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Yes, looks like it will be nice. I like the hot weather but last year I heard a lot of complaining about the heat and lack of shade....I think I'm going to throw the shelter in the back of the truck just to keep everyone happy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the biggest problem was the motor a kohler K160 was missing the complete ignition system. one finally came up on E-Bay and I got it I assembled the motor and got her started I just wanted to see if the old girl would still run before I did a complete rebuild getting the painting done

So I took some of the advise and kicked it up to a semi-gloss, painted the hub the same and shot the lugs silver to match the silver on the rim. I hate bright white rims (no offence to you guys who do it). I'm happy with this scheme and will try to have the rest of the rims done by the Scantic Valley show in Somers....maybe... ....work has me flying across the country again this week! Mike.........

I'll make it if I don't have to work, probably won't know 'til Friday.

The front frame half was badly broken so instead of trying to weld it up I got a frame from a 58 and and cut the spot welds off the front half and modified it to a 57 Brian

Lots been goin on in this thread that I've missed...Craig still hasn't revealed the secret location of his storage bunker and Brian's lips are still sealed on his shiny new purchase... I think Brian might be waiting for a BIG REVEAL? Craig, I'd love to find a tombstone weight myself... I must also add that I'm impressed with the collection of very nice original tractors you have been able to put together in just a few short yrs...

Wheel horse's are my first and most favorite tractor to collect and restore but having said that I find that I really like a few other brands and wanted to add them to my herd too the old round nose Bolens tractors are one of these I always thought they were cool looking I happened to be telling a coworker this that work one day and he looks at me and says I think there is one of them sitting in a hedge row at my moms house who'd a thought I have only been working with the guy for 30 years. anyway he promised to take a picture I went and picked her up the following saturday she was very rough that was a year ago in apirl I have been working on restoring her off and on for a year now. I wish I had taken some pics before I turned her in to a pile of rusty parts many parts were replaced with new pieces I built as they were very badly pitted some need repairing like this pulley's bad key way or totally rebuilt like this belt cover

I will be there and looking forward to seeing everybody there!! Looks to be a good weather day so far!! Won't be such a long trip for me to get there as I'll be in the Quad cities on thursday

slowly getting the frame back together Brian

that looks fairly normal your thumb screw should pull the hood to the frame piece you can try this. loosen all the bolts to the hood stand gas tank and tool box bolt the hood in place don't tighten the gas tank hood bolts just the front hood bolt see if that shifts the parts around for a better fit tighten all the bolts before you remove the hood again that may help Brian

This is a Grizzly seat from Tractor Supply. It has the adjustment as well as armrests. This pic is as she came but I have since removed the adjuster and the armrests. Just my preference. The sku # is 0278302.

Perfect for the task, are the militay green ammo cans...have a latched, rubber sealed top. Come in a multitude of sizes too.

I know its out of context, but this line made me smile / shiver,

Thinking I might use this to break ground... and my new FEL to remove the small embankment beside my one lane driveway. Got it hooked up today...but can't bring myself to drop it in the yard yet... concluded, it's definitely gonna leave a mark when I do.

I have a bunch of tires I need to mount, etc. so I thought I would spring for one of these mini tire changers at HF http://www.harborfre...nger-34552.html I know you can use screwdrivers, pry bars, hammers or whatever, but I got this on sale for $33 with coupon so I thought what the heck . . . I'm a tool guy. Started out with these two front tires on my lawn non-WH tractor. They both had leaks and needed filled every few days. If I have to go to the work of dismounting, I'm not screwing with a tubes when the tire itself is worn out anyway. Dismounting was a breeze and both tires were off no time flat Bead breaker works great. I mounted the whole thing on a bench and the top of the mounter is removable. Fix-A-Flat worked good for a year or two, but I would not recommend it because it gums up your rims and is a pain to clean off. I got these tires from eTires.com for $15 each. It's a non-WH turf only tractor, so durability/quality/etc were not a concern. Their shipping method is very simple, which I guess offsets the cost. The down side is they are hard to get re-spread for the bead to seat. At first I thought this would work good after watching YouTube videos (straps didn't do anything - Maybe if the tire was in a regular shape) MOV06359.MPG Maybe I needed more starting fluid or more ball$ (or perhaps God did not want me to die in a furious garage fire at the tender age of 47 before Olde Tyme Days) . . . so I decided to give them a bug hug while pushing air in with the valve stem core removed and eventually got them seated. After researching several forums I found that 303 Protectant (or the Turtle Wax version) was an excellent lube for various reasons. If your rim is clean you will not need tubes for the same reasons your car does not need tubes. CLEAN rim seat+good lube=leak free seal. Check it with water when done to make sure there are no bubbles. If so, beat the tire with a large poly or rubber hammer near the rim a few times. That may do it. If not, break the seat/CLEAN/lube/re-seat. Dip the whole works in a tub of water and make sure there are no leaks, Bottom line is for a little money if you want another tool to play with, it works pretty good. I think there is a YouTube video showing it's use too. I saw some reviews about bending the mounting bar, but I think if you have enough lube and are using it for it's intended application in the manner it's supposed to be used it will work. Hope this was helpful. Before you ask, if you have rim that is large enough to be placed on a regular garage tire machine . . . don't use this. I take mine to a local garage and have the tires on/off in minutes for few bucks (or free if you have a friend) :orcs-cheers:

Here is some pictures. Got this from a friend of a friend. Came. With a snow blade, snow thrower, 42" deck. It has a Tecumseh motor. I got it running. Needed a battery and a carb cleaning. Needs a carb kit and a fuel pump kit. Need to find those yet. I mainly got it because I needed a mower for my yard. I had an 857 I gave to my dad. It has a grader blade which I stole to use on this tractor. I ordered some blades and got the two broken blade bolts out of the spindles. It will need some deck bearings at some point. I'm hoping to get thru the summer and do some upgraded this winter. Not sure where to get bearings. Hopefully they can be had at napa. Not sure why I can't post a picture. Must be too big. I will try again tonight.

So, long story short, I was looking for something interesting for my next Wheel Horse. I was keeping my eye out, and then I saw something that kinda stuck in my mind. It was so unique. And luckily, I was able to snag it. I talked it over with my parents, and they helped me out with it, and my dad took the 6 hour one way trip with me yesterday to pick it up. Without further adeiu, here is the info on the D-250 and my findings so far, and some pictures, and a video! So, The tags on the tractor make it a 79, 80, or an 81. but the front loader tags, say 80 or 81, so I am going to call it a 1980 D-250. The tractor runs absolutely beautifully and smoothly, It has just under 590 hours on it, there is a slight belt squeal from time to time, and the alternator light will sometimes flicker, but I will figure it out. Everything works, from the front loader to all the levers, gears, dash lights, steering box has no play, ect. The only problems with it, are that it is not a beauty queen, the headlights and tail lights do not work, the rear fender is broken because it is plastic, the foot throttle is a little weird, it doesn't work perfect, and there is a hydraulic leak in the front somewhere, not large, but noticeable when the tractor sits. With all this said, I have done my research, and will take care of this tractor. I understand how rare of a breed they are, and want to make sure it works for a long, long time. I looked at all the weak points that people say to check for, and everything seems to be alright. It does need some fixin's here and there, and it will need to be treated with TLC, but, this thing is absolutely AWESOME, and I LOVE it. I didn't realize how large it actually was until i brought it home. Click on the pictures to make them larger Oh, and it came with a tiller, with some obvious weird repairs This is how we had to transport it, because it was about a foot too long with the bucket on our 5x9 trailer. This will make some people happy:

I've been restoring my dad's 1962 model 552 Wheel Horse tractor for the past three years now. I am actually converting it to a 502 model with the correct Lauson HT55C-3088 which I found. I am close to getting her finished and really want to take her to the Big Show next month. But now I have one problem... the hood doesn't fit and I don't know why. I know you guys like pics so here goes. I've gone from this... to this as of now and painting sheet metal parts... The original gas tank and hood were beyond repair, so I have replaced those items only to find now that the replacement hood appears to be about 5/8" to short where the bottom of the front grill mounts on to the front of the frame... I have the engine mounted on the original holes in the frame, the replacement hood matches the old hood dimensions, and the gas tank dimensions match the old one as well. In order to fit the hood over the gas tank and line up the two rear holes, the front tab on the grill is about 5/8" behind the front of the frame. I also had to remove the air filter from the front of the engine to fit the hood in place as well as there was interference there also. I can not figure this out as all of the parts are correct for the 1962 model year... and the hood is really nice and straight. Any advice would be greatly appreciated if anyone else has ever had this problem with a hood not fitting properly on a 502/552 Wheel Horse.

Welcome Bill. just one question. what purpose did you have in mind for a garden tractor with 44 diesel HP? my initial advice would be "don't buy Stens wheel bearings for the front wheels"..

It has been a while since my last update on this project. Now that that nicer weather is here I am able to get back to working on it. I put the bed back on. I started to install the new wiring harness today. It was one made for this truck so it is going together pretty good. I will need some help with the final wiring since this motor is set up for 12 volt and there will be a few mods that need to be done. I also got the 4th rim painted and tire mounted and balanced. I decided to go without the hubcaps and install some longer chrome lugs which I think got the look I wanted. I may end up installing some trim rings too. My goal is to be able to drive this truck to the Kent show in the fall with an RJ loaded up in the back!!

Surplus Center has them for $102.95 Well worth it IMHO

I am looking to add a tool box /storage on my 312-8. Was there one offered as a WH accessory? If anybody has built one, would you care to share?

That seat Racinbob has is the best! I've had one for over 10 years and it's the best tractor seat I ever sat on!

would like to see a pic of the leather tool pouch ?????? I have seen the grey fergy toolboxes used on garden tractors , they bolt them to the top of the seat fender or to the side of the belt cover

Finished off all 4 rims today. I like it and this is probably the finished product ( I do wonder if the hubs shoulda been silver tho ?). Next to be painted is the exhaust. Mike.............

I was thinking about this a while back for one my RJ s which I use without the tool box and fenders since I like that look. It's a pain however since it has the rope start and nowhere to put it. I decided to get a leather motorcycle tool pouch and hang it off the back of seat.

Gotta luv a Tecky powered 120.....My favorite horse.

I run a set of 23 x 10.5's on one of my machines but its mainly for snow duty, I haven't mowed with it. It does get used for trailer duty as well and is driven across the lawn often with almost 75 pounds on each rear rim and it has never torn up the grass. It might if it didn't have the weights helping it "bite in" tho . So far I am extremely satisfied with the tires! Mike...........

Just going to bump this up. It is this Saturday. Looking like temps in the 60s and sunny...perfect weather for AJ's. See you there.

Two thoughts here: 1.) The walbro if it is adjustable will be a fine carburetor, will keep the oil cleaner, and have better emmissions. However, when the engine lugs from 3600 rpm to 2500 rpm or so (I actually never measured it), with the governor wide open, the engine will just drop to nothing. This is by design. When the engine load is removed and the engine recovers, you will notice little to no smoke. These carbs tolerate some dirt but not a lot. 2.) The carter will allow you to load the engine down to an idle if you wanted, however when you remove the load, you will be greeted with a black cloud in your face. They are also far more tolerant to neglect and dirt. Although they may run a little rough, you can still operate the engine. I prefer the carters for any K-series, however the Walbro's with the high / low adjustable jets work very well on the magnums.

Will be there...Not bringing anything...if I did that there would be less space in my small pickup to haul things home!! Looking for a deck for a neighbors 857 I am working on and other stuff....maybe a whole tractor but don't mention that to the other half!!

Attention to detail is unreal !!

Nice score right there...

That's just thrown together from a rusty old bed frame rail and scraps that were under the bench except for the 3/4 bar stock for the center attachmatic, I did load test @ 300 pounds at the ball and didn't end up on the floor next to a steel pretzel. It just crossed my mind that it also be used as a front weight carrier to counter balance heavy rear attachments by using a long bolt or ready rod to hold a stack of barbell plates. I suppose that I'll have to make another one for my horses. It's been a few years but the last time I looked receiver tubes were north of $20. and a deal when you figure the time and material to locate 2" ID seamless tube and then cut it to length and drill the 21/64" hitch pin hole on the right place and then you need to buy the insert and ball on top of that, add another $20-30 bucks and you start to get spendy just to move a trailer in and out of the garage

Happy Birthday to #5.....couldn't think of a better guy to get cake on mommy's day!!

Happy Birthday Karl and hope you had a great day! I hope to hit the Outback tomm night for some Kookabura wings myself!

Yep, I saw it... Wheelie the horse made you smile.

Looks like you've scored...the twin(no pun)to mine. Has a mint plastic pan and high back seat, but I swapped them for the steel 520 version.

I'm going to try and update this with all the little things that have been done since last time. i decided to go back to the standard size engine drive pulley(was going to do the hydro one like on the c125) but decided to just keep this one standard 'speed'. so i cleaned up the 8 speed engine pulley and got that installed. waiting on one pto part and then the pto can go back on. also need to buy a drive belt. 93-9809 and get that on. while i was working on the drive area, i got an idler pulley sorted. the one that was on it was loose and worn in the bearing so i split it and purchased new balls, cleaned up the races, painted the halves and bolted it back together. it went well, but the races had small notches that were really hard to get out. the pulley spins a little noisier than i would like so i ended up just buying a new one from napa. the hd one with the 6203 sealed bearing in it. much quieter and smoother..... blasted the old one. drilled out the spot welds and separated the halves. then rebuilt the bearing using new balls purchased from mcmaster car and put it back together. these are the only shots i have of the old rebuild.... then, not satisfied with the rebuild i purchased a new napa idler part number 7-05485 and removed all the sloppy gray paint and repainted it black, masking off the bearing etc.... also got the headlight harness built. need to get a male/female packard 56 series 2 terminal plug and then thats done...... installed new headlight surrounds part numbers 109494 and 109495. also tied up the loose ends on the brake side of the trans.....

The above method is referred to as "static timing" there is a procedure that has been posted on the internet that explains in detail how to do it. I find that static timing is much better than just setting points to .020. Here is a link courtesy of Matt Gonitzke: http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf

Firstly good luck with your big plot, if you get yourself organised it wont be hard to look after, it'll be a pleasure. 1 If you want to do all you can with your you'll need a tiller and a cultivator minimum, cultivator for hoeing between rows. 2 I use a row spacing of 28" for most plants, that way I can use my tractor for hoeing until the plants are to big, then I use a single wheel hoe. ( planet jr ) 3 Can't help with the heirloom seed question, but that's something I would like to get into, so I'm interested in what others have to say.

Floats are less than $10 any auto parts that handles Primeline small engine parts can get them usually overnight if they don't stock them

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carbshop_parts.htm Good information here....

Terry, Looks like I will be attending with my dad again this year. I would love to have a magnet. Trying to make it work where my 5 year old can attend his first Wheel Horse show!

Well since I started planning for the show the min. I put the key in the truck to leave last year I'll be there. I'm bringing Marvin so there will be at least 1 non red hood there plus Ezra as 73 is the feature tractor but I have a big problem. Last year I needed tons of stuff as Marvin needed to be rebuilt. This year my list will be much smaller. I'm supposed to keep a certain Dino entertained all weekend by walking in back and forth in front of his lawn chair carrying parts. Since I have a short list but the main thing I'm looking for is a pair of 8" HORSEHEAD HUBCAPS!!! I hope to do more driving around taking pics, cooking brats and maybe selling a few things. I'm bring the home made mid grader which is sold to drop off and an electric Flake Flinger for Vinylguy.

^ let us take a moment of silence for the fallen ones

engine oil + touch screen=mess

I might look into getting one of these! when I try to do it with other tools I end up doing this .