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Thought i would join up as im the process of doing a clutch in my father in laws toro 11-32, we also have a c101 that i need to look over as its not running properly & once i have done that i will be servicing the two of them plus our c145 (yes we have three wheelhorses) plus a trailer, three cutting decks that require belts for two of them that im trying to source & two snow ploughs we use to keep the road clear in the winter Im from aberfeldy in scotland. The tractors are used regularly for grass cutting. Snow clearing and pulling trailers

About a year ago I fabricated a mount to hold a non wheel horse aux fuel tank. Well that worked for a little bit but then the tank started to leak so I disconnected it. Over the weekend I decided to mount this NOS D series fuel tank that I got from my buddy Reily88 (Nate) at the show a few years ago. I have seen advertising from Wheelhorse with this tank mounted like this. I like it. Should hold a bunch more fuel for mowing without having to re fuel so often. This 520 burns some gas for sure.

I pick up a nice 1054 Wheel Horse tractor today needs Little TLC but a lot potential and also picked up a wheel horse 702 in which probably going to sell. I been looking for a 1054 for awhile now a plan to restore this one next winter. The 702 seems like its all there but seems like someone was taking it apart.The deck is in decided shape. I also picked up a nice searsss15 with and bower and a mint deck. The John Deere 111 also came in the package most likely sell both of them to. To top of the whole buy today there were about dozen engines and parts I also got to.

I use straight 30W Rotella year round for everything. 20 years no problems.

Love the attention to detail Martin, truly an inspiration to all of us.. It looks like you are putting together a brand new tractor.

more progress.... clutch, brake pedals and linkages on and got the brake band lining stuck in the brake band....... heres how i did the brake band....... brake band ready to have lining glued on. it was previously blasted and yellow zinc plated. lining purchased through mcmaster carr, http://www.mcmaster.com/#6175k813/=r94hwf the lining needs to have two holes put in one end to clearance the rivet heads in the band... hole positions marked. the lining was easy enough to drill with a drill bit so thats how i made the holes. i picked a drill size just slightly larger than the heads of the rivets. holes look positioned ok around rivet heads..... then i needed to cut the lining to length, i marked the side of the band where the old lining ended and then marked the new lining the same. squared of mark and cut to length. the lining cut easy with a large sharp pair of scissors.... i used the brake drum as a mandrel to clamp the lining tight to the band. i smeared black silicone on the lining and using a battery clamp bolt and spacer, drew the band together tight around the drum. the band and lining needed a couple bar clamps as well to keep pressure all the way around. i will leave it for a good 24 hours and see how it worked out. i haven't done one of these before but heard others on here use silicone to glue the lining. i guess i will find out how well it sticks.....

Hey guys I just joined youtube! I want to make videos about my 1276 restoration.... I have one video uploaded so far... just a start up I made my intro but I would like you guy's and girl's opinion on the audio track... Should I replace it with music instead? Here is the link to my Channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2rrDDlfDyRZbY9c2y_1IEw Please give it a thumbs up and Comment and Subscribe I don't know why but I look up my user name in the youtube search my channel wont show up.... Anyone know what's wrong? Thanks in advance, Nate

Found a good deal on a tractor, deck and blade. Previous owner thinks it has a broken rod. No problem as I've got a decent spare that's the correct engine. Current motor has a two pulley generator, flywheel pulley and belt guard. Will learn more when I pull it in the garage tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

The best way to confirm exactly when the points are opening is to use a multimeter or continuity tester to check when the contacts actually stop contacting. On most engines the points gap and the ignition timing can be adjusted independently. On a K series engine, the only way to change ignition timing is via the points gap. You don't say what you have set the points gap to, if I understand your above post right, it sounds that you need to close the points gap a little. This will cause the points to open a little before they are presently opening (advance the timing). I usually end up at around .018" gap on my Kohlers.

I will be there as always Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk

Off the top of my head, most of the bits you will need for the conversion could come from any 3 or 400 series tractor. You'll need the drive pulley, a clutch pedal, linkage, spring and idler, the brake linkage, console panel to accommodate the shifter. A safety switch for the clutch if you want to make it like the factory did it. I'm probably going to do the same conversion on my diesel tractor this summer, I'm hoping I have most of the bits from some 300 series tractors that I scrapped..

Thank you AMC I plan on making a 1st person point of view ride on my tractor this week end...

Your animation of the logo is pretty cool.

Love the "Mack" Bulldog on the 702.

This is going to be fun to see!

That 1054 has a great Patina & would look awesome if you oiled it over . I would like to own it , thats for sure

How about posting some pictures that we can take a look at. Be sure to post pictures of your areas of concern.

I stopped into my local dealer and he let me know he had a complete used tiller for an xi that he would sell for 1000, so I would say he did fine, especially if it was what he wanted. Such a smooth running tractor with those attachments will make him smile for a long time.

Dang you Martin! Now I gotta clean all the drool off my keyboard... That is one beautiful and tough lookin tractor your son has there. Not sure how I missed the finish to this one, you just keep bangin em out! Now I gotta find me a decent 875 or 877, always wanted one.

UPDATE sorry it has been realy late buty my tractor is nearly done, well my list is done but ive added a few 1.rub down and paint everything 2.give engine a strip down 3.give the gearbox a strip down hear are the pics from my section ()

I want to see pictures of this exploded coil mess!!!

Like I said "Best stuff on net"!! Like you, I've heard other talking about using black RTV for the brake lining, but that seems somewhat light duty to me, although I'm probably wrong! If it were me, I think I would use 3M black super weatherstrip adhesive. When I really want to make something stick, thats what I use. As always Martin, AMAZING Work!!!! Matt

This is one of the scrap yard bound tractors that I drug in the other day. Turns out,it runs and drives nice. The transmission feels great and the deck even seems quite. This would make a very good fix up and use or restoration candidate.

Here is my 953 with the original skinny ags and the 1054 with the wider turfs. I am torn too. I think I like the ags better.

This is prolly a bit better

Thanks. I just bent the tensioner bracket enough to clear it for now.

Your wish is getting closer Ian - the air's much drier now so I've made a start and sprayed one side of the carts and end panel today. As soon as the paint has hardened enough I can turn them over for the other sides an then when the paint's ready for handling reassembly will begin. Thanks for all the positive comments guys, especially from a 'real fabricator'. For those of you thinking about taking the plunge I ought to mention that I've have no formal training in this line of work, only a limited range of equipment, I use a 140 amp stick welder I got way back in the 80s and a little gasless MIG I bought for doing body panels on cars. This is perhaps the most challenging project of its sort that I've attempted so I'd say take the plunge and have a go. Andy

Hi All, Well using my tractor for hauling trailer loads of mud across slippery muddy areas, has given me the need for some rear wheel weights to give a bit of extra traction. Genuine cast iron ones being rather hard to come by and costing a fortune when they do (if not in item cost but postage), i decided to make some While i was at it, Stigian has been inspiring me with his videos, and thought id have a go at making one of them aswell. Failing the first time due to sound problems i re-filmed it as a silent movie style instead. Its just a laugh so hope you enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbyVW7NaA6g cheers, Daniel

Congratulations! And welcome to the Xi group! I have a 522xi with power steering and a loader. With 1100 hours on the meter it's earned it's keep. When I bought it last year I found all of the linkage was loose. Yes ALL steering and foot control linkage was so loose that I only had 1/2 speed and a hard time steering. Give it a thorough going over and use lite of locktite, thread lock. Other than that issue in generally impressed by its capabilities. Good luck and enjoy!