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Bein laid off ain't easy,you find yourself with all this time!I started and finished a project of necessity this am.I needed a convenient weight hanger up front for roto tillin and ground plowing so I took an old mule drive from the sixties,married it to a newer three hole mount and welded a piece of schedule 40 one inch iron pipe to a worn out newer belt drive and viola,a unihorse is born.Now I can hang or spear any weight with a hole!

Keep it away from any wheel mares.

Can you at lease put a cushion on it .... Just a little pointy for my fat azz...

5:30PM, back from TSC. Picked up some grade 5 bolts and I'm back to installing the bearing plate. I started out by only installing the gasket and no shims. The range of crankshaft end play is .002 to .023. .002 was a no go. So the bearing plate came back off and I got my pack of shims. I decided to try 2 shims. The result was .012. That is where I left it. Now I am going to back up a step or two, since I did a few things without the camera nearby. First, after honing the cylinder, I installed the governor thrust washer, and governor gear, cross-shaft, brass nut, and stop pin. Then I installed the valve tappets and camshaft. The camshaft end play is adjusted by a shim or shims. With the proper shim(s) in place, the end play should measure between .005 and .010". Mine measured a happy .008" Before installing the camshaft and crankshaft, I use a white paint pen to highlight the timing marks on each piece. Then, when the two are put together, I can easily see that they are properly lined up I installed new rings and a new connecting rod. The battery in my camera died, so no pictures. More later...

Here's my solution to people that "can't see" a big red tractor in the road when I'm plowing out the end of my driveway. 3 LED's in a 3/4 inch fixture Bright even in daytime. Plus I cleaned up the headlamp housing and bezel. Installed new bulbs. If they don't see me coming now they must be blind.

I picked this up a couple of weeks before Christmas but have not had a chance to post it until now. (Christmas came early for me) It's a 1982 SK-486 in excellent shape. 8 speed, 16 horse Kohler. There is even still some original paint here and there on the under side of the mowing deck. Since this picture was taken I have replaced the missing roller on the deck and put a new correct shifter knob on the transmission shifter (also removed the silly boat sticker). It lived in northern michigan at a cottage its entire life and seen very little use. I am extremely happy with it! It's a true gem. I am really looking forward to cutting grass with it for many years to come.

"Please run, Please Run!"

An interesting story comes to mind when talking about hands. In 1975, I went to work for an office equipment company in Baltimore. One of the three owners of the business was an inventor. He had several interesting patents. One day a salesman came into the office to discuss a business arrangement with this owner. Our business at the time was the exclusive distributor for dictation equipment and calculators to such hospitals and colleges as Johns Hopkins, University of Maryland, and so on. We also had exclusive distribution rights on the entire east coast for Norelco. He offered him the exclusive rights to market a new product. Said this product was going to revolutionize the medical industry. The owner rejected the offer saying that this product would never catch on. What was it? Disposable latex gloves.

My guess.... The owner has a rear implement such as a moldboard plow, cultivator, or disc that he wants to raise / lower independently of the dozer blade, using a single hyd lift system (as is on the 520H). That bracket MAY be used to hold the floating dozer blade in the full UP position while he can raise / lower the rear attachment, without letting the dozer blade down at the same time. In other words, he uses this to NOT push dirt on the front end while plowing dirt at the rear end.

........ and it did run once I'd cleaned and adjusted the points! I've got Kohlers, an Onan, a Briggs and a Tecky in my stable - haven't been beaten by any of them yet! Just sayin guys oops, incoming!

Craig, you look so young! (Picture taken in living room this past Thanksgiving)

I found led replacements for the original T1156 bulbs. I plan on ordering them because led's give off less heat, produce more light and won't melt my new 36 dollar lens!

Bright, flashing lights attract idiots like magnets. They focus on you instead of paying attention to the road.

I had the same clutching problems on my Pappys Allis Chalmers. I could get the clutch in by sliding off the seat and putting my back against the front of the seat. I get goose bumps when I remember the number of times I backed that old AC's drawbar up to equipment while Pappy held up the tongue and dropped in the pin.

Growing up in the 70's working on tractors and cars, something always needed cleaning and or painting. I filled a coffee can with gas, mineral spirits, diesel, kero, thinner, brake cleaner, whatever the job called for, tossed the parts in and scrubbed as needed. Never once did I think about wearing gloves. I don't remember seeing anyone wearing gloves back then. Today, I have a couple boxes of disposable gloves in the shop all the time. It is now second nature for me to put on gloves before working on the greasy stuff, or working with solvents. Many times I even put on my mechanics gloves when refueling just to avoid getting gas on the hands. Anytime I go into a professional garage these days I see all of the mechanics wearing gloves. Times have really changed when it comes to wearing hand protection. Now that we know much more about the effects of chemicals and their ability to enter the body through the skin, gloves just plain make sense. I can still remember going to high school and being able to smell diesel on my hands, I do miss that!! Have you ever removed red paint from your hands with thinner?? Raise your hand if guilty. Rick

Back in October I picked up a nice 857. Didn't know if it ran or not because the carburetor was missing, but the overall condition of the tractor was good. So, I brought it home and put a rebuilt carburetor on it. It started and ran great with the exception that it was a heavy smoker. I haven't decided whether to leave the metal as-is, or do a complete repaint, but I knew that something had to be done about the engine. So two weeks ago, after the single-digit weather warmed up and the snow melted, I removed the engine and began my engine rebuild. First observation after removing the head revealed a lot of carbon, and some oil sitting on top of the piston. The cylinder did not look bad, so I measured it with my new bore gauge. The cylinder was still within the acceptable tolerances of a STD bore, There were no scratches or ridges, so the decision to just hone it made sense to me. So, I just received my new Ball Flex-Hone yesterday, and that will be the next step. My local, very reputable but expensive machine shop charged me $125.00 to hone the cylinder, lap the valves, and polish the crankpin last year on my K161, so I decided that $35.00 for a Flex-Hone was a good deal. The crankshaft didn't look bad, so after removing it, I measured the crankpin. 1.185" and no out of round. Since 1.185 is the maximum wear limit, I decided to Plastigage the crankpin to connecting rod clearance. I got a measurement of .003. Since the maximum wear limit is .0025, I pulled out a brand new Kohler connecting rod that I had purchased earlier and Plastigaged the clearance with that. I got a measurement of .0175. So based on that, I am installing a new rod on the old crankshaft. Since I am not sure of the source of oil burning, I measured the valve guides. Tolerances were also within specs. The intake and exhaust valves were not bad, just dirty, but the intake valve had about .001" wear on the stem. So I have decided to install a new set of Kohler valves. I lapped them in, and they are now ready to install. The piston also looks real good. It measured within acceptable specs, and also is not scratched or scored. A new set of Kohler rings should solve the oil burning problem. Okay, that it for now. As progress is made, I will update.

Looking forward to meeting you there too Chas.

Sing? Heck, I have 2 of his records!

congrats on your new purchase , looks a real nice suburban looking forward to some pics .

I tried the Torrington number at Napa and they couldn't find one but that doesn't mean that they aren't available. The dealer had it in stock... Dean

If it were the UK, an original would sell for around $2000 as they are ultra rare here & a 401 suburban sold on Ebay for $2000 last year .

Wow guys, I was just going to be happy to have working indicator lights! You really take it to the next level.

I just ordered a 1532 from my Toro dealer. Napa tried to find it using all of the cross reference numbers and couldn't so I had no choice but it was still available, just pricey.

good to see you continue to make progress and keep a positive attitude

Wow !! That is tragic. It brings some memories of my childhood when I was 9 years old we lived on a dairy farm. We had an old farmall tractor and the clutch was so stiff that i couldn't push it in. My step father would get on the tractor with me and get it running in low gear then jump off and leave it to me to operate the tractor. The only way i could stop the tractor was to turn off the ignition switch. It didn't scare me back then but when i think about it now it gives me chills, especially when i think about all the times i was pulling a large disc getting a field ready to plant.

So if they sell for up to a grand they go for up to a grand. Just someone else bought it!

I agree with ya Vin, I wouldn't buy one for a grand (or more) but I'd sell one at that price, and I have. I did sell a very nicely restored RJ awhile back for 1200.00 The body work and paint were perfect with quality paints having been used. I rebuilt the entire diff. all new tires, NOS shower head muffler, perfect belt guard and heat shield. I put an NOS K91 on it that I had "In Stock." I think it was a fair deal for both of us but in all honesty, I wish I kept that one. I personally think each tractor is case sensitive as far as value goes. What one guy may consider a restored tractor another guy may consider it nothing more than a spray bomb special.

If you flip that bearing separator up the other way you will have the flat surface of it pressing on the bottom of the wheel. The way you have it now the separator is pulling on the plastic at the edges of the wheel hub.

Get the steering shaft in a vise, then turn the wheel.

This will help out http://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Dermal-Therapy-Heel-Care/dp/B001G8Y8XU use the HEEL CREAM version of the product line as it has the highest Urea content. Urea will penetrate under the skin and retain mositure. Continued use of the product will also dissolve any dried or calus skin and prevent you from using sandpaper. This is a high price point product made by Bayer. I worked for the diagnostics division of Bayer which designed and supported professional diabetes hospital instrumentation, I can say this product was highly recommeded.. The key is to start by using the higher Urea content HEEL CREAM until your fingers soften and calus skin is removed. At this point, start to use the lower Urea % products (less costly) from this same line to maintain your skin during this coarse weather. p.s. this stuff is so good it is used as therapy for folks with dry fingernials - it will even penetrate into and soften fingernails - over time.

I'm officially DONE with paint now. This was my last batch. :D

I found an old emergency kit at the flea market. Works well although somewhat small.

Was a good deal, I see $60+ in parts

That 5th hole should be for the lift cable tube to lift your tiller, hitch,etc.

The new lights looks great... but don't assume they'll make you safer out at the end of your driveway.

Let's see. Glenn

DANG!

Money well spent!

Right now I am at this point, what do you think? I also uploaded this video on YouTube so you can see what sound does: http://youtu.be/vmwBnZqtV6s

When I first read the title it reminded me of an accident that happened at a neighboring county fair. A man was driving his case 110 steam tractor into the fair grounds in preparation for the fair when it exploded. It killed 5 people and sprayed boiling water and steel shrapnel up to 100 yard away.

Been offline for a few days, will get some pics when i get time to go in the barn in daylight!!! James

No Problem Steve. I always find it helpful to follow the threads with pictures so I will keep updating them as I get more into this repair. I'm working on parts for now.

Hello Ray, Further to my PM (personal mssge), here's some assistance for posting pics direct from your PC. Ordinary membership has a limit of 1mb per image (8mb total). Supporter's are Unrestricted and can send images in PMs .......no pressure there then!. I've put it here so you can refer (scroll down to it) to it while practicing to add a pic on this thread. Hope this helps- If you scroll down to the bottom of this post to 'Reply to this Topic'. Start your Reply (or Thread), then left CLICK on the 'More Reply Options' button in the bottom right hand corner (next to the red 'Post' button). This will give you a 'Preview' and below at the bottom left hand corner, you will find 'Attach Files'.....click on 'Browse' to search your pics on your computer. When you find/selected/highlighted (with a left click) the one you want to post, click on the 'Open' button and the link will appear in the Box next to 'Browse'. Click on 'Attach This File' and your pic will (should) link to your post in a Bar at the bottom. Place your Cursor in your typed Post where you want the Pic and then in the picture bar Click on 'ADD TO POST '. The link code will then appear in your post. Click Preview to see the picture/layout of your Post where you hadplaced your curser. Your pic size limit is also shown in the 'Attach' area at the bottom I believe. Edit -Bye the way, if you haven't found it yet, the Illustrated Parts List for your C-160 is in the Manuals section. Any probs, let us know. Regards.

A beautiful machine Eldon. I 'hijacked' the picture and saved it in my Wheel Horse file.

@Ken- I just saw the walk behind two wheeler for the first time today. Very cool for sure. If you need a set of chains for it, let me know. I have a few laying around. Here is my snow clearing crew. The first is my 1989 520H with 48 inch blade. The other is my 1992 520H with 38 inch berco blower and snow cab. They are talking 6-10 inches in the next 24-36 hours so.... ready to roll !!

I picked this little True-Trac walk behind tractor up from my brother Dave via one of our trades, he is also known as JimmyZ. He picked it up from my brother Jim thru one of their trades. I must say, I didn't think I'd have much use for this little walk behind. That is until I tried it, it is fun to use! It has more power than you would think it would. It has a little Clinton engine for power and it has a nice posi that unlocks when you turn it around. It has some real nice heavy cast iron wheel weights on the inside of the tires. I have a lot of walk ways that I clear at work. I have a real nice Ariens snow thrower and Ariens snow blower to use at work. Trouble is, when I salt the walk ways before I leave for the day at 3:30 (so the employess don't fall, law suits etc.) I often come in the next day and have a nice accumulation of fairly heavy mushy snow (thanks to the ice melter) that plugs up both of the Ariens machines. I then wind up having to manually shovel, which sucks, and at 45 I ain't gettin any younger. I'm going to take this walk behind to work and see if it helps with that problem. I was considering bringing one of my Wheel Horse's to work to help with that issue but in all honesty I think this walk behind will be easier to use...We shall see!

Yep, I have a feeling that rmaynard is on to something. If I were to wage an educated guess, these are the original tires that rolled off the showroom floor (tractor is a '92 312-8). The treads are pretty worn down and the sidewalls do not look 'fresh' by any means. I am wondering if when the wheels rotated around when the tires were basically flat, if that didn't cause any cracks in the sidewall to enlarge to the point where the tires are basically holding air for a few days at most. I think you have all convinced me not to slime. Here is my dilemma at the moment. It is winter in Vermont. I don't have a garage. Working with ungloved hands for long (I know wahhh), becomes unpleasant quick. I have also never broken a tire down before. I've taken the tire off without any problem, but breaking beads, putting in tubes, reseating beads. That I've never done. Would I like to learn to do it? Heck yes.

Why on earth would you guys suggest remedies that don't include finding the cause of the problem? Yep tube it.... and if it's a small nail or screw that got picked up, it'll puncture that too. Find the cause. Could be a nail, thorn or sharp stick, could be weather cracks, could be a loose valve stem... could just be a leaking bead that all you need to do is re-seat. Why buy a solution to a problem you don't understand?

Everything readers have said here about slime is true. However, no one has yet suggested to find the root cause of the leak. Is it possible that the the tire valves are the problem? Spray some soapy water on the valve (after the tire has been reinflated of course) and look for bubbles. Better yet, immerse the tire in a tub or wheel barrow and again look for bubbles. Yes, you do have to break the bead to replace a valve, but it is cheaper than a tube and IMO easier to get it inside. If slime works, great, I have done it myself, but there is a drawback as so many have pointed out.