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The horse I put together by mixing parts from a 518h and 520hc has become a favorite of mine sense completion. now thanks to my sweetheart it has custom decails She contacted vinylguy and he did an excellent job on them!!!! great surprise, very nice quality, thanks to you both

Here's what the question is about by the way..... Ad is asking $500 If I read the ad right, I'd say that's priced pretty well. An RJ-58, with engine has a SPR-42 snow blade and a PP-8 plow with it, and there's two of something... ad says "one for parts and one complete". Seems like a good buy to me. I'd imagine there's already someone on the way to look at it/buy it.

GENO...don't stop posting...you are doing fine and I for one have been enjoying your contribution. Just so you know...there is an ignore function here on Red Square...I use it on a couple of guys and it works great.

being from kentucky gives you the right to be chatty, i know when i'm drinking bourbon i can't shut up!

GENO, when I first got on Red Square, I had some knowledge of engines (working in a "service station") back in the 60's. My Dad had these tractors and they had been sitting for about 20 years. When he passed, I decided to try to get them running again. I found Red Square and the good people on here, they helped me with whatever I needed...manuals, advice. I started going to shows to meet these guys, get parts and see what the love was all about. I have been going to the shows now for about 5 years all over the Midwest and the north east and have met very many of the members that are active on this site. What a ride!! One day I had to rebuild the trans in my 702...1533 bearing was shot. I found a place in transmissions where I started rebuilding them with videos...no one had done that before...and I was suddenly able to help and give back. I really feel like I am part of this site now. I still ask questions (I do not know everything), but there is no feeling like walking someone through rebuilding a transmission and saving a horse with someone who normally would have not even thought of opening one. I have truly been blessed here and I know it. Never feel like not posting in a thread if you have something to offer. It could be a question, that makes everyone think...it could be a thought that has not been presented...it could be the answer that the original guy was looking for...and you could get your "hooby dooby" stepped on also. Mine is pretty flat now. The nice thing about this site is, we all learn together and most are tolerant and willing to share what they have learned. Don't worry about your post count...it really does not mean much. Go to a couple of shows and meet some of the members...listen to what they have to say...that is what is important...the rest will come naturally. Welcome Aboard Mate.

Nah Geno you're fine. It's refreshing to see some new enthusiasm around here. The old enthusiasm was getting kinda boring.

I second what Jim said. Wait till winter rolls around and the forum activity slows to a crawl . Then we'll really need more of that enthusiasm!

This is a forum. Taking is what it's all about. Keep 'em coming.

Happy Birthday Megan. 17 years old today. While ill the entire time, at least you got to make it to the Wheel Horse Show again this year. Unfortunately the WHCC 2015 show won't happen for this clan, this 17 year old will be celebrating her High School Graduation that same weekend. Megan!

How about thoughts on what's inside. Pulled the head off last weekend. Pictured is what I found. Worth saving? or too badly damaged As I mentioned in previous post, flywheel turns freely, piston /valves go up and down - that doesn't mean much but it's something. What are the determining factors in deciding whether to fish or cut bait? I have no experience rebuilding an engine but I'm game if nothing else More pics required of bottom of engine, piston, crank? Also drained the oil - was pleasantly surprised to find at least 1/2 quart.

You know? I'm thinkin' what the Squonk says is making scents here... I thought it was weird that the back of the woodruff key(closest to the trans)was curling up, out of it's channel... as the hub was backing off it. Upon closer inspection, I can see a ball of grit in there that was pushing it up against the hub. I think if you look inside of the hub...the pict tells the whole story here. Also, interesting how wet the axle is vs. the dry appearance of the hub bore.

I do not have an answer, but i have several times been surprised how even after it starst to move it fights all the way off. Most gears/bearing etc. once they pop free come off easily....not so hubs.

heres the only pic i have and it was after the battle was won....... i did mine on the floor of the garage, trans apart from the frame as well, but it wasn't sitting on the tire though. now that would have been a challenge in itself.....

So that's why I haven't heard from you!!!!!

More seat time!

Welcome to the Site Geno I've been off a couple months so you haven't bothered me.. Oh and Chuck, I thought I would mention you misspelled develop.

Is a gorgeous ... can't wait to see it's new bling installed.

My decks all leave a strip in the turns. I just do a couple end run passes to clean it up when I'm finished.

I have always wanted a John Deere 110 round fender. Some of you know that earlier this year, in a matter of weeks I bought two 1965, 110 round fenders. After looking both tractors over and driving them for a bit I decided that I really didn't care for the mechanicals of the John Deere. I also didn't like how the engine was placed inside the engine compartment and frame. I do however like their color combination, variable speed and styling. In the past month I've been approached by four different people to purchase their Wheelhorse tractor's. I purchased two of them but I decided I didn't need anymore in my heard because I already had eight or nine Wheel Horse plus the two John Deere. Even with a new barn I still only have so much time, space and money. Well I finally decided that I'm a Wheelhorse guy through and through (although I'm still looking for a nice Farmall Cub) and sold both John Deere tractors yesterday. Now I have the space and the money to pick up the rest of those tractors that were offered to me. So today I applied to get my Wheel a Horse Man Card back. A idea how long that will take? :-)

Didn't have a puller on hand, so I decided to give the old "use another hub" method a try today. Ended up cranking on it a for good twenty minutes, and sweating like a stuck pig, to ultimately get it to pull off. While it's no surprise to see it soaked in oil, as the leaky axle seal was the whole reason I wanted it removed in the first place... I am surprised at the amount of effort it took, using a cheater on my 1/2" drive, this thing fought to the bitter end... well past the key way to the very end of the axle. So, I'm wondering, is it normal, for the old accumulated oil to act like some kind of super adhesive glue in there, or could something else going on in there that I'm not aware of...using a woodruff key too big, or the key way wollowed out, maybe?

I'd like to see video of this baby in action!

I would not recommend beating on a hub,in or out,the retainer ring inside wont take much,i too have had hubs hold on till the end,so I made this homemade puller because I didn't have a spare hub,its a piece of 3/8 angle iron,and a 3/4 inch bolt and nut,welded the nut to it,drilled five holes that line up to the hub,tighten her up and put the torque to her,once it breake free I use the air gun the bolt is on backwards in the pic

Quite a puller you have there, very nice.

I pull big pump impellers of shafts all the time.it doesn't take much grit to get in between the shaft and hub to lock things up tight. You would be surprised how much can get in between a shaft and hub even with a close tolerance. I've had to "save" $2000 brass impellers from being destroyed pulling them off. Like I said clean the hub bore good. You might find some small grooves worn into the bores from grit holding them on. If rust and gunk gets under the key it will swell and raise the key up out of it's groove

Craig, i think what you experienced is par for the course with hubs that are tight on the axle and haven't been removed very much if at all through their life. better that way than loose on the axle..... the last one i did was for the 416 8 speed i just finished. i used much the same method as you (but with the later thicker hubs) and both sides fought me all the way for quite a few hours. i used mild heat, lots of pb blaster in both sides and through the set screw holes and slowly did it. every time i would get that hub loaded up with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn it would eventually move with a loud crack. it was slow going, but they finally came off in one piece and once the axle and hub were cleaned up and new keys installed, i had the two sweetest hub/axle combos in my collection.......

I agree with Geno we all price stuff a little higher then we are willing to take so offer him a little less !

I'm surprised with all that oil on there it fought you that hard. I had to remove a hub on Ezra and shattered one of my super whoopie pullers. That whimpy 1/2 ratchet won't last too long like that. I use a bearing separator behind the hub now and a big honkin gear puller from work to grab the separator and a impact gun to turn the screw. Takes 2 people to hold the puller in place until the screw gets tight but the hub comes off. Clean it all up good. It's possible that hub was removed before and the inside was burred up a bit from that. Get a little flap wheel on a shaft that will fit into a drill and clean up the hub bore. It may also have been rusty and "swollen up" before all that oil leaked out. P.S. Those hubs are real fun when the trans is not on a tractor to hold it in place!

Now that's a Wheel Horse man blade!

Go to search and type in PTO Friction Disc....lots of goooooood info there....think you will like it~!

OK .. now I get it, Morgans are tough little horses.

The tip on the Harbor Freight HVLP gun is 1.4. That is what I use. And just a note about Majic paint from TSC. If Majic was the only paint available to me, I would let my tractor run naked. I have tried the stuff, and if you think Rustoleum dries slow, Majic is slower yet. I painted the engine block on my 857 with Majic just to keep it from rusting over the winter, and more than 30 days later, I picked it up to move it and my hands were covered with red paint. I stripped it all off and repainted with the PPG acrylic.

I see the idea behind that.....but I will stick to the application....hydraulic application = hydraulic filter......

The tips do mean everything. If you use a small tip for primer you will have big problems, it will actually try to dry before it hits the metal and not adhere. I've been painting for 37 years. Better get your gun in order before you do anything. Until you get the hang of what paint, primer, clear, etc should look like by the way it runs off of your mixing stick you should use a chart and mixing (measuring) cups.

And if you have the meter out and are measuring your coil, give the secondary winding a quick check also.

Sounds like the main concern you have is a hot coil not wiring issues. There are three main types of coils that find their way into the points based tractors, 1. THE CORRECT COIL = this coil has a"internal resistor" within the coil body that restricts the amount of current that flows thru the points and coil combo. The internal primary resistance of this type coil can be measured with an multimeter at about 3 - 4 ohms. If 12 volts powers a 4 ohm resistance, 3 amps flows and that equates to about 36 watts of power - warm but not hot. 2. INCORRECT COIL - REQUIRES EXTERNAL RESISTOR - this look alike is visually identical to the correct coil but its internal wiriing can overheat if an "external resistor" is not used in series with the coil. The primary resistance of this coil will be in the 1 - 2 ohm range. The external resistor accounts for another 2 ohms. Properly configured, this combo is the equivalent of the 4 ohm internal resistor coil discussed above. If this coil is used alone, the electrical system will see the lower resistance and double the current flowing thru the coil and points. The result is over-heating the coil and premature erroding away the point's contacts. 12 volts powering a 1.5 ohm circuit equals 8 amps of current flowing and generating nearly 100 watts of heat and energy. We are now seeing the coil get hot. 3. ELECTRONIC IGNITION COILS - these are the high energy bad boys of the ignition world and demand gigantic gulps of current to operate as intended. They will fry points within minutes. The primary resistance of this style coil is usually well under 1 ohm and current draw can be near 20 amps. These coils are fine if you drive them with electronic ignition modules. They will fry GT wiring very quicky. 20 amps of current flowing thru this circuit generates over 200 watts of power. Wires melt, points vaporize. Measure your prmary ignition coil resistance. Anything less than 3 ohms and you have either a shorted coil or an incorrect coil on the tractor. A correct coil should be labeled "12 volts" . If you see "external resistor required" on the coil or the coil looks like it came out of a spaceship, you have the wrong coil.

Yep, I'm in Steve...bringing my trailer too.

Thanks for the info , I'll be careful !

As ".Mickey Gilley" says.. "talk to me"! Lol!

Need I say more

I do a lot of that, Racin'Bob. And it isn't just one deck. My 42" RD deck does it bad. Both my 42" SD and my 48" SD deck do this. The only deck that has minimum missed strips on turns is my 37" SD deck. I just love that little deck. It and the 48" deck give me the best cuts. All the decks are tuned, sharp and in good mechanical order.

Just another Update... The C-105 I brought home last night had a slight electrical issue.. Got that knocked out a she runs like a !!

And here we go again! Haha! The cherry peppers are doing unbelievable this year! Looks like I may one if not two good picks left! I love it!! :-)

Should be available anywhere good hardware is sold.

Yes...it's Napa 1410. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Transmission-Oil-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL1410_0303851348

The HD spindle kit that was offered had the Spindles in it and rims. The kit was to be used on a standard front axel. The spindles are 3/4. They are basicaly like the standard spindle except they have a brace welded on the bend to help keep it from flexing. They are just a tad longer because the rim is just a little wider to accept bigger bearings.

Well... technically... it's Mayo One... The Mayo Clinic's helicopter ambulances. They fly in every year on Saturday afternoon. Here's a different shot from a few years ago. one year they had just landed and had to fly again to respond to a crash.... they're pretty much always in the air around here.

Ah... I always figured those to be like a type code. Never seen anything published on those. Tecumseh used them for parts list revisions.... could be like that?

Steve, not 2 pages of all BS. I was quite serious when I said I get to pick my favorite team next week. Michigan will actually be playing their first real 'game'.

Two will do it as long as there aren't any other colors then red in there.