Leaderboard
-
in Posts
- All areas
- Markers
- Marker Comments
- Marker Reviews
- Articles
- Article Comments
- Article Reviews
- Classfieds
- Classified Comments
- Classified Reviews
- Wiki's
- Wiki Comments
- Wiki Reviews
- Blog Entries
- Blog Comments
- Images
- Image Comments
- Image Reviews
- Albums
- Album Comments
- Album Reviews
- Files
- File Comments
- File Reviews
- Posts
-
Custom Date
-
All time
November 28 2011 - July 18 2025
-
Year
July 17 2024 - July 18 2025
-
Month
June 17 2025 - July 18 2025
-
Week
July 10 2025 - July 18 2025
-
Today
July 17 2025 - July 18 2025
-
Custom Date
03/08/2014 - 03/08/2014
-
All time
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/08/2014 in Posts
-
6 pointsIt'll most likely go unoticed if I dont bring it up but the guy who started this site back in November of 2006 is celebrating his 25th birthday today (whchris). Yep, he was 17 when this all got started ! He wont see this post as he doen't visit but I communicate with him every so often thru facebook, I'll give him a happy birthday shout-out there. Mike..............
-
5 pointsHave you ever wondered about the History of the engines that were planted in our tractors http://www.kohlerengines.com/about/landing.htm
-
4 pointsPicked up this beast this morning. Has a good deck, but I plan on putting my spare blower on and make it my primary snow mover. I'll put the Tecky powered C-120 into semiretirement.... It has had a long working life and deserves a little R&R. Can't wait to try that hydro lift.
-
3 pointsSo here it is. I made a lift link for the mid mount grader blade. I would like some input from you all. What kind of demand is there for them and how much is a fair price that I can sell them for. I made this one where I work. I made a CAD drawing of it, from a pdf file that a fellow RS member posted (Thanks goes out to Him) then I cut it out on a CNC water jet cutter, turned the pins on a lathe drilled the holes and gave it a nice coat of Rust-O-Leum Regal Red. Please let me know what you all think. Thanks Tom
-
3 points[ My brother David Ralph and I just got back from Fairland, Oklahoma on a Wheel Horse Road Trip. About 7 1/2 to 8 hours from Greencastle, Indiana to Fairland, Oklahoma. We went to pick up Wheel Horse RJ that had been owned by one man for 60 years. I was not sure about the tractor when I saw the first pictures of it sent by the seller but after I talked to him and saw that there were 5 implements with the tractor going at one price I had to really think about it. I paid for half of the cost in December when I learned about this being sold and told the seller I would have to wait for good weather to come and pick it up. Friday, March 8th was 63 degrees in Fairland and it was about 50 degrees and sunny on the way thru Missouri Thursday. I was very happy when I saw the tractor in person Friday morning. Some dents and weld spots on the hood, but good, clean gasoline tank, original motor -K-90 , Schnacke Recoil in great working order, pancake muffler in good shape, original belt guard in great condition, original belt guide for 32 inch cutter bar belt, good seat and spring (seat not cracked anywhere) and five pretty good implements. A CBR-32 inch cutter bar (with all original parts), a LT-24 dump cart, a cultivator, and 8 inch garden plow, and a spiked tooth harrow. Front tires don't match and not good -wheels good. Rear wheels good and no rear tires. We also stopped at a friends in Illinois and bought two more rear tires and wheels to use on the RJ and another cultivator. I will post some photos. I am not planning on doing much to this tractor but tune up motor, new belt, points, and tires. May paint wheels for added life! The new bridge on I-70 into downtown St. Louis The St. Louis Gateway Arch: Stopped and Visited with A Red Square member's nephew in Wyandotte, Ok -just east of Fairland: The RJ sellers Place on Grand Lake in Fairland , Oklahoma: Loading the RJ up: Some of the implement photos:
-
3 points
-
2 pointsWow Lane, you hit the jackpot! I did get a little dizzy looking at some of the photos!
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 pointsI'm sure your going to go thru it, fluids, filters, grease etc....but since its new to you I would take the time to get the engine tins off and make sure its clean of any build up such as grass clipping. Overheating is bad for the ONANS. Nice find, should prove to be a great worker! Mike.............
-
2 points
-
1 pointI think it was Kelly that suggested this once in a thread, but I have never read about anyone actually doing it. I think I'm done with my tiller for the year, so I decided to remove the tine assemblies to replace a leaking seal, and maybe if I can find the motivation, a look at the chain and bearings. The side where the seal was leaking slipped off just fine (what a surprise huh?) but the assembly on the other side was stuck solid. Kevin (KPinNC) showed years ago a puller he fabbed up and I was going to do that, but first I wanted to try something quick and easy. Let some PB Blaster soak in for an hour or two, pulled the two pins that hold the assembly on, drop the tiller on the ground, engage the PTO and in 5 seconds the axle was spinning inside the tines. Lift the tiller back up and slide off the tine assembly. Doesnt get much quicker than that!
-
1 pointVery nice haul lane! Looks like a nice tractor...and some very hard to find attachments!
-
1 pointLooks like it was well worth the trip, Lane. Be sure to post more pics when you get the chance.
-
1 pointLooks like your truck is only "half full".....fifteen minutes and I could have overloaded it for ya....you better plan on another trip "west of the big ole Mississippi!" PS...better bring a bigger truck ...mabe even a trailer if Ol550 will turn loose some of his stuff!!! PSS...nice haul.
-
1 pointif you need help i'm just up the road from you. nice score, i just drug home a 518 today it started and ran but needs a lot of tlc will probably part out eric j
-
1 pointnow some engine stuff..... installed the bearing plate seal and bolted the bearing plate on the engine. i installed the shims same as how they came off. checked crank end clearance and right at .008. spec is .006-.012. sealer on bolts as they run through to the inside of crankcase. now onto the gear case cover. cleaned up inside of cover, installed new governor shaft seal and crank seal. bolted up to crank case. bolts have copper washers (which were annealed to help them seal) and bolts had sealer, again some go through crank case. now onto oil pan. spent a fair bit of time cleaning this part, really nasty inside. same goes with oil pick up. was removed from pump and cleaned well, then installed back in pump.... oil pan all bolted up, engine back on its feet again..... now onto the upper part of the engine. (another day).....
-
1 pointNo plating on the lift lever shaft? See you finally made your way to the RM&C section. You want my 1045 or C-175 next?
-
1 pointVery nice find. You will be amazed at that tractor with Matt's foot control kit if add it.
-
1 point
-
1 pointLookin good Martin! Those parts look awesome replated. In fact I see a few there I could use. The little plates that hold the PTO race on. I will rob Peter to pay Paul I reacon.
-
1 pointstill not sure at this stage if we will be going Bill, so can't answer that...... small update. just came in from working on the engine, starting to get it back together, installed new seals and will be put back together with new gaskets. assembled the breather (i pulled the cap apart and took out the balls to be able to plate the steel pieces). don't have many pics on the engine assembly yet other than these..... installed new valve seals, the new ones (on the left) are slightly different than the old. the old ones were sealing ok but were getting a little hard so i thought i would replace them while its apart.... Onan parts for the assembly..... breather top in parts and back together. it took me a while to work out how this came apart, turns out the two steel pieces are pressed together so i clamped some vise grips on the lower part and used a large screwdriver to slowly separate the pieces. got them plated and time to get them assembled again.... manual lift lever ready to go back together..... installed on tractor..... pto parts ready for assembly. used new nyliner bushings 5666 and 5983. installed on tractor.... hopefully the engine will be well on the way to getting back together this afternoon.....
-
1 pointI pucker up a bit when I drive anywhere now days. With all these people texting and everything else except watching where they're going. It's dangerous out there.
-
1 pointDo what Maynard said...leave a bit sticking out and use a punch to break it towards the middle....it will collapse and will almost fall out itself....
-
1 pointlooks like she will clean up real nice. How many Hours? the light buckets are still available.
-
1 point
-
1 pointI guess he must have discovered girls and Wheel Horse tractors took a back seat. Happy Birthday to Chris.
-
1 pointThat is a nice Black Hood and a Black Hood collector might buy it for parts if nothing else. I don't refinish and instead I buy good parts from other tractors and swap parts. Not sure how much storage you have but you could wind up cluttering your property up with too many machines. I would steer you towards a twin cylinder tractor like a C-175 Black Hood or a 520H. I consider those the "muscle machines" of the brand with more power and smother running engines that fill up the engine compartment. Here is 1980 C-175 hydro that I paid $450 for. It was a rust bucket but had a nice running KT17 Series II and the hydro worked beautifully. I then replaced the hood, fender, seat, belt covers, wheels, engine tins, and air cleaner with nicer parts from other tractors. Before: After with more upgrades to do like the dash tower:
-
1 pointnot related to the engine style that you guys are talking about here, but there were other work horses.........
-
1 pointI like it Tom. Wouldn't it be easier and less time involved to buy a clevis pin for one end and the trunnion pin for the other end and weld them in? I don't know what the demand is other than I would be interested. Price? I think in the $10-$15 range would be acceptable. By the way we still need to get together for that parts swap. Sparky's got a point but if your cutting one or two, you might as well let the machine cut a dozen or more at a time. Is that possible?
-
1 pointI would also suggest the American market place has changed greatly during the evolution of Wheel Horse. Wheel Horse was almost a necessity in rural America with the gardens and way of life after the war. Urban society no longer has the same need for gardens and lives on smaller properties. The life style and the buying culture has changed and with it so has the market. JD has been able to evolve meeting the needs of the consumer as well as the commercial user. Toro has been evolving too but not with Wheel Horse. With all due respect to our beloved little tractors, they lived their day. Many of us are fortunate enough to be able to own them and use them but in reality there is no market today for what they are.
-
1 point
-
1 pointSo I take it then that you will not be using them at all? "CLEAN AND DRY" , that is funny...I guess they would make a nice wall mural if you know how to do that type of art work....Just sayin' clean and dry when it comes to snow and chains, is like sayin' I am going to work on my tractor and not get "dirty". . Sorry man, just had to say something, that is funny!
-
1 pointA digital multimeter will be extremely helpful necessary for troubleshooting the ignition circuit. Do you have one? A $20 meter from Sears, Radio Shack, etc will be needed to perform testing on the igntion system components
-
1 pointFor posterity, I thought it important... to include a couple images(from the auction)of the the Schnacke holy grail.
-
1 pointBrrly1 I apologized for busting on Brennen and his signature in his original post, I then went on to give him solid advise as to how to solve his problem without looking for or at manual that may or may not have been available. Their are many things that are needed to become a good technician one of the most important skills is developing the ability to look at the parts and having them tell you what they want or need to be happy doing whatever they are supposed to do. Hopefully all of our young and not so young members will continue to work on improving our skills and learn how to troubleshoot, test, diagnose and repair these tractors properly and not just throw parts at them until the problem is solved. I'm sure that it would be a Pleasure to meet Brennan and encourage him to continue working on these tractors. Shorts
-
1 pointMy 310-8 is also overcharging. I just replaced the battery with a new 230 CCA battery. This is plenty for the 10 HP engine. My tractor will start with a dead battery and a 50 AMP start boost from my charger. The battery I replaced only lasted less than three years which I believe is from overcharging After I installed the new battery, I ran the tractor and measured 16.90 VDC across the battery terminals. It may have still gone up more but I didn't wait. I tried three 15 AMP diodes in series with the built in charging diode and and ignition switch. Voltage was still going past 16 VDC. I decided to drill a hole in the control panel next to the head light switch and installed a toggle switch rated 3 AMP. This switch was then wired in series with the charging diode. I can now run the tractor until the voltmeter reads 14 VDC and then turn the charge off and periodically turn it back on to maintain 14 VDC. I don't know why Wheel Horse never put a real voltage regulator in the 310-8. catfish83
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 pointWell...forget EVERYTHING I said about Illinois...except that I jinxed them last night. They really stunk up the joint and probably ruined any chance of going to the Big Dance.
-
1 pointNice, RedRider, and Do you know about the BIG Wheel Horse show in Biglerville/Arendtsville every June?
-
1 pointDuke, you need to ad "Big Ten champs" to that sign my friend... (I don't know how I missed this thread) -BK
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 pointBought from original owner and its still wearing its original paint and all the paper work was still in the tool box with mice nest over it add gas and it fired right up after setting for 9years
-
1 pointI just took delivery of my hitch. Let me be blunt. WOW!!!!!! Everything about it is great. I have to give credit where its due and thank these gentleman for such a well built beast of a hitch. Best of all and keeping with the wheel horse tradition,,,,,,,,,,MADE IN THE USA. Glenn
-
1 pointI want to thank everyone for the overwhelming amount of compliments on my final edition. It was a real thrill to see the faces of everyone when I handed them their books at the show. It was truly a huge project that consumed my life, but was a labor of love and strong desire to pay homage to Cecil Pond. Many people have asked me how many were printed. Here are the production numbers for the three editions. First Edition: 4000 Second Edition: 4500 Final Edition: 2100 The Final Edition is limited due to the high production costs that went in to making it a high quality lasting tribute to Elmer and Cecil. As I mentioned, I wanted to keep the cost reasonable with the highest quality possible. I don't want to see people selling them at ridiculous prices on Ebay so that was another reason for the lower production number. The books are being purchased faster than you can imagine and I strongly encourage everyone to get a it now. Although not intended to be a collectable, the first two editions are in such demand, image how desirable this Final Edition will be with a smaller production total and having exposure on Red Square, The Wheel Horse Collector's Club site, as well as a beautiful article in Lawn and Garden Tractor Collector Magazine. I signed every book even if you purchased it on line, however, I did write personal messages in hundreds of books at the show. Thanks to everyone for being part of the best hobby on earth. I know Cecil and Elmer Pond are looking down upon us with amazement and appreciation. I just hope I made them proud. Michael
-
1 pointThe 42 RD is what I am exactly looking for, I think its the perfect size for my needs. I have a door opening width of 47" into my shed, so ti will work there. I dont think the 42 SD will fit thru due to the chute sticking out. Mike
-
1 pointThe 31307A and 31388A were K-91T engines. The only K-90T used was 27107D. The K-90 was used on the RJ-35 and early RJ-58's.