Leaderboard

We challenged my daughter to read a bunch of books over the summer and told her if she did that we'd take her to Chicago to the museums. She made it, so we made the drive up there this weekend to visit the Field Museum and Musuem of Science and Industry. She really wanted to see Sue, the T-Rex on display at the Field Musuem: But there was one heck of a surprise in store for us. Now, Chicago is a big place with millions of people so I didn't expect to run into anyone we knew. Let alone someone from this forum... None other than Stevasuarus from Elgin was there! What are the chances?! Steve

Great year again at Pioneer Power... The big show's double features were "Classic Tractors" meaning anything made before 1970, and "Vintage Snowmobiles". I thought the turnout for regular tractors/gas engines was a little weak, perhaps due to no specific brand feature. The snowmobiles however filled the feature building and they had to find space for the overflow in adjacent buildings. I think I heard they were expecting 125, and by Friday morning there were already 160 with more showing up all day. The Wheel Horse turnout was pretty good. I never took an actual count, and we were definitely down a few from other years, but we still had a strong showing. It's been interesting to watch how our presence at the show these last 7 years has begun to really draw out other Garden Tractor exhibitors. There were a few Wheel Horse items on the auction... none of which came home with club members. Not that prices were unreasonable... just no one felt the need to own them. Reportedly the D-250 brough $650. Supposedly ran and drove in (don't they all, right?), didn't start at auction. Lawn Ranger brought short money, but no one was particularly interested in it. Likewise with the little dump cart. A few faces.... Joebob ol550 TerryM (and son Andrew) prondzy (and wife/daughter) and shynon Rest of show pics... good turnout of horses and attachments. A few others mixed in here.

I haven't been good at posting pics of what we bring home but am trying to do better. Usually it's just the loaded trailer shots then we're off to get more. I already posted #1 (dads) this one is #23. Will do more as time allows. This is last Wednesday's find from Georgetown, IN, only about 1 1/2 hours away. We brought home a 417A with original WH cover, 2 extra wheels with lug tires, WH wheel weights, 48" deck, 48" plow, plow hookup on the tractor and an extra new mount, 50" mid mount grader blade, an EZ rake with an extra 3' x 5' leaf cart, a Brinley roller, and some extra parts and belts. This was all one owner and we got the manuals and original tags + such as well. Oh, and don't forget the 2 bottles of wine (last pic). I think we're going to keep this one as the snow blower tractor and put the cab on it we got from Don in MD and the snow blower we got from Glenn in Jersey. We had already restored the rear wheels before we took the pics.

Sometimes you draw the worst conclusions in your mind, then, when everything works out in your favor, you wonder why you got so worked up. Glad you found out that an honest mistake was acknowledged and corrected, plus you got to see the personal side of their business.

Are you sure the pin has not sheared and the holes are no longer aligned. On the Raider clutch I just repaired, I could see some movement between the shaft and lever when I applied torque, so I knew the pin had sheared even though there was enough friction to operate the clutch. So I had to tap the shaft out, then remove the three pcs of pin. When I put it back together, I added a set screw and a second pin. This placing of the pin near the OD of the shaft increases the shear area and the strength 2-4 X

Just bought a tall chute blower and a snow plow today. Blower is missing the flag and the plow is missing the operating lever. Otherwise excellent condition. $100 for the pair.

Hey I got it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BmEGm-mraE

YO GENE,,,dont worry,,,you will be corrected if wrong. and maybe sent to bed with no dinner. lol Glenn

Yea, he looks a little small to be Steveasaurus. Maybe a Minisaurus.

Just returned from the shop...all is well (I hope) . The folks there couldn't have been nicer and more apologetic. Not sure what the knocking problem is but are going in to find out and fix it. The guys even took me to they're home to see their many tractors and other equipment. They just finished restoring a small john deere , don't know the model, but it was absolutely perfect, and showed me another one that they completed last year, it also was perfect, so I completely trust them to take care of my horse. I'll keep you all posted.

I added wheels to mine - glad I did, has come in handy. After using 2-3 different vacuum systems and not being completely satisfied, I finally got a dedicated blast cabinet vacuum system from Enco, it REALLY works! Like HF Enco often offers % off codes and I grabbed a %20 and free ship, and that eased the cost. I also added a switch to control the vac and light. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=803-0027 Dust --- theres probably gonna be a certain amount of dust, just the nature of the beast. As mentioned, pay careful attention on assy and use caulk or weather stripping on any possible weak areas. For instance, when you open the door there always fallout from build up at the door edge. I have very little leakage on mine, but still, on cleaning the glass and after a cleaning session there will usually be a bit of dust on the glass. I tried using the window protectors and found that with the somewhat cloudy view through them and them further hazing so quickly that I just gave up on them, you also have to have the inside glass very clean or they wont stick. After using the cabinet for as long as I have, I have learned to keep the object being cleaned and the gun positioned to get the best angle away from the glass, if pointed for just a brief time the glass will badly haze. I can usually get quite a good life from a glass. I just buy 3-4 replacement glass at a time and change it out.

Back in December I picked up a WH 876 from a guy who had had moved to NC from NJ. It was used for snow duty up north, but didn't get much use if any down here. Not sure how long it was in the barn, but it was a long time. I plan to use it for mowing duty because my yard has a lot of tight turns. I think the hydro and short frame combo will be fun to mow with. Anyways, after wrapping up some other projects this spring, I started messing with the ol' short frame today. I removed the carb, and was really surprised at how clean it looked! removed the needles, bowl, float, and needle looked great. So I did a quick clean on the float and bowl and put it back together. Next I took the fuel pump off. I knew it was not working when the tractor last ran because the old fuel line had bypassed the fuel pump. What I was not expecting was to see the arm missing from the fuel pump. Not being familiar with these fuel pumps, I am not sure if there are any other parts missing from this side of the pump, I hope they are not inside the engine block.... After taking it apart, I found there to be some corrosion on the inside, but it didn't look too bad. it did seem to have all of the internal parts. Anyways, The next step is to either get a new fuel pump from napa, or try to find a cheap used pump and make a franken-pump. After that I'll change the oil in the engine and hydro and hopefully get 'er crunked up!

Did you have to buy the wine for your wife before she would let you buy another one ! Nice find

Craig, you can buy the good stuff and it will do the job fine and probably last forever if you treat them right. heres something that I've had success with. search for any tool surplus stores nearby. i have one close that the owner buys lots of tools from the local arsenal when they have past there useable life or they retool for some reason. usually there is nothing wrong with most of them and you can pick up some very nice professionally made tooling very cheap. i buy odd taps, reamers, bits etc and have managed to find quite a few punches and drifts for the sort of thing you are having problems with. i also have a nice older craftsman punch set that is still in excellent condition that i have looked after and not abused. the quality of the material the tool is made from is important. sometimes starting to remove a pin like you are doing is better with a shorter punch to jolt it loose and then use a longer one to remove it. the longer thin ones tend to bend or bow when they are beat hard. Jims idea has worked for me in the past too. sometimes you just know after the first blow that it aint going to come out and you need to drill it out of there!!!!!

Well guys, just another update.. Changed the oil, cleaned the spark plug and threw it on the charger. Put alot of elbow grease into it and rebuilt the plow linkage and greased her up nice. And now for the pictures you always want.

Just trying to imagine my reaction... to spending $80, and this happening again.

As mentioned above, I used a kit from TP Tools that supplies you with all the hardware. It came with plans to build the cabinet with plywood. I modified the plans to a larger unit. Cabinet measures 24" high, 30" deep and 60" wide.

We just get too excited sometimes.

Hey... we all do it.

I'll bet that: (1) Your grass is a little high. (Like all of ours is before we mow this year)! (2) Your mowing in 3rd or 2nd gear and not slowing down when you make the turn. Next time you mow, run it fast on the straight stretches but slow it way down on the turn then look at your quality of cut. I'll bet it is much better. These are garden tractors and not specifically designed for just mowing. (Ever notice why your neighbor's Crapsman's mower deck sounds like an airplane propeller)? You can fine tune the deck and make the blades sharp as a knife but if you take turns fast while mowing, it will leave a strip of grass each time.

Carbs can make a big difference on these old tractors, looks nice.

Martin.... that might just be his happy face. We saw a different one later that definitely wasn't!

OK, Yes I have the OEM wheels. Thanks and BTW, What a gorgeous job you have done! Just incredible. Rob

Thanks for the pics, Jason. Looks like another good show.

Oh, sorry Jason, i got distracted there for a minute...... Nice pics on the show, thanks for posting them....... (i know its a tall order, but you could have tried to get him to smile just a little bit...)

And that is why so many of us own them

Theroundhousernr, That is some great info. My little Raider has a 16hp transplant. It's more than enough power. But as with my chopper (I made 7.5" forward controls so I could fit) the little guy is lacking a little in the leg room department. My shin gets abused by the pto engagement lever. I love this little raider, and I love tinkering on it so it's staying. plus the lil woman likes it. I am jsut preping for future purchases. I dont really mind the rareness of a second tractor, I think it'd be fun to have the oddball wheel horses

Better looking than when I saw him in June! Then there is the famous line from Treasure of the Trans Ole' Latte. "Socks! We don't need no stinking socks!!!"

PM sent on the shirts .....

I hear ya! When I was cutting grass I was reminded of when my sister took riding lessons. They always told her not to run back to the barn because that is a bad habit for the horse to have. By the way, I cut the grass with one of the 3 decks you sold me!

Now there's a happy face!!!!!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good James! Hey, now we need a pic of you on the tractor. Lets see what a tall frame driver looks like on a short frame tractor!!!

I believe I will take the chance and try one. I think I can mount it on wheels or a dolly and roll it out of the shop when I use it. I have a large compressor and plenty of air so that should not be a problem. I also have two shop vacs a large one and smaller one so that won't be a problem either. As for the sealing I will either use calk or maybe rubber strips. Do you think rubber insulating strips would work. I have plenty of 20% coupons so I will watch for the next sale. Thanks for your comments.

You set the points first to .020" on the high point of the cam. Then rotate the assembly to get the points to start opening at the specified piston location. A self-powered test light or ohmmeter will show you when they start to open. Garry

...a recent C/L score I made in an effort to be nice to my back from now on.

Well, in short, I cut grass with the 876 today! Earlier this week I got the transmission drained, new filter put on, and the new drive belt installed. I am really pleased with how easy it was to install the drive belt. Gotta love a simple machine! On my first drive, I was surpised with the lack of power that I had, but then I realized I didn’t have the tow valve screwed in all the way, haha. Also, I had it in my head that I was going to be using the deck I got from Craig at the PA show (it was the deck that came on his 875 from Scott). But when I got ready to transfer the cast iron spindle holder from the bottom of one of my parts decks, I realized that the deck I got from Craig was a 36â€. I was excited, and disappointed at the same time, haha. I ended up making one of the parts decks work. I was supprised at how well the mower cut! I guess I wasn’t expecting a 48 year old lawn mower to cut as well as it did. The two things I am still a little concerned with is: 1) At full throttle seems to run the little kohler too fast. It just sounds like it is running at a really high RPM. And 2) I have to hold the control lever in order to keep it from increasing ground speed. I feel like I am always holding it back. If I let go of the speed control lever, the tractor accelerates to max speed. Out with the old and in with the new: A straw wrapped in 'merica duck tape made for quick fill of the transmission fluid. Since what came out of it was ATF, I figured I should just put ATF back into it. This is what the bottom of the deck looks like. I am planning to take the deck back off and POR15 it. just took this picture as a before type picture. The lift bar was bent so I had to help it back to its original shape with the pry bar. This is a post mowing shot. It was definitely an interesting experience driving this thing. As I mentioned before, I am going to have to figure out why the transmission is accelorating to full speed without me touching the lever.

Last year when I was selling shifter knobs, I sold a pair to a fellow about 50 miles from me in central PA. When he didn't receive them in a timely fashion, I checked the tracking and found that they were in a post office in Honolulu, Hawaii. After a week there was no movement, so I sent out another pair. This time they went to a post office about 15 miles from the destination, turned around and went back to the air sorting center in Baltimore. From there they took another week to get to the destination. The knobs finally left Hawaii (after a nice vacation) and ultimately were delivered to the customer. He refused delivery and one day later I had them back.

Bob, it could be worse.. Of course this isn't just the postal service's fault, but it's Gov'mt related.

Heh Heh Heh, easier to replace a wife than a good Wheel Horse....

I dont know that I can be considered a collector "yet". But I am trying to find a few more and every attachment I can see myself using. But as to why? [emoji12] lol I have no Idea!!! Just seems like I should!

Wellcome to the craziness. NICE 1ST TRACTOR. You will soon find out what I mean. Lol Thanks for the pics and best of luck. Glenn

Sure is... ;o)

you may have a sender/ light problem (i.e. not calibrated properly) but boomer touched on another area you should at least look at if the sender doesn't fix the problem. the relief valve limits oil pressure to about 20 psi by a spring and valve. if the spring is weak, missing or the valve is stuck slightly open you might not have enough oil pressure when the oil pump is turning slower at idle and lower mid rpm. you say the oil pressure light goes out at higher rpm, maybe then the pump is turning high enough to get the pressure up to where the sender isn't reading low and flashing the light. this also brings up a scenario where the pump maybe worn enough, or bearing clearances in the engine are excessive, and the pump just isn't able to supply enough oil pressure to make the light go out at the lower rpms. only way to know for sure what the pressure is at all rpm is to hook up a known good (accurate) mechanical oil pressure gauge and run the engine. the mechanical gauges are cheap enough, i have one i picked up for $10 from the local farm store, just a small length of oil pressure hose, hook it up in place of the sender, (or t it if you want to see at what point the sender is working) zip tie the gauge to the tractor and run it.

Here is the wiring diagram Garry

welderdude the onan P 16 18 and 20 hp will usually open the relief valve at about 20 PSI. thank you. boomer. ( the used onan engine parts guy )

welcome to the forum... on all the Onan twins the oil light usually flashes with no oil pressure. not sure at what psi low oil pressure it would flash. its probably in the manual, i will check on that. was the engine running when it was flashing? i think the hose running from the air cleaner is for a warning light for dirty air cleaner element. the 520 had a vacuum gauge but i think that would be read from below the carb throttle blade.

The wife and I had a great time as well. Will definitely be back again, hopefully with the worker ready to plow. We bailed out of there after the raffle/flood. For the second time now at a show someone has offered to buy the wife's little Lawn Ranger. I didn't think I did that good of a job on it, must just be because it's a Ranger??? The only picture I remembered to take..

I recorded some video but have a heck of a time embedding here. I figured it out so take a look. It just does not get any better than this. What a great day. Thanks Mehlberg family. http://youtu.be/4gV-3SFUpnA

well jake, i dont have a big load like you, but were all ready to go. just taking kents 875 this year. long trip and will be nice just to have one in the back of the truck and not be pulling a whole bunch of them...... spent a good hour cleaning the jacksonville dust off the 875 tonight and snapped a few......

Well, I was going to copy my response to that same question over at another forum, then I realized you're the same person who asked it. A three bolt puller will be fine. I've also heard that a harmonic balancer puller will work just fine too. I really recommend if you have access to a welder or a friend with one, you try that solution I gave you. Works like butter.