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I don't believe there is anything bad about splash lubrication. All of our one lung kohlers are splash and we all know how they perform. And second, the KT series 1 is not splash lubrication in any way. It has an oil pump but only feeds the main bearings and cam. The cam is suppose to drip lubricate the rods. The motors are good up to 2000 hrs as long as oil is kept up with and not operated on steep hills for an prolong periods of time. Series 2 has a filter and drilled crank for feeding the rods with oil. Besides for the price, this one was coming home with me regaurdless. I would like to have a series 2 but I believe I can keep this one running a long time if it is ok from the start. kyle

Picked up a Suburban 1961 which has a Clinton in it. Looks original, but not sure yet. Came with original wheel weights, snow plow and mower deck. Oh yea this one has the serial number on the tractor and the mower deck. I'm tickled about this find. I already cut some grass with it. enjoy!!

Thanx for all the welcomes guys, That is soooo funny Lars. Great song Haven't quite got over the time differences yet at I am writing this at 4 am as it would be 10 am in UK. Had a day in Downtown Manhatten yesterday , Liberty statue, Ellis Island etc Also went to World Trade Centre Memorial , that place literally brought tears to my eyes. What a beautiful memorial they have given to those that lost their lives in 911 The new WTC building is just awesome . Was hoping to go into the 911 museum but there was a 3 hour wait in the waiting line. So we swerved past that for another time. New York City is an amazing place to visit, this is my second time in the Big Apple & it just gets better each time. Wonderful food, Amazing architecture And the size of the trucks is just mind bowing

Ok , I am starting to feel a little nuts but I couldn't help but go and pick this thing up. Once again a late night. We where on our way to play at an open mic and it just so happens, this thing was on the way.... Very solid tractor. I am keeping this on for sure. Seat is in great shape. I sure hope this runs. Its full of grass from last years mowing and I believe it was there only mower. More later.... Here is a teaser shot.

Well it took awhile but sure turned out nice.

Not sure yet. This might be a good one to clean up and leave alone

Yup, probably cast steel. The cross sectional area of the arms is really too small to be cast iron, and the slot pretty much rules a forging out. Steel. Cast steel, in fact any cast metal, tends to be brittle. The rolling process in a steel mill tends to align the molecules, and impart toughness. That said, cast steel, stainless, brass and bronze, etc, will more readily bend, hot or cold, than cast iron, you just don't want to bend it very far. When looking at a part that appears to be cast, there are a few easy tests that anyone can do to determine just what the part is. If magnetic, it is ferrous-based, and either iron, or any number of steels or stainless (your lower grades of stainless are indeed often cast, and will be magnetic). A forging will many times visually resemble a casting, but will almost always be steel. Also, forged shapes tend to be simple, think U-joints, wrenches, hammer heads, tie-rod ends, etc. If you have determined the part to be a ferrous casting, grind a little off with a sander, bench grinder, etc., and look closely at the spark pattern. Steel will emit a copious shower of bright yellow sparks. If cast iron, the sparks will be much more muted, shorter in length, and duller. The difference is easily discernable.

OK....NOW!!!!! The new gasket material arrived, got them cut and slapped everything together. With all the practice I've had I think it takes me about a minute to get all the parts in place. She's spinning free!!! Finally, I can move on to actually accomplishing something. Another big for all the help. Steve, you're the man! Time for a beer or 6 and go watch a transmission spin.

Enjoy us Neil...

Definitely going to show Neil a good time. He may not want to go back. He will be following me on the roads, so he should be OK.

Do a google image search "argent silver paint" for examples...everybody has it. I get mine from Eastwood...automotive restoration products. http://www.eastwood.com/silver-argent-rally-wheel-paint-set.html

I have heard folks say that with their first drink they knew they were in trouble. That is how I am feeling about recent foray into the wheel horse tractors. I will admit that I am a sucker for elegant mechanical designs which are a perfect blend of mechanical simplicity, efficienty and durability. Not since working on my old diesel mercedes many, many years ago have I been this impressed. The combination of the incredible designforum information, and the many manuals made available by you folks online I have been able to quickly understand the C145 I recently bought. It came with a rototiller which I had to remove after using it and install the rear hitch and the mower deck. I had no experience with mules etc but everything I needed to know was readily available. Needed a belt. No problem. You folks had a post that helped me find my model number, belt part number, and ultimiately size. The one thing I haven't seen is the list of where the Wheel Horse addicts meet. I don't want to end up like so many others on this forum with a garage full of wheel horses. My wife would divorce me and then all I would be doing is buying and fixing Wheel Horse tractors. Hmmm. Let me think about this some more Joe Brentwood NH>

Just wanted to say HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Kent. He is 14 today. (i would have started this thread this morning, if i hadn't forgot he was a member here....)

Now you guys got me thinking I should check my serial number. Heck I have not even looked at the tractor since bringing it home. It has just been go , go , go. I just got home now and I am thinking , should I stay up late and try to get the C175 ready for the bowers show or get up early tomorrow... I always seem to run out of time when I do last minute morning projects. At night I just keep chugging through till its done or I pass out from not enough sleep.

Spent a few hours in the shop tonight. More re-assembly. I think by tomorrow I should pretty much have it all back together minus the hood, fender pan, seat and tires and rims. I have to head over to Steve's to use his D/A to sand down the hood and fender pan. I want those to come out really nice. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

My name is Gregg..... And I am an addict... Started with one, and now I'm up to three.... The urge to say no to number four is not working..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I lied about tracing this last night! Streams are a little cloudy so the trout were calling me.......again! This weekend.........maybe! Besides, my knees are getting sore! Damn good thing I'm not Catholic despite my Italian heritage or they would kick me out of church! I'm beginning to feel my late 50's inevitable aging!

I vote that the for the RS picture..the members who travel the farthest..are up front! Neil, Did you bring a Union Jack?

finally got my peterson tail lights today..... got them fitted with the correct wire and 'bullet' terminal to plug into the factory harness. i had some old taillights that the wire was still good on, but the bulb holder had gone bad, so i cut the wire from two of them, crimped the 3/16 female spade terminal on the end and installed them on the seat pan..... heres the lights i used, peterson 135R clearance lights from trailer.com, they are 2 bulb units and run about $4.50 ea. old tail light next to the new, the old donated the wire to connect them with the correct terminal connected to tractor harness, used one of those clips that like to bite the paint, but seem to hold the excess wiring under the seat pan out of the way of moving parts.... looks like i need to get the steering wheel sorted, i need a seat and then decals. i think I'm almost done!!!!!!

I'd give you 2 thumbs up if my I- Pad would let me!

Great job... turned out really nice.

if your hub isn't damaged you could build on like I did from an angle iron,a 3/4 inch nut and bolt and 5 grade 8 bolts,ive not had a hub yet that didn't come off no damage

Is the fuel tank vent somehow clogged

Yes, I did see a full transmission service manual .PDF somewhere. Thanks! The hitch pin popped out like it was installed yesterday. The transmission input pulley is not parallel to the case by a degree or two in the direction that the belt puts tension on it. Preliminary guess without splitting the case is the needle bearing cage fell apart and a single needle bearing is wedged in the gears. Hopfully the casting isn't toast.

Thanks Guy's you just crack me up I can't wait to see your replys from the next "Will it Chop?" video.... Which is here

As luck would have it, I just picked up a 4" angle grinder and metal cutting wheels. I will do the lengthwise cut in the hub and try to save the axle.

Hi Sodor33, If you are still looking for the 3531 Spider Gears, I just ran across 4 New, Old Stock while listing obsolete parts on Ebay for our shop. I can give you first dibs and save me the headache of Ebay if you are still in need.

Should have mentioned ductile and malleable tarcoleo, that would work in this application too. You used to often find malleable in things like "C" clamps. Good call.

That tractor looks to be very clean, must have been kept inside - and sounds like you got a good deal on it too. On the subject of the KT-17's series 1 and their oiling method, I seem to recall reading somewhere Kohlers recommendation of the maximum grade to operate the engine at, anybody know what that was? I have 2 of the series one and both are in very good condition and I like them and the sound of them - I'd like to keep them that way!

I’m getting a rare sense of confidence that I have the issue resolved. I tried to check for axle housing squareness but it’s just not off enough to be certain. I honed out all four bronze bushings a little bit more and just made sure everything was polished smooth. I reassembled the differential and installed just it in the case with NO gaskets. It’s turning!! The axles are completely free and the differential seems to be rubbing just a fuzz but still turning pretty good. With no gaskets it likely is the differential housing being pinched a bit but it’s slight. The gaskets will probably resolve the rub but, worse case, I’ll need to get a little more clearance on the carrier bushings. With the assembly process used 54 years ago I believe that the tolerances needed when new parts are installed has to be a little more than today’s processes would require. I’m at a standstill right now until Mr. postman gets here today.

It has steel fenders , but that's ok. I like the steel fenders. Yes. The C-125A and the C-175 8 speed. I need to update my signature.

I would look for bigger rims if you want to put 8.50 ags on the tractor. I would leave the narrow rims and tires alone . Put some chains on and use them for when the kids want to push some snow around. My sons 854 ain't great with the ags only when pushing snow, its almost useless if its his weight on the tractor. i have the tri ribs on the front of his 854 and they really help, and they look cool.

Why not keep the history/patina... and just clean as you go? It's only original once.

Removed the toolbox and fenders('cuz I like this look)... to make room for these 23x9.5x12's shown here Glenn.

I like that air filter, great flow-thru design. Should block many bugs, house pets, and furry woodland creatures.

I'm glad you revisited the topic of cleaner additives in the oil. I failed to address your concern on my initial response. My personal choice would be NOT to routinely use cleaner / additives in the oil. The only reason I might consider using a "sludge remover" in the oil is if you ( or the previous owner) were using non - detergent oil. Non-detergent oil allows all collected contaminants to settle to the bottom of your oil pan. I might consider a once a year cleaning of the bottom of the oil pan by draining the dirty oil, closing the drain tube and putting a pint or so of "sludge remover" into the oil pan. I would NOT start the engine but let the sludge remover sit for several hours and then rock the tractor back and forth to remix the cleaner and the sludge and let the cleaner sit for a few more hours. Then drain the cleaner and sludge from the pan and refill with clean engine oil. Again, this process only applies to engines fed a constant diet of non detergent oil. If you use detergent oil (which I'm thinking 98% of us do), the contaminants stay suspended in the oil and are drained out with the oil change. Please feel free to ask questions. Chuck

First of all, what year is the B-80? Looking at the hub, I would guess that it is a 1" axle, making it a 1974 or 1975 4-speed. Not sure why the input shaft is locked, but I have two disassembled B-80 4-speeds that we can get you some parts from if needed. Sent from my Moto G using Tapatalk

Thanks Craig, am going to have to re-do my wheels at some point, beginning to get some surface rust.

If I may sneak this in here Toro lists the 1-0140 as using transmission model 5084. The transmission service manual lists model 5080 and 5084 for the 1-0140. 5080 uses 2-piece pinion gears and was previously used in the 1971 WorkHorse 800 model 1-0100 5084 uses 1-piece pinion gears. Which is correct or did they use up old inventory first? Garry

Welcome to the States, Neil. Enjoy your trip.

You might be able to get to 3600 RPM's by adjusting where your throttle cable sets with respect to the carb. I had another color tractor with this same problem and that was the fix. IMHO - you should run at full throttle, 3600 RPM's. This gives you maximum blade speed, maximum lubrication and maximum cooling potential. When you hit a tall patch of grass, your engine's governor will try to maintain the 3600 RPM's. At that point, you are maxed at the amount of fuel that can go into the engine and are truely making your engine's max hp. Once the engine starts becoming overloaded, the RPM's start to fall and you start getting into the torque curve. Think of torque as a baseball bat and the amount of torque when you swing it is based on your hand position. So when you're no longer choked up on the bat, your swing slows, but when you hit the ball, it will hammer it. Same with your engine hp's torque. RPM's slow, the engine has the big lever to muscle through the tall grass. When it's over, the engine returns to 3600 RPM's and your gold again.

Welcome Neil. See you at the show.

welcome Neil see you at the big show Brian

I had to drive a postal truck with the steering on the WRONG side when I worked on them EGAD!!! Nice to have you aboard Neil. Watch out for guys with Chicago Bears jersey's on!

Amanda, One very important question to be asked before giving it a Yea or Nay would be “What do you expect to accomplish by the use of this product?†Experience tells me most expectations for “liquid fix†products fall into one of three very different categories. Scenario one. “I use it a few times a year as preventative medicine.†This, in my opinion, is the expectation held by the most informed user, folks who take one a day vitamins and 81mg aspirin. These users understand 50 year old gasoline engines will develop deposits in the combustion chamber and in the valve area. These users understand gradual varnish buildup takes place in the fuel delivery system as a natural aging process. These users understand small deposits are most easily resolved by fuel system cleaners WHEN THE DEPOSITS ARE IN THE EARLY STAGES OF THEIR DEVELOPMENT. I have been using this product for nearly 15 years and believe SeaFoam will perform admirably as a preventative added during regular fuel-ups. Scenario two. “I used it when I had a fuel problem and it didn’t do a $^#^ thing!†NOT EVERY ISSUE CAN BE CURED BY SEAFOAM. A worn out throttle shaft closely mimics varnished fuel passages in a carburetor.. SeaFoam cannot cure a worn throttle shaft, problems with corroded points or a problematic ignition coil. You may not have properly diagnosed this problem and used the wrong tool to attempt to correct your problem. However, Seafoam can function very nicely as an exclusionary diagnostic tool. Many talented automotive diagnosticians use products such as this to eliminate suspect areas of the fuel delivery system in cars. The SeaFoam treatment works wonders for diagnosing and correcting fuel injector delivery imbalance caused by buildups dissolvable by SeaFoam. Scanario three. “I used SeaFoam and it caused a whole bunch of other issues.†I’m guessing these engines and fuel systems were what I call TW’s. “train wrecksâ€. Problems just waiting to happen. 20 plus year old fuel lines, brittle fuel pump check valves and years of tarnish, bugs, and trash in the fuel tank. Adding (or probably overloading) the fuel with Seafoam breaks off large chucks of varnish, bugs and debris and clogs your fuel filter or maybe even your carb passages. Dam#^$% Seafoam. Not the fault of the product itself as it is doing what it promised – dissolving deposits. You are using the product improperly and expecting a miraculous cure for your TW. Ain’t gonna happen! Use the right tool for the right job and have realistic expectations. As far as the negatives you have heard. “Too much smoke†– sorry, you are using the product improperly – you are putting waaaayyyy to much product in your fuel. “Too expensiveâ€, OK. Buy the gallon and reduce the price in half. Less than 50 cents per thankful a few times per year. It’s a hard argument to make when you spend hundreds of dollars in time / materials on your paint job on that same tractor !! If a cheaper alternative is needed, I have also personally used Chevron Techron fuel additive in everything from Porches to Dodge Caravans without issue. “Didn’t clean up my carbon deposits†– you don’t want to clean a cylinder area with heavy deposits by chemical action alone. Wrong tool for the job. You don’t want flaked off carbon “chips†down around the piston ring area. Best to remove major carbon buildup by mechanical scraping and then followup with regular addition of the additive. “Not recommended in the manufacturer’s manualâ€. I haven’t checked later model engine manuals but the K series wouldn’t be updated since it is no longer manufactured. Manufacturers typically don’t recommend any additives but I have yet to see any manufacturers specifically stating not to use SeaFoam or like products. Most manufacturers don’t care as long as the product makes it through the warranty period. As far as the composition of the product, MSDS sheets are not required to list any manufacturer’s “secret ingredientsâ€. The only time they disclose those secrets is if someone presents at a hospital ER having swallowed their product. The physician will then contact the manufacturer and then be informed of any additional ingredients not listed on the MSDS.

nice to have you here,Neil!!!! driving here aint that bad, i guess it took me a day or two to get out on the road without taking the left side instead of the right! (right, but really its wrong...) its been 15 years or so now, every now and again i find myself thinking and sometimes second guessing until i remember where i am. but I've never pulled out on the road on the wrong side again since that first day! i still remember the look on the drivers face in the car coming towards me..... hope you enjoy your stay here. Im sure you will enjoy meeting some of us midwesterners at the show this year as well. sorry i won't be there to meet you though...... I'm sure Steve will more than make up for it though. Hey Steve, show the Englishman a good time, ok?

Good luck

welcome to the USA ! you will love flipping the windshield washer lever instead of the turn signal! have fun. I guess at the show we just have to look for chap with the jellied eel!

Finally, worked it hard today, gave it a bath and a good rubdown and it is heading into the stable soon for a rest. This was quite an experience redoing an old horse, cost me a LOT more than I had expected, but, it is worth it, it will still be running after I am gone, LOL Still need a few decals to finish up, hope to get them soon.

In my sleep? Today that would have been called a nightmare. I did start getting frustrated cuz things just weren't making sense. Then I discovered the problem with the rod holding the diff in the side plates. I do need that shim on the brakeshaft at the mushroom gear end. It's rubbing just a fuzz but wasn't causing the issue. The diff was the only thing I had in place. I got the axles and pinions back out but I need new stones for my hone. I'll get those tomorrow. I had already smoothed the pipe thingys the bushing ride on but I did some more this morning, I did gain a little bit so I agree that it's headed in the right direction. I'm going to use 1/32" gaskets instead of the 1/16" so the fit to the frame will be better. There's still going to be plenty of room for the shims on the input and brake shafts. You would have had to refill that cooler several times today