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I picked up this nice '67 Ranger with a blade from" Lane Ranger" today. It's a 107 that Lane converted to electric start. He even met me half way to make the exchange, thank you Lane. I'm gonna fix this up for my Grandson. I also got this reel mower from Lane, Grandpa's gonna keep this.

I had most of my c195 complete last winter, then spring came. 140 rounds of golf later, it's cold outside and it was time to finish it .this tractor was the worst rust bucket I have ever worked on. refracman helped me with a few parts. also, learning the c175 has the exact same parts really helped. im just going to moth ball this tractor. I just cant see dropping three hundred bucks on rear tires that are not going to be used. here is how she turned out.

I've had a good friend (Gary Seaton) who has been battling with cancer of the spine for awhile now. I got a call from his wife Friday (9 days ago), and she said he was back in the hospital, and wasn't expected to pull through, so we loaded up and headed to Edmond Oklahoma. Gary was one of those people you couldn't help but love. He was the kind of guy who would walk up, put his arm around you, and say something encouraging. He was a true follower of Christ, and behaved like one. With that said, I had a great time visiting with him in the hospital, and even though he was in pain, he always had a smile on his face, and was happy to see me. While I was there, he grabbed my hand, and told me he wanted me to have his Case 222 garden tractor. He said he had always intended to get it fixed up, but had never got around to it, so he asked me to fix it up, and take good care of it. That is exactly what I intend to do, and this will always be a very special machine to me. We left OK on Monday, and got a call on Thursday that he had passed away. Please keep the Seaton family in your prayers, as they have suffered a great lose. The old Case runs very well, and both the engine, and hydraulic drive work great. The Case trans is not a hydrostat, its a true hydraulic drive with a pump bolted directly to the engine, and a large hydraulic motor bolted to the rearend. It has both high, and low range, and unlike a hydrostat, it is completely silent. All you hear is the engine load, no whine from the trans at all. It has a hydraulic deck lift as well. The old Kohler K301 runs very well, with no smoke or strange noises. I guess I wouldn't call this a restoration thread, as money is rather tight right now, but at the very least, everything will be repaired that needs it, and it will get a good coat of paint, and new decals. This will be a very special tractor to me. Here are a few pics. Thanks Matt

I have to say..."I would rather be picking on Michigan, and not Iowa". That game yesterday with Northwestern...the ending was Painful. It has been that kind of season for the Wildcats. Piking on Iowa is fun...picking on Michigan is required.

Every year or I should say season change especially from fall to winter. We get a lot of post from new members and even some of us older members that just can not quite remember how a particular attachment attachés or works. Was thinking some of you out there that are video guru's might start a new section of "How to attach" videos. I know we post photos and that helps but a nice informative video would do wonders for new members that has just acquired a Wheel Horse and has no clue where to even begin. Anyway it's just a thought. I have no video equipment and have no idea what it takes to film and download on here. Maybe something that's not really feasible.

The price of front wheel weights was way too much for me. And when I got this tractor it came with theses square weights that I never found a place for - until today. I drilled one hole through the bottom of the hood and bolted the two weights through there. Two adjustable bolts through the frame holes hold up the rear of the weights when the hood is closed. Each piece measures 2 inch thick by 6 by 7 square and weighs 22.5 pounds. So I've got 45 pounds total extra over my front tires now. It doesn't interfere with anything - just fits in that unused space inside the bottom front of the hood.

Hey you guys keep it down up there, I'm trying to get some shut eye down here in the basement. -BK

Sad story...sorry for your loss. Gary picked the right friend to do his tractor justice. I always liked the syling of the Case machines. Mike............

A tractor buddy of mine sent me this shipping info . UShip: Door to door...using private carriers. Can be super cheap, or kinda pricey. Takes patience to list an ad (kinda like reverse ebay), and wait for lower and lower bids. Then you have to work with the carrier and person shipping or taking delivery, to get things scheduled. It's a PITA, really, when compared to other methods, but if you get a cheap bid, it can save money. The good thing is, the carrier goes door to door, and nobody has to take an item to a terminal or ship point, and doesn't have to pick up there either. Doesn't have to be on a pallet, and you can build a big 'ol load, and even ask for them to make additional stops to grab more crap. I throw a lot of stuff on Uship, just to see if I can get a great deal...I throw things on there for tractors and attachments I'm interested in that are on CL, pretty much anywhere in the country. Several times, I've gotten cheap quotes and then lined up a deal with the seller. Had stuff come from the Atlantic coast, Washington state, Kansas, Virginia...even Indiana and Ohio. If the buy is a great deal, and the freight quote is cheaper than my gas to drive it, I book the shipment. Once you have a carrier's email and ph#, you can work directly with them, too, without paying Uship fees. Unishippers: Great rates for longer shipments or heavy/bulky items. They ship between truck terminals or docks. The service finds you a commercial carrier who will take the load for cheap, then you have to drop it off at their terminal, and the guy on the other end has to pick it up at his local terminal. Nice thing is, they have hilo's, etc to help out, but the bad thing is, you have to have stuff on pallets, and you have to go to the terminals. In Grand rapids it is very easy, but if someone is out in the sticks, it could be a pain. I recently sent 2 pallets stacked with attachments, from Grand rapids, MI to Minnesota, and the guy paid $190 in freight and it was delivered to the dock where he worked. It was probably 1000lbs worth of stuff. Fastenal: My new favorite. Ships store-to-store, and costs are cheap. I have a pallet with mower deck and weedcutter coming from Massachusetts to Michigan this week for $120. Again, you have to take your stuff to a Fastenal store, and it has to be picked up at a Fastenal store, BUT...they usually have a dock and/or HiLo to help, and there are Fastenal's literally everywhere. there are 3 I can get to in under 20 minutes. They prefer stuff on pallets (I kinda like it that way, anyway), but will ship small items you can carry, or rolling items (like a tractor) without a pallet. UPS: Anything I can carry, I ship UPS. Grader blades and moldboards ship just about anywhere for around $40. 42" Dozers blades...$40-50. It's a PITA to break them down, build a box around something, and pack it, but it ships very fast and relatively cheap with tracking #'s. If I have 2 or more items going to the same place, I grab a crap pallet from work and ship it through Fastenal instead. But for a single item, UPS is easy and they pick up at your front porch.

Let me tell a little story... so I had made plans today to drive from harrisburg Pa, to new jersey to pick up an rj35. Then stop on the way home and pick up a suburban parts tractor. Simple enough right? Not the story... I was planning to leave around 9am and get there around 1130am. I didnt leave till 11am and didnt get there till almost 2pm. While picking up the rj the guy showed me a big box of wheelhorse parts and said he wanted to get them out of his garage ($40 was what he wanted for the parts). So I paid him the $40. It was for all the parts on the table in the pictures below (suburban parts including, 4front rims, a frame and hood). So I leave and am heading back towards harrisburg and end up running out of gas on the Pa turnpike with a dead cell phone. I ended up leaving my dog in the truck along the turnpike and walked through a creek and to this house in the middle of the woods. The guy was more than happy to give me a gallon of gas and a gas can (free of charge!!!). That was more than enough to get me 2 miles down the road to a rest station to fuel up. The rest of the trip home was simple. But in the end it was worth it.. I got an rj35, a suburban 400 (for parts), and a bunch of spare parts. Can anyone tell me what the sets of rims go to? They are 8inch but are different widths (see picture). Could one set be the correct ones for the rj35? Thanks ralph

There could be couple of things to consider. First, on some RD decks (mine is a late 1970's 36 inch RD), there was a separate chute that bolded to the main deck. However, by the time the 1990's rolled around, I recall that was eliminated. I suggest you go to Partstree.com and check to see if your deck had this metal chute. The other thing to consider is that way back when, there was a rubber flap that bolted to the back fo the decks to keep the clippings from being sucked back up and being deposited on the transaxle. Some enterprising owners have bought a 4 ft piece of rubber baseboard at Home Depot and bolted it in place.

I called this my junk room. just had a room and didn't ever use it. so I filled it with junk

engine is quiet, no smoke. Does have an axle seal leaking, though.

yes it adds weight, but the hood will not like that for very long, and it adds the weight over the axle, putting more strain on the axle pivot, spindles and wheel bearings, not to mention the poor hood hinges.

I took the Cyl head gasket and used my ole trick of painting the Cyl head gasket with Metallic Paint. I reassembled the head and air filter then decided to clean up the tractor a bit. I guess MJ thinks my tractors SEXY but then she said its hers And she took over, and rooted the Ole Duke out the way! WTF hmmm I told her she will have no problem getting the tractor running on her own so this whole thing is up in the air! Ive heard of happy wife happy life, but this chit is ridiculous !

Gary is free of pain and with our Lord. We pray for the Seaton family and for you in the loss of a dear friend. Every time you ride the Case Gary will be riding with you. Thank you for sharing this with your family. May God bless you.

If you need to see one hooked up I'm right off Miltown and have a plow on my 414.

Hoods in the cookpot now.

This thing followed me home today on the trailer.

Oil is correct. Remove the plate where a stick shift would normally go. There is a large nut on the linkage you tighten to increase the tension on the speed control

The five square holes on the back of the RD deck are for a deflector. Wheel Horse had offered a metal deflector to help keep the grass clippings from blowing up into the tractor chassis (but it made it hard to slide the deck under the tractor). I put a rubber deflector in place of the original one:

I have not charged anybody anything...yet.

I like your attitude Mike... If you find something this way...I can bring it to the next show for you and save you some money.

I have a 417A with a custom V blade that is my favorite worker. And a video of it in operation

For some reason I can't get my picture to upload. Anyway, I spoke to the guy I bought it from (who is a Red Square member) and he has pointed me in the right direction. I was thinking the blade frame hooked into the same lift pin as the mower deck but that's not case apparently. I will bolt it to the hole in the lift mechanism closer to the transmission with a metal strip I have. BTW, the tractor is a 1980 C-145 and the only numbered tag I could find in the deck frame says 42BC01 and below that, 9323. There are some other numbers but I can't make them out in the dark.

Here's a Red Square member that sells those Headlight screws, and Wheel Horse footrests, WH wiring, etc: http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/advanced_search_result.html?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=headlight+screws http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/advanced_search_result.html?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=Wheel+Horse

Should work ok for adding front traction, but is the sheetmetal rugged enough for the added weight? Mike.........

R.I.P. Gary.

here is a pic while I was doing teardown

Thanks for all the great advice and help will try and get this puppy installed this week ..... well ahead of the first snow..... also have to make a set a chains for the rear wheels.

The frame, for the blade, attaches into the bracket mounted to your trans axle...and at your lift link. You will have to re-pin your front attach-o-matic, after dropping the mower deck, so the handle does not interfere when lifting the blade...and you need to take your mule drive off the front of your horse so you can swivel the blade. That should be all you have to do. I almost forgot...and then wait for snow. Enjoy the blade...it is my favorite attachment.

I finally got some more pictures! whatcha think?

I bought the same tractor brand new in 1984. Mowed commercially for 8 years, tilled gardens,plowed snow and did tons of other stuff. I still have it now and grade my dirt road with a 50" mid mount grader blade. It may not be red but it is a Wheel Horse through and through!! I am going to try to attach a picture of the original receipt that I still have. I know I paid over $ 4000 but you get what you pay for. ( at least you used to! )

There are square holes stamped in the deck for what I assume is some sort of deflector. Does anyone have pictures of what is supposed to be there or what you've fabricated up? I'd like to see what you've come up...

Hi Lars, yep it's not good to see but I look at it as an opportunity to develop the ol girl a bit more.. There's always going to be these sort of problems with a "one of" machine. I'm with you Matt, a temporary fix may be the way to go in the short term.. I just want to drive the ol girl As I need to sort this problem fully at some point it makes sense to wait a few months until winter is out the way and then do the "no outrigger" conversion which will sort the problem once and for all.. Might take a while to do though.. I think I can use the current axles with the conversion, after they have been modified quite a bit, making them shorter and a lot stronger....

Q: What should you do if you find three University Of Iowa football fans buried up to their neck in cement? A: Get more cement. I'm just sayin'...

Ship em all! Dont know how I'll pay ya but lets not sweat the small details! Mike..........

Steve, Ill have to talk to Charlie. I read that these were used for go karts, etc. Kinda leery of using a two stroke in this application.

I have been waiting almost 2 years to finally install this dealer sign the I got from a friend and member here (Riley08). This started as a double sided, 4x6 ft sign but it would have been much to big and by cutting it down I can use the opposite side elsewhere. I mounted it on the old barn beam and used the brackets that it was hung with to support the barn beam. This weekend we are going to get everything wired up and hopefully figure out a way to get this sign to light up....

I find this to be funny... 1) there must be a "story"... and 2) the "story" has some facet that's voodoo in nature... Its a frigg'n tractor... not some military secret uncovered by the Soviets

I was on Ebay looking for parts for my 606 when I sent a message to Glen Pettit (I think he was called "Glenjeri" at that time) asking about where to find more info on wheel horse. He told me about the Red Square wheel horse forum and I joined a little while later. Thanks Glen!!!

With a Wheel Horse push plow, you need the axle bracket. The axle bracket mounts to the rear axle and the back end of the plow attaches to this bracket.

I have an ear for corny jokes!

Friggin awesome!!

I really like working this d200 backhoe!!

With the mild temps the last couple of days i got my e-tank out and soaked my rear wheels, just need to blast them & get some paint on 'em. I've got four front wheels ready to paint, two for the new 4.80x8 tires i ordered and two for the old 5.50x8 tires. I'm still undecided on which ones i'll use. I replaced the bearing in the drive belt idler pulley, after seeing Brian (buckrancher) do this on his "854" I thought it was a good idea. Thanks Brian for the idea and the bearing number. I found replacement rivets at Mcmaster Carr, they're sold by the pound. That's a lot of rivets. I just ground off the end of an old drift punch & used that to flatten the rivets. I don't know how some of you guys get so much done so fast, i always seem to move at a snails pace.

Good thread topic Kelly. I can't even remember the paticulars of what led me to this place. Been around awhile, learned a whole lot & still do! I think I would have gave up on this hobby if I hadn't found RS, met new friends & renewed my interest in the "Horses".