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There are plenty of people who have done this out in the world wide web. This link will help you find some.-----> http://bit.ly/1d8OM1K Steve... I'll be waiting for a middle finger and look of disgust in Jacksonville!

The thing about the coffee can is that it will hold a 12oz Silver Bullet just as well as an aluminum pint, or if I'm real thirsty: a nice 40....

"Elvis"

Like the others said, quite often the mechanical pumps need a supply of fuel at the pump before they will work - they're not good at sucking air. I pull off the supply line at the pump and wait till gravity has pushed all the air out of the line before hooking it back up to the pump. Martins idea of pressurizing the tank is good, I usually do it just by putting my mouth over the filler and blowing. I'm surprised Martin doesn't do the same, Australians generally have very big mouths which are capable of pressurizing fuel tanks on semi tractors.

if the pump lever wont help, before pulling the pump apart, pressurize the tank and see if you can get some gas to flow up to the pump. use a plumbers plunger or similar. those pumps really need to be full of gas to work well. even a tired pump can sometimes pump enough to supply gas in all but the most demanding conditions if it is primed with no air in the system....... but even a new pump with all new lines etc. can be useless if there is air anywhere to stop a suction of gas from the tank.

I'm kinda bored and don't want to go out in the cold so I thought I would post a few pictures of my white wall tires. Wheel horse's were the main tractors that were used in the pits at the Indy 500, from the early 60's to the mid/late 80's to pull and push the race cars around, and I'm sure just to get around on, in 68 WH had Carlisle make white wall tires,( Carlise made most of the tires for WH in the mid 60's to the early 70's they are branded Wheel Horse) to be used at the track that year, only 33 sets are thought to have been made, one set for each tractor used at the race, the tractors Charger 9's also had special strips on the hood and cross flags very much like the 500 special tractors that were built to commemorate the race not used at the track, they also had front bumpers used to push the cars, very little info can be found so if you know anything about them please let me know, more pictures would be great I have 2 sets of them, as far as I know the only ones known to still exist, one set is missing a front tire like I'll ever find another both sets have had the rims painted red, that is not factory, the rims are linnen beige under the red. The first set came on a tractor in very ruff shape, it was cut up to mount a hit and miss engine on it, so I put them on the tractor in the picture (a 69 charger 10), I will restore the orig. tractor someday. The second set or part set I bought off a tractor on CL the tractor was also very very ruff and he wanted way more than I was going to pay so I gave him a set of usable tires on rims and some money for just the tires and wheels. Here is a few picture from the Wheel horse book page 96 of the 1968 tractors at Indy, one picture shows them lined up for the one lap of Indy that they raced the tractors around the track, I bet that took a while 2.5 miles at 8mph I hope you enjoy my little story and again any info would be great that you could add

I'm always envious of yall that live in the midwest and towards the east when it comes to used WH stuff, not of the winter weather, that's for sure. BUT when I see these WH's for sale or parts available, they are invariably way, way up north.... Are there any folks out there from down here? This is my daily driver: the coffee can is my drink holder - held on my an old speaker magnet, as well as my machete. The bucket is hanging of of my seat cover....

Goin' to love the 14hp Kohler Magnum! Great Horse 414-8! Post some pic's by all means!

Not quite sure what your asking?? The tractors after the race was over where sent to local dealerships and sold to be used, and yes the tractors can be found, I have one here and bought the tires off another one.

Someone picked up a pair of rear whitewalls out of the swaps at the Wheel Horse Show this past June...

What is the machete for? Just in case someone tries jackin it from ya?

Are you completely dissembling it? If so why not pull the hydro pump. Should push with zero effort.

you are not getting enough gas through the carb. 99% of the time the carb hasnt been cleaned well enough. ( there is cleaned and then there is properly cleaned)...... i suspect your high speed needle is blocked partially or more. make sure all the holes in the high speed needle are clear.... did you adjust the high and low speed needles correctly? 3 turns out from bottomed in is a good starting point ( more than what the manual says) for the high speed. since you are starving for gas try that first before touching anything else. high speed needle is the one that goes vertical into the carb from the top middle of the carb right next to and parallel with the throttle shaft. other possible causes are dirty fuel bowl, partially blocked needle and seat, weak fuel pump. there has been countless posts and threads on this subject outlining possible causes for this condition.

Maybe I will have the only Wheel Horse at the show. I think I am going to bring a green tractor at put a for sale sign on it. ha ha, No really I am selling it. Need to get some more money for some red tractors. Not sure if I will make the Jacksonville show yet. I will let you know on that one.

i wasnt planning on going. so much to do this month. will definitely be going down to jacksonville end of the month, though.......

That was my plan til this happened- still have my Foster duties-but had away around that for that day-now health issues- with a bad fuel pump right in the middle of it- have graced my door step. If I can get cleared by the Dr I'll drive my little Hyundai if I have to - like to met you too- as well all the other guys..... Hail to the Chief!

Since this thread has been revived and several new posts have been made, I thought that I would return and comment further. I am not here to disagree with any of the opinions expressed. Each of you obviously have your own criteria and motives. The hobby is still rather young but it is gaining momentum annually because it is AFFORDABLE. Lawn and garden tractors do not need very much real estate compared to other alternatives. Currently, they are fairly affordable BUT.... I see prices beginning to escalate. I also see enthusiasts getting into the after-market parts business because of the growing demand for items that have not been in production for decades. I see old manuals being re-printed or converted to DVD's. Attendance at tractor shows is also increasing even though the cost of showing the tractors is rising. All of this tells me that changes are in the wind for the hobby and those changes will come about as a direct result of the higher costs involved. I think it fair to say that if one has to pay a high price to purchase a restorable tractor and then pay high prices for after-market parts, then the quality of the restoration work will rise accordingly. Eventually, we will see judging take place for those who wish to enter their tractors. At some shows, judging is already taking place whether the entrants realize it or not. Ballots are handed out to the paying public and they are asked to vote for "Favourite Tractor", "Best Display", "Best Restoration" and so forth. I deem this to be the proverbial thin edge of the wedge. Competitions have a way of feeding on themselves and tractor shows themselves are in competition with one another. I have seen tractors for sale on E-Bay and C/L and the Seller has used the words "Fully Restored" when it is blatantly obvious that a proper restoration was never done. Telltale signs are overspray, missing parts, improperly installed parts, wrong parts, poor quality paint, evidence of dirt and rust in places could not be addressed without dismantling the tractor. The experienced eye sees all these things and knows that in order to correct all these deficiencies, the tractor must be stripped to the bare frame and any work performed by the former "restorer" will have to be done over. So who in their right mind is going to pay big bucks for such a tractor? You are far better off searching for an untouched barn find and doing that one up instead. Ken B has it right. The OEM often turned out a product that was rather inferior in fit and finish. Most serious restorers will produce a much superior product. But let's set aside the paint issue for a moment. To me, there are other considerations if one is trying to duplicate how a tractor was when it left the factory. Choosing the correct hardware is one aspect. Painting nuts and bolts that received paint on the assembly line should be done but installing fresh zinc plated hardware where the factory used it is also important. Duplicating the wiring harness using the correct gauge and colours along with the correct terminal ends for authenticity. These are small things but they do make a difference to the end product. Trying to find the correct tire sizes and tread patterns can be frustrating and one might have to install tubes in order to save the old rubber, even though the tires were originally tubeless. That is a small but necessary concession in some instances. The thing about this hobby is that it is an ongoing learning experience and to many, that is a large part of the enjoyment. Rarely does one turn out a near perfect product the first time around but as you continue to perform restorations, your skill level should increase and you will learn from your mistakes. For me, there is a difference between doing the very best you can and just saying that "it's good enough".

I thought I'd share my potato harvest, so here are some pictures The first two pics show row 1 which were second earlies lifted in early August, rows 2-6 were main crop and we ploughed those out about week ago. The yield was really good (which helped to make up for last years poor crop), off 6 50ft rows we got 320kgs. Its nice to know there's sacks of spuds in store, now I've just got to hope they're good keepers.

I found a gasket the flea-bay...but yamabond#4 is the right stuff.

OK I'll look for it again. I didn't find it the first time. BTW mike pm'd me back!

Submitting the 1991 312H Bought it new,rebuilt it in 2011 with inspiration provided by this forum. Here's before- Here's after- You can read about my rebuild here- I see that for some reason ,pictures are missing until post #36. Here is the link to those pictures-http://s7.photobucket.com/user/thebrnas/library/?sort=3&page=1 Just pick any folder labeled 312H ,I took quite a few pics to document the rebuild and it made it very easy to reassemble. There's also the "Infamous Roll Over" here-

I guess I will add my 1996 314-8 50th anniversary model she's a worker and mostly original I added a seat lift and 520 rims with 23x10.50x12 super lugs and three rib fronts tires Brian

i too dabblein that second link. or should i say i did at the old house good times!

Grandson loves our '90 520-8, don't we all! The renovation bits 'n pieces still in progress but the Horse performs.

Well operation Harrison Elementary School Tractor club has begun! I took an early morning drive yesterday to meet David Rice (RCTruckdaddy) I believe that is his RS name. He was nice enough to meet me half way. We swapped the tractor over on to my trailer and then had a great conversation. Headed back home and let her sit. She is a great candidate for the kids to get dirty with. Most of the parts it needs I believe I have on the shelf, but there are few things I don't think I have so I may ask if anyone has those items available for a small fee. Many folks that follow along on my Facebook page "Wheel Horse Junkies" have jumped in to lend a hand. Terry Dennis (Vinylguy) has willingly offered up a new set of decals for the machine. Bud Andrews is going to get me squared away with a new battery when the time comes. Daniel Aungst is sending a gift card to TSC to help me with costs of materials. I am trying to work with some local groups that would be willing to chip in as well so I don't have to cover the entire project out of my own pocket. Our first meeting is this Wednesday after school. We will be focused completely on safety as I continue to round up the much needed parts for this. The kids will get a chance to see the tractor for the first time and we will talk about how we are going to tackle the project. It should be a lot of fun!!!! Here it is after David so proudly presented it to me. Thank you again everyone that has given encouragement!

Dave, again, please stop using the open forum for selling, or you will be suspended.

GMR, please place a want ad for items you are looking for in the classifieds. We try not to clutter the forum with for sale and want ads. Dave, Please respond via PM, as usual. We ask that you don't use the open forum as a for sale section.

Finally got the photo to upload, seems I just had to lower the quality. Might help?! Thanks again.

welcome to red square..... first of all heres how the fuel system should look.... line comes from the tank to one side of the pump, and from the other side of the pump to the carb..... (this is my 1057, i have a 1054 as well but this one was easier to get two pics of because the hood opens, wereas the 1054 as you would know has that big heavy grill in the way) let us know first if you have a pump on the engine and the lines run through it. then it can be diagnosed from there......

Either tractor with the 8-speed is the better choice, IMHO. I have pulled a 4'x8' trailer full of oak (about a ton!) with Scott's heavy hitch... I definitely appreciated the low gears for this heavy load. The 12HP K301 pulled it just fine.

As the saying goes "To each his own." ask 100 people you'll get 100 answers. I have a 655 done up about as close as I can get it to original but with SS fasteners and I am not ashamed to admit that I drive it around all year get dog crap on the tires and scratches on the hood, about a week before the MI show I drag it out give it a good bath and touch up the scratches. From 10 feet it looks great get any closer and you will see the worn and bent steering wheel, wrong dash decal, never did do the rims, a little rust on the hub caps and the deck sounds like hell. But it is still my baby and a trailer queen in my eyes. I also have a few others that go from workers to wrecks to rollers with no engine or non running and a ratty old puller. But the other tractor I bring to the show is my C-125 worker that is more of a C-175, it's ugly, mean, and nasty but boy is it fun to drive around all weekend. Will I ever turn it into a trailer queen..Hell No! And if you try to judge either one I'll probably tell you where to go. Point is this hobby is too much fun to get all technical and the documentation for such probably doesn't exist. Toro can't even track any of the serial numbers cause someone tossed the records out years ago if they were even kept at all. Each dealer did their own version of prep and installed options after they left the factory, and it wasn't as if they were made in the millions like autos or even close to the numbers that the more popular of farm tractors were. They were a smaller regional manufacturer with no distributors out west and in the deep south, yeah they made em under license in Europe but they didn't have the following or backing of a JD, Cub, or Sears. For a company that started out in a garage and was eventually buried and died under corporate greed it is amazing that they are collected and restored at all to the degree that they are now.

Here's the routing on my 856 if that helps. Throttle cable come out of the bottom of the tank support Then goes past the starter Over the muffler pipe and down into the clamp Then attaches to the governor