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Well I had to dig a part of a auto 18 wheel horse tractor I thought it would be a cool picture take of the boneyard. hint this would be a great candidate pocture for next year's 2015 calendar. Thats about 2 feet of snow out there....Cant wait for spring

I've always been a woodworker at heart. Even though I could be working on one of my Wheel Horses, I got the notion to build something from wood. I have to back up a little to set up the background on this story. About 4 years ago, my wife and I were at a yard sale. We saw this really cool heavy-duty tricycle and wagon for sale.It is called a Yerf-Dog. We decided to buy it. My oldest grandson showed no interest in it at the time, but when my second oldest grandson was old enough to ride, you could not keep him off of it. Here is a picture of the tricycle and wagon from the original sales brochure (mine is in the shed for the winter, so no pictures). Well, the second grandson and his parents found a knock-off of the Yerf-Dog tricycle at a sale this summer, but no wagon. So for his 5th birthday last week, I built him a wagon. As you can see, it is painted Wheel Horse red of course. The body is made from hardwood plywood and maple. Side rails are from poplar, and the pneumatic tires are Harbor Freight specials. This picture is before the side rails were painted. This is the finished product. Now if you are wondering about the "Zirb-Dog" decal, my grandson's last name is Zirbel. When he got his tricycle, instead of calling it a Yerf-Dog, he called it his Zirb-Dog. So a great big thanks goes out to Terry the Vinylguy for making me these great decals. I just got them yesterday, and put them on the wagon today. So, what do you think?

I have one copy that generally sets on top of the toilet. Sorry, I have enjoyed the book immensely but that is where I keep it. I enjoy reading while I am doing my business and I never tire of thumbing through that little book so it is constantly being used. In no way was this intended to be disrespectful of the book or author, quite the opposite I have nothing but the highest regard for both. That said, you asked, and I simply answered honestly.

Looking through old photo albums this morning and found these. In 1982, I picked this up from a local farmer who just wanted it out of his shed. I got it free, mice and all. This might of been the first time my wife just shook her head when she saw what I drug home, something she's done several times since then. lol The cub was the first garden tractor that I had. Didn't need an engine hoist for this, after the engine was put together we just picked it up and put it in. The water pump drives off of the back of the generator. Regal Red If I remember correctly, the wheel track on this was about 4 feet wide. I remember sitting behind the steering wheel and sticking my hand out the passenger door window.

I have both and I guess it depends what you want to do. My 18 Auto was designated an "Estate Tractor" when they came out in 1973. In 1970 when the Ponds decided to break into this market, they wanted more horsepower than the GT 14 which stood for Garden Tractor 14 Horsepower and was the big boy on the block back then, a true 3 point hitch with separate controls for the mid hitch and rear 3 point. The D is a big tractor, made to do big work, and do it very comfortably. I would say its the predecessor to todays sub compact utility tractors. Saying that….its hulking size and power makes it best suited to wide open spaces. Hence why the 60 inch deck was mounted out back and the snowblower and tiller was huge compared to the C series implements at a the time. My D will push snow like a freight train….much more snow and much farther than my C series every will. Im hoping to get a tiller for the back this spring as I'm putting in a decent size garden here at the farm and it would make life much easier for me…and hey who DOESNT want to buy a new attachment…lol. So for mowing around the house and flower beds I would say is better suited for a C series, nice open ares are covered better with a D and a 60 inch deck. I liked the idea of a 60 so much I put one UNDER my 18 auto so I get the best of both worlds..maneuverability of a belly mower around the house and beds, with the coverage of the 60 inch deck in the wide open spaces here.

so I went out this evening after work and disconnected the battery, working one connection at a time I disconnected the connection, cleaned it with either a wire brush or emery cloth, rubbed dielectric grease on it and reconnected. I also ohm check for continuity on each wire using the DVOM, all wires had continuity. I did this on the starter relay solenoid and on the starter solenoid, I also checked and cleaned battery ground on the frame, and the connections at the ignition switch. after wards I came in and had a beer then went back out and it started! I swear it started faster, ran better and stronger (more power). I then left it outside in the freezing cold intentionally, it has always been very hard to start when left out in the cold overnight, and it started immediately. It would usually turn over real slow and finally "catch" and fire, this time it just turned over like it had never cooled off. I did wait about an hour for it to cool off in -2 degree ambient temperature. I can't thank everyone enough for thier patience and help with this issue, electrical is not my strong suit and I muddle through, if it wasn't for the assistance of you folks I would still be starting my Wheel Horse with a screwdriver. Thanks, RJMcEachern

Well...at least it's up on pedestal.

I will be ready in the Am when I put her back together. Just found my 1/4 key stock I had stashed

Leaving it sit for a few day should not be a problem. By the way, where is your "garage" located? You don't have to be specific, just the state would be fine. Answers to questions such as yours sometimes depend on where you are located. Climate can be a factor.

One of the side benefits of becoming a supporter... is that it will make the process of uploading picts into your posts so much easier. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/

Thanks for all your replies. Chazm, that is the picture that shows it all. Thanks for the pic.

Nice job Bob... I imagine these trailers would look awesome at a tractor show being towed behind a little RJ too.

Mike- Did you make sure that you added $5000 for it being a chevy?

All three proudly displayed in my "in the house" man cave,,,the first edition signed by Cecil,his wife, & Mike,,,second signed by Cecil & Mike,,,,final signed by Mike.

Is this what your looking for ??

in hindsight, you will remember to take pics before disassembly next time? most of the mechanical items placement is very similar from model to model. asking lots of questions or searching for pics is going to be your only option here. i have a few 3,4,500 series tractors and will help with whatever i can, fire away and see what we can do. the pto spring placement is similar over a bunch of tractors, its probably inside the hood stand. look for a hole in the actuating arm for the cotter pin.. if you need a pic of where the other end of the spring hooks to i will try and get one today. google is going to be your friend here too......

I just wanted to say after being on here for a few years and seeing how the European buddies we have on Red Square have grown their participation, great contributions and innovative interaction on the website, we sure can learn a lot from you folks in the Wheel Horse department! I find myself "peeking" into the Europe forum more and more! A big thank you for all you do on Red Square.

As we have had a few new members recently and as I have just been ordering parts I thought the following comparison might be useful to anyone new into restoring here. ($ converted to £) NOTES Ordering from the US there is no VAT to pay when goods in a package enter this country if the value of the goods within the package is under £15. The order listed above would need to be ordered and sent as the separate items shown to avoid VAT There is possibly a saving to be made on shipping if they were sent as one consignment but then there would be VAT to pay on import and carriers like the Post Office also levy a charge on top for collecting it. Delivery time from the US varies between 7 - 14 days and is generally about 10 days in my experience. Ordering from my local Toro dealer by phone and credit card took perhaps 10 minutes including the time taken for the guy to check prices for me and that they were in stock here in the UK with Hayter (which they were). Hayter hold and distribute Toro Wheel Horse spares in the UK but you cannot deal with them directly. The parcel arrived next morning by Fedex directly from Hayter but does need signing for. If a particular part is not in stock here in the UK it can take some time to arrive but my experience is that it is sent on as soon as it does arrive with no additional postage charge. I deliberately compared the overall costs of genuine OEM parts using an Outdoor Power dealer in the US but for individual OEM items there are times when private vendors in the US on ebay have specific parts to offer at some very good prices. It is important to do your research before you decide where to buy. Having the correct part numbers ready when contacting a Toro agent saves quite a bit of time. Unfortunately some of the part numbers given on the Toro lookup site have been superseded but they don't always update this. I use the 'Partstree' site in the US for this as their part numbers seem to be kept up to date. Unfortunately Partstree will not ship to the UK though. A lot has changed in the last three years since I started needing WH parts. Toro bought Hayter and used them to distribute parts here at more reasonable prices than they had been charging previously. There seems to be a better stock now in the UK and delivery is vary fast. I still buy stuff including new OEM parts from the US but less than I did. Finally worth mentioning that some OEM parts for older WHs are NLA on either side of the pond. Sometimes NOS stuff appears for sale in the US. Red Square is a good place for information about equivalent replacements when it comes to bearings etc though there are cases where no equivalent exists. Hope this is of some interest and help - I'm sure other UK members will chip in with other useful information Andy

I can get the V-Blade 417A ready for you! keys are in it and full of gas!

Come on up Van, keys are in it.

Is it a trick of the light or the snow perhaps but those tractors look to be way better than what we manage to buy over here to restore! Andy

Yeah, that's hot...the centerfold right there.

it isn't but its kind of like mine... im going to change it to one of mine.

Short sleeve weather Short sleeve weather

Weld it solid Bob? As in weld all the arms together? If thats all it takes I'll give that a shot tomorrow….

glad your back in business

Garry beat me to it :)

Hi, We've had a few B-111's the 4 speed trannys are peerless and use EP90 oil. 99% certain the 6 speed foote trannys are packed with bentonite grease like the old westwood gearbox. If there's no filler or drain, then it's full of grease :)

Here is the lube chart Foote service manual Garry

What kind of Tacho Mark, Digital?. Edit:- forget that , just seen it in the Elec Forum

When I adjusted mine I had the wheels off the ground. Very touchy adjustment. When I got the wheels to stop turning, all I had to do was break wind and they would start turning.

I sent a PM to you earlier with the a pic of the WRONG lift arm... here is the CORRECT LIFT ARM. I am: daveoman@windstream.net

I guess I am lucky. I have never overpaid for anything. My wife says its because I am a cheap SOB. (I have no idea what she is talking about). If I see a tractor I need? Then I will work out a deal. If it needs work? All the better. I never become attached to equipment and I am always willing to trade or barter everything. (Including my boys) BTW, I will trade 2 of them for something that does'nt only come by when it wants something. I can't trade the missus though. She's too mean. Never think you overpaid for anything????And, you won't.

I had a mechanical one that pumped okay, but continued to seep at the diaphragm. I took the two halves apart, sanded them on a flat surface, then carefully added a small amount of Teflon pipe sealant to both surfaces, snugged the screws and have not had a leak since.

where can you get these books ive seen them once and a while but never thought about reading them maybe id learn something

Well the manual says between .003 and .020. Are you at .13/.14 or .013/.014? If youre at .013/.014 I would say you are within spec. You probably could remove one thin shim if you wanted and still be within spec but its up to you at that point. Hope this helps. Joel

Well it's been said already, I am sure it will be repeated several times over. Yes, been there done that but, it doesn't much matter if someone sees something they can't live without, then it's all over except for getting it home and enjoying your spoils. How many times has this happened? Too many times and still enjoying!!!

Good way to test the binding and paper quality!! My 2nd and 3rd ed.'s sit next to my Packer Books and my Tonka Buyer's guide! Below that is my LAGT Magazine collection.

I bought some steel plate that was already cut into rounds, then just drilled the mounting holes in them, they are about 50 or 55 pounds 1 and half or so thick if I remember right

Excellent tip - thanks!!!!!!!

The Isle of Man UK TT Motor Cycle race Known as The Greatest Show On Earth . Every year this event takes place Well worth watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D09yD0MN4Vg

Resurrecting oldie but I made some more progress with my dad on truly finishing this tractor. I never put the headlights in or wired them and the fender lights. It needs major work getting the plow squared away but we are about halfway on that and it has a fully functioning sealed exhaust manifold again. My Dad welded the cast-iron and we installed a stud instead of a bolt. I used an allen wrench to hold the stud from twisting and tightened the manifold. Its got the pipe to raise it above the hood level in an effort to stoop the black spots and get the exhaust out of my face..heres some pics to show things as they sit tonight…. exhaust and stack with flapper rear LED tail lights front Amber LED on the fenders instead of reflectors…stink in headlights burned out after about 3 minutes... close up of the stud we welded to the cast iron block. Very strong bond and no exhaust leaks

Since the weights are usually found free around here, and I did not want to pay the $80.00 for a special bracket available on eBay I came up with my own design made up from strut brackets easily available at Home Depot for about $10.00 per wheel. It also works out that these are easily removable in order to remove wheel since one can remove it from front.

Here they are completed . 50lbs per wheel at less than $20.00 total.

When ever I have sold a WH part on the bay I always encourage the buyer to join the RS community.. A couple have signed up although they don't post much or at all! A few have been members already but both the buyer and I haven't known it until the deal had been done But for some reason a lot of buyers have no interest in joining a forum at all !! I need to do some RS promotion on my videos... Karl, would it be ok to use a few RS screen shot's in my vids?

Hey, I don't think most of us see ourselves as a separate group! There might be a few thousand miles of ocean, but the power of the inter web brings us bit closer... Gotta love redsquare :)

My brother David and I had the best time at the Prairieland Heritage Museum Show held in Jacksonville, Illinois this weekend. We were amazed at the number and full variety of Wheel Horse tractors, attachments and Red Square members that attended and made this a great event ! The designation of the Wheel Horse as the garden tractor of the year brought folks for hundreds of miles -especially from Minnesota, Missouri, Iowa, Illinois and Indiana! I have photos from three different cameras and I am posting a few for all to see. The two highlights of the show for me were the Minnesota Red Square Members, Joe Nelson , Jason Schahl, Terry Mooney they came a great distance and brought some great Wheel Horse tractors! The second thing that was great to me was meeting 90 year old Earl L. McEvers of Whitehall, Illinois who came and sat with the Wheel Horse folks for half of the day on Friday and conversed with everyone he could. He is a Wheel Horse fan (and Cub Cadet and hit and miss engines) and he was involved with the early stages of setting up the Prairieland Heritage Museum in Jacksonville, Illinois 45 years ago. He came to the show on Friday because Wheel Horse was designated tractor of the year. I will have another post on Earl's hit and miss road grade with some photos of a really interesting piece of machinery he made. Now for the photos: IMG_3455.MOV

I took a few pictures. It was great to see everyone and meet a few new guys. I sure would like to see more of "jwl's" collection, and ELECTRORIC had a very nice collection there...some very nice round hoods. Great meeting and talking with you guys. WH500Special (Steve) and his dad (Tom) brought the Pond Senior and Lever Steer and a couple of others...always nice seeing them at a show. Got to meet jbumgarner also...a pleasure sir. This is my Dad's 502 that I sold to JoeBob a couple of years ago. What a difference. I love what he did with it. I'll throw two before pictures in here. After... My 702 and 857 Martin's horses Steve's (WH500Special) jwl brought some nice walk behinds...he let me sit on his sulky. ELECTRORIC on the left talking horses... Dave, JoeBob, jwl (Jeff) and Lane... Jason talking horses... They staged us right across from the hit&miss engines. They had a ton of these there...got to listen to them run all weekend.

Here it is 99.75% complete. I'm just waiting for my new L.E.D. headlights to come in. As many can see its got a 60" in deck under her. I was able to adapt a 60" deck from a 520 to fit where the factory stuck a 48. I wish the factory would have thought of this back in '73. I must say its quite the lawn mowing beast. I think it scares the grass when its coming. I can see the blades tremble in fear. The down side is I believe I have a pretty serious carb/governor issues. I have adjusted both the low speed and high speed mixture screws. It starts and idles well, but it really doesnt like running with the throttle wide open. It also sounds like its not reaching max rpm at W.O.T. Once the deck is engaged, it really lugs down. It seems like the governor is working ( I can see it moving the throttle rod) but it just doesnt seem as if its opening the throttle enough under load to compensate. How do I find what RPM the engine is running at W.O.T.? Is there an adjustment for the governor that I can make to make sure it adjusts higher under load? I'm kinda bummed that I'm having an issue after all this work but I will get through this also. Its been a long road but the end has got to be near. :confusion-helpsos:

thanks rmaynard we have a picture of the new 603