Leaderboard

I just picked these tri ribs up via trade. I've wanted ribs for a while because when I cut grass and its a little damp the grass was lodging into the treads and they wind up falling off like a recap leaving clumps. I'm also hoping these will cut down on the clippings that wind up on the flywheel screen. With the forward swept axle with gear reduction the steering is now totally effortless. My C-161 looks kinda small in comparison!

Should have done everyone a favor and run that Lilac right over with the deck a blazin!

You now have the bug, Next it will multiply and you cant stop it.

Just brought home a new project. The sheet metal is in super shape , just really dirty. I have an eaton 1100 to put in it from my 416 that smokes. I like the hood and dash better from the 500 series than the 400 series. The 416 smokes real bad and I would rather rebuild the p218 onan if possible. It came with a smashed up 48" deck that may be savable but I am not worried about that now. I was hoping for a valve seat. It ran great on one cylinder onto the truck. No smoke or knocks so I had high hopes. Well I pulled the rear plug and saw no movement tonight. Then I decided , its just a hand full of bolts to get the head off and here is what I found. It is a broken rod.... darn. What has me worried are these chatter marks in the bore. You can't feel the marks with your finger nail. I will have to take it down further to find out more on the inside. This will be a budget onan rebuild. I will only be replacing the parts that are worn out. I am hoping to get away with pistons , and rods. Crank and cam bearings if need be. Also any little things that need replacing and seals. We shall see I guess. So in the end I will have a 518 with eaton 1100. . Not sure what to call it. Here are some pictures. I am hoping to have it running before fall.

I am new to this forum and i hope I am posting to the right spot. I have a wheelhorse 616-z that I have had since I bought it new. its an awesome running lawnmower. The only downfall to it is it has always cut really low from day one and have the cut the grass every few days. I have the deck all the way up on the highest point. Does anyone have an recommendations on how to fix this? Do they make a bagger system? Also does anyone have any tips for this lawnmower on how to make it better? Thanks

Received the decal set today. Wow are they neat. Even my wife was impressed and she scows at my addiction to these tractors. Thanks again for a job well done.

http://www.wwnytv.com/news/local/Must-Watch-Little-Tractors-Big-Engines-265139001.html

Title says it all. My intent when I first bought the 312, was to do all the maintenance items, fix anything obviously broken or missing, and use the tractor till this fall/winter when I would do some serious restoration. But these damn things have a nasty habit of growing on you. Slowly but surely, I have repaired, replaced, re-worked, or otherwise restored a significant number of items. And I just can't seem to stop. All I have to do, is walk past the tractor, and notice some little less-than-perfect part, and I begin planning of fixing it. Just this week, I bought and installed a drive belt idler. This is covered in a separate thread under Transmissions. The other undertaking this week was the stripping and repainting of the seat frame. After picking up a new seat at the Big Show and installing it the day I got back, I have been seriously irked by the rusty frame and springs it was attached to. So...last Monday I dismantled the seat, frame, and springs, took them to work, and sandblasted everything. Applied a coat of primer, and painted the parts semi-gloss black. Most all the hardware was wire brushed and painted. Was pleased to note that there was almost no wear on the hinge, and even the rubber bumper caps were like new, no cracking or checking. Pretty pleased with how the seat frame came out. Maybe now I'll just leave the tractor alone till winter..... but probably not. Noticed that most of the paint is gone from the PTO pulley, and the muffler has some rust on it. The Rodent (granddaughter) gave the tractor her seal of approval by making me ride her around the yard.

Do like your new Pro Keds Ken.

Wheel horse anonymous may be my next step.. .

Here is a try at the picture. I like the red wheels with the hubcaps! Just add some streamers!

I use water and Reynolds heavy duty aluminaum foil crumpled up in a ball. Then hit it with Wenol It works amazing on everything but the most destroyed chrome.

The background story on the tractor is every bit as cool as the tractor itself. Glenn

Set the trans on a block with both axles off the ground...turn one axle. If the opposite axle turns in the SAME direction, then it is a 10-pinion LSD. If it turns in the OPPOSITE direction, it is either a 4-pinion or an 8-pinion differential.

I think that everyone should get a chance to play with the detente balls and spring...push those things together and try to get a shaft by them...while sliding out an Allen wrench and keeping the setup together.

No worries all I'm never going to pain it Last photos going up now The first in a long line of questions... So WD40 to remove grease and grime and very fine steel wool to??? What's the steel wool supposed to do? Get off the older dirt without damaging the finish? I would have thought anything even mildly abrasive would start removing what little paint is on it. John

Looks good.... And she looks happy! Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

My sister is out of town so I decided to mow her lawn. Its a short video, had a run in with a lilac bush near the end and thought it better to drive with both hands,too many things to steer around. Mark

Bravo! Great ingenuity. Let me guess...less than $20 in PVC elbows an pieces? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats Awesome!! Nice to see your little friend is on the move again... Wish there were more people out there like you!!

I'm with you on the low popularity of wheel horse equipment here in the south. I finally found a tiller on e-bay that could be shipped for a reasonable amount. The mid grader blade I made myself. Sleeve hitch, made that as well. Fabbed up a sprayer. Don't know what I may try next, maybe a pressure washer.

For fear of damaging a hub, I wouldn't use a press in stud. Depending on the drilled hole Ø I would tap the holes and install bolts; i.e.: 7/16-20 x 1 1/2" or 1/2-20 x 1 1/2" long and use acorn open ended lug nuts. (PS: 7/16-20 is the WH lug bolt size). This is a bit of an upgrade that I appreciate 100%. Makes mounting new tires 'n rims easier that trying to align lug bolts. Bolts and lug "nuts" are at most auto supply outlets. I often purchase the bolts at Lowes and the acorn open end lug nuts at the auto supply. Use Threadlocker blue on the bolts where they are threaded into the hubs.

O.K. anybody know where I can get an owner's manual and parts list for 1957 RJ35 And I'm going to need some help but....... Naturally the first thing I did was shoot a bunch of photos I'll upload more files tomorrow after I make them smaller. Quick backstory - apparently it has been down the street from me not 5 minutes away since the late 1950's It was used as a trade-in at a boat/ snowmobile dealership and has been there ever since. The business closed many years ago and the guy I bought it from - antiques dealer guy - was able to get in and rescue a few things. Guess it was stored indoors. The engine mounts/ bolts are missing and the carb and fuel system are in a box. I'm guessing over the years different people have tried to get it up and running only to be thwarted by a lack of resources. Resources like the great people on this forum. So I'm really going to need a parts list and a primer, no pun intended, on restoration. And no, I'm not going to paint it even though I really want to. 1. Because I don't know how and 2. My 1953 General Electric beer fridge is worthless because I put a coat of bright yellow paint on it. For now just WD40 and steel wool. But I really want to. John

I've been mowing my lawn with the zero-turn all summer so far . But after watching that video I'm going to have to dig the Raider out of the garage . Just looking down that Peterbilt "long-hood" was enough to stoke the fire . Maybe I'll even bust out the Go-Pro & shoot some video . . . . .

These are more designed for the guys doing it the first time...not so much for the guys that have done them before. I just know that some members have been looking for videos involving the hi/low mechanism...while not the same as an 8 speed...the principle is the same and will work. r356c, I hope you are right and it gives someone the confidence to tackle these transmissions and fix them...rather then just melt them down. It really is pretty simple to fix up and give a horse another 40 years. This is what is crazy...if you add up the minutes that I spent doing the videos...it comes to just over 40 minutes to rebuild this trans. Without the camera and the explanations, this can be done in about 20 to 30 minutes. You do not need any special tools and fixing this horse costs like $65 and you got a clean, good trans. I replaced the outer axle bearings, all the seals, the trans gasket, the one axle gear and picked up an input pulley, a new dog point set screw, and new nuts on the differential bolts. A definite feel good.

Here's Kelly's CBR-327

Thanks everyone! PM sent to stevasaurus but I am curious if the spider gears are available. I just lucked out again and found a snow blower for it just north of Green Bay, driving up tomorrow to pick it up.

Wonderful looking tractors, wish my C-120 looked half as good.

Really there can be so many qualifiers... do you want Wheel Horse branded implements, or include allied attachments (like the Danuser Forklift for GT14?), or include additional aftermarket non-allied attachments (like the Bachtold Fenceline Mower?) I would say let's just get some posted up and see where it goes from there. These are pretty hard to come by. It's far from the rarest though. I know of about 5 including mine. PTO-66 belly mounted Farm PTO.

Bill. Regal Red. Seems the color of choice. Yes I noticed the 3 bolt hubs were incorrect. While checking the manual. If I can get a set I will swap them out. Ok guys. Who has a set? Thank you for your compliment. Glenn Johnny wheeling the rim.

New paint. New tires. New tubes. New wheel bearings.

I see your problem from your pic......... Above the mixture screw there is supposed to be a small plug covering that hole, (look inside you will see 2 or 3 little holes through to the venturi) yours is missing, probably blew out while cleaning....... This will most definitely cause the symptoms you have now...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1 1/4 turns out, are you sure you got all the little holes clear? These are not your grandmas old kohler carb you know........ they will take you on a journey to higher levels of carb cleaning...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whaaaaaaaat Bob... you mean, the new crash helmet isn't working for you?

1961 decals and foot rests! Cool!! :-)

Welcome to RS!! I have a 416-8 with the Onan.... Beast of a tractor. Pushes snow like a city plow truck, and keeps my back yard looking like a putt-putt long green. Regular maintenance and keeping stuff off engine is the key to long life I believe. If my engine ever fails, I'll spend the money on a rebuild, but I don't see that happening for years to come. Trust us Onan owners who have faith on them, some do have carb problems that a good cleaning cures. Next on my list of attachments is a tiller, or snowblower, but a shed is first in line, room short in the garage..... Good luck on your search for a Horse. Gregg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mary Jane displaying her excellent wheelhorse cookies. Here we have the reservoir dogs

Thanks James, it's about to get a lot more insane Thanks John, it's certainly going to be a different build. Couldn't of said it better myself Burnouts you will see, but no mowing as the cutting deck won't be able to fit. Your not wrong, this build used to be Project Zero-ish turn until I had a serious change of plan.. I have a Wh for grass cutting and the new engine/bike popped up just at the right time so I thought I'd do a fun build instead As much as I'd love a V8 Wheel Horse (Can't beat the sound of a V8 ) it's a little too much power for my needs, the Honda engine has enough power to have fun and that's what this build is about

Thanks Richie, I didn't want to chop the hood or stretch the chassis as I want to keep it looking as standard as possible (well apart from the engine) with the bounds of safety of course Inside the box?? I can't find it on any map I have No prop needed.. I've only fitted the Honda engine as a donkey engine to start the jet engine I'm going to strap under the seat Thanks James, yes it is going to be a bit fast but all out speed isn't the name of the game.. Having fun, smoking a few tires and a bit of sideways drifting action is It will be used for fun mostly, but if driven sensibly it should be able to handle a bit of trailer pulling work. As you say it will have power to spare Thanks Mark The plan is to use a 90 degree box and chain drive into a Uni drive rear end.. I have found (Thanks Chris) an 8 speed withh 1 1/8 inch axles and an 8 pinion diff to fit in place of the 4 speed.. It should be strong enough to handle the power.. Not if I can help it I think the fear of doing serious damage to myself will stop me from driving it too stupidly As you would expect from me there will be plenty of videos along the way, infact here's the first one popping up now

Sounds like a nice tractor. Can you post some pics of it?

Perhaps overheating is one of the primary causes of the ONAN engine failures which justifies developing temperature monitors and alarms. I just picked up an overheat alarm that was used on the Wheel Horse 724-Z with the 24 hp ONAN. Apparently Wheel Horse, or Dixie Chopper who designed them for Wheel Horse, decided it was a good idea for this zero turn mower. Maybe the alarms should have been put on a lot more ONAN powered machines or at least offered as an option. Not sure what I will do with it yet. Maybe install it on one my ONAN powered tractors. Here is the alarm. Looks like it would be pretty loud. Not sure what the trigger temperature is: Here is an example of a 724-Z for sale that they were used on. http://fultontractor...rse-724-z-turn/

The one other observation I make is how many manufacturers do we know that drove a 60" deck with 20 HP? Is it possible you could run a 48" deck and never encounter the problem with a 520? I have to wonder if there is a narrow margine between high temp and a failure temp given the two dissimilar metals.

WD40 won't do a thing for you. Get some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil. Soak it. Let it sit. Keep trying. Never bang on the hub. If you hit it too hard it will break, and if you hit it from behind, you may just pop the axle out of the differential. Search RedSquare for pictures of homemade hub pullers made from an old hub and grade 8 bolts. They work best for me.