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Heading to camp in the morning. Have to scout for trout again. (Plus sample the keg of Lionshead)! Back on Tuesday fully refreshed with a liver full of new scars! Going after the native Browns on our wild trout stream Saturday morning then hitting the stocked streams later in the day! Here is a native Long Run Brown!

I know that Brinly is a household name for ground engaging equipment such as plows and they have been around forever (175 years to be exact). I needed a tow-behind sweeper and saw that Brinly makes those to this day. Granted they are a little lighter duty than what was made 40 years ago, but that's just the way it is. I found a tow-behind Brinly sweeper on Craigslist that was New in Box for half the price of a new one. I could not afford a new one, so that was the best option I could have found. Picked up the sweeper in the box, briefly checked it over and seemed good so away I went. I found out later that ALL of the hardware (screws, nuts, bots, pins) was missing. Call the seller up and hes good about it and offers me another one that he had already built and used once. Picked that one up and it looked fine. Got it home, its broken! The height adjustment is jammed (looks like the metal frame was bent). Called the seller AGAIN and he thought I was nuts, so I took it to him and showed him. He stood behind it and I took the "new in box" one back and he refunded some of my money. Its hard to find a craigslist seller that will work with you like that! Granted, I drove a more than 200 miles just to be back where I started, but still cheaper than a new one from Home Depot. Now to Brinly: I shoot an email off to Brinly explaining the situation and trying to see if I could purchase replacement hardware, and a couple tubes that were missing. I get an email the next morning from a very nice lady that sent me ALL the missing hardware free of charge OVERNIGHT! I know it was like $30 or $40 worth of parts I was missing. If anyone owns one of these, they know how much a pain the spring-rods are that hold the bag up in the back when you want to fold or unfold the bag. She even is sending me their new "folding spreader bars" that allow you to fold and unfold the unit without the spring rods! All I have to do is drill a pair of holes in the top tubes, the bottom holes are already there. So all this to say: I am buying Brinly and I recommend you do too! It is hard to find a company these days with that much integrity and willingness to help. Thanks for sticking with the long story!

One of the best videos I came across in a long time..... fascinating Click here: New Tab

So I was driving down the back roads of sunny and windy Pa yesterday. When I spotted a tiller sitting along side of a garage fairly close to the road. I had to stop. Turns out the guy got it and was going to make it work on his tractor (non WH). He said he has had it sitting around for a while and was just going to scrap it. it was sitting upside down and I said I was going to try the same thing. When we flipped it over I thought it would work on a WH but wasn't sure. we loaded it and the more I thought about it, it looked a lot like a WH tiller. Sure enough I scored me a WH tiller for free. It does need some work but hey... Free is ME!

The plastic fender design was originally intended to coordinate with the new black hood design. Perhaps, the first picture shows it best. Most of them cracked easily and people liked the looks of the metal ones better anyway. The original 1978 and 1979 plastic fenders on the new design black hood C-161 twin Briggs tractors were much thicker and made from a different plastic. I thought I read Lexan but not sure about that. This is my 1979 C-161 twin eight speed with plastic hood and fender. Rumor is Cecil's son was a Corvette fan so maybe that is where the plastic came from? There is absolutely no rust on the hood or the fender on this tractor and there never will be. The original owner took very good care of this tractor and I just have it stored for now, The hood, fender, and seat are flawless. The engine runs like a top. The marks on the top of the black hood in the second picture wiped right off. The back of the 3,4,500 series fender is slightly different than the original C-175 metal fender but only purists like me would know or care. There is no lip along the bottom edge.

Got one of the 520's done and out for a drive. Matt's pedal kit works great. Decal kits from redo your horse are here and will be applied in a while. Cleat

The friends came out this year with the fisher on the f250

I bought the same sweeper used for $50 a couple of years ago. And I mean used!!' I needed new drive pinions and the sent me new ones along with new gears free!!!

Just an off the cuff suggestion but try surfing the tourism chamber of commerce and state park sites for Pa and the surrounding area you should be able to go into information overload mode pretty quickly and then you can try for more detailed information from the locals/natives about the things that interest you

I recently got the larger tire changer from HF (with a %25 coupon was only like $35) (I dont think the small one will do a 12") and have already used it on some 12 -14 12" and 10-12 8" and while not too impressive on removing the tire from the rim, it broke the tires loose right quick on 6 of those 12's that were the gnarliest/rustified/crusted up messes I've ran into, and breaking the bead was always my biggest headache. I can peel the tire off the rim quicker just working off the ground with 2 spoons and a big hammer (the tool that comes with the changer works really well for that) As I was leaving the HF store I cruised around back and picked up a 42" skid/pallet and mounted the changer to it. I think it was money well spent.

Koen and Bobie, I learnt French when I was at school many years ago (I am 61 years old now). I hated it and my teachers didn't think I was good at it but I proved them wrong and got a better grade (more points) in French than I did in English! Being able to communicate in more than one language is one of the greatest things you can achieve at school. Hanging around RS is a good way to become more confident about using English, certainly reading and writing even if you don't feel confident about speaking it but that will come later. I admire you both for the way you take part in a language that is not your own. Andy

I am looking at a 418-A for sale. It has the Kohler twin with 1650 hours, 48 in deck, a single stage snowblower, chains and wheel weights. It says it includes all manuals and is in good condition. They are asking $1,250. I have no experience with this engine, or what this model came with. Any idea what it might be worth?

Just picked up a nice new 6.5x12 cross country from the local dealer. really digging it, already used it to haul lumber for my new back deck. I was between these and sure trac, but the price was right, the dealer treated me better, and I really liked the welded in tie down loops. Still liked some of the sure trac stuff, just couldn't justify a $350 price premium. The pic is from the dealers site when I bought it.

Thank you I think it may staying in my shop and add a little 551 next to it good pair...

Might consider replacing your shifter boot too, if it's all dry rotted, and cracked. Especially if it's stored outdoors, will prevent water from getting into the trans from the top.

I have a question, it runs good but the muffler and small piece of pipe turns cherry red after its been run for a while. Is this normal? Wasn't sure if that meant it was running rich or the timing or points were off? Anybody have any experience with this?

I would have bet it would have taken at least a week but guess not. Jason I can't believe you listed it on Ebay already! Feel sorry for the new member you bought it from. Let this be a lesson to anyone else who is selling something. Be careful WHO you sell to and please ask for advice on somethings value before you do so! It may be worth a lot more then you think.

I'll bet that cost a boat load of money to do.

If you just bought the tractor...your problem is the belt and pulleys...not the trans. Changing the oils is a good idea, but I would see how the oil is first. If it is clean, I would not run diesel of something else in there...just drain and put in new. If you have a cloudy oil coming out...then yes...flushing the trans is in order. If the belt is old...replace it...clean the pulley grooves on the engine, tension pulley and input trans pulley with mineral spirits. They are probably just gummed up and need cleaning. This is an easy fix...if this is the problem...do this and let us know. Your problem is a sticking belt. You could wipe the belt very lightly with mineral spirits also...the key word here is lightly...just enough to clean it a little. This assumes that you have the belt guard on and the tabs are in place. Leave the trans alone for the moment until we see if this is in fact the problem. One thing at a time. You stated that it grinds when trying to put it into gear. This means the belt has not stopped turning the input pulley on the trans when you push in the clutch. The belt guard funnels slack from the belt towards the engine pulley when you push in the clutch. If the pulleys are sticky from setting and/or the belt...these need to be cleaned. It does not take much to clean them...but use mineral spirits on the pulleys and the belt....lightly on the belt. If the belt is old...replace it...but you could try wiping it first to see if that helps fixes the problem. Do the easy stuff first...there is nothing wrong with your trans for the problem you state. Let us know what you find.

Same thing happens when you get a pick-up!

Those trailers are excellent for moving tractors to shows and etc...plus whatever else you need to haul around. It is also great for all your friends, that you never knew you had, to help move their stuff. You will not be sorry you bought that. Need a sign..."Will move for BEER".

Im with KATO and Paul. Change oil, first and foremost. It should smooth out the transmission a lot. Then check belt size and that the idler/tensioner is moving properly when you hit the pedal.

if the alum push rods wear out so fast how come sixty year old motors are still running good with the original one in them change your oil once a year with a good grade 30wt and yours will last that long too Brian

I just found this thread, and I'm so excited to follow it, I love music! I listen to all genres of music, but lately I've been in an instrumental kinda mood.

Took the blower off the C-120 and turned him loose with the rake and sweeper for several hours.

Is this a new problem ? or is the tractor new to you ? Did you recently put a new belt on ? maybe its the wrong size (too short) . Maybe theres too much slop in the belt tensioner

Not WD40 I would drain the transmission and see what the oil looked like. Is it milky looking (Chocolate milk) if so it has water in it and probably some rust in the transmission. The best fix is to pull th transmission split it and clean it out thoroughly and check all the bearings for any damage from water/rust. A quicker fix (though not as good) would be to refill the tranny with some diesel fuel and run it around for few minutes (lightly no hard work) then completely drain it and refill with fresh oil. My Lawn Ranger has teh same 5053 transmission and has run for 47 years on 2 or maybe 3 tranny oil changes shifts smoothly even in the winter. WH originally specified 40w motor oil for the tranny. Over the years they changed to 90w gear oil (or 90-140). Mine has run just fine on the 40w motor oil and has been in use that entire period I am not changing.

Kelly I was hopin you'd post a pic of that C-195! Totally BAD TO THE BONE.

Yay! Techy power.

Now that's clean! Eastern PA is still, my opinion, still too wet 'n soggy for the Stallions to start cleaning. Right now the Horses are fixin' the stone drives; too much winter dozin'! Your cleanup is lookin' great!

Wow! Looks like you're making hay!

First off @ Digger66 - Great tip about the split fuel line to protect edge! To avoid the time to split the fuel line pick up some edge guard like this link or door trim used on car doors. Not too expensive and ready to use. The smoother the better, softer rubber may not let the tool slide easily around the rim. I would point out that your method would depend the condition of your rims and whether you want the inner part of the rim to be painted(inside the tire). If you ever plan on loading the tires with fluid for weight, I would highly recommend painting all surfaces to protect them. This will almost definitely require removal of the tires. Obviously this would not be an issue if using tubes. If that is not a concern or your using tubes then you can do like RacinBob said but instead of index cards an old deck of playing cards will work the same.

Yes they are. I played with it some more and got it in.gear and drove around. Its a little easier now but still a little stiff. Could just be because it was made in 69 lol

Just having at look at getting insurance now from NFU James

we discussed this it was to prove a point to the who offered me 500$ for the machine!! steve your the fuel on the fire hahaah....

1994 520-H all original.

Congratulations to UCONN...they beat a lot of good teams that beat a lot of good teams...very cool. WOW...March Madness is alive and well. BTW...I picked a perfect bracket pool...only because I entered the teams after they won. AND MICHIGAN IS STILL OVER RATED...WATCH OUT FOR ILLINOIS AND KENTUCKY NEXT YEAR....FRESHMAN TEAMS.!! Quite honestly...the Big Ten did well...and so did the SEC...can't wait for next year. And YES...UCONN (now an AAC team) who was a BIG EAST CONFERENCE team (hope that is right) DID IT!!! CONGRATULATIONS TO THEM. The Connecticut guys on the forum are going to be hard to live with at the Big Show this year. I know that I am going to wear my CHICAGO BLACKHAWKS (STANLEY CUP CHAMPIONS 2013) jersey at the show...just so I don't have to hold my head between my legs. These guys are Boston Bruins fans also...and guess who the Blackhawks beat (4 games to 2). I know...grabbing at straws...but I need a straw to stir my cocktail at the show.

Both 520 hoods came back from the neighbour after being painted and clear coated. Fenders are painted but not clearcoated yet. Starting to look more like tractors again. Will let paint dry for a while then on go the decals. Cleat

There should be a hardened washer each side of the thrust needle bearings. Torrington thrust bearing catalog (15 pages of 356) Garry

Install a THRUST BEARING like thiis one in the two front wheel spindles....between the cast iron axle and the 3/4" vertical spindle shaft. A pack of the just sold on ebay. # 9862 may or may not be the right part number...but it is a bearing like this that will help with the steering.

or.... blast them, powder coat them and mount them up without the worry of damaging paint...... (and not waiting for the paint to harden either.....)

Mounting up new tires is awfully hard on new paint... blast 'em, mount 'em, then paint 'em up.

Im fairly certain im going to have my wheels blasted and powder coated when the time comes. Just cant beat the durability of that stuff.

Since your going to have the tires off, I would blast. They turn out real nice when done.

I sandblasted mine , primed , then painted . Granted my tires were off .

I spent some more time today putting on more bits and pieces. Here are some general views. I want to wait a little longer before mounting the front tires to allow paint to dry some more. Deck lift rod is also hanging to allow the bellcrank paint to dry. Cleat

Ryan. I do not know if this will help you or not. Go to this web page. https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm. put in 79370 for serial number and 3999999 for a model number and you will be able to download a manual for a tiller.