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As life has been a bit quiet in the shack for the past month, I thought I'd better make a little-ish update vid on what has been happening.. I might of added the odd RedSquare plug as well

I haven't used my blower the last 2 years (not enough snow at one time), but I used it a lot 3 years ago. My driveway is gravel. I set it high, I lower the blower onto a 2x4 (laying on its side) at each end of the scraper blade and then lower the skids till they touch the ground at that height. It doesn't throw rocks unless I inadvertently drive it into one of the banks where I have pushed the snow while plowing. I also ran over a "Yellow Pages" once, it went through the blower just fine - didn't break anything and the display was quite impressive!

GOT ANY THREES????? GO... :ROTF:

a coulter wheel runs in front of a mold board plow and cuts the sod on one side.

Ah yes, the secret locking collar. This thread brings back some bad memories of my first encounter with it. It was November 23, 2006 (did I mention really bad memories). I was just starting to tear down a 44" blower that I had purchased for a total rebuild. I got to the jack shaft with two of these bearings on it, and I couldn't get them to budge on the shaft. Flanged bearings were nothing new to me, we used many hundreds a year building machinery at work. We always made sure that the set screws landed on flats on the shaft to prevent damage to the OD of the shaft itself, which allowed for easy removal of the bearing when needed. I had removed the set screw, but it would not budge. I could see the partially drilled empty hole, but just figured that for some applications they must add a second set screw, and a pilot hole was pre-drilled. Plenty of rust on the shaft, so I figure that it is stuck on the rust. Add liquid wrench, nothing. Put some heat on it, nothing. Last resort, hit it with a hammer, nothing. Solution, cut the jack shaft. It was not until I ordered the new bearings that I realized that these are "special" bearings, as I could now see the eccentric. Where did Wheel Horse find these things? Some engineer reached down deep to come up with these. He must have had a catalog of parts used to build the vault at Fort Knox and picked the bearing used on the vault door hinge. I bet he got employee of the month for this one. I have attached a picture of the shaft before it met Mr. Hacksaw. As simple as these tractors are, I always enjoy the thought and engineering that went into the design, and little details like this that make them fun (and lighten my wallet). It provided maximum frustration at the time, but I learned about a bearing configuration that I would probably never see anywhere else in my lifetime. A reminder to Scotsman, when you reassemble the bearing to the shaft, don't forget to use a punch and rotate the eccentric to tighten it onto the shaft before tightening the set screw. I always like to use some Loctite 222 or equivalent on the set screw. Squonk, great reply to post, you really brought back some memories for me this morning, most of which I had repressed until this moment. Thanks!!

did you adjust the low and high speed needles as per the manual? you should only need the choke to richen the mixture just enough to start. of course if the ambient temp is cold out then it will need choke for a little longer until it will run without. you shouldn't have to use the choke at all to keep it running for any length of time though. if that is the case, its a sign of not rich enough mixture, either from a incorrect adjustment or blockage in the carb.

Congrats Jim. Now you have joined the ranks of those who say " I don't know how I ever had time to work". I used to say yeah you are just saying that because you are bored. Ha Ha was I wrong. Marvin

I have sold people the parts to do the swaps like this, the last 2 times I sold them a rolling chassis, so they had every part, nut and clip and knew where the hoses are routed ect..... then when they where done I get all unused parts in return including the bad trans, so far they all have been happy that way, last guy said he would have been lost if I handed him a pile of parts, this way it was laied out in front of him.

Those nice Lug-Ag Chains that Lars has are available from Jacks Small Engines: really the only chains that work with Lugs, for the very best traction (with weight). http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/Universal/Tire-Chains/ATV-V-Bar-Diamond-Tire-Chains

Always use both Work great together :)

does this help?

I had about 800' of railroad stone driveway up north. I just used the lift to hold the blower up a bit. It hurt traction some but I had quite a bit of weight on the back. It's always a good idea to keep the chute pointed away from stuff but it's imperative when blowing on a stone driveway. A stone can travel much further than the blowing snow and a patio door is no match for one. Please don't ask me how I know. I think the wife has forgotten about that night.

Yes, I think it was 4th quarter and duke was looking good when I fell asleep. I should have checked this morning. That has to be one great come back. I think the stats are correct now. Thanks Jim and Bob for letting me know. Way to start the New Year Steve...if I have to type everything twice...it is going to be a long 2014. BTW...figure Brrly1 for at least 1 big loss today.

I must have had too many brewskis last night. I thought I saw A&M beat Duke 52-48. What a game! I'm betting you looked at ESPN. That threw me too.

Congratulation's! to you, Ill keep payin in for awhile longer so you can enjoy it! ~Duke

Last fall I went out to start my 520H. It took more cranking over than usual before she fired up. Nearly jumped out of my seat. Sounded like a machine gun firing. It was parked next to my popup camper and the squirrels around here had packed my muffler with what I counted 2 dozen acorns.

The handle will not remove very easy from the 414 unless your lucky, or I should say VERY lucky, so with that said, try to remove the grip off the handle and put lots of Penetrating oil down the tube, even if the grip does not come off you still can get the oil in, other thing to look for is the lift handle bent ?? the tube/handle should be straight top to bottom if bent, the rod inside will bind up.

This year, because I sold my Wheel Horse Blade, I went back to what I had first-a Jacobsen blade modified to fit the C-125A. Everything works, although its kind of Rube Goldberg in places. I do have a blower, but I can't get down to put it on-Thanks for looking-Al HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Congrats Jim. I turned 71 this month but I keep putting off my retirement for a couple of reasons. One is a 17 year old daughter/granddaughter who graduates this year and is college bound and two is that I like my job. Best of all I like the feeling that I could retire today if I wanted to. In fact I mention that to the big boss daily. If someone at work asks me when I'm going to retire, I say as soon as one of the a**holes p*ss me off. They've come close a couple of times.

I dont have an on-line link but if your willing to plunk down $57 (well worth it in my opinion) you should pick up a copy of "Straight from the Horses Mouth. The Wheel Horse Story, Final edition" By Michael Martino. You'll learn all about the history of this great line of tractors. Actually production numbers are only known for a few of the low production specialty models so you wont be able to find much of that info anywhere. Mike...........

Where to begin, and how to put this, without coming across like a "scrooge"/ especially since it is just slightly over a day away from Christmas. We celebrate because we are free. But each morning I get up to watch the news, I am gently reminded, so many "Americans" have lost or never had a respect for our freedom.... To all my brother's and sister's in arms..... I hope one day our Nation respects you for all you have done..... Freedoms Cry If by chance, you should see me cry It’s not for those who fought and died It’s for the one’s, that don’t understand Freedoms price in this great land It’s for those with outstretched hands Greedy hearts from a foreign land It’s for the ones with a black hole to fill Unknown to them it’s an empty thrill It’s for those who never give Never feeling the power of how to live It’s for those who have bickered and complained But never tried to make a change It’s for the one’s that cannot see How shallow they are, “not even a please†It’s for all of these and so many more That mock what our “forces†try to implore The freedom we have is bought with a price Blood, sweat, and tears when “forces†unite So the tears I cry, may one day be dry In hopes of a Nation that understands WHY?

HELP Yesterday I was plowing the garden, all was going well, when all of the sudden the transmission started to slip. When you move the lever to engage tranny the tractor may move a little bit, both in forward and reverse or not move at all. Checked fluid ok, check belt ok, checked pulley on tranny ok.. Need some expert advice. I bought this rebuilt pump about 7 or 8 years ago and has worked flawlessly. Appreciate any help. Thanks

'85/'86 models had a Kohler K341 engine '87/'88 models had an M16 Magnum '89-'97 models had Onan P216 engines I see an '87/'88 up there, but no way of knowing which.

like was mentioned above, when the clutch is pushed in the belt needs to come out of the engine pulley slightly so its not being turned by the pulley anymore. with the belt guard installed and guide tabs working, all movement from the belt should cease when the clutch is pushed down, in turn stopping the pulley on the trans from moving...... that is the key to being able to select a gear, all movement inside the trans needs to stop. if the belt doesn't stop moving, the trans hasn't stopped either......

Well the snow thrower is back in operation and working perfectly. I have to say I wish I would have made the switch from the 2 stage sooner. I was able to retain the original jackshaft as the new pulley with a new key had to been driven on and was a very snug fit. The drive sprocket was in good shape and with the new bearings everything ran smoothly. I used Loctite for all of the set screws and worked the thrower for about twenty minutes then checked everything over. I finished my driveway which included widening plow harden banks and taking out about 5 inches of freshly fallen snow. This tractor and snow thrower are a great combination. Thanks all for the advice.

Those are some serious chains there Lars... share the source buddy?

I'm glad you FINALLY posted pictures! Gees, its like you have been busy or something.... I went over to Van's place a last week and saw his WH collection, including this tractor. I had a great time talking with him and his son. I expect this tractor to clean up very nicely! Some mothers mag wheel polish on the hub caps, simple green, and some elbow grease will have this one looking nice! Here is what the ad picture looked like, and it goes to show that sometimes bad pictures can work out in your favor. The tractor is MUCH nicer than this picture shows. I couldn't believe how quite it was!

Yeah, that's Jake's girl. She's a beauty!

Hey January, isn't that Jake's girl?

GOT ANY THREES?????

I've noticed with the B60 and B80 that I usually have to pull the handle up a bit when it's in the up or locked position to relieve the binding of the rod and tube when the weight is pulling down on the handle. The rod inside gets pinched, for lack of a better description, against the tube. I pull it towards me just enough to free up the button, then it releases. This is more of a problem with the plow than the deck because the weight is out in front of the tractor, not directly below it.

The term moldboard, or mouldboard as it was originally spelled dates back as far as the 1700's, and maybe earlier. The moldboard, or the wooden part of a plow of that era, is the part that lifts up and turns over the sod cut by the iron share and coulter. It would be #2 in Steve K's diagram in post 5. The share is the steel part just below it that digs into the ground, and of course the coulter wheel, (#8) that cuts the sod ahead of the share.

Nope, but this don't mean we will be holding hands or anything! These football picks have been just like MICHIGANS SEASON! IN THE CHITTER!

Original Cab framework shown here for reference.

Enjoy it! You deserve it! Next time to NY, your tagging along! Hint, hint. Maybe a college game or two. Congrats Jim!

Happy new year!!

Wishing my entire family... health, wealth, and success in the coming new year.

or Build you an 8-speed 8-pinion and use D-Series axles would be another way...4-speeds use a 3/4 input shaft and 6-8 speeds use a 5/8 input shaft so you will have to use an aftermarket pulley..or midify the Belt guard to go around the bigger diameter 8-speed pulley.

RESULTS AS OF MONDAY 12/30 WINNING TEAMS...NAVY, MISSISSIPPI, OREGON, TEXAS TECH. WEIGHING IN AT... 4 WINS AND 0 LOSSES.........BLUFFHUNTER, BK-SCOUTER 2 WINS AND 2 LOSSES.........STEVASAURUS, RACINBOB, JIMD 1 WIN AND 3 LOSSES...........SQUONK, DUKE, BRRLY1 TOTALS AFTER 13 BOWL GAMES 7 WINS AND 6 LOSSES.........STEVASAURUS, BLUFFHUNTER, JIMD, BK-SCOUTER 6 WINS AND 7 LOSSES.........RACINBOB 4 WINS AND 9 LOSSES.........SQUONK, DUKE, BRRLY1 4 GAMES TODAY...TUESDAY 12/31

My 520 with the Kwik-Way has rear ags filled with rim guard, and 88 pounds of steel weight attached to each rim. WIth that set-up, I can use the loader for almost everything, and don't have to use extra weight attached to the rear axle. The beast is long enough as is. The weight rack hanging off the rear end makes it very difficult to manuver in tight spaces. I can add weight as needed using Matt's 2" hitch and a weight box if I am working with something really heavy. The 520 with the blower and cab also has 88 pounds of steel weight on each rear, and 30 on each front. The front weight helps when turning with the 2-stage blower. TIres are turfmasters with 2-bar chains on the rear. I think tri-ribs on the front would help with steering, and will probably make the switch when these wear out. Next year, I get to add a 400 pound hard shell Cozy Cab. Nothing will stop me, Bwah Ha Ha Ha...!

If you don't have the proper tools and ability to use them (micrometers) take the engine to a reputable machine shop and have them measure the engine and make a recommendation for an overhaul plan including machine work and parts. they will probably not use OEM Kohler parts, but Kohler didn't make their own pistons and rings,, they bought them from a tier 1 supplier in bulk and had repair parts kits packaged in their logo packaging for the retail market.

I hear you I grew up a couple of towns northeast of you Saugus nobody had a lawn big enough to justify a riding lawn mower never mind a garden tractor my dad always had garden tractors to work around the yard and move snow he had the largest lot in the neighborhood 2/3 acres people thought he was crazy, and then appreciative after he cleaned their driveways his first was a 1960 suburban 400 with a plow and front reel mower he got used in 1968 (I was 6) it was my go cart for around the yard. I remember him hauling fill and I would have to sit on the hood so it did not flip over!!!! then he got a sears suburban 12 in about 74 then in the late 80's he got a 1975 C120 plow tractor early 90's a 1972 charger snow blower then around 2000 a 314-8 plow he had to go to assisted living in 2011, I know his neighbors missed him I sold the charger and the sears suburban still have the rest I would have kept them if I had the room, He would rather I got rid of them than store them outside

Your snow removal experiences sound like mine! First time blowing snow this season and the key on the Marin blower pulley sheared off. Off to Ace....man I love that place! Then last night the lift arm was not functioning. The hitch pin must have rotated around some or scraped it off the edge of one of the driveways. Well thank God I've been getting an extra when I replace something. Put a thicker washer above the hitch pin and was back in business!

416-8 FEL & Hoe

Spoiler Alert !! If you still believe in Santa Claus, you should stop reading now. Many have said that this is the model that "They should have made". It's built from what I consider the best features from several eras. I give you the 595-HD ... The chassis started out as a C-195: The 520 hood was just a LITTLE short to fit the chassis: The 20hp Onan had to be relocated to keep it centered under the hood louvers: The gear reduction steering had to be stretched a bit also: Stock width wheels? Not exactly... 52" Hi-Vac deck converted from a zero turn model: Size comparision vs a stock 520: It's got to be real... The book says so

Here's my 4x4 C-101

well I also have this little ditty my 701 with stainless frame I started with this and after 5 months Brian

Hey everyone - I have a Mastercool infrared temp gun that i use when doing A/C work and I decided to use it on my 520 after mowing 2 acres with the 48" deck & vacuum bagger. The fins on the rear cylinder read approximately 9 degrees cooler than the front cylinder. This sort of debunks the theory that the oil filter causes additional heat on the rear cylinder. This even debunks the theory that a vented belt guard is needed. So..... why does the rear valve seat go bad on so many of these models??? My theory is that many 520 owners rarely clean out the fins on these tractors (even a simple hose down after mowing) and somehow the grass/dirt/grime collects more on the rear cylinders than the front. IF the rear cylinder is cooler because more air is running past it than the front, this will explain why more grass/dirt/grime collects there rather than the front cylinder.