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After pulling the plow and disc, the 520H works in the horse manure.

That's some fun stuff! I plan on making a garden this year. I'll be honest, I don't have all that much of an idea on what I am doing I'd just say don't take any pointers or examples from me! , but hey, we all have to start some where! I got some video and some pictures. I'll upload some pics here at a later date, but here's the video(s) that my dad shot of me! Hope you all enjoy!

keeping the motor and inside of the guards clean will do more for you than cutting holes in the belt guard

I bet the mid grader blade has only been used a couple times! The tiller has hardly seen any use either!

One of the best videos I came across in a long time..... fascinating Click here: New Tab

I had a few of the kids out today to play

A while back I posted an old blurry pic of my grandpa's horse hoping someone could identify the model. I was able to find a better pic, but I still don't know enough about them to recognize the model. Hopefully one of you will know what it is. The first pic is the original one I posted, the other pics were taken in the early 70's.

Ya gotta watch those guys with the whiskers! You never know what's hiding in the hedge rows!

Paint the wheels, have the tires mounted, leaving the air out. By leaving out air, masking will be much easier for touch up. When finished add air.

nice vid, maybe next time you go plowing sand the mouldboard first so it nice and shiny bare metal, the soil will roll better that way, and maybe go a bit slower oh and next time start in the middle and work round. Koen

I don't know what rules/laws are different on your side of the pond.......... I just found out yesterday that if I am a member ($10 fee) to one of the area clubs, I am automatically covered at their shows....Otherwise, you have to have $500.000 liability insurance......For $10, I am now a card carrying member!

1985 417A with 48" SD

What we are dealing with is trying to get is Efficient Heat Transfer as Ed and Kyle mentioned Dirt and Blocked Fins grass clippings or whatever is the NO #1 thing that causes heat build up. You can do all the Lover cutting fabrication or whatever you want and that stuff is miniscule and secondary if you cant get the air across these metal parts. After your engine is clean Yes by all means vent the Belt Guard with a louver. I have delt with Heat Transfer for 36 Years now as an HVAC contractor And the main thing we stress is Equipment being Clean whether it being a Condenser Coil, Evaporator Coil, A Blower, Or heat exchanger. Any part that comes in contact with heat that needs to be transferred away internally or externally needs to be clean these same principals apply to our engines. All the Engine tins that direct airflow over the heads need to be secure and in place along with the Gasket around the oil filter. ~Duke

At the end of my formation as an industrial mechanic, I had to plan and build a ball sorting machine. seen here is my solution. Specifications were: max 3 kg, max 250x250x250 mm and at a turn a ball should be sorted by a lift.The diameter of the balls are 4, 5 and 6mm. The graduation project I have already passed, unfortunately I do not know yet my points.

I am on a quest for an enclosed trailer. I started looking for a 6x14 but was told 5 tractors would be too much weight. So next was a 7x14 tandem axle, I figure I can get 5 in, for a couple hundred more I could go 7x16 and get 6 plus attachments. Main use will be for storage, also going to shows with a place to sleep. Most used trailers here are overpriced or pretty rusty. Confusion is starting to set in, want to do it right the first time. Show me what you are using. Thanks Tom

Isn't manure is it?

And the Dog approves too! Cant beat that.

that B-80 looks at home there

It is a 1962 machine with that front axle. and has Tecumseh elect. start engine so only thing it can be is a 552 minor correction being a 62 it would be a Lauson engine but same thing as a Tecumseh for the most part 62 was the last year for the Lauson name, and the head lights are not factory

I will be there! This will be my first time to the WHCC. cantwaitcantwaitcantwait! Now, to decide what to bring......

Looks like it spring break at the frat house.

Pictures is the first thing. It would take me awhile to cipher the numbers you posted. Im sure someone while chime in before I figure it out

That is a great picture...I know a few guys that look like that... For one...Lane's brother Dave...dead ringer. Same mother...different fathers.

At least...it is not an all SEC final...this should be a good game Monday night. and Michigan was over-rated.

My disguise didn't work - you found me !! I was hanging back - you guys were doing great with the discovery process. Measuring AC between the two AC terminals on the regulator will tell you the health of the stator. Anything above 32 volts at full throttle will charge a battery Two of the terminals are shorted together INTERNALLY inside the regulator. B+ and one of the AC terminals are physically connected inside the reg. It may be important to know which two are connected just for the sake of clarity for future troubleshooting. In the Kohler regs, it's the two terminals stacked on each other. I'm not sure about which two on the Onan style regs. Ed, if you know which two are connected, post it here. Let's say we use an orientation of "lookibg down on the reg, terminals pointing toward the person making the measurement". The image below is what we confirmed as proper wiring of the charge and tach circuits some time ago. The question of why DC and AC exist together on the B+ relates to what the tachometer uses as a reference to make its measurement. The Tach will block any DC signal due at its input as it only senses variation in AC voltages, not DC voltage levels. The DC voltage drop you measure thru the tach is most likely from protection diodes inside the tach housing. The clipper circuit acts as a signal limiter for the incoming 30 + AC signal and cuts the 30 VAC signal "off at the knees" when it exceeds 5 volts + or - . The clipped signal is then fed to the circuitry for the RPM measurement. . http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/6.html The tach uses 12 volts DC for powering the internal circuits and uses the FREQUENCY of the stator AC output as it's "signal" to be measured. Remember , the FREQUENCY of the AC signal, not the VOLTAGE level of the AC. In your particular case, if the tins of the engine are grounded properly and the reg grounded properly to the tins, replace the regulator. They do seem to suffer frequent failures than the Kohler style regs.

Come on Kelly, your snow is gone ( for now)

The most fun you can have with your clothes on You need to set your coulter wheel just in front of the shovel so it will cut the sod before it rolls over

I have always been impressed by my son's wheelhorse four wheel wagon . Great for kids rides and to haul heavy loads like firewood around. However they don't show up very often and when they do they are pricey. Just looking around on Craigslist in my area the other day i came across this pretty close to me but still pricey. Looking for others from same manafacturer I came across same one on eBay. Made him an offer of about half the asking price and within 10 minutes had an invoice to pick it up. Precision Products 17-Cubic Ft Front-Wheel Steering Trailer Cart - $400 (Freehold) Pickup at our Freehold Warehouse New--- There is a small dent on the removable gate of the wagon from shipping. Does not affect functionality. Still easily slides out. Replacement piece can be ordered from manufacture. Please see photos. 17-cubic foot trailer dump cart Tow behind tractor or trailer; includes removable rear tail gate Holds up to 2,000 pounds Solid steel axle with steel bed; maneuverable front-wheel steering Model Number: LC1900

I bought one of these wagons about 7 years ago, well made and versatile. http://www.ohiosteel.com/farmers.html

Thanks Scott. I appreciate the update. As all have said you are doing a great job with these kids and seeing the girls in there getting there hands dirty makes it extra special.... Keep up the GREAT work!

I think I'm going to try one (or 2) of these: http://www.westmarine.com/interior-vents/west-marine--louvered-3-hose-vent-black--280829 I looked at it in person, and it would be easy to cut off the 'tube' part that protrudes from the back of the louver.. since it is flanged, with holes for screws, it would be easy to mount, and IMO wouldn't look too 'homemade' (Not criticizing others work AT ALL... I like all the ideas here to make things work better, just throwing my idea into the ring) OR maybe one of these... I have to check these out too: http://www.westmarine.com/west-marine--louvered-ventilators--P000282320

Hi Neil thanks for the info most shows ask for it now as you know. I am just filling a form out now for the Great dorset steam fair and they are asking for my insurance docs . I have will some insurance by mid week as this is my dream place to show at. Thanks once again.

Thanks Martin I probably won't be catching up with the powder coater for some time yet, but will pass on his thoughts when I do. I think it would definitely help to weather the galv for some time, years even. I am not fussed about the look of this deck, it is for work. I have a really good one that will be powder coated and restored, but probably not used. I had some small parts zinc plated a few years back and was disappointed with how quickly they faded. It was also expensive. I am lucky with my current 520 rebuild that most of the original zinc plating is still in good condition. Bolts are all new zinc. I was hoping to fit the decal for the choke / throttle panel this weekend, but ran out of time. Terry made up the new decal and I got it last week. Will update the thread on that one when I get a bit more done.

Hi Gazza You can get isurance for your tractor from NFU at around £40 to 50 for a year or you could try Cherished Car Insurance. 01252 713148. quite easy to do If you intend to drive the tractor around the showground you will need insurance , some shows will allow you to exhibit without insurance if you just have a static display .

That would be my '95 314-8 with my recently acquired rear discharge deck (not pictured)

Thank you so much for following along. I appreciate you taking the time each week to check in and see what is going on. We were able to get back to work on the machine this week. Unfortunately we were delayed a bit because tools were misplaced. Due to the down time I had a small issue with a few of the boys getting restless which led to some horseplay. Of course that doesn't mix well within a shop setting. One young man somehow bounced his head off the edge of the oil pan that was on a cart. He ended up with a good little goose egg. The young man received a stern talk and the parents were made aware of the incident. I have a good feeling that this behavior will not happen again! Due the fact that we had some unfortunate hiccups at the beginning of club, I neglected to snap some photos. I did haul up my 603 that I have been wanting to redo. I am letting the kids tear it apart. I will pay for everything on this one, have it blasted and powder coated, and then let the kids put it back together. This will keep more hands busy which will help distract from unnecessary horseplay. This one will have a special place in my collection. We are now on Spring Break so the next update will not be until the 16th. Thanks so much for following along! Here is the 603 before they started tearing it down.

The ROTARY mower will only work up to 15mph. Just put a sharp straight blade on that thing and it will cut grass probably BETTER than the rotary at 100mph!

Unfortunately I don't use my horse for grass cutting duties. I only have .5 acre and the mower I use is way overkill anyways. I got this thing (hydro 36" walk behind) for a SERIOUS deal and its not a looker but mechanically perfect. It just is not fun trying to pull-start a 14hp Kawasaki when its below 50 F outside. The horse will get sweeping, dethatching, aerating, and cart duty in the summer.

Here's a couple awesome 1963... non Kohler powered, round hood mowers here.

I think I'm going to stock up on belt guards..... With all you guys out there cutting them up, there ain't gonna be any good ones left...... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Waiting for updates! Have I missed something? I have really enjoyed this ride!

Don't know which Horse to use so, grandsons exercise 'em all. Needless to say, the Stallions are well exercised and lawn is always trimmed, neat, swept.

i think just by looking at your pic you have narrow rims on there. the tire you say is 6.50 wide and they look like they are on a narrow rim by the way the bead/sidewall is pulled in. you can also measure them to know for sure. heres two of my tractors, both with 16 x 6.5-8 front tires. the first one is on the wider rims..... the second is on the narrower ones.

Thank you everybody, over the last week we have now built a solid frame, also with a removeable tailgate, it's also since then been painted and the floor been put back in, ready for the sides to be painted and added in ASAP. I decided to go red, ... Ahaha! Here's the pictures!

To compliment what Glen said: Depends on what kind of winter weather you deal with: If you get really slippery slush and ice, you need the metal and low contact patch on the chain to bite through to hard surface. If its mostly powdery then ags work great, you just might need to use a little wheel spin and momentum when things get slick. Chains you use low speed because you have high traction (and it DOES scratch up whatever surface you drive on, and will tear up the grass if you spin even a little) In the spring/summer on the grass Ag's in the rear will do well on all but the most mushy of surfaces where the chains can act a little like paddles adding to the ags to help get you through. I vote tri ribs (or 5 rib, like I like, search "V61") in the front. Ags were designed to help pull (4wd) therefore you dont get as great of turning traction because of the angle of the lugs. Think of the tri-ribs as rudders. They will dig in and turn you any way you want to go. Thats not to say the ags dont work, some guys on here run them and love them, but since its a 2WD tractor, I would vote for the tall ribs.

2 Carlisle 23x8.5-12 tru power ag tires with new valve stems. Cost $199.00

search for the duro ag tires for the rear..... i bought these for my son Kents 875. they are duro 23 x 10.50-12 will fit nice on the standard 12 x 7 rims.

I'll be there again with a full load of stuff, I never know what I'm bringing till I put it on the trailer, or stuff the back of the suburban, but the car trailer will be full again.

It's just over 2 hours for me. I may be bringing some new pairs of 18 Automatic, D-160, D-180 and D-200 fender reflectors. Possibly some three point hitch klik pin chain assemblies for the same models and some for the C-195's. Would consider bringing an almost complete 18 Auto "D" series P.T.O shaft with pulley (if there is genuine interest) also have a electric clutch 1-1/8" for GT-14. 1.) Reflectors=$20.00pr. 2.) 18 Auto "D" series 3 point klik pin chain assemblies (Pr)=$12.00 C-195 Klik pin...=$14.00 3.) P.T.O. shaft=$Make offer 4.) GT-14 Clutch=$Make offer 5.) 953/1054(A) Oil Bath Air Cleaner Decal = $ 9.50 {Only 2 left}