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It is a 2014 Silverado...2 wheel drive...8' bed...regular cab...v-6 (4.?)...Tungsten Metallic... Getting the cap put on before Mentone. This truck was on the lot and was pretty much what I would have ordered. It came with power windows and mirrors...I would not have ordered that. It was half the cost of Brrly's Land Yaht...

I have e a few Mac's in the house. A Mac Mini which is used as a home server storing pictures, music, movies, documents, backups etc. Then an iMac desktop, and 2 MacBook laptops. Anyone who has more than 1 mac knows that they work very nicely together, allowing to share everything seamlessly like iTunes libraries, photo's etc. We enjoy camping and usually bring along one of the Macbook's, but once you leave your home network you no longer enjoy the seamless sharing of things like iTunes (we have a LOT of music and movies). So this past week I decided to experiment with what's called a VPN (Virtual Private Network) which I was able to easily get running. The problem with Apple's on a VPN is that the "Bonjour" service does not work (for good technical reasons). Bonjour is the thing which makes Mac's seamlessly talk to one another. To find a solution, I stumbled upon Slink. Slink has 2 components, one which gets installed on the "home" computer and one on the laptop or remote computer. Once installed there is almost nothing to do except enter a couple numbers and you're connected. Slink allows Bonjour and subsequently all the nice seamless Apple stuff just works. This is a great option for those of you who have more than one Mac and want to travel and still access everything at home just like you're there.

Just installed my new decals from Terry on my 520-8. I think they look great !!

Cleaned up the guards and pulleys, it was low on fluid and what fluid it did have was terrible. Rubber boot was in good shape but riding high on the shift so put it back in Its place. Seems to be working fine now. Thanks guys!

I think that if I were buying it, my main concern would be why it isn't rather than repairing the fender. I don't own a D-250 but I've heard that engine parts, including the distributor, aren't the easiest things to find. Get it running first then make it look pretty. That's only my 2 cents and in this economy it's probably not even worth that.

Where do you add the nuts? Looks nice for a chevy. Lol

Very nice Steve... I heard tell...2014 will be the last year GM will offer an 8' bed with the regular cab.

pretty smart idea, i like it although i'd make it adjustable Koen

Martha Washington is the better variety and go for the three year crowns because it will still take longer than three years for a good crop! asparagus: an all-male cast purple asparagus IT SHOULD COME AS NO SURPRISE, since it’s true so many other places still: In the asparagus rows, males are in charge. ‘Martha Washington’ and ‘Mary Washington’ were names you used to see most often in catalogs, but no more. Their weakness: The Washington strains include both male and female plants, and the males are far more productive if what you want is lots of spears. Who doesn’t? In the mid-1980s, Rutgers University, a state institution in New Jersey, began a program to improve asparagus performance that focused on the extra productivity of the male plants. The resulting strains, most of which have the word Jersey in their names, are what you want to grow if you’re going to plant asparagus. They waste no time or energy on seed production and go right to the task of making spears. They can be harvested more often (about every two to three days in a productive, established bed) and yield about 20 to 30 percent higher than the old varieties. But asparagus tests even the most committed gardener, asking for a major feat of excavation followed by a lot of patience. Whatever kind you’re planting, you have to dig a trench about 18 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep (some people go a foot deep). Since asparagus is best planted in spring, when dormant roots are sold by mail, prepare the bed the previous fall or in earliest spring. Order roots, or crowns, by mail for the freshest possible plants; they will be either one or two years old when you get them. Growers like Jersey Asparagus Farms will tell you which all-male variety is right for your region. To prepare the bed, first test the soil pH by following the package instructions on a home test kit, or by taking a sample, according to their directions, to a local soil lab. The lab report will indicate how to amend the soil, and with what material; the typical routes are sulfur to acidify and lime to neutralize, but neither is a quick fix—or the whole answer. Adding large amounts of organic matter, preferably compost, to the soil should always be the first step; an organic soil is easier to pH-balance. For asparagus, you are aiming for a pH within the neutral range, or about 6.5 to 7.0. As you dig the trench, put the soil you excavate on a tarp or in wheelbarrows beside the site. Then layer the middle of the trench floor with a few inches of well-rotted manure and soil, sprinkle with rock phosphate and an all-natural organic fertilizer according to label directions, tamp the bottom, then fan the dormant roots out over the mound in the trench so they look like so many giant spiders with legs dangling. The illustration from Cornell University, above, shows the “W furrow†that is created once soil or soil and rotted manure is shoveled or hoed into the middle of the trench to support the roots, after the roots have their first soil heaped on top, as below: Space the crowns about 18 inches apart within the row, and leave a few feet between parallel rows. When they are in place, backfill an inch or two of soil onto the plants and firm, then water. Once the crowns send up green shoots, shovel in another thin layer of soil (don’t cover the tips completely), and repeat this step through the summer until the asparagus trench is filled back in. Keep the area weeded and watered. Now comes the patient part. You cannot cut any spears until the third spring in the ground – a full two years after planting. (Sometimes cutting for just two weeks in the second year is suggested; follow the directions your grower encloses with your crowns.) Until then, simply let the plants go through their cycle of sprouting spears that turn ferny in summer. Don’t cut off any foliage until cleanup of the bed in late winter or early spring. The payoff is obvious, if you love asparagus. And, best of all, if kept weed-free and otherwise well-tended, a planting can last for up to 20 years. Did I mention that you can also grow the super-sweet and exceptionally pretty purple-spear varieties at home (here’s one source)? Maybe food for another post…

Yep, time to take down the Red Valentine Hearts and put up the Green Shamrock. happy St Patricks Day

Those trailers are excellent for moving tractors to shows and etc...plus whatever else you need to haul around. It is also great for all your friends, that you never knew you had, to help move their stuff. You will not be sorry you bought that. Need a sign..."Will move for BEER".

Couple more recent pics. Designed a drawbar for the 1054. Plus, picked up 2 1054 dozer/snow blades.

I used a 48" side discharge mower deck on my 520H all last winter and it didn't miss a beat. I do have a 60" deck but the ground I cut is a bit rough - grass as opposed to lawn, and the 48 is a bit easier on the tractor. I am currently cutting around five acres which takes roughly four hours and two tanks of fuel. The mower didn't miss a beat but I was expecting the belt to break towards the end as it had lots of chunks out of the rubber. I managed to wrap up some fence wire a couple of times, mowing areas I hadn't been before but no major issues. The RH deck spindle has developed about half an inch of vertical play, but no wobble. I realised that I would need to do some work before next season, which is suddenly nearly here. The grass here greens up in autumn and grows strongly over the winter period before dying off in late spring. It normally doesn't require mowing from November until May, unless we get summer rains. This is the deck I used last year; I had four of the 48" SDD's and dismantled three of them for rebuilding. I picked up another 520 last week and so now have five 48 decks, in addition to the 60 and a 42" RDD as well as a new 42" SDD. I want to refurbish one of each for my WH collection as well as setting up two for use. That way if I have problems during mowing season I can just swap decks and keep on going. As another home project I want to make up some raised garden beds for growing vegetables in the back yard. I came up with a design and made some corner brackets to bolt sleepers together. When the brackets were done I decided to galvanise them so they will outlast me. This was just after Christmas and I was thinking I needed to get on with the mower deck. When I built my trailer a few years ago I had the rims, tailgate hinges and catches, and a bar inside the tailgate for the loading ramps to hook into all galvanised. They are not showing any wear after more than ten years. So far with my tractor rebuilds (416H and 520H in progress) I have had everything powder coated. I want durability rather than originality with the working mowers and thought why not get the parts for the decks hot dipped at the same time as my other garden brackets. They turned out great! I hadn't done anything with the deck shell and wasn't sure of the best way to treat it. I want something durable but low maintenance, so was leaning towards sandblasting followed by a couple of coats of POR15. However, when I got the galvanised brackets back I started thinking, I wonder if the shell could also be galvanised? Initially I was hesitant for fear of warping the shell, but when I was scraping the worst of the crud out from underneath the steel was thicker than I expected. I decided to take it to the sandblaster and call in to the galvanisers on the way and ask them if they thought it would handle the tank okay. The chap I spoke to assured me it would be fine so I decided to give it a try. The reason I was hesitant is that I made up some sump covers at work many years ago and when they came back from being galvanised they were all bent up like bananas. At the time I was told it was due to stresses locked up in the steel from welding. Anyhow, I thought it would be worth trying. I also took in the rear height adjuster bar, and a pair of 12" rims. The back rims on the mowing tractor seem to cop a lot of the grunge. Picked it all up yesterday and 100% success! You beauty. This one is going to outlast me. Bearing in mind that these decks are all over twenty years old, with a bit of care they will last for many more years. and the rims;

This is about a tractor I got a couple years ago for Christmas. This is what it looked like before we started restoring it. We're restoring it because I wanted to put new decals on it and dad was tired of messing around with the engine. We started last Friday because plowing season was almost over here and we figured why not start now. We cleared a spot in the shed and put it on a bench so I could take it apart. We finished on Sunday the same weekend. Dad was cleaning parts with the wire wheel, while I was taking it apart. Dad started sandblasting on Monday and painted every day that week. Dad got most of it done Friday night, so I could get started putting it back together on Saturday. I put as much as I could together that day. We still need some transmission seals, a front rim and a clutch rod and stud. Dad also ordered me a new engine and parts to make new tie rods. I thought Dad was crazy when he made me clean the rust off the lift lever with Brillo pads and Coke! It worked like magic! We also flushed the transmission with lacquer thinner to remove the 46 year old fluid. I will post more when the parts come and we install them.

Saw this on another site, a nice 'better-idea' to control plowing depth.

I know that Brinly is a household name for ground engaging equipment such as plows and they have been around forever (175 years to be exact). I needed a tow-behind sweeper and saw that Brinly makes those to this day. Granted they are a little lighter duty than what was made 40 years ago, but that's just the way it is. I found a tow-behind Brinly sweeper on Craigslist that was New in Box for half the price of a new one. I could not afford a new one, so that was the best option I could have found. Picked up the sweeper in the box, briefly checked it over and seemed good so away I went. I found out later that ALL of the hardware (screws, nuts, bots, pins) was missing. Call the seller up and hes good about it and offers me another one that he had already built and used once. Picked that one up and it looked fine. Got it home, its broken! The height adjustment is jammed (looks like the metal frame was bent). Called the seller AGAIN and he thought I was nuts, so I took it to him and showed him. He stood behind it and I took the "new in box" one back and he refunded some of my money. Its hard to find a craigslist seller that will work with you like that! Granted, I drove a more than 200 miles just to be back where I started, but still cheaper than a new one from Home Depot. Now to Brinly: I shoot an email off to Brinly explaining the situation and trying to see if I could purchase replacement hardware, and a couple tubes that were missing. I get an email the next morning from a very nice lady that sent me ALL the missing hardware free of charge OVERNIGHT! I know it was like $30 or $40 worth of parts I was missing. If anyone owns one of these, they know how much a pain the spring-rods are that hold the bag up in the back when you want to fold or unfold the bag. She even is sending me their new "folding spreader bars" that allow you to fold and unfold the unit without the spring rods! All I have to do is drill a pair of holes in the top tubes, the bottom holes are already there. So all this to say: I am buying Brinly and I recommend you do too! It is hard to find a company these days with that much integrity and willingness to help. Thanks for sticking with the long story!

This is my first attempt at making sense of the information on the ID tags of Wheel Horse tractors assembled by Amnor in Belgium, in attempting to do so there were some issues that needed consideration. When a single product is manufactured on a continuous production line it is simple to allocate serial numbers sequentially. Where a range of products like different tractors and attachments are manufactured in batches rather than continuously it becomes more of a challenge so one might have expected discrepancies. In the event it appears that they did a reasonable job in this respect at the Amnor factory, more so than many believe though I anticipate a slight jumble around the year boundaries as the list grows. The main source of confusion appears to stem from two things. WH model numbers indicate a ‘year’ but this was not the calendar year. Like the auto industry, the new model was introduced before the end of the calendar year probably October in the case of Wheel Horse. For example, even if an original bill of sale indicates 1972, the tractor could still be a 1973 model. The second factor adding to this confusion is where owners put a ‘year’ to a tractor based on the decals or some other feature rather than the model (and hence year) given on the ID plate. These two things turned out to be more significant than serial number discrepancies in unraveling the story. By using the model year in a serial number list, differences between what was built and badged for the European market compared to the US become easier to identify and patterns emerge. It also becomes clear that the serial sequence was actually pretty good. Amnor serials ver 01.pdf [version 01 April 10 2014] I don’t claim to have answered all of the mysteries surrounding assembly in Belgium but it’s a start and has only been possible as a result of owners responding to my requests for details. The list really needs to be much longer and contain examples of other models so if you own tractor(s) and or attachment(s) with an Amnor ID plate please respond either in this thread or by pm and I will update the list. A few footnotes to end with. It can be seen from the list that from time to time models specific to Europe were produced with different engine or transmission than used in the US. On occasions unexpected engines are reported e.g. the 1980 model C-165 Auto which has a KT 17 engine. Given that by 1980 a suffix to the model number was used to indicate variants so that the correct spares could be ordered, I think it most likely that this was a repower rather than factory fitment otherwise the model on the plate would be 01-16KS 92 (as it was badged as a C-165) or even perhaps 01-17KS 91. The Amnor serial sequence is continuous and spans the years that the factory was in operation. It appears to have started at perhaps 11,001. In a way there is nothing unusual about that as serial sequences do not always start at 000001. Wherever it actually started made sense to someone and perhaps it reflects a number greater than the number of tractors exported to Europe pre 1969. G D Mountfield serials had reached at least 2117 by then and that’s just for the UK so there may be something in this thought. Some models were never produced at Amnor including, I believe, the D series and GT-14 which, in the case of the UK, were probably shipped direct to Mountfield from the US to a UK port rather than via Belgium. Possibly there were other models that were never assembled in Europe but only Mountfield’s records which no longer exist would show this. Some models assembled in Belgium were supplemented by tractors assembled in the US. Feedback is most welcome; also more examples are needed to add to the list. Ideally I need the serial and model number from the ID plate. If it’s a tractor, the engine fitted and what the tractor was badged as (in terms of decals) is also useful. I will update the list in this post when more members contribute their tractor information. Andy

This may be a weird question but will a C-165 fit in the back of a Ram1500 w/ a 8ft bed? My first wheel horse I am going to pick up Sunday so I am not familiar with their size!!! Thank you!

Well...after seeing Marshall Fyffe's 1054 several years ago...I've been wanting one. Well...last November Dave Tallon spotted one near Champaign, IL and told me about it. To my surprise it was delivered almost to my door fairly cheap. Since then I've added 3 more 1054's. The first one from November was actually a 1054A and the others are 1054. Two are just parts tractors however one could be a runner if I had an engine. Was able to get a new grille insert laser cut and hope to add it later. Still need to fix the one with mower deck as it had a bad tank. Took the tank of parts tractor and hope to have it back running next week.

Just picked up a nice new 6.5x12 cross country from the local dealer. really digging it, already used it to haul lumber for my new back deck. I was between these and sure trac, but the price was right, the dealer treated me better, and I really liked the welded in tie down loops. Still liked some of the sure trac stuff, just couldn't justify a $350 price premium. The pic is from the dealers site when I bought it.

Nice lookin truck, Steve!............ One of these in your receiver would look pretty good too. Terry made the decal.

Dont know about the mole thingy, but if its like that "ultrasonic pest repeller" --- well, probably best to just save your money...and get Craigs solution.

You pass them driving fords.

This is what produces the tapping noise that keeps the critters out of my yard. http://www.beeman.com/store/product.asp?ret_id=1240879&pid=66381

Are you serious Craig? I had not heard that. I can't believe they would stop making "Fleet Trucks". BTW...this thing has the 6 speed trans and is supposed to get 20+ mpg...34 gal tank= 680 miles...1 tank of gas to the Penn show. :happy-jumpeveryone: Martin...it is supposed to rain Saturday...that is why it is not washed. It rained just enough Wednesday to get it dirty. This color does show the dirt.

looks great Steve! so are you enjoying it? looks like you might need to wash it, i see a spot........

Click on the pict to enlarge...wheel is adjustable.

So here's what I ended up with.

I had the same problem on a 312. I thought it was a broken baffle or pipe, so I took a STRONG magnet and dragged it around the outside to see if I could pull whatever was broken around. It would also tell me what area the problem might be located in. Unfortunately I got no answer so I took the muffler off and shook it, and there was the rattle. A rock got in the muffler. Was it an accident (pretty hard for a rock to fly perfectly into the muffler output) or was it one of my daughters just wasting time? Either way the problem was solved.

Well this one should only see the 60" deck and 2 stage blower. Does that count as work ? Cleat

I put an electric clutch on my C-175 without any issues. The end of the crankshaft should have a tapped hole in it. Bolt in that holds the clutch on. There is one bracket that bolts to the engine bearing plate. I am looking for a service manual covering electric PTO. If your crank has no hole SB#126 tells how to drill and tap the crank. Manuals are on page 6 of the wheelhorse manuals in the manual section here

Hi ive just got insurance from the NFU fully comp £53 a year . Great people . See you at Great dorset steam fair

We're working out the details for Mentone, I want to go this year.

The best thing to do is pull the heads, Then use a set of bore gauges with Digital calipers and Mic the Cylinder walls in several places. Write them down and do an average. Compare that average against engine Specs. If you are within Tolerance Go for the ring job possibly new piston and rings deglazing the Cylinder. Also while heads off check the valves. Stick a piece of notebook paper and rotate flywheel and let the valves close when they do try and remove paper if it rips valves are most likely will give you a good indication if they are good. Good Luck on her these pictures are from my 417A. ~Duke

Isn't That the Truth! ~Duke

There's a show everyday here on

So I was driving down the back roads of sunny and windy Pa yesterday. When I spotted a tiller sitting along side of a garage fairly close to the road. I had to stop. Turns out the guy got it and was going to make it work on his tractor (non WH). He said he has had it sitting around for a while and was just going to scrap it. it was sitting upside down and I said I was going to try the same thing. When we flipped it over I thought it would work on a WH but wasn't sure. we loaded it and the more I thought about it, it looked a lot like a WH tiller. Sure enough I scored me a WH tiller for free. It does need some work but hey... Free is ME!

The complete one,minus grill and seat looks familiar...and it looks right at home in your line up. I am glad it found a good home.

hey hey I hooked you up with the ramps. That trailer was actually a nice little trailer, some nice features. This one is sweet, spring assit gate, tubed gate, ez lube hubs, high mounted lighting. And the gate works just right. Btw Big Jim and Uncle Bo were some of the best I have ever dealt with. Had a big tex last year, I bought it used cheap and only bought it to flip it, they are nice, but all of the sudden new they are demanding big money more than the other dealer brands, good trailers, love the round tube rail top, built really well. My only problem was the local dealer had the same size trailer and it was $500 more (w/ tax and tags over $2K YIKES!!!), yet they did have IH Red and JD Green, cool but not $500 cool, black is easier to touch up. And I have been WH-less for about a 6 months, dont worry a 312 is on the way

Nice trailer Will. Looks like the rear gate is a little short ..... Just kidding. For those of you who are not aware, a few years back Will had a trailer with a short rear gate on it that he did a barter with my late father and my old man never let him live it down..... The gate on that trailer was short and tractors would bottom out with a mower deck on them so my old man had to use ramps.

The plastic fender design was originally intended to coordinate with the new black hood design. Perhaps, the first picture shows it best. Most of them cracked easily and people liked the looks of the metal ones better anyway. The original 1978 and 1979 plastic fenders on the new design black hood C-161 twin Briggs tractors were much thicker and made from a different plastic. I thought I read Lexan but not sure about that. This is my 1979 C-161 twin eight speed with plastic hood and fender. Rumor is Cecil's son was a Corvette fan so maybe that is where the plastic came from? There is absolutely no rust on the hood or the fender on this tractor and there never will be. The original owner took very good care of this tractor and I just have it stored for now, The hood, fender, and seat are flawless. The engine runs like a top. The marks on the top of the black hood in the second picture wiped right off. The back of the 3,4,500 series fender is slightly different than the original C-175 metal fender but only purists like me would know or care. There is no lip along the bottom edge.

Nice trailer. My neighbor has 2 open landscape type trailers but they are box-store cheapies, they get the job done but are flimsy. I have stood on the corner of his bigger trailer and the whole thing twists like the frame is bending. I have a 6.5x12 Big-Tex that has been great! Mike.............

At the height of my collecting I had 17 tractors at one time and they were all in either my workshop or garage. I probably have had over 50 in total. I refused to let them sit outside in the weather. It got to a point that I could no longer do any work in my shop or get anything in or out of the garage without moving tractors around. That's when I knew I would have to solve my addiction problem. It killed me do it but I started to sell off my prize tractors. As time went by, it got easier and I realized that because of my property (house is built into a hillside and a very small yard) I could no longer have a collection. I'm kind of an all or nothing guy so I decided that collecting for me was over. It sucks because I really enjoyed it especially the hunt! I even sold off my beloved Senior (but that's a whole other story I don't care to think about!). I'm down to just 2 now. My first RJ which I put 6 months or restoration into and a lot of money I'll never get back and my diesel Lawn Ranger which I have a ton of hours into and just love! I won't ever sell these as I bring them to the local shows and tractor parades. I sometimes give some guys (especially SteveBo) a hard time when they buy another tractor but in reality I'm just depressed and jealous that I can't do the same. I could but I think it was worse for me when I did have more. I think for now I have found the best balance. Just my $.02

i think you would be hard pressed to beat the value in Matts foot control. Im sure he spent a whole bunch of time getting it right. I like to fabricate and do so on a regular basis, but for me to pay what the kit cost on the last group buy was worth every bit of not messing around getting something to work....... i guess it depends on what value you put on your time, some like the challenge and good luck to you. if i wasn't so busy with work and tractor rebuilds i would enjoy the challenge too.....

Matt's foot control kit is great! I've got two 520H tractors with it installed - really nice.

I am in the process of making a receiver mount for shallowwatersailers lift crane. I have built the first one for him and will be offering them in my Vendor spot soon. If any one is interested in one please email me or PM me for pricing. Thanks Tom

Here are a couple of photos of my latest attachment for Tom and Scott's 2" receiver hitch. I bought the Suitcase Weight bracket from Greg Parnow (Heavy Hitch.) It is a perfect match for the 2" hitch. It can hold up to six suitcase weights (43 lbs. each.) My Lowe's only had two in stock. This is on my C-105 which serves as my backup plow and general plow year-round. I needed some weight on the rear as both of my 5xis have wheel weights installed. Santa has indicated that "she" is bringing a pair of Ags for the C-105 this year! On my shelf waiting for an install is the hitch for the 520-H that I received this week with the 2nd 5xi hitch close behind. Tom is also fabricating a receiver mount for my HF crane. I'll post pictures when I get it. These really increase the versatility of the tractors.

Today I used the 518xi with the 2" hitch to move my three wheeled Cub Cadet. The new owner is picking it up next weekend (I hope.) He took the missing wheel this past summer to repair a flat but hasn't come back since! I thought it justified getting a HF Pickup Crane. The crane is jury-rigged for now but shows the versatility of the hitch. Go Bears!

Now there's an attachment you don't see everyday. After it's set up, can we see a little video of that one in action?