster helps if you turn axle (or can) and take out set screw/bolt on hub you are trying to remove and add a little over an hour or more. Those axles and hubs don't get removed very many times in their life. It is like trying to take your wedding ring off! It takes a while!

Supposedly, keeps the tank/ removal process much cleaner...

I do not have an answer, but i have several times been surprised how even after it starst to move it fights all the way off. Most gears/bearing etc. once they pop free come off easily....not so hubs.

your looks like a new one. here one that wont be getting done anytime soon.

Well managed a few hours today and am pretty pleased Pulleys came straight off Shaft is 1" and keyway is identical too, so a straight swap Just four new holes and a Briggs 8 hp drops straight in, even the old tecumseh exhaust fits. Despite the engines being different sizes and makes. Just a small mod to the heat shield to stop it fouling the hood. Started first time And back in action...

GENO, when I first got on Red Square, I had some knowledge of engines (working in a "service station") back in the 60's. My Dad had these tractors and they had been sitting for about 20 years. When he passed, I decided to try to get them running again. I found Red Square and the good people on here, they helped me with whatever I needed...manuals, advice. I started going to shows to meet these guys, get parts and see what the love was all about. I have been going to the shows now for about 5 years all over the Midwest and the north east and have met very many of the members that are active on this site. What a ride!! One day I had to rebuild the trans in my 702...1533 bearing was shot. I found a place in transmissions where I started rebuilding them with videos...no one had done that before...and I was suddenly able to help and give back. I really feel like I am part of this site now. I still ask questions (I do not know everything), but there is no feeling like walking someone through rebuilding a transmission and saving a horse with someone who normally would have not even thought of opening one. I have truly been blessed here and I know it. Never feel like not posting in a thread if you have something to offer. It could be a question, that makes everyone think...it could be a thought that has not been presented...it could be the answer that the original guy was looking for...and you could get your "hooby dooby" stepped on also. Mine is pretty flat now. The nice thing about this site is, we all learn together and most are tolerant and willing to share what they have learned. Don't worry about your post count...it really does not mean much. Go to a couple of shows and meet some of the members...listen to what they have to say...that is what is important...the rest will come naturally. Welcome Aboard Mate.

I'm going to get started on this today...one year later. Started tearing it down this afternoon. This is how far I got.

Geno, we should also caution you about another site phenomenon that occasionally appears around here. It's the Redsquare "Trunk Monkey". You know the type. You offer someone some good sound advice and along comes the "Trunk Monkey" who thinks he knows everything and is smarter than everyone else and starts bashing the crap out of your opinion. Usually it's some "flash in the pan" who is actually pretty smart but gets in over their head by making a bunch promises they can't keep and leaves a lot of unfinished business hanging out there in limbo. You know, the guys that take in everything they can read and then consider themselves to be some self taught Guru on everything from soup to nuts. So now you deliberately go search a thread to find an answer to a problem that's troubling you and, you guessed it, nothing has been done for the last two years to complete the thread. "LIMBO" There may be an answer to the avoiding the "Trunk Monkey" , that being the installation of the "Trunk Monkey Recall Button" pictured below.. which is explained here.. Please continue sharing your information with us though. We all truly are enjoying your posts and I in particular look forward to hearing much more from you. I don't even care what color your beard is. Shucks, I hope this post isn't trivial..

I'm right there with you about the John Deere. I have a nice 140h3. Its very clean and original. Too bad every time I walk past it sitting under a cover in the shop I ask myself "Why did I buy this stupid thing?"

I bought a 1045 last winter that has a seal leaking between the transmission case halves. I have a new seal and need to split the case to replace it. I have read some of the threads about splitting the case, and have a couple of questions: 1) When I split the case, which half contains the gears and should be left alone and which half (drive or brake pulley side) can I remove without disturbing any of the gears? 2) Does the shifter need to be removed for this? 3) If I take the wheel and hub off the axles, will the case slide off over the axles without removing the axles? Thanks in advance for your help.

Nahhh, He went to the next door neighbors and plowed HIS yard!

Man that thing is a beauty! Thanks for the pics!

Ok...but, at this rate... you're gonna need a telephoto lens to get it.

Well, I have been working on this 520 since March 2014, and I think I have it finished ready for the snow. It was a tractor that was given to me to take along to the Big Show and try to get a couple hundred bucks for which the PO said he would split with me. After tinkering with it for a few days and getting it running, I knew I wanted it for the hyd lift to make a snow machine, so I bought it from him for the $200. I need to thank everyone that helped to walk me through all the problems ... especially Martin. It wouldn't be here without your help. In addition to all the wiring repairs, carb cleaning, R/R replacement, I have vented the belt guard to cool the back cylinder and made a housing to catch the heat and route it into the cab that I picked up at the Big Show this spring. Thanks to Mrs. K for her alterations to the canvas to fit the heat houser. Added fused aux. power strip for cab lights Also added a foot control so one hand is free to operate the hydro lift. Loaded the tires and added double Vee bar chains. I raised the fender/seat pan 2" and moved the foot rests forward 2" to get more room for Me and the tire chains. Just picked up the tall chute this week. Made a hand crank for the chute control, but will add a motorized chute later. Need to add some mirrors inside the cab as my neck movement, due to arthritis is limited to about +/- 10 degrees. And last but really important, I added a red holder for my coffee mug. again for all the help and for looking.

Just wanted to give a big thank you to member Bert for hooking me up with a spare hydro. Happy to report tractor is moving under its own power again:)

Bitten...welcome to the party...we are all going to RacinBob's today to watch the games. I'll tell you what...I'll just give you the 2 losses for Thursday's games. Everyone picked Michigan St. to win yesterday and I know you would have also. I don't think anyone would argue with that.. RacinBob.. sweet corn (steamed in the husk) and pork chops on the grill...homemade, re fried bean dip, salsa, nacho cheese dip and nacho chips...home made Margarita's. Kick off in less then 1 hour.

The other variable in the equation is that not all tires that are supposed to be the same size are. That is to say, a 23x10.5x12 from one manufacturer, will differ in actual size from another manufacturer. Same with the chains!

So, are we all invited to the graduation party?

Mike, I agree with Rob. Pull the hub off and check the key. Also, make sure that you can run the bolt further in than normal while you have the hub off. John

A few more pictures. The omen has no issues that I could see or hear. I put about 15 hours on it. It needed about 2 ounces of oil. I'm hoping to only adjust the valves. 666=520

Happy Birthday Megan. Hope it's the best one ever. Karl , I bet she gets her good looks from her mom.

Sounds like the main concern you have is a hot coil not wiring issues. There are three main types of coils that find their way into the points based tractors, 1. THE CORRECT COIL = this coil has a"internal resistor" within the coil body that restricts the amount of current that flows thru the points and coil combo. The internal primary resistance of this type coil can be measured with an multimeter at about 3 - 4 ohms. If 12 volts powers a 4 ohm resistance, 3 amps flows and that equates to about 36 watts of power - warm but not hot. 2. INCORRECT COIL - REQUIRES EXTERNAL RESISTOR - this look alike is visually identical to the correct coil but its internal wiriing can overheat if an "external resistor" is not used in series with the coil. The primary resistance of this coil will be in the 1 - 2 ohm range. The external resistor accounts for another 2 ohms. Properly configured, this combo is the equivalent of the 4 ohm internal resistor coil discussed above. If this coil is used alone, the electrical system will see the lower resistance and double the current flowing thru the coil and points. The result is over-heating the coil and premature erroding away the point's contacts. 12 volts powering a 1.5 ohm circuit equals 8 amps of current flowing and generating nearly 100 watts of heat and energy. We are now seeing the coil get hot. 3. ELECTRONIC IGNITION COILS - these are the high energy bad boys of the ignition world and demand gigantic gulps of current to operate as intended. They will fry points within minutes. The primary resistance of this style coil is usually well under 1 ohm and current draw can be near 20 amps. These coils are fine if you drive them with electronic ignition modules. They will fry GT wiring very quicky. 20 amps of current flowing thru this circuit generates over 200 watts of power. Wires melt, points vaporize. Measure your prmary ignition coil resistance. Anything less than 3 ohms and you have either a shorted coil or an incorrect coil on the tractor. A correct coil should be labeled "12 volts" . If you see "external resistor required" on the coil or the coil looks like it came out of a spaceship, you have the wrong coil.

Yep, I'm in Steve...bringing my trailer too.

For the sake of clarity, electrolysis is not defined as the process of derusting or cleaning metal. A similar mistake would be defining driving your car behind a gravel truck as a "paint striping process", although that would be one result of such an activity. The fact rusty iron "derusts" when used as a cathode material is just a happy consequence of using rusty iron as the interface material in the electrolysis bath. In backyard mechanics terms, the electrolysis process steals "extra" oxygen from "rust" so the rust no longer has an overabundance of oxygen which can be used to combine with additional iron to form additional rust. Clean iron electrodes will still allow electrolysis to occur. Any energy applied to the anode / cathode elements in the bath with a voltage applied in excess of 1 - 2 volts DC will break apart the oxygen / hydrogen bonds in the water bath the electrodes are in contact with.Try hooking a 1.5 volt AA cell up to a small electrolysis setup - you will see voltages at this level support the process, albeit much slower than a 12 volt battery charger. Aluminum can be used as an electrode but will suffer much faster "erosion" than iron. The fact the surface of the aluminum is being consumed, by default will release any material clinging to the surface of the released aluminum. In backyard terms, yes, the aluminum is being "cleaned". The destruction is not equal across the entire piece of aluminum and coked up areas will clean slower than non coked areas. The cleaning comes at the expense of uneven loss and pitting of the aluminum electrode (your engine head). Electrolysis as paint stripping process? Electrolysis results in derusting at an atomic level, that is why it works as effectively as it does. "Rust" is neutralized in nearly every pock mark, crevice and crack on the surface of the item in the bath. Given that paint is not an insulator at the atomic level, if you have enough patience to allow several days of exposure of your painted part to the electrolysis process, paint film pigment carriers will be broken at their interface with the metal piece and the paint will fall off the part in sheets. The only resistance to lifting the paint film I have encountered is when acid etch primers are used successfully in chemically bonding the primer to the metal surface. If you want to investigate paint stripping by electrolysis, hook up a battery desulfator to the electrolysis bath. The desulfator "kicks" 50+ amp electrical pulses thru the painted object several hundred times per second. Paint doesn't stand a chance against a desulfator treatment. Slow but effective. @ Racinbob - love your spirit of investigating new ways to accomplish things.Don't loose that spirit. @ Farmer Jim - clean your carbon deposits using mechanical methods, Break cleaner and wire brush. If break cleaner doesn't work, then try brake cleaner. Cleaning coke from heads is not a beauty contest.

I'll see what I can do the hardest part will be remembering to take one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oil capacity is 1 quart. Reminder: Check with dipstick resting on shoulder of engine block - not screwed in.