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Its been 6 months I've been dealing with this guy and he finally decided to sell his little RJ35 .He's one of thoses tough guys that don't like to sell anything. The worst part about this tractor its been sitting outside wasting away. So finally we came up with a price and the tractor came home with me. Cool little tractor i like the cast iron steering wheel.This is nice addition to my collection.

Found a nice little RJ 58. It was still owned by the original owners family. So I guess I'm the second owner? It has not been used for 20years but stored in an old wooden barn high and dry away from pickers till I come along. I do believe the only thing missing is the serial # tag. Shields are all accounted for. I did get the mower deck and snow plow with it. Just thought I'd share, so excited to have another one.

Mods I hope you will allow this in the Wheel Horse section as I bought these with the intention of one day being able to mount them on a Wheel Horse (unless someone wants to buy them more than I want to keep them). Anyway, these were in the back of an old woodshop (stored indoors) on propeerty a friend of mine recently purchased. Its a nice set of Sears equipment. Any rust you see on the plow or blade just wiped right off with my boot after the pictures were taken. The Sears tags are still attached to each piece and in great shape as you can see. I think the tool bar got some use, and the rake got a little use, but the plow and scrape blade were basically unused. Here are some pics. What do you guys think I need to mount them to a Wheel Horse?

New Ags going on soon Casey C-100

Myhindra horse.

Nice score! Those mount to the Sear's 3 point. It's a CAT 0 but I think that the lift arms and center arm are proportionally smaller than the normal size (think GT 14) CAT 0 arms are. I may be wrong but that's what I think I remember!

I run my bolts from the out side in. If one gets loose, worse thing that could happen is I'll lose the bolt. I did have one loosen up once. Now I use lock nuts on them.

That frozen block of ice needs to be thawed out!!

Is the left rear tire on backwards?

Craig, your shed looks like one of those tiny clown cars with about a dozen clowns coming out of it!!!! How do you fit everything?? My Workhorse is out on the driveway with a tarp over it

hey everyone i had a few questions. my 72 raider 12 isnt charging.it has a k301s kohler in it. im not to good at electronics but i have to learn sometime. so i have a good battery to start. now the current rectifier on there looks like the board has a crack in it. im not positive if this could be the issue but im going to replace that. would something like this work? i see it is the same setup as mine. i tryed doing a little searching on here and people said you can get them from ebay but the part number i have isnt listed on any of the ebay pages. also is if i wanted to test the stator how should i go about doing so? i assume starting up the engine and using a multimeter on the wires coming from the stator? i have check my gorunds and inspected all the wires they all seem good. i would really apperciate the help. im new to the wheel horses. my neighbor had them when i was groing up as a kid and always was intrested and now i finally have one. thanks nick.

I just picked up a b-100 (1976) with no deck, i have a rear discharge deck (36") serial number 85-36mr01-08078, my question is i can not find out what drive belt it takes, the deck belt i have, it is a wheel horse 8411 Thanks in advance for everyones help

Craig- I wish that I could spend more time on it but time has been limited.... I still have to rewire the entire truck before I get to that point. It will be much easier once the weather gets a little better.

Yes and the SMS-50 and SMS-505 have a different mounting plate and lift assy. than that used on the long frame tractors.

I would check the rulebook for your club before extending the frame. Most have rules on the wheelbase length and frame mods. If he wants to do it to put more weight up front, i would just put on a weight bracket and add weight as needed. Also, I would make sure it has an 8pinion rear end in it before getting too far. The regular 8spd axles don't hold up as well pulling. Changing the rear end only takes 4 bolts, and its a lot easyer doing it now than after getting towed off the track. As far as the engine goes, check the rulebook as well as there are limits to what you can do depending on the class you are in. Hope this helps before he mods it a little too far for what hes doing.

Scot I was trying to pick you out of the crowd, but was not able to figure out which one was you, reason being I didn't see anyone with shorts on. I have never seen you with long pants on. I really think you are doing a great thing for the kids that will help them all there lives. Great job & God bless. Wingrider

You can't go wrong with a well taken care of 312-8. See the Wheel Horse in my avatar pic? That Wheel Horse is a 312-8 that I bought new in April 1991. I've owned it for almost 23 years and with about 535 hours on it the tractor runs just as good today as it did the day I brought it home. I'm happy to hear you have a soft spot in your heart regarding helping your neighbor. Thats a sign of good character. Welcome to Red Square!

Sorry but I had to chuckle out loud about the 2 threads above

Those are really in great shape. You could do this if you get a Sears 3 pt.-

That's a great score! I have the plow and blade and I know the blade is very rare. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Nylock nuts are what I use for wheel weights, no chance of vibrating off at any speed

I would suggest selling those to a Sears Collector as they are nice and original and they should be somewhat valuable in that condition as a set. That should bring enough $$$ return so you can buy Wheel Horse equipment/attachments or another Wheel Horse tractor. Those Sears collectors are just like Wheel Horse fanatics too!

Nice score Van!

I didn't have nearly the snow you guys had but there was alot of ground and roadway for me to clear. I had to break out the the Mahindra Horse with a 6foot blade for this job.

If you are attacking hard plow piles I would remove the side wings on the blower. The put a big strain on a weak point of the blower assembly and you make break the weld between the top of the blower body and the top front of the end plates.

If you are going to replace the O-rings in the hyd pump, here are a few pics of what you will find. This pump is (was) on my bench and easy enough to work on. This could probably be done without taking the hydro-gear off of the gear-box transmission. NOTE.. this is a 90-2062 Sundstrand Hydrogear which is externally the same as model 90-2046 of the Electro 12 I wonder, too, if O-rings (for water) from a Plumbing Supply would disintegrate in motor oil or ATF..... some research is merited.

The only update at this time is the amount of snow on top of the tarp! Unfortunately having a "shade tree" shop and a winter of this magnitude has me closed until spring. I didn't even get a chance to dump my e-tank before it froze and it hasn't thawed out since! Hopefully I get back to it as soon as the weather warms up. I'm trying to bring it up for the show in June as a completed project(we'll see ) We recently got @26" with the bigger storm and an additional 2-3" today. I've had to put the old yellow machine to work for this winter but hope to have this one up to task for next year. The project tractor is in the red circle.

Nice RJ!

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Thanks! I thought the price slightly high, but to help a neighbor in a tight spot is worth a little premium for me. I'm very happy I found this fourm! You folks are awesome!

I would say you can't go wrong with a Gravely muffler and stack Its what I used on my 18 Auto and it both works well and looks great

Thank you all so much for the input. Looks like I'm going to get a good education here! I'm going to give the man his money today and join the Wheel Horse family!! I'll keep you all posted with pics and questions as they come up. On another note, I made the mistake of looking at some pictures of some of the restored older models...WOW! I might have found a new obsession. These tractors are amazing looking! I look forward to absorbing all your fine folks knowledge. Thanks again!

I think it looks sweet with those regular tires on it. Like my astute collegue wheel n it said, and said it best. " the cool factor" Glenn

The man take good care of his equipment! I crawled all over this thing, no rust, started up first try after sitting in his barn since October and purred like a kitten. All the attachments are in equally as good of shape. No smoke when running either!

1963 serial number 35951

I opted to get the factory elevator installed... drops down one story into the cave.

The're still in shock!

All dressed up in her winter clothes.

Here are my plans for the winter!

The 314 doing her job

OK...maybe not. You're were right...it does look better en Francais.

Update: I had some time Saturday and I managed to dig into the motor. I found much the same situation as the pump as Dave and others have suggested. Here are a few pics. Everything looks like it has some scarring so it will all get resurfaced but when I took a better look at the piston block and slippers I noticed that the slipper ring (not sure exactly what it is called but you get the idea) is out of shape with some bending: Is this normal? I don't think it is but I can't imagine how it would get bent like this. Also, the retainer and spirallock from the center of the piston block didn't come out as planned no matter how much I checked the manual so I am thinking I will have to replace them. I was all set to start resurfacing and cleaning on Sunday but we are having the "best" winter in southern ontario in about 10 years and the trails are mostly open around me so my son and I loaded up and spent the afternoon on these!

220 400 600 grit emory and crocus cloth. Carb cleaner with spray nozzle. Air blast hose source. Kerosene as solvent / clean agent. PISTON & SLIPPERS: One by one, remove each piston from cyl block and progressively reface "wax on...wax off" the brass slipper until scars and scratches are GONE. A magnetic base stand-alone magnifying glass is a bonus to inspect finished surface. When done polishing one, spray carb cleaner to clear the tiny pin-hole in center of slipper. Set it back into the same cylinder and proceed to the next piston, full circle of the cyl block. Take care...be meticulous and don't rush. Also take care to NOT round the edges of the brass slippers (no radius on edges). As you work with each of 9 pistons, inspect the sidewalls of each. Some scuffing may be present but there should not be any chips or dents at all. The slipper retainer can't be twisted or any of the 9 holes slopped out. VALVE PLATE (swash palte). Using a circular motion, scuff the bass side it of first on 600 grit, just to show where the scratch and gouges are. With any luck, they will polish out using the 600 grit, but I've had some that took the 220 grit to start, the progress to crocus cloth. The base of the clyinder block spins on the brass side of this plate so it is IMPORTANT to make it perfectly smooth, or it will again gouge the valve plate. THRUST PLATE (sits atop the brass slippers). This is hardened steel and requires precision grinder to resurface. It likely has near micro-scopic scratches, which is enough for HOT oil to bypass. The 9 slippers spin on this so it must be perfectly flat for the same reason as the valve plate. GEROTOR assy: Both sides of it have to be smooth, and each of 2 parts the same thickness. This sits in a round cavity on the back of the Charge Pump housing and the cavity is only slightly deeper than the gerotor is thick. So, if you grind a tenth off of the gerotor assy parts, then you must also grind a tenth from the back of the Charge Pump housing to maintain tolerance. PUMP END CAP: Lay it flat on surface plate and slide back/forth on emory paper to remove all signs of former life. Remove (save) all the O-rings and backup rings, then resurface the top of it in the same. The gerotor MAY have gouged this and all signs of the scars have to be removed. That's about the extent of refinishing surfaces, now do it again with the HYDRO MOTOR. It has nearly identical parts and the surface refacing is about the same. Use the kerosene to flush parts clean as you are working with them and set components aside in a plastic bag to keep clean. These Sundstrand Hydro units a highly susecptable to dirt of any kind so it is of UTMOST IMPORTANCE to keep your work area clean, and to flush clean every part / assembly as it is reworked. When reassembling the pump and motor unit, have at-hand a little bottle of RED Engine Assembly Oil. Put a drop or two of this RED oil on mating surfaces just so they are not bone dry when the whole thing is given the initial test run. Also note the location of the pin in the Charge Pump Housing. It must be oriented down...toward the motor. It can be mounted 180 deg out of phase, then nothing will work. Enjoy Here are a few pics that MAY be of assist:

You are way past my expertise...this is where I start watching and learning...those are great pictures. I hope the guys that know what you have there chime in.

You got that right...you post pictures and the members can see what you have and they will respond. No pictures and we get a little shy. Your pictures are great...makes it easy for us to help. You knew that.

this is what I'm using!

Had planned on using the C-120 earlier this winter, but just now got it set up the way I wanted it. Tonight was it's first workout in the snow and It did pretty well. Google decided my picture needed some animation, and I have to say I agree...

Wheel horse Snow Team 2013