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Finally was able to go get my pair of 857s for 150.00 today. They need a little love but are complete except for one deck missing a lot but it will be used for parts. Engines are free so this should be an easy fix to get one running. A lot of you may think this was a great deal but I find myself regretting ever seeing them. It will take a LOT to make one useable. That involves time and money. All belts are rotted. The SGs will need attintion all cables and idler pullys frozen plus who know about the deck driveline. I will have to think hard before dumping them to hopefully get my money back. I think these horses turned out to be "nags".

Probably a neck brace, and his other arm's in a sling.

My son's partner gave me the following photos taken around 1980ish. Her family owned Hasley Manor and Morton Manor on the Isle of Wight at that time. Her uncle is tending his horse while her grandfather looks on at Morton Manor Another uncle cleaning the wheel of his steed at Hasely Manor. Please don't bother sending begging PMs - the money in her family all went a long time ago! Period photos of WHs like this seem quite rare so I thought I'd share them. Andy

They have grown on me when they run right their really fun I pull everything with my little ranger

A few months ago, I would have jumped on the tecky-hater band wagon with some of the rest of you, but after a few months of owning a C-160 with an OH160 Tecky in it, I've decided I really like this one. It starts as easy as my Kohlers do, and runs really strong! Matt

If the clearance is too tight you can burn a valve as it doesn't contact the seat correctly and seal the cylinder properly. The fact that the noise changes as you adjust them points to it being a valve / tappet noise. Sometimes with a used valve or a used lifter (If the ends of each haven't been reground square) you can end up with a surface with a ridge in it that makes it difficult to measure the clearance on with a feeler gauge. Onan twins can trap you on this one. From memory of the Kohler singles, I don't think its likely on a Kohler. I work on 100 year old Automotive engines where the clearance is .002" on the intakes and .004 on the exhausts. Its not uncommon to have to run thru the clearances 2 or 3 times to get them quiet, .001 too big and they're as noisy as hell.

After being on order for a month it finally came in. Before After

X2 on the fifth hole in the mounting plate being for the lift cable on the hydro tractors. The "serrations" on the differential end cap are probably chatter marks from the tool used to spot-face the "pad" where the nut seats. The object of the game is keeping the through-bolts tight. High-quality locknuts and thread locker are your friends. Here's what happened to a friend's '86 417-8 tranz when a through-bolt decided to pass under the ring gear:

looks like you have to use Snap-on tools if you want them to run rite

You think that guy is wearing a tie??? I can't tell in the picture. I like the band aid by his left thumb though.

just do a search on Amazon for led 1156 replacement and you'll have several choices. they are expensive at autozone

Back in October I picked up a nice 857. Didn't know if it ran or not because the carburetor was missing, but the overall condition of the tractor was good. So, I brought it home and put a rebuilt carburetor on it. It started and ran great with the exception that it was a heavy smoker. I haven't decided whether to leave the metal as-is, or do a complete repaint, but I knew that something had to be done about the engine. So two weeks ago, after the single-digit weather warmed up and the snow melted, I removed the engine and began my engine rebuild. First observation after removing the head revealed a lot of carbon, and some oil sitting on top of the piston. The cylinder did not look bad, so I measured it with my new bore gauge. The cylinder was still within the acceptable tolerances of a STD bore, There were no scratches or ridges, so the decision to just hone it made sense to me. So, I just received my new Ball Flex-Hone yesterday, and that will be the next step. My local, very reputable but expensive machine shop charged me $125.00 to hone the cylinder, lap the valves, and polish the crankpin last year on my K161, so I decided that $35.00 for a Flex-Hone was a good deal. The crankshaft didn't look bad, so after removing it, I measured the crankpin. 1.185" and no out of round. Since 1.185 is the maximum wear limit, I decided to Plastigage the crankpin to connecting rod clearance. I got a measurement of .003. Since the maximum wear limit is .0025, I pulled out a brand new Kohler connecting rod that I had purchased earlier and Plastigaged the clearance with that. I got a measurement of .0175. So based on that, I am installing a new rod on the old crankshaft. Since I am not sure of the source of oil burning, I measured the valve guides. Tolerances were also within specs. The intake and exhaust valves were not bad, just dirty, but the intake valve had about .001" wear on the stem. So I have decided to install a new set of Kohler valves. I lapped them in, and they are now ready to install. The piston also looks real good. It measured within acceptable specs, and also is not scratched or scored. A new set of Kohler rings should solve the oil burning problem. Okay, that it for now. As progress is made, I will update.

I have fond memories of my grandfather's Wheel Horse when I was growing up. It has always been a dream of mine to restore his old horse. This Christmas I drove up to the old family farm in Indiana from Tennessee with a trailer in tow to rescue if from rotting away behind the shed. To my horror, I found it to be GONE! Whether stolen by someone who appreciates what they got, or God forbid by a scrapper I don't know. All I have are my memories and a dream of one day finding one just like the one I lost and restoring it in my grandfather's memory. I looked through a stack of old photo albums and found this one old picture of my dad on it back in the 80's. Can anyone tell me what model it is? I'm rather ignorant of Wheel Horse history and any information would be greatly appreciated!

Its definitely a strong runner Craig, and when you load it hard, and the governor kicks the throttle, its got a real nice bark out the exhaust pipe. My only complaint, is the undersized fuel tanks on these 's. 16hp, and a small fuel tank don't go together very well, so I try not to stray to far from the gas can! Matt

Yeah Boy, I want one too. Maybe some day........................

Well that's an awfully long name "Other Euro Brands of Vintage Reel/Cylinder Mowers and other Walk Behinds etc" maybe we can shorten that a little bit to "Other Euro Brands" (Maybe it's there now?)

As soon as I can figure how to explain it to the mrs. Any tips or pointers? Glenn Endless possible lines come to mind: 'We found another in the woods and I've been given this one.' or 'It was the only size they had in stock and I'm getting so much more for my money' or perhaps 'Haven't you always told me to think big!' Seriously Glenn, that tractor's got D owners and D owner wannabes droolin'. Andy

You said that you just rebuilt the engine. What all did you do? Did you do it yourself? Did you replace the valves or have them ground? Did you check to see that a valve seat may be loose? Did you have the valve guides measured to make sure that they weren't worn?

Every 8-pinion differential I have pulled,,Being in an 8-speed or a hydro the locking nuts have been on the bolt side and not the nut side...if you needs parts to fix I have them on hand... Mike.

Did you have the piston on TDC of the compression stroke?

Ignition switch connector body: http://www.pcsconnectors.com/2973422.aspx The "3 in a row" 15AMP R/R connector body is Kohler p/n 236602 The connector body for the old 10AMP "L pattern" terminals is Kohler p/n 237429

I still think you stole 'em.

sorry I don't have pics yet but my buddy has a 1955 in real good running condition everything works he was wondering what something like this was worth, has been repainted any idea's guys of only seen 3 others on the net, I've seen a 54' and 56 which are the same, ok I finally had time to get pics of her today and this is it see what you think?

You know...... I tried to start another forum for homebuilt projects, that site doesn't look like it's going to continue so...... I know that there are other sites out there, but if you feel that there's an audience for a "RedSquare" of other types tractors, I can convert that site to GTInternational.com or gtshed.com.

I tried to adjust the original, but didn't get very far. I see what could very well be a (1962) 552 That is based entirely on the shape of the foot pedal & the Tecumseh engine / headlights.

To all FYI I just got off the phone with Lutco who makes the radial bearing that are on the cross shaft. They will not sell them to us, but they told me of another comapny that will. I hate to say it but JD's use the same bearing Lutco/ JD part number AA22098.I did a qwick on line check and found it for $16. I am going to get one from my local dealer and make sure next week. Good luck guys!

Right,sorted and paid You are correct with the non WH section I do indeed have a collection of non WH machines, wasn't sure if they were relevant here ?? That was fast, I seem to have turned red...

I too would like a working board, with working lights, LED or otherwise. I do like the lcd display with lots of good info. Once I chase the other electrical issues down, and rebuild the tranny, it's next on the list.

It's a major award. It should go right in the front window.

There is a farm tractor dealer near me that have the o-ring thread to 1/4" Flare adapters both male threads . Then they made me a hose with 1/4"female swivel flare ends. I had a GT-14 that leaked at the swivel at the trans. That's how I got it fixed. If I remember right it was 1 90 degree fitting and 1 straight.

I am starting to like the way a lot of them look without restoration. In fact I now regret restoring one of my old rusty horses.

Uh Ohh, Time to become a Supporter cause' we like pics!

I keep going to the garage to see if it has shown up here yet and is mating with my SK486. Yours looks so much nicer I think the offspring would look good. Marvin

Crack pics. Glenn Cracked pics. Glenn

Sing? Heck, I have 2 of his records!

Steve you are too modest you're a Natural. If you were on the Weather Channel, Direct TV would have no problem forking over the Benjamins to keep it on the dish!

I tried the Torrington number at Napa and they couldn't find one but that doesn't mean that they aren't available. The dealer had it in stock... Dean

In the Cross ref link I post above has the cross over to # 1532 Torrington # M-­â€16121 MOTION IND #00090903 Hopes this helps

Did you check the cross reference post

How "F-R-A-G-I-L-E" is it?

Jabronie or Gibronie is Italian slang for a "Loser". Thanks for watching this addition of "Early 20th Century Italian Slang". "Early 20th Century Italian Slang" is made possible by a grant from the Sicilian Brownies, (formerly la Costa Nostra), and Whatsamatta U and by viewers like you. Thank you for your support!

Ian, Thanks for your comments. Let me put a link to the one video and you can see if it works. As far as U-Tube...do I need to create an account to upload...I really have no idea what needs to happen here. Do I need to create files or categories??

I have also had the tube taken out,I just don't see the point.If you puncture he tube you have to break it down and patch it. What is the purpose of tubes in new tires ? If the new tire is leaking the shop will make it good. And some folks don't want to spend $200. on tires they cant afford,or just don't need,if an inexpensive and easy fix will do.

This One Used To Do It. But Now It's My Back Up. This Chucker Took Over The Duty.

I didn't mean etch primer I just meant use 2k to mist over everything to give the paint that matte, etched look so hopefully scotch bringing wouldn't be needed..I like the idea of the alcohol. I'll get some. If I get the cross fire top coat to match my primer, will I need to scotch brute everything again? It recommends 600 grit sanding primer before applying top coat..

Must have missed this topic the first time around

Here is a pic of mine (same pic I used in a separate post recently). Haven't had much of a chance to tinker with the loader. I will likely remove it and bring it and the tractor into the basement for some basic maintenance and may be a bit of paint on the loader. This will be a winter project. Anyhow - wanted to make a showing on this thread!

The front bucket on the Kwikways and the D Series loaders are huge! I'll have to look at Matt's footpedal conversion again. The steering wheel motion lever is a pain with the loader but the ARK doesn't give my size 13 footwear much room as it is. As a safety feature though.........it is almost impossible to run the loader controls and the tractor controls at the same time without steering with my nose! (Which I vowed never to do again)!

"Elvis"

Ok. I tested the compression and I have between 85 and 90 PSI. I did start poking around with the plug though and it seems as though I'm not getting a good consistent spark. My next step is to investigate that.