Leaderboard

Hey all is there anyway any of you can help me identify this horse. I want to restore one like he had. I am the fourth generation wheel horse owner.

Well I spent Sunday afternoon getting my tiller (Model No. 79370 -Serial No. 3900513 - a 1993 Wheel Horse Tiller) attached to the 1978 Wheel Horse C-121 8 speed tractor I bought three years ago. This tractor has not been run a lot in last three years as a 3000 Watt Wheel Horse Generator was on it during that time. I had to installl the rear lift hitch on the transmission (and make the special clevis pins for locking the hitch on the tiller bar) , bellcrank, lift cable, Spring assist and chain at the top of the tiller to the bellcrank. I attached the Mid-Attach pulleys, the belt for the tiller, checked it out with a short run (not in the soil). I followed and re-read continuously the Tiller Operating and Parts Manual to make sure I was doing things as recommended. I have three different bellcranks and setups for the lift for tractors from 1976 thru later models. We have some of each and the B-100 -1976 Model was the other choice to se the tiller on -but I went with the C-121! For you longtime tiller users, I have a couple questions. How do you know if the tiller has enough gear oil in it? Is there a way to know if the gear oil level is where it should be? Have you ever sharpened the tiller blades for better cutting into the soil? What is the best way to know how deep the tiller should ride in the soil? I know that is the tiller is pushing the tractor forward (according to the manual) that you should raise the tiller out of the ground a bit more until it does not push forward. I am going to have a big vegetable garden this year and probably will have most of the rows in between the size of the rear tiller -so I can limit the hand weeding, etc. Any "lessons learned" from tilling experienced Wheel Horse owners would be appreciated!

I just got back from picking up this nice little all original, one owner 753. From my understanding this was only used to plow. The carb needs to be cleaned, paint up the wheels, free up the cables, find a new square seat and maybe wet sand to see if I can find the original layer of red....Then I will call her done. The steering it tight and tranny shifts nice with no noises. My son claimed it as his already....

The snow melted and temp was 60F this afternoon, so I turned the 520H loose for her first real workout. This is the 520 that you all helped me reconditioned in the New ? Find thread. I want to take this opportunity to again thank Motox 25,G Man, Aussie, Jackhammer, Theroundhousernr, boovuc, and especially Martin for leading me through this effort to the finish. I hooked her to the roller for about two hours and she performed perfectly. I was amazed at the power... she didn't seem to loose any RPM even when I took that roller up the steepest hills I have. Gotta love that steering and the bigger tractor feel. Really like the hydro control when holding up a tongue and moving the tractor in position to drop the pin. The only negative I saw was some speed increase on the downhill. It wasn't excessive, but takes some getting used to. One of my Sundstrands does the same thing, but I was not expecting it from the Eaton. It is definitely a keeper, and will be my snow mover. I may even put a clevis hitch and plow on and turn my lawn into a garden. She still has a lot of wiring issues that need corrected. I just need to decide how many of the goodies I need to get working.

I normally jinx myself by starting build threads because I never finish anything.But I thought I would try it again and see what happens.This is a rough 1056 my dad had that was one of his parts tractors.I figured I would turn it into a two seater similar to Wallfish's that he built.My wife wants something we can ride together on at the shows down here.So,here is were I am as of today.I flipped the frame over to lower it and probably will be lengthening the front of the frame.Anyone make drop spindles?I know I have a lot of working out the details with the steering but I have some ideas in the works.I plan on using one of my rusted plow blades for the rear fenders but also using a golf cart style seat and frame work over the motor with a small bed on back..It will be a little bit longer but should work.Any ideas would be appreciated as I get a little further into it.Sorry for the cell pics as they are all I have at the moment.

real nice lookin tractor,the tiller will kinda find its own depth,soil conditions are every thing,once its worked good she tears through it,full depth,when breaking virgin ground it takes a few passes,sometimes I backup with it,this realy digs,but you need to use the lift when doing this,you will really enjoy the tiller

You guys realize that this years brackets were all messed up because of Global Warming and the fact that our solar system is passing through the plane of the Milky Way Galaxy. It's all about gravity...and oil.

Say Cheese!!! Wisconsin takes it home! Big Ten all the way!

It should be admired and apreciatted that there are people in all corners of the world that can see and realize that the machinery and tools produced at a certain time in this country were of such high quality that many of them over 50 years later are still usable and will still outlast whatever is built anywhere today. We should treat it as a compliment and not be upset by it. It should instead awaken us, not only to preserve what we have, but to also strive to still be able to produce such quality and craftmanship. I have countless times been with people overseas which proudly take me to their barns or garages to proudly show me their American made tractors and machinery and boast how great they still work. Coming from generations of woodworkers in Europe I remember my grandfather having a few American made tools and the reverence with which he treated them.Not everyone was allowed to handle or use them. Well, they have come home!I have inhereted them and so will my children.

Although I really admire and apreciatte many of the incredible restorations seen here by many members in my opinion unless tractor is a total basket case I would not restore it. Many of these old machines have incredible character which can only be achieved with time and use.When looking at a perfect restoration one usually is not admiring it for what it is but in my opinion we are really admiring the care and craftmanship that went into it. However when admiring one with the so called patina which includes the effects of time and usage one really is thinking more of the tractor and of all the great service it has provided to owners. I can say that i actually look at them with respect and admire them rather than one's work put into it. Many of these things actually have "soul" . Keep in mind that after restoring a tractor its usefullness is greatly diminished since one is always going to be hesitant in using for many tasks for the fear of damaging it. Take care of it, preserve it ,use it to its full potential and purpose and everytime you look at it it will grow on you more and more.

As it came off the truck today. Had to remove the bucket to fit it into the shed...you know...gettin' kinda tight in there. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkhSC52S8Nk&list=UUd_ptV1TUpPlW1VhCjxez_Q

We are happy to announce the forum support member discount has been raised to 30% from 25% At this time I have 77 support members registered. there are many more who have not contacted me. or registered. If you are a forum support member and have not registered on my site you can REGISTER HERE make sure to enter your forum username when creating your account so i can verify your support status. Also this year we are offering free shipping on all decal orders to anywhere in the US If you would like to take advantage of this discount and many other benefits of being a forum support member simply go to the forum STORE and pick a support plan that works for you. Thank you all for your support and we look forward to seeing you at the BIG SHOW this year. Sincerely Terry, Lola & Buddy

Tonight I removed the second front rim and then demounted the tires. I took them over to my Pal's Brian's Shop And the MASTER BLASTER gave them a blast from the past. The two fronts came out beautiful the rears were a different story. One of the rims will need a WHOLE LOTTA LOVIN to bring it back. I will need to love it real good with the tig welder, then I'm gonna love it real good with Some Lab Metal. All I can say is there is gonna be a whole lotta lovin going on over at the Duke's Place. Here's some pic's of the Master Blaster at work and the rims. ~Duke LAB METAL LINK BELOW

That sure is a nice setup! Those tines look close to new. I think tilling is more relaxing than cutting grass. x2 on the front weight and I move over halfway for the next pass because the gearbox leaves a strip untilled.

Thanks for sharing the link.

here's a pic of the inside of my tiller after hitting something soils as you can see it's a chain and sprockets and two gears it would probably last for a long time with no oil I meant soilded

Ok I tried the process that Craig posted and I think it may do what I am looking to do. Here are some pics. I think the more times I spray it the deeper the rust color is. Here are a few pics. It works really well. I also install the cyclops light that was on the tractor. It works too. I just need to hook it back up to the switch. For you guys who say RESTORE.... I would like to but I have way too many irons in the fire right now. I know many of them are self inflicted....

below is a link to the owners manual for a tiller they are all pretty close oil level, is in the manual depth, this is a feel thing, if the tiller jumps a lot take shallower passes and make subsequent ones Virgin soil can be difficult I never sharpened the tines, they will sharpen themselves over time you may want to consider front weights, I have a c160 and the front is light without weight

Looking good Lane! We had over 1 1/2" of rain late last week, so no tilling around here!

Sorry for the drama, but not for the humor... but if you give me a little time, I can answer that question. I do not have the time at the moment to answer it in depth...it is something that Mike and I have been working on for years. As you know...TT and a few other guys have been messing with this also. Give me a couple of days, and I will share what I know...just know that I do not know everything.

To accumulate some natural patina Steve... just keep the tins wet, and leave 'em sit out in the weather for awhile. Interesting idea here too.

I thought it was because the Bears signed the wrong QB?

steve how about the polar vortex caused it also lol

you know, not all mobility scooters are electric Koen

Chazm, you forgot the Red Square supporter fees.

everyone should have a loading dock like that in their front yard, then it would be easier to bring home more horses and attachments.

Ya Duke, it's like the old timer told me many years ago, Just look at it, it will tell you what it wants/needs to make it right or how to fix it. Those front hub caps sure look like cup style freeze plugs with nuts brazed on and then installed backwards.

For the engine go to http://www.partstree.com/parts/ Type Tecumseh in the 2nd box and OH140 in the 3rd box. You will get 8 pages of results. Service manual for cast iron engines http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2382-engine-tecumseh-8hp-to-18hp-cast-iron-smpdf/ Garry

And thanks to both Mich teams my family bragging rights just went south...bumped me down to 2nd place but I've still got FL to win it all. What makes it worse is I got beat out by my 6 year old grandson....he is a sports guru for his age but picked Wichia St to win it all..maybe I can beat him yet! I might have to pick KY next year unless all their freshman go PRO!!

Please send $100 for administration fees for Youtube

Battery pan drain on my 520H is a clear tube.

I think that there is a basement floor in that shed.....

I'm really happy! we found the sn plate for this tractor today, It is a 1968.

That shed is a damn portal to another Wheel Horse universe...Its like a clown car for tractors!!!!

Sounds like she is happy for you in the video. Nice loader.

Where Do Old Bumper Cars Go? The ones in Westview Park or Kennywood Park in Pittsburgh or many other amusement parks from around the country in the 50's & 60's. They ran on electric . Had a pole on the back going to a metal electrical charged overhead cage. Remember driving the bumper cars at amusement parks or on the Boardwalk, don't you? They were so much fun. Well, now what do you do with old Bumper Cars? (and check out the license plates!) WHO KNEW? Yes, you read that right; these little beauties are street legal. They run on either Kawasaki or Honda motorcycle engines and co-opt vintage bumper car bodies into the most awesome form of mini-car we've seen in too long. There are seven of these little monsters floating around California and they're all the creation of one man, Tom Wright, a builder in the outskirts of San Diego who figured the leftovers of the Long Beach Pike Amusement Park needed a more dignified end than the trash heap. They were originally powered by two cylinder Harley Davidson Motorcycle engines but they rattled like heck because of the two cylinder Vibration and Tom replaces them with four cylinder Honda or Kawasaki 750's And a couple have been measured as capable of 160 MPH, which is terrifyingly fast in machines with such a short wheelbase. By the way, they are almost indestructible in accidents!

Looks like a nice loader/tractor. Thanks for the video.

Looks good, Craig!

Well, if that is not a keeper, then I have no idea what would be!!!!!

There was a new soldier added to the frontlines here here today.

BOOOO...yah.

Now ,if that Rj 35 is anything to go buy I am sooooooooooooooo looking forward to seeing this finished , infact so much so that i may even ship my RS83 back to US so that you can do mine . Looking forward to having a chat in June at the big show , Hope you manage to save those rims .

Now you done-n-gone and got it dirty!

Thanks for the encouraging words. Much appreciated. Well, its time for another update. I got the wheel weights painted, and on the tractor. While not as nice as OE wheel weight, they're very functional, and look decent. I'm currently running 115 pounds per wheel. I took the tractor out for a good workout today. We decided to expand the garden, and I decided to give the Brinly plow a go. This ground has never been broken before, and our soil is very, very hard to plow, till, etc.. Not to mention, this is the area we have been parking a big class A RV in the past, so it was well packed. While the plow works great, the tractor had a hard time keeping the plow moving. It did it, but it didn't like it! The pics below are of the hard packed soil. After that, I ran the plow through an area that had been broken last year, and it ran down through that like nothing. After breaking the ground with the plow, we hooked the tiller up, and finished it off. I also took a short clip of it tilling. I've ordered a hydraulic flow control valve for this Case, to help with tilling, and such. On Case Garden tractor, the travel control doesn't just increase/decrease speed, it also increases, decreases hydraulic pressure, so when your trying to go slow for tilling, your not putting much power to the ground either, so when you try to slow down, it ends up stopping, so you push the lever farther forward it goes to fast. Its very annoying, especially when your used to working with a that has an 8 speed. Gotta love those low gears on a Horse. Anyway, the travel control I ordered will allow a very slow ground speed, while still maintaining maximum power to the ground. I'll try to get a better video soon. Thanks Matt

posifour11 we are happy for you and will live through your garden until we can get ours going.

Well to clarify, the 603 Specials are made to be a cheaper priced economy tractor. The WH factory had a lot of older style parts sitting in their inventory so they were smart about it and put all different types of older parts in this particular machine. So they used up the old parts such as footrest's from as early as 1960/61 as noted by the early production straight shoe sole type of footrests that dropped down some for a boot heel to fit into and were only made for a short time before they switched to later shoe sole type that are angled outward like the 1961 WH's and didn't step down for the heel but were flat. There is a few 603's around that have the step down type and even more were sold with the flat shoe sole type. But once WH got rid of their older footrests which may not take long, they installed their new stirrup type of footrest's on the 603. They came out in 1962 and they used them for quite a few years. The hood stand on these machines were a 1964 Model year item but it was put on the late production Special Model 603 to start the new style. So the front axles, steering parts, front tires and rims were old style parts too. Some 603's have older style Suburban front rims with no holes in them for Wheel Weights like all the other 1964 WH's had. I had one 603 that I sold to a friend on this site, it has a old style 1950's and 60's tool box on it with no fenders mounted to it and the early step down shoe sole footrests too. It had a low Serial Number on it. The hood is also a 1964 style of hood. So you can virtually have a 603 with a lot of different combinations of parts. That is why I like them and have so many of them. They are all different from each other. As far as the hood goes, it didn't come with the indented part where the 2 inch square WH decal resides on one of my 603's pictured. That hood was repainted years ago by a WH dealer that repowered the tractor and placed the decals on there according to the original owner, a 90 year old woman who I got it from, a Miss Clara Bell Valentine! Seems she couldn't pull the original recoil starter anymore so they popped on a new electric start motor a 6 hp Tecumseh. So that 603 was converted to an electric start model and they spruced it up for her too. She kept the original motor as well! I left it as is to keep the story going in her memory. The new for 1964 hoods came with the decal there but just not indented anymore like the 1962 and 1963 hoods. The stripes that are on mine and Ken's new 603 are not correct, but they kind of look cool, mine is a double pinstripe. I think Ken's is a rubber piece of door trim from Napa or The Walmart. So I hope this clears up some of the questions on the 603. I am sure I don't know everything about the 603 so feel free to chime in. The 1045 was another inventory reducing machine that was produced late in the 1964 year and cleared out a lot of old fenders, tool box assemblies and square seats from the earlier Models. I have never heard the 1045's referred to as an Economy Tractor for a reduced price like the 603 was advertised to be. WH did it a few more times over their history and it worked out quite well for them financially. I thought most of this info was common knowledge to most WH collectors but maybe not. Nuff said...

Use a punch on the pin...If you hit directly on the pin, it will mushroom and you will never get it out! Keep putting a penetrating fluid on it and let it set.....drive the pin 1 direction, then the other direction, spraying more penetrant on the newly exposed part of the pin. I just removed one a few weeks ago. Mine was already mushroomed, so I had to use an angle grinder to remove the mashed ends. It takes a little time and patients....you don't want to break anything!

there are snap rings on either side that you remove. however, removing those rings are usually the least of the issues. The pin is usually seized to the transmission housing or lift hitch its self. if thats the case, i usually find it easiest to just cut the pin between the transmission and the hitch on both sides, remove the hitch and pound the pins out, then carefully pound the pin out of the transmission housing. All you need then is a 3/4 farm hitch pin or a even a bolt with a long enough shaft will work, make sure to grease it or put some never seize on it. hope that helps

thanks! I tried that! but that doesnt work..because the hitch has to be supported by *something*..if I just remove the pin, the hitch sags down to the ground..and because I have a 2-wheel cart, I get this: the hitch is the only thing holding up the cart.. I think for now I will just rig up a temorary fix: (awesome artwork huh? ) Scot