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Here is a higher resolution picture. The RM-425 deck came with the double belt idler.

I was up to the family camp this weekend following a 20" dumping. The guy who plows for us said he needs a backhoe to come in and push the mounds back. Our driveway is about 1000' with a large circle by the house. When I came in my truck barely fit down the driveway. Once I got my son to bed I fired up the 314h 2-stage combo. Seat time from 10:30pm to about 12:30. By now this should be old news. But once again I'm blown away with the performance of my equipment. I probably saved a few hundred $$$ by doing it myself. Not to mention it was a good time. There was a 5' high pile in front of the garage which disappeared in no time. Plow banks up to 8' high. The road coming in was 6'-8' wide and is now 10'-12'. The Magnum 14 did plenty of grunting but got it done. Dollar for dollar you just cant beat a Wheel Horse!

Despite the colder than normal winter weather, I have finally finished the freshen-up of the 1045 I bought last December. It still has a small leak where the two transmission halves meet at the hitch pin. Does anyone have the part number of this seal and/or know where I can get one? Thanks!

Ed, In re-reading your original post I noticed you had mentioned "surging" at lower RPM and felt led to respond further. I have had considerable experience with these Onan engines and have found surging to be created by one of or a combo of three things. Onan carbs have a small expansion plug on the face side (same side as adjustment screw) that has tendancy to loosen up or worse to come clear out, and although this can happen it generally creates extreme surging. Second, is as mentioned in an earlier response a dirty carb. This can generally be taken care of by removing the top of the carb and servicing it from there. One particulaer area to look for in doing this is to remove the Idle Jet that is screwed into the lower body and be sure all of the side holes and the bottom hole in it are clear. I use a set of gas welding tip cleaning wires to do this task. Third and lastly, the carb manifolds are cast in two (2) pieces and glued together with a sealant from the factory. With age and continual heating up of the engine this sealant deteriorates resulting in the manifold sucking air. Since you are taking this manifold off anyway to adjust the valves I would pry the manifold apart and reseal it. This isn't that hard to do. One half of the manifold has guide pins cast into it and if you are careful these can be maintained. However I have had them break off separating the two halves. This isn't a big deal as they can be drilled out and replaced by some small #10-24 screws and nuts. Carefully clean the old gasket material off, trying to be very careful not to mar the gasket sealing surface. After cleaning it and washing it down with brake cleaner, laquer thinner or some similar type cleaning agent, apply an ample but conservative application of "Permatex MotoSeal 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Gray" . This material is impervious to gasolene and ethonal infested gasolene and will hold up. You can use bolts through the end holes used to mount the manifold to hold location and to aid in clamping until the new sealant dries. Let it dry 24 hours before the manifold is bolted back into place.......................Hope all this helps in youe endeavors......................Gary

A member PM'd me and asked for a pic of my rear winch mount. Couldn't see how to PM a picture, so here they are. I built on to the hitch mount the PO made. His has Unistrut (I think. It's open on one side) bolted on top of rear axle, using longer bolts, that also attach the rear axle plow mounts. If redoing that part, I would use 1 1/2" sq. tubing. I've been using the GT and she sure needs a wash! 2 pins attach the winch. Only 1 is being used in pic, which is why it isn't vertical. I have the same mount on the front of the tractor. Also have a attachment for front or rear, which has a 1' barbell bar, sticking out to add weights to. The 2, taps on the rear are for attaching my back blade, lifting boom, etc Not sure if pics will work. .

Gotchya..... made Ya look.

Putting St Vince and the picture of a Bear on the same page?????? BLASPHEME!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm packing up stuff to bring as we speak- maybe I should come in disguise...just so you know- this is what I will look like- You know- just another Illini ***** cat!...Al

I found this old picture of my original collection.This picture was taken just before the 2002 WHCC show. Since this picture was taken I have figured out I have bought and sold 23 WH tractors ....but Im happy to report these original six are still in the garage plus two more ...a RJ59 and a 633. These kids are little "bigger" too .... Bob T

I will make a prediction........ A Team from Michigan will win the tournament!

Hello Everyone It's been a while since I've been on the forum I thought I'd get back into things with this post, As most of you know I've been waiting for the nicer weather to be here to allow me to crack on with the restoration of my cub cadet, there's not really a lot more that needs doing, only for me to add a few more coats to the wheels then add the decals, and all should look grand again! Here's some pictures for you, Here's the cub whilst removing the engine, The cub once engine was removed and had a petrol wipe, Prepping the rims Getting everything ready Wheels now with new tri rib tyres on, still need a few coats Half grey or half yellow? Spraying the bonnet, I don't know how good quality these pictures will load, but such a good paint job you can even see my reflection Spraying the tractor!

Scouting new prospects for team ...are you?

Now your just showing off Martin! That is an amazing job you did on that wiring harness. Thats probably one of the most overlooked parts of my refurbs. I don't know why, as it really shouldn't be. You've inspired me to try a little harder next time. By the quality of work going into this amazing restoration, you'd think it was a Rolls Royce. Love it!!!!! Matt

Another issue is locality in which the tractor is...Here in PA horses are pretty plentiful in the surrounding areas. A C-160 I'm comfortable paying $200 for may fetch a grand in Florida or Georgia where horses seem to be more rare. I also think its personal thing. I paid $600 for a non running, clapped out, abused 18 Automatic that cost me close to $2000, after the purchase price, before all was said and done with the restoration and I didn't even touch the engine or put a professional base coat clear coat paint job on it. Someone else would probably have sent it to the junker, but since I was 6 and read my Dad's 1973 Wheel Horse tractor brochure...I swore I would have one someday...now I do

Ed, like has been mentioned before, take care of the valves and decarbon while its apart. the intake has to come off to do the valve clearances. bit of a pain, but these engines are worth looking after. a little maintenance goes a long way and who doesn't like caring for our wheel horses? Before the Onans started appearing in my garage i didn't have much good to say about them, ignorant i guess, i thought nothing could draw my attention away from the simplicity of the k series Kohlers. Well times have changed, and while the Kohlers still impress me with their simple, uncomplicated makeup, the Onan has impressed me with how well made an engine they really are. they are a bit of a pain to work on, spare parts are more expensive, but there is something about them that has got me hooked on them......

Updated with pictures. In the for what its worth department the secondary belt pulley is 6" in diameter. Oops that last one just slipped in!!!!!!!!!

Hello, I'm a new member here and I haven't yet got my own wheel horse but me and my boyfriend are currently looking out for one for me. My boyfriends knocking around here somewhere (Charlie Smith) I love these machines and think they are great. I can't wait to get one of my own I thought I'd join up now and muck in and see all the projects you guys get up too.

My personnel opinion...the Big Ten got snubbed...6 teams and Iowa has to play for a spot in the field of 64...Minnesota has never got any respect...No number 1 seeds. We will see...we are set up for some good wins that work for us...if we show up and the refs let us play. The tournament committee has put a chip on our shoulder...they have poked the shark.

Well I hate being right all the time! Steve I dunno about that but, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express Last Night!

Only tip I can give you is.... Sounds interesting and dangerous at the same time be careful... Oh sod it go for it! ..... Where did you see the video? I'd quite like to see it,

Its great to be aboard:)

Al, here is hoping that you can make the Mentone swap meet. You start talking to Duke and I will sneak up behind him...sandwich!!! Finally, the Illini will get the best of Michigan.

I agree Steve-they couldn't even make a lay up to win!= Maybe they forgot+ VINCE LOMBARDI= If winning isn't everything, why do they keep score?-Al

Boo, You are welcome.............Just trying to be of help as I too love these Onans and try my best to keep them alive. No engine sounds like them with that "throaty" growl they have while under load and I love that sound at idle...............Gary

Thanks for answering him, Gary!

Pickle: Glad it is back up and running again! Pacer: You may also see gray KT Kohlers in Wheelhorse C-175 and or C-195 that were replacement engines for the series I motors. (Gray meaning the tins are also painted gray). Some folks may have found propane powered KT's and converted them to gasoline. A lot of the propane powered KT's were factory gray. A gentleman I have badgered for years to sell me his C-175 has a Series II Kohler KT-17 that is gray. That was what the local Wheelhorse dealer installed in his tractor after he experienced several failures with his Series I after it was bought new.

Pretty sharp guy that Duke...I know Kelly didn't tell him after the picnic table burning incident last year.

Even I gotta admit, that's funny...

What is it with the state of Michigan??? They have ruined my Sunday. I have no one to root for in the Big Ten Championship Game. Michigan against Michigan St... give be a break. Looks like I will be watching golf this afternoon. OH...that's right...the Para-olympics is on. Cool!!!

whlpny -- Thanks for the link to your steering build. Your fabrication skills far exceed mine. I really like your "all from the garage parts" restriction. Very impressive. I will be studying your build. And there is one tractor salvage yard guy in southern NH that I am going to check out for a suitable JD donor. The environmental and safety laws in MA make it near impossible for such a yard to operate here. Thanks. B/R John

From your lips to Gods ears.

Man you do awesome work. I just sat here and read through all 11 pages. What a nice job your doing. I'm really liking the front tires too! Keep up the good work.

The new coil arrived and I installed it, seems to start quicker and run smoother now. I changed the hydro oil to synthetic 10w30 and screwed on a new filter. I am now working on the deck support system and have found some wear on the mid tach-a-matic, I will have to deal with that quickly - spring is almost here and the 3 acre yard is about to start growing fresh grass.

It IS red and looks like factory paint. Has a Tillotson updraft carb #E2A. Also has a 5 1/2" dip stick tube. Pull start only.

First time for me going to the big show. Taking a few buddies with me stopping in Pittsburgh for a baseball game first then going to the show Friday. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Starting to think RS should have a topic heading for what's It Worth Wheel Horse Values. Maybe put some pinned pictures in for comparisons for People that just joine RS for trying to get an idea what there tractor is worth. This topic is almost as popular as Onan exhaust valve issue.

You were apparently using the wrong Wix filter on your hydro. All I use is Wix #51410 and NAPA #1410 (which Wix makes for NAPA) on my hydro. It is a true hydraulic filter not and oil filter. The Wix and NAPA filters are twice as good as Toro....Whatever you used was an oil filter for a car.

Maybe a couple!

The coil is the last part I would change. I would check for 12v at the + coil terminal with the switch on run, then clean and check all the terminals to points and condenser , then clean and set the plug and points. Then install a new condenser.

Well since I started planning for the show the min. I put the key in the truck to leave last year I'll be there. I'm bringing Marvin so there will be at least 1 non red hood there plus Ezra as 73 is the feature tractor but I have a big problem. Last year I needed tons of stuff as Marvin needed to be rebuilt. This year my list will be much smaller. I'm supposed to keep a certain Dino entertained all weekend by walking in back and forth in front of his lawn chair carrying parts. Since I have a short list but the main thing I'm looking for is a pair of 8" HORSEHEAD HUBCAPS!!! I hope to do more driving around taking pics, cooking brats and maybe selling a few things. I'm bring the home made mid grader which is sold to drop off and an electric Flake Flinger for Vinylguy.

Old monster movies have better endings than Illinois sports!

That is a fine collection. I can appreciate all the travel time that went into putting those round hoods in your horse barn.I've yet to cross a state line to purchase one but have been from the mountains to within 50 miles of the atlantic ocean. Thats one end of my state to the other.

Just bought my 1st wheel horse. I seem to like all tractors so it could be any of these this winter!!

75 C-120

After lifting the plow 40 to 80 times the old arm was sore. This is what i came up with and the things i had to work with.Note to self keep 65# of lead in front and have it hope you guy's like it works great wish i'd done this years ago!!

Im going to let it Go.

The hitch you can find on ebay, The wheels you can get from Midwest super cub. you have to understand what off set is. to make sure they clear.

Hello Gazza, it's Charlie from Facebook, glad you finally made it onto RedSquare. I told you this lot where a jolly good bunch! Welcome and have fun!

I have been waiting almost 2 years to finally install this dealer sign the I got from a friend and member here (Riley08). This started as a double sided, 4x6 ft sign but it would have been much to big and by cutting it down I can use the opposite side elsewhere. I mounted it on the old barn beam and used the brackets that it was hung with to support the barn beam. This weekend we are going to get everything wired up and hopefully figure out a way to get this sign to light up....

This is my first post, so bear with me on this one. Quick history-1998 44" 2 Stage snowthrower, Model #79361, I bought this unit off eBay for a fair price back in January 2010, from Joe's Outdoor Power. I did the rebuild during the summer of 2010. The paint color was automotive Dodge Viper red, all decals are new and I carefully removed and reattached the model/serial# tag with an automotive emblem adhesive. It was mounted on my 1991 416H for the end of 2010 winter and for the 2010-2011 season. This last winter it was on my 1995 520H. I'm not an engineer, I just tinker with stuff that breaks or doesn't work as well as I would like it to. Before and after pictures First the Peerless gearbox, I don't know if the previous owner hit something solid with the auger or the pulley was hit from the side, but where it is mounted was bent counterclockwise. I bent back the mounting surface with small hydraulic press and welded two pieces of cold rolled steel, 1/2 x 1 x 3", on the inside and remounted the gearbox with 1/2" longer carriage bolts (Sorry no picture, difficult to see). I tried a new stock chain tensioner block the first winter after the rebuild (2010-2011) and didn't like how it wore so fast. So for this winter I used a small roller chain guide with a sealed ball bearing (made for a small motorcycle), and it worked pretty well. But we had a very light winter this year. My auger bearings were worn completely through the side, I didn't like the shaft turning inside the bronze bushing so I replaced them with 1" self centering sealed ball bearings from TSC, Part #1195167 and mounting flanges, Part #1198717. Then I had to make a 1/4" spacer so the bearings sat inside far enough so the side thrust bolts on the outside ends of the shaft were spaced correctly. Next are the modifications. I added a 12 volt linear actuator to the deflector. The mounts are homemade from aluminum and I had to drill one 1/4" hole in the deflector handle. The actuator has built in stroke adjustment and limit switches. I added a 12 volt power window motor from my truck to turn the chute. This took some time to fabricate and to figure how to wire it with limit switches. The limit switches are from McMaster-Carr and are rated to get wet but not submersed. I used a standard flat four trailer plug to connect it to the tractor. The first picture is the mock up and I drilled two 3/8" hole to mount. The toggle switches I used were from Radio Shack (3 position, 6 terminal, DPDT switch, springs back to center). I also attached a power window motor to a single stage(1989-Model#06-36SL01). I bought it brand new in the box in 2009. I know this model was built for a vertical shaft Wheel Horse, but I converted it to my horizontal shaft tractors. That would be complete new post. Too much time on my hands during the winter I guess. Currently I'm putting a Haban sickle bar mower on the 416H. Not a bad fit until I wanted to use the hydraulic lift to raise and lower it. I hope this has some helpful information for somebody, as I have picked up a lot information from this site for my hobby. Craig