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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/22/2013 in Posts
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5 pointsWell time has not been on my side here lately but I was lucky enough to sneak away for a little bit tonight. My wife doesn't want a tractor but since everyone else in the family has their own I thought it would be fitting. She picked out her favorite color so she can have a custom Lawn Ranger like our daughter. I am sure this will be another rewarding build!
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5 pointshere is a photo of the model t, even has a pickup back that can be changed out. there are 4 oil lamps that might look good on an rj. i thought you were refering to the tri-plex when i mentioned the weight.
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4 points, Made a new weight bracket for the front of the 417-8 to attach to the attach-a-matic bracket to see if I could keep the front end on the ground plowing the garden this year. Happy to say it worked great. Had to give it a bath so I thought I'd take some pics & see if I could still remember how to post them. Had some trouble but Tyson refreshed my memory. Thanks Tyson
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3 pointsWell, thanks to a couple of RS members hear who were watching out for me (Wheel-N-It), and (whc160) I'll be heading out Thursday to pick up a C-160 8 speed with attachments! Now hear is the part where some of you guys will start booooooing. It was factory equipped with an OH160 16hp Tecumseh. I've been wanting a C-160 for a very long time, and I thought all of them were equipped with the K341 Thumper, but I was mistaken. It figures, that the only C-160 for sale in Texas would have a Tecky! I'm still very happy, especially with all the attachments, mowing deck, WH tiller, WH dump cart, and harrow, which I don't believe to be original. I'm excited! Matt
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3 pointsPaint the wheels green and have JD in reverse! Take it to a JD show and watch everyone freak out!
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3 points
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2 pointsThis Speedex FG was added to my collection today its from the Pond Bros days
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2 pointsTECKY POWER!!!!! 1972 TORO SNO-PUP 2 cycle Tecky!! Ya know you want one Craig!!
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2 pointsBob, I use a slide hammer. I also have a 1/2" carriage bolt @ 6" long that I have ground part of the head off so it will fit under the bearing and I use that to pry the bearing up a little if I can't get the slide hammer jaws under it. I got that idea from Steve. Works well for me.
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2 pointsvan, im liking the 416 even with all its little quirks. all the safety switches and electrical are driving me nuts. nothing that a good wiring makeover wont take care of though. i guess i cant get away from onans either, been messing with a few engines the last 6-8 months and while i appreciate all the engineering built into them, i like the simplicity of the kohlers and especially the cheaper parts. always liked the looks of these tractors, but weren't coming across any when it was buying time and then just recently this one came up. i think this one will be a keeper, its going to get a few mods and some work done on it, but first i need to sort out all the adjustment and electrical issues. still undecided if it will get a teardown and shine up though. pulled the deck after finally prying my wife off it and hooked up one of the blades i have. all ready to push a bit of snow now....... got a set of chains with it as well so if needed i will put them on too.....
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2 pointswow matt, congrats, finally got yourself a 160. looks like it will clean up ok and also looks to be in nice condition under all that barn frosting....... of course we are going to need a full dedicated thread once you get it and start cleaning it up. looks like keeping it original is the way to go....... is it going to be a restore or keep it how it is?
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2 pointsThere is really nothing wrong with Tecumseh's...excellent engines. It is the carbs that can be a little touchy at times,
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2 pointsCute as a bug! I'd like to have it with a vacuum attachment and sweeper attachment to clean the floors in my house
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2 pointsvideos from yesterday.......... early on...... the showdown ( if you think its between Kent and Jeanine, you would be wrong)...... oops......
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1 pointMost of the time when I am replacing bearings I am not concerned about removal damage. However, I am parting two B-80 4-speed transmissions that each have two excellent condition #1533 bearings. So my question is, how do you remove them without damaging them? With these bearings being declared NLA (no longer available), I figure it might be nice to have a couple on hand.
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1 pointGrowing up dad always had a 196x's Wheel Horse he'd use to drag things around the property. I always thought that thing was bada**. Now I have a place of my own and got sucked into a deal, sight unseen, on craigslist and I'm hoping I have made the right decision. I am paying $325 for 2 mowers. The seller said the one that runs is the one that fits the snow plow but I have no idea which one that would be either. Hopefully this will end up being a fun winter project to take up some recently cleaned space in the garage. Appreciate any advice or guesses on what years these are. All feedback appreciated. Glad to join the forum. Jay
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1 pointI know they are not as in demand. just could not pass up. has bad deck. but tractor has no other rust or paint chips came with full tank of gas and.new battery. runs like a champ. guy said would not drive. belt guide was loose and belt slipped off. guy tried to sell me a dynamark for 180 just cause he put a new carb on it also. i walked away from that. but this 8-25 is to to small for.me. im sure witj a.fresh.deck someone will need it for a.small.yard. hopefully a quick flip. pictures enclosed
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1 pointI don't know if you've seen this before but it's worth seeing again. It's amazing how many private collections there are tat are seen by only a chosen few. My local club, the South Jersey Gas Engine Club, has visited several of these "museums" over the past couple of years. Amazing. http://kithannecarclub.com/brown/brown2.html
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1 pointI bought a 656 and a ISO mount K241 recently because I wanted a BIG BLOCK short frame to mount my Danco Loader on. It is currently mounted on a Electro 12 but doesnt fit just right. After a chat with Kelly (BTW Thanks Kelly) I installed the correct short oil pan for a 1055 and cut the dipper so it would clear the pan. Then I thought Im gonna try to fit this engine on the frame and leave the large flywheel and new style starter. So I cut the bearing plate just enough to clear the frame and trimmed the tin just a tad and viola it fit. Now I need figure out what transmission im going to use either keep the 4 speed or put in an 8 speed or even a HYDRO. This tractor is dedicated to the Danco FEL only. I am going to need the pulleys to fit the 11/18 crank and which ever tranny I use. I will need the correct length clutch rod and possibly pulley too. Does anyone have any parts or other ideas regarding a transmission and the correct pulleys to make it work? Any ideas or help is appreciated. I am going to be away and unable to work on this project until spring but I will be able to try and collect the parts needed to finish it in the mean time.
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1 pointAnd I acquired all of this from my local Toro (used to be Wheel Horse) dealer this past spring; with the exception of the "Clevis hitch" which I didn't need for my tiller -- Don't know if all of these are available from Toro; some were new old stock that hadn't been sold by the dealer
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1 pointAssuming your plow is a sleeve hitch implement (and not a 3pt. hitch implement), then you will need the Wheel Horse Clevis hitch assembly. I think if you do a search of the forum you will find some pictures of a clevis hitch. You should probably check out the toro site too and search for clevis in the parts section - you will find a diagram of the parts needed. If you're lucky, you can pick up an entire assembly from ebay (thats how I got mine). You will also need to route a cable from the lift mechanism under the center of the tractor to the 'rock shaft' that is part of the clevis assembly. May sound difficult but its not - hardest part will be getting all the parts unless you can find a complete clevis package. If you have 3pt. implements then you are out of luck unless you build a custom 3pt. hitch. PS - nice tractor!
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1 pointI use a long brass rod around 3/8" and drive them out from the axle side have not hurt one yet or you can also try putting the case halves in the oven on tin foil bearings facing the rack and heat them to 250 degrees they may fall out on there own Brian
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1 pointMatt, I know what you mean. everytime i get another one, i imagine how it would look all redone. my latest one (416H) im still at that stage where one day i want to take the plunge again and the next i want to leave it alone. my c160 though, is the one i really like to get out once in a while and just drive it around. i really want to keep this one all original, rusty paint and all. theres a few things mechanically that really need to get taken care of, but i like it just the way it is. the metal is just rust pitted enough that i know it won't be looking right if i redo it in powder coat. i need to pick the ones which are better (easier) to get the metal smooth enough to paint direct to metal. just like your food, no fillers for the powdercoated ones anymore........
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1 pointI would send a PM to Mike (racinfool40)...he has been practicing for some time now. I know they make a tool for that...goes in and you expand the puller by tightening a nut, gripping under the bearing race and then tapping out. I had luck with an air hammer and a small spade bit...3 rat-tat-tat's and the bearing popped right out...could have been lucky.; I bought a lottery ticket that day.
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1 pointSorry Stevo, but the input and brake are both Toro #100441 (CR7410), 3/4" on the B-80 4-Speed, and the axles are 1".
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1 pointLooks like a great addition to your collection matt! Those solid state techies can be great runners...the smaller ones are the ones that most people have troubles with. I had a charger 10 that ran sweet...ended up selling it, but it always fired right up!
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1 pointHere are a few of the pics the seller sent me. I'm hoping the Tecky is in decent shape, as I would like to keep it original. Matt
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1 pointWell, if I get that call from DA BEARS, I can be ready to go against GB in a couple of weeks. I just hope they wear those same, terrible uniforms against DA BEARS that they wore last Sunday. They looked like a bunch of FAT Notre Dame players on the field. I still like Cleveland to be a playoff team this year. And Minnesota let the lowly Giants win a game...give me a break.
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1 pointI don't know if it was mentioned or not, but while you are waiting, get some new seals for the axles, input and brake shaft. You will also need a new gasket. Seals are available from NAPA or other auto parts stores, and the gasket is available from TORO. If you need any part numbers just holler.
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1 pointI like it, it would be sold to me if you were closer. I can cut my lawn with a pair of scissors...that would be cool to have.
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1 pointOk, I'll just use a little sealer in there and let it dry while I wait for the differential from Bob. I double checked the reverse idler gear, the bevel is indeed facing up. Thanks! -Dan
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1 pointAh yes pictures. Took several when I first got it home. Came with quite a few components I have yet to go through.
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1 pointJust thought you might be interested in what a non-abused, well maintained 38 year old Uni-Drive transmission should look like inside. This transmission has been sitting outside of my shop for at lease two years. When I got the B-80, I drained the oil and plugged the hole where the shifter goes. So what you will see in the next picture is exactly how I found the transmission when I opened it up last night. I honestly can say that I cannot find a single bit of metal or any evidence of water ever having gotten into this one. The previous owner must have taken meticulous care of his horse, and never rode it hard or put it away wet. Dan - this is where your differential came from.
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1 pointUh-oh. I believe I had the splined shaft in upside down. I just pulled it out along with the fork, and one of the balls popped out. I found it, but after watching your video so I know how to re-install the balls/spring, I have a problem. There appears to me some metal piece inside the little hole where you inserted the allen key to compress everything. What am I missing here? Thanks! -Dan
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1 point
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1 pointReally, other than the axles and pinions, everything looked great inside! Here's a couple shots after cleaning:
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1 pointMy son has been serching for a wheel horse and when he seen this in a scrap pile ready to be crushed he had to have it, so 50 bucks later and having to get a loader to remove it from the pile here it is back in a barn and soon to be a winter resto project. I know shes rough but everything is there and under the dirt grime and rust its not in to bad of shape.
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1 pointWhat's up? Well I guess you can say I'm going with these teams this week. The picks are Nebraska,it looks like Martinez is coming back, Michigan State, Ohio State and it doesn't matter on the Coulter thing with or without Coulter I'll take the Hawkeyes!!!! Psych, thought I was going to didn't you. Oh well As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!
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1 pointWell, after much pulling, hammering, and torching, I got the last hub off and the transmission opened up. Not pretty... I'll let the pictures speak for themselves here. Apparently in a desperate attempt, the previous owner decided to pump a bunch of what appears to be lithium grease into the transaxle... I'm not sure why. Surprisingly, other than the differential, everything looks fine. The diff, however, is another story. The gears on the inside ends of the axles are wiped out, and the pinion gears, well, here's what's left of them: Ugh. On a lighter note, I contacted Bob last night and he dug a VERY nice differential assembly out of a B80 that he's providing to me for a very reasonable price. So hopefully by next week some time I'll have this thing back together. I'm not in any huge hurry, and in the meanwhile I'll finish cleaning everything else off and checking all the bearings, etc. I looked into it for about two hours last night, though, and everything looks surprisingly good. We shall see! -Dan
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1 point
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1 pointYou could always just walk into a stove selling place up your way and ask the guys there. I'd be certain to think they'd sell you something on top of giving advice.
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1 pointWEEK # 9 OCTOBER 26TH 4 GAMES THIS WEEK AND SOME MUCH TOUGHER CHOICES . NEBRASKA AT MINNESOTA NORTHWESTERN AT IOWA MICHIGAN ST. AT ILLINOIS PENN ST. AT OHIO ST.
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1 pointIts on You tube but I cant figure out how to post the link, A little help?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqFk5UTdlu4&feature=youtu.be
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1 point
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1 pointWell I played for about another hour or so this morning. Pressure washer her and got all the moss and grease from sitting for 15 years. Heres some after pics... I gotta say, I am totally head over heels for this thing and I don't know why. If its because it sat for 15 years and I got it running in about 3 hours or if it was the price or what. I mean this thing was literally covered in vines and had to be pulled out from behind the barn. The sheetmetal is razor straight and there isn't even a dimple anywhere in this metal anywhere. It may be the racing stripes on the hood....or at least where there should be stripes. I have found the replacement Kohler is from 1987 so it can't have too many hours on it with it sitting for 15 years basically unused and only run to move it around every once in awhile. The guy told me it hadn't been started in at least 3 years.... I was going to part this thing out but now its got a home and it may be the one who gets restored this winter and the C-160 may wait. I have a funny feeling my son is going to love chugging around on this when he gets home from school tonight. All I gotta do now is find where I can get those stripes from. I didn't see them on Redoyourhorse anywhere. I have a funny feeling new decals are going to be ordered soon. The only problem I see is over-revving. This Walbro has no hi speed adjustment and after checking it out today with my spirometer its showing 4700 RPM. My C-160 is right at 3600 so I'm pretty sure it accurate. Believe it or not the fancy laser tach is so far off it isn't funny. I have no idea how to adjust that rpm down from 4700 to 3200 where it belongs. The tranny is the next thing to get attention. The engine oil was crystal clear like honey and the tranny fluid is blood red as it should be but the filter is red. I knowWheel Horse hasn't made a red filter in at least 20 years...maybe more. I doubt he was like my Dad and bought a case of filters and is still using red ones to change his...... I definitely want to get it drained and refilled with new ATF and a brandy new filter.
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1 point
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1 pointNope. no snow yet, but Im ready for a change. I did find use for the blower though. Instead of raking up and hauling apples I just fired up the blower and blew them over the fence. A little messy but did a fine job.
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1 pointIn summer 2009 at a family get together Jdog was telling me about Wheelhorse tractors and showed me this website. He also showed me a CL ad with a D180 in Steelton PA......well I scrounged some bucks together and brought this home....with a 48 inch deck (not shown)....I joined up on this site and one of my first posts was about the tractor going backwards when the lever was pushed forward......I got an answer and had it fixed the same day.....I've been active ever since...... Next I got a plow from Dave at Tractorworld.... The engine smoked very badly so I rebuilt the engine......got some rubber....a bit of paint......added a PTO shaft....got a 3 point..... Same tractor....same dog....now with a snow chucker......4 years later....still a diamond in the rough....but it is MINE!!!!
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1 point546Cowboy's comment is great! If some of the kids who want to be involved don't have aptitude in certain areas such as turning a wrench, maybe they are better at writing, or 'rithmetic ... sort of like the way a REAL business operates. Some of the workers solder resistors, some put the frammises together, some count beans... All God's children got a place in the choir, some sing low, some sing higher, and some just clap their hands!
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1 point1963 Model 603 - on shift decal in dash area of hood. 1960 Suburban 400 and 550 - between choke and throttle stamped into steel plate just below top mounting screw. (Also same on early 1961 Suburbans that used the cut off piece of dash plate)
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