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Just got 1st place in the antique tractor class parade. Was pulling a minature hay rack filled with garden produce.

I got 2 of these last year and didn't use either until just recently. On my C-160, the Mule drive had either a broken or home made knob. When getting the tractor ready for the season, I decided to finally put on the new knob. The process was simple, use a hammer and drift pin, removing the old. Install the new one (Glen thoughtfully provides a nail to help align the holes) by tapping the new pin in place. That simple. This knob is extremely well made, and if yours is damaged in ANY way, I would without a doubt get in touch with Glen to get a new one. I am so glad that I did!

Glad to help. Take good care of them and you'll be able to pass them on too.I'm sure your grandfather would like that. You found a great forum with members who are passionate about their Wheelhorses and love to help. Just give 'em pictures and you make their day! :handgestures-thumbupright:

I will post one once i drive it around tomorrow. Thanks so much for the help. You have mo idea what it means to me. This 252-H and 520-H belonged to my grandfather who is no longer with us and we will never get rid of them. Happy 4th and thanks for everything!

IMO you have been given great info, but you may benefit by removing your fender and tunnel cover and possibly bottom dash cover if your motion lever is on the steering column. I personally think you are going to have a hard time doing this till you see how it all works and what it all does, then you may better understand how to do the adjustment. In the pic below, look at the bolt that I have laying on the pump arm.....when you remove the bolts that hold that on the cam plate, you will be able to rotate that arm forward and and backward making the wheels go forward and reverse. You will need to get it to the neutral, then adjust the linkages by putting your motion lever to the exact neutral location and hook up from there. If you do that with the fender and tunnel cover off you may/may not understand how it all works and next time you may not need to remove fender and tunnel cover. I have to understand how things function "before" I adjust. That may/may not work for you. Good Luck and hope you get this set so you can get back running.

As long as we are expanding, and I am, I always thought that Notre Dame and Missouri would have been great choices.

The 5xi use the same fuseblock that the 520-H uses. It is a known culprit for electrical problems because of the buss feed it uses. To its merit though on the 5xi, it is mounted horizontally instead of vertically as on the 520-H which lessens things being deposited in it. Get a fuseblock cover from Gen Pettit after you clean it out.

wheelhorse66...I was not mad at all. You have to remember that when you start a thread, there are a ton of people that want to contribute and offer help...also, a lot of people will read your thread. If the wrong information gets put in your thread, because not enough information was given, it can lead to confusion and even someone going out and buying the wrong parts. I would not have even posted in your thread, because rmaynard had already answered your question, but came in to qualify what RacinBob posted. wheelhorse66...I just went back through the transmission section and re--read all of your threads. For one thing, you never seem to put in all the information needed to get an answer right off the bat...almost in every thread, someone is asking you for more information. For another thing, you never seem to come back in and say if the information you received, for nothing, helped...nor have you ever said "Thank You for your help". I am not attacking you...it is just that a little manners would go a long way.

Good find on the rare RJ58 Front Stud Weight John! I have a 1958 Factory Parts Manual that list's this as a Part Number 3492, FW-60 (= front weight 60 lbs). and the stud kit, Part Number 3493. It is referred to as a front stud weight, due to the small hooked studs that thread into the back of the weight and rest on the front axle beam. It doesn't attach to nothing, it just hangs on the studs on top of the front axle beam. I don't see any paperwork before or after 1958 and I think they didn't make them for very long. Mine is a NOS unit in the original box! It shows the makers name and address and where it was shipped to. They would fit on the 1955, 56 and 57's too, plus the RJ58 and RJ59's. As Bill stated, I also think they were made to replace the front weight that was mounted inside of the grill hood area, but I don't think they were made before 1958, but it is possible. Those front grill mounting type weights were made in 1955,56 and 57. I think they weighed 80 lbs. Here's some pics of mine.

These little tractors are like Lay's Potato Chips, one isn't nearly enough. Found this one listed on CL and took it home today. The po listed it as an 18hp with a 38" deck??? Okay neither are correct, it's actually a K241 10hp with a 42" deck. The overall condition is pretty good but the engine smokes under load, no knocks or clicking so I might be lucky enough to get out of it with just a ring job, but in the end will do whatever it takes. Now this is not the original engine since it is a 1979 C-111 and was manufactured with an 11hp B&S and from the looks of the frame rails and the left side if the grille it had something much larger in it at one time. Still, I'm happy to have it and will enjoy fixing it up. Below are some pics of it along side my C-161.

First I'd like to thank the people on this site for helping me find a very nice RJ58. I posted that I was looking for one and got a couple of leads, and bought one that was about 3 hours from my house. I'll post a couple of pictures below. I have on other Wheel Horse an 854 that I restored a few years ago. I use it around the yard to pull my cart. I also bought a WH dump cart with the RJ and will be restoring it also, but it only need paint. I am sure I'll be asking a few questions and looking for some help. I'll try to post my progress and pictures as I go. It will probably take me all winter to complete. Thanks, Ted

In the past several weeks I've been reading, researching and educating myself on three dimensional printing. This is some crazy stuff. You can literally create objects/parts from a 3D CAD file. Essentially, the printer uses liquified plastic (ABS, polycarbonate and/or various blends) vs. ink as we're used to in conventional printers. So, having a need to re-create some parts I decided to give this a whirl with a company I found and researched online. My first attempt was to re-create a Hiller script emblem for YardHand tractors. I did a good deal of work scanning, photgraphing and taking every concievable measurment known to man to generate a 3D CAD rendering of the original emblem. I then had them professionally printed in a ABS/poly blend and here's the resulting product. The original was cast and chrome plated. I can have these plastic chrome plated if I want - for additional cost of course - or just paint them. But the bigger take-away here is the fact that it can be produced...with a printer! I'm in the process now of gathering specs on a strength poly offered to see if I can build drive gears and pawls for these tractors too. But certainly, this can apply to Horses as well!! Get thinking boys! What else can we make? Let me know.

I have a b80 that keeps getting stuck in reverse i have taken it apart a once it's apart the problem go's away I put it back together and it works fine for a while then drop it back in to reverse and it won't come out I have watched Steve's video and put it back together three times now just can't figure out what's locking the fork in reverse.

How is this?

we're not all that fond of the new line up here and we can see sometime that the truck will have to go farther away from home. This whole Big Ten thing has now turned into a joke mostly. I guess im not sure why we couldn't have gotten some team from out west or even Alaska to be included. Make about as much sense.

Very nice! Thanks for the picture!

Here's some nice pictures of my 520 and 416. I was going to use the 416H for a FEL project but decided it was to nice of a tractor so I made it into a mowing machine....

Good reason to NEVER throw anything away!!

I would have to say a New Ford F350 crew cab or maybe even a F450 crew cab with a 24' enclosed fifth wheel trailer. Have the sleeping up front with fold up racks so I could roll more tractors or (toys) in. I would undoubtly have the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel, Great truck, Great motor. That would do for starters

It looks like I am going to repop. Taking the weight to the pattern maker, I don't believe it will take to long at all. I'll let you know what happens, as I move forward.

Ditto on that....

how does the ball look on the end of the shift lever? and are all the gear teeth in good condition? is the two ball bearings spring and rod for the shift forks detente assembled correctly? Brian

It is advisable to simply cut your fuel line in an area accessible but not against the motor and install an inline fuel filter. It will save you someday on a carb issue!

Can you post the link for that video .Craig? My Firefox doesn't show any pic or video. Your welcome and .

Okay! I understand this now! I will try in the morning because its 11:00 and my neighbors will be very unhappy. Thanks for the help i will post back tomorrow morning with my findings!

The notch (in green ) is a factory notch for the Briggs air-cleaner. The other notch, if that's what it is (in yellow) looks like it was done by a previous owner. Some new decals would really make that tractor "pop"! Maybe a set of C-101's . Mike..............

Welcome to Red Square ! Nice! If any one asks why you *need* a decades old garden tractor, tell them it is an art object!

Update..... Installed a new Toro 7473 belt and an idler pulley. Noise has been reduce by 95% and is heaps quieter. The clutch engages really nice, much better than the one it replaced. I'm really pleased. I didn't realize how worn the old belt was. The old idler spun freely but far different from the new one. At this point it's case closed.......... Thanks for everyone's advice......

I already have one of those and will probably keep it since it was a gift. I bought and extra set of wheels and snow tires from tirerack.com and it goes great in the snow. It proved itself well in the two worst storms last winter. I had a car and an 18 wheeler wipe out only 20 yards in front of me during one storm. Both crashes were within 15 minutes of each other. The car was totalled and had the front wheel ripped off. The 18 wheeler managed to stay upright after slamming into the guard rail. Needless to say I'm very partial to all wheel drive.

Thanks for looking you guys...I had a fantastic time this year, and getting to hang with the Brits for a couple of extra days...priceless.

Sounds like you got a great deal on a great Wheel Horse! Remember to post some photos!

Was poking around on my hard drive tonight and found a couple pics. of the 312 taken the day I brought it home. Really looks ratty. Didn't recall it looking that bad. Now we can really compare.

You are gonna love that tractor! Economical and powerful...and cheap!

Still looking for that worker 520 for the loader

Here's what ya got... 71-08K801 1977 B Series Garden Tractor B-80 8-Speed Kohler K181S-30629D 8 Wheel Horse 103907 Mike.........

Lookin good man! Love the dual wheels and scrape blade. They really set the tractor off!

A man owning a large repair outfit in Pittsburg told me the only car he would own Would be a Subaru. And I would go with that. The last thing I would want would Be a 100 thousand dollar money pit. Any time night or day 24 7 under any conditions. That's a Subaru!!!!

guys and girls if you receive something from other members and you are happy with it,would you please pay up.To the people that like to stiff others how would you like it if you sent a product and never received any money.We are all here for the same reason I would assume so pay up please.

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Keith, I can definitely see where someone Not knowing what it is would Definitely scrap a piece that looks like this and weighs as much as it does. Just wondering if I should repop, maybe with putting Wheel Horse or maybe even Pond on it. Curious as to what others might think?

3D technology is now available for in home use too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbgGmtk6ibo

SUCCESS!! Loosened all the bolts associated with the front of the frame then used a jack to slowly lift the forks. After lifting 4 inches, the support bracket could be attached. Retightened everything and it seems to be OK. Thanks for all the advice.

A agree with the cowboy. Unbolt it from the subframe and back it out. Go over the front mounts and basically everything in general then bolt it back on. I think this is also best from a safety standpoint. Unless you have something that has bent over the years, everything should line up and those uprights should or would go straight! And your correct in pointing out the manuals and literature on these old Ark's don't show a whole lot. The manual from our manual section on the 1971 Ark FEL is about as good as it gets in showing some pictures on setting it up. (On and off in 15 minutes you know)! Bulls#*t!!!! Here is the link if you don't already have it. Good Luck!

3 weeks ago I picked up the 854 pictured in my profile. Drove 1100 miles round trip from Richmond, VA to Mansfield OH and back. Left at 4:30 a.m. and returned at 11:00 p.m. the same day. It was a very long day but well worth it. :)

I live nearby and have been to the museum many times in my life, but went again just recently. If you are in the Detroit area, it is a "do not miss". It is pure Americana, from early farm equipment from the late 1800s to historically relevant pieces from the 2nd half of the 20th century. I don't know if it is the biggest, but Wikipedia lists the Allegeheny as the heaviest. And it is massive ! The Henry Ford will take several days to "see it all". There is a huge outdoor museum (Greenfield Village) and it is also the starting point for the Rouge Factory tour (watch F150s being built) and even an Imax Theater. If you were on the roof, you had a pretty good view of the Ford Dearborn test track (which was an airport during the Ford Tri-Motor days). BTW, I worked "next door".

John, ah! the Mighty Allegheny! yes, a most amazing machine.. Built by the Lima Locomotive works.. A much more modern machine than the older Big Boy.. but! there is much debate as to what actually qualifies as "largest locomotive of all time"..is it weight? length? most powerful? Generally speaking, the Union Pacific Big Boy is considered the largest locomotive ever built, not the Allegheny..but it depends on what measurement you use: Length - Big Boy Wins. Weight - Allegheny Wins. Tractive effort - Big Boy Wins. Horsepower - Allegheny Wins. the debate has been going on for 50 years! they are so closely matched, that a clear winner for 'largest" cant be conclusively determined..and they wwere used in different parts of the country, for different types of service, and at different times..and were never compared together at the same time...Most people consider Big Boy the winner..He will always have the crown. Scot