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Can you imagine if the Big Show was this weekend??? Snow plowing competition, jousting with snow blowers, huge bonfires, roasting marshmallows, hot chocolate, chile by the cup at the concession stand, hot toties, angels in the snow...OMG...where is my lawn chair??? Where is the snow chucker?? Listening to "California Dreaming". It would be like being at Scott's Meet & Greet"!!! Snow skitching behind a horse. We need to celebrate winter with the horses. What do you think. :banana-skier: :banana-skier: How about Wheel Horse Hockey???

Did he say snow angels?

Firing up the 1977 B-100 to get started on the 4" now, 8" to 10" total to come later. Pictures will follow. So, here's the old man all bundled up in his snow suit. The 1977 B-100 has been sitting out all winter, just covered with a tarp. As I have said before, it never fails me. I grabbed the video camera and started to take a video after I started it. Don't you just love the sound of a properly tuned Kohler singing in the snow? View from the drivers seat as I plow snow in 3rd gear.

I'm crazy but still love the cold. proper training and equipment and warm Glühwein are the key!

Unless the carburetor is so completely worn out or broken, there should be no reason to have to replace it. New and used carburetors can be found on eBay at times. However, I have rebuilt 5 K181/K161 carburetors within the last 3 years, and the process is relatively straight forward. First, if you don't already have it, go to the "manuals" section of the forum and download the Kohler K-Series Service Manual. Then go to section 6 and read about carburetors. The #22 carburetor that you are working on is fairly simple. Get a carburetor kit either from eBay, your local Kohler dealer or wherever you can find one. I usually watch the internet until I find them cheap and buy them in quantity so I always have one on hand. To properly clean and repair the carburetor, it must be removed from the engine. Clean the exterior with something like brake cleaner or kerosene to remove old dirt and oil. Then, after removing the bowl, gaskets, float and float needle, remove the main needle and idle needle. Then soak the carburetor and all the parts overnight in some kind of cleaner. Some guys swear by Berryman's Chem Dip, other use plain kerosene or even lacquer thinner. But soaking is the only way to loosen and dissolve the gunk on the inside of the carburetor. After it has soaked, remove the carburetor body and blow it out with compressed air. Install the new float valve kit per the instructions. Adjust the float level per the instructions. Install new gaskets, bowl, nut and new washer. Look at the long needle valve. You will see quite a few tiny little holes, some near the bottom, middle and top. Those holes must be clean. That tube is hollow and it must be clean. You must be able to pass air through the length of the tube and in and out of the little holes. Reinstall it with it's spring, back into the carburetor until it softly bottoms out, then back it out 2 turns. Clean the idle jet and screw it back in the same way, and back it out 1-1/4 turns. Next thing to check is the throttle shaft. There should be little or no side to side movement. If there is movement, air will be sucked into the carburetor along the throttle shaft and cause other issues. Repairing this problem will be covered later it necessary.

HELLO JD, HERE IS MY SK I BOUGHT NEW. I PUT A NEW NOS SEAT ON IT THIS WINTER. I STILL HAVE THE PLASTIC DECK WHEELS. THEY ARE GREAT TRACTORS

I don't understand why so many here think that chains just eat up or destroy a concrete or asphalt driveway? I have both and coat my asphalt every few years. It always looks fine in the spring when the snow melts. Driving over it with your vehicle puts a lot more stress on it then driving over it with your light little wheel horse. I guess if you just constantly spun your chained wheels in one spot it could do some damage, but normal passes should be fine if you have good quality asphalt or concrete.

My biggest problem is I'll rack my brain for hours trying to solve a problem. Then I'll wake up at 3 in the morning ( like us old guys do ) and the light will go on in my head! Happens all the time

I am BIG on trying to solve any problem I have by searching first, posting questions second. As on many other forums, we have a HUGE QUANTITY of threads that will deal with the exact same problem(s) I have. There are always plenty of suggestions for solutions, but many times the OP never comes back to respond with the solution. PLEASE GIVE US THE OUTCOME.... PLEAAAAASE. I suggest that we should have a way to mark the threads as [PROBLEMS] then after so long the system will come back and ask the OP if the problem was [sOLVED] and if so, post about it. Anyway...

WELL ... You Guys asked for it ... So here ya go... enjoy...

Jim...we would not have to pull the snow chucker...and count me in on the ice cream... didn't we pull that all the way back to Michigan that year??

Gosh Steve -- You must have permanent anti-freeze in your blood stream (I suppose that would be Rocking Rye, correct) -- My memory tells me that when you stay out for that long you get cold, and then you never can get warm again -- Sure you can get your back side smoking hot next to the fire but the front will be cold -- Must be my thin blood and advancing years talking to me

Cruise night with toboggans in tow!

Not like the "regular" loaders you have here but it's a kind of loader and it works real good!

These pictures are of the 1958 841 Ford Powermaster I rebuilt through the Winter 2 years ago. I bought it from the original owner. The blue looks lighter in color, than it really is, because the sun is reflecting off the chat, I guess.

She plows like a champ!!!! Driveway has already been plowed 2x! Patience Stormin, I am sure you will get your share Now I need one of them "fancy" plastic cab covers...man it is cold out there Semper Fi

It will be a surprise. Just have to wait till the show

How many here ride their tractor up the ramps and how many walk it up? How many have had a ramp kick out or the tractor come off the ramps while loading with you on it? Did you learn anything? I walk the tractor up in 1st gear while walking beside it. When it gets in the bed I just slap it out of gear then shut it off. I used to walk behind the tractor until one time I slapped it too hard and put it into reverse. Next thing I knew, the tractor was pushing me backwards as it came back down the ramps. So, being that it out weighed me I let it do what it wanted. I then tried it again, walking next to it, and didn't slap it quite as hard. I guess if I was a tractor, I'd try to run over the SOB that slapped me too.

I'm with ya pal! Id be out in the snow on my horse if I had the chance!

I guess I got really lucky with the first parade I had the 875 in. We got there 1/2 hour early and the parade officials made us rush to get unloaded and the ramp slid off the trailer that was about 14" from the ground. the tractor rolled over right on of top of me. I was very lucky I was not hurt at all, but did get the blood flowing quits fast. If it wasn't for the stack muffler, I think the outcome would have been much different. This was 2 weeks after I had finished the restore on it and did do some real damage to the tractor. I know walk along side of the tractor and have made pins in my ramps that fit into holes in the tail gate so the ramps can not come out. Lesson learned and I warn every one I see trying to ride a tractor up a set of ramps. I think that could have avoided all this damage if I wasn't in a rush and walked next to the tractor.

Chasm...now that is what I am talking about!!! OMG...those pictures are great...no bugs!!! Thanks Mate.. It's sooner then you think ...

Hope the pipes aren't froze in the bathrooms.

Round Two. I am very impressed how this old horse runs. 8 years ago it was all kinds of trouble, now, its like a new tractor. I'm thankful for tearing into and just starting all over with the wiring , fuel lines, carb , governor and so on. Not to mention all the great info hear. Its 10 degrees. Fired right up , left it warm up, open the throttle and it never misses a beat. Not a single hiccup.

How 'bout some chocolate covered cicadas?

Try this:

The ice-cream social would be a bust.... Mike...........

I bet snow blades and snow blowers would sell for 3 times the $ in the goodies area! Get a big snow slay and tie it up to 8 horses to take people for rides, and the kids could make snow sculptures. The snowmobile could also be used at the show! Sounds like fun!! but i'm sleeping in a nice warm motel!!

Here's a banana walking back and forth carrying parts!

Ok , Here's mine. My good ole gt14 , resting under the tarp after round one. We got about 4 inches so far. I tried plowing up my drive way this time and there was no problems. Pushed the snow right up it with no slipping. I don't even have weights , just chains, but these gt14's weigh a ton. I just bought this house and don't know the neighbors that well. I am starting to feel bad plowing my driveway and they are all shoveling. I guess I should be nice and ask .... lol I'm also a little mad my blower bearings didn't come yet as this would be a great time to try it out. I hope we get some more snow after they come!! Kyle

Counter clockwise looking at the front of the tractor. Had to go check my owners manual to be sure lol

Chasm...I know who the clown is.

Rain, rain and more rain here. Will I EVER get to use the plough I made?

From my experience, the edge of the blade will wear out before it can damage the driveway. The blade should be attached with a link to the tractor that allows for the blade to float up and down, so it should not be putting any more down force on the driveway than its own weight. You can check this by putting the blade all the way down, with the tractor off, grab the top edge of the blade in the center and lift. You should be able to lift the blade 6"+ if it has the link for float attached. There is a link that provides a solid connection between the tractor and the plow, and it is good if you need to generate down force to scrape or dig into the dirt a little. I have one, but don't use it very often. Keep an eye on the wear of the blade edge. Don't let it wear down so much that you are dragging the curved blade on the driveway. Most edges can be flipped over so you can wear down both edges before needing to replace it. Looks like you will get to make a test run later today. Rick

JD and BOWTIE, those are two mighty fine looking tractors you have there! JD, I really don't see how I could bring myself to using that tractor of yours to do any work with. Seriously that would be my ride to the mailbox tractor.

I don't know what I like better, the Rhino Dino head or the box!

I knew it couldn't be that easy.

I WILL BE THERE. I HAVE BEEN GOING EVERY YEAR THAT THEY HAVE HAD THE SHOW. I AM 85 BUT STILL MAKE IT. THANKS AGAIN.

I just subscribed a couple weeks ago. I met the managing editor at last years WHCC show in PA She is a member on this forum as well. waiting patiently for my first issue. tractorchick

Seriously, if water has been in there that long and you keep getting rust out of there when you change the oil...it is time to open the trans and see what is bad. The 701 is an easy trans to tear down...threads and videos of how to do that are on this site. If you want to try flushing it out and see what you get by draining it...drain and add 2 or 3 qts of diesel...put the tractor level on blocks (jack up the front also) and run it in all gears for about 20 minutes total. Jack the front up higher (there is a wing dam that runs across the trans on the bottom that would hold fluid unless you get the trans high enough in front to drain completely). This should maybe get most of the rust out of the bearings...oil is not going to do that. Do twice if you think the trans can take it...then add oil. My professional opinion...try this to get through the winter...open the trans in the spring and clean, replace seals and questionable bearings. YOU will NOT know what you have inside if you do not open it and do it the right way...we will walk you through the process...and you will have a trans that will last another 60 years. Guaranteed. Stop wasting oil.

It is still great that the information is here on Red Square to have the people and resources to figure things out...along with the since of humor...very cool. and it is free!!!

I've posted these pics many times here on Redsquare, and these tires get my vote still after two years of use. They are the 10.5's mounted on the 8-1/2 wide rims so they sit flat. They dont rip up my lawn (unless you dump the clutch of course) and have been great these past two winters pushing snow with a 48" blade. I have a total of 75#'s of cast weights on each rim and keep the air pressure set low. I know your not into the looks of the tire but as an added bonus I think these look awesome! Mike............

Um, if you wanna talk fancy, check out my ride just a few posts above yours.

Not as fancy as some of ya'll's but it will get the job done Semper Fi

Here you go https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=804759479550962. RMCIII what type of heater did you put in your cab? Was it just for defogging the windshield?

"Please start before the recoil spring breaks" I hate frickin' Tecumsehs.

Bright, flashing lights attract idiots like magnets. They focus on you instead of paying attention to the road.

Sho aint ez But keep trying,Bin ther don that When you do master it ,all your senses will be more acute and it will be worth it ALL.

Do not use slime! A previous owner of my b 80 used slime on one of the tires, when I removed the tire for restoration, the wheel was badly corroded. All the other wheels were fine but that one was a mess inside and out. It is a quick easy fix but it sure messes things up. Get tubes.

Sorry, A little late for the party. Here's my customized C-520 (with C-160 sheetmetal) and a factory FEL from 1974.

"And don't call me Shirley" Sorry I had to do it...