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Todays score! Got a late 55 rj35 for 60 bucks and a k91 for 40. The k91 has the correct throttle cables for a 35 which is the main reason I bought it. Has some nice tins too. The 35 was the best score though! It just needs a motor, belt guard, steering wheel and engine pulley. The gas tank looks pretty decent too! The drive system is rigged...I will have to tear into it today. They have a bolt going through the hub so there probably are not pauls but it does still work. The veri drive seems to be in good shape though. The wheels and tires look great too. Hope to have it going soon. Don't think i'm going to paint it.

There was an auction near my inlaw's place where a family was selling all of their farm equipment. I talked with the owner, and he said he had purchased it from the 1st owner and that the mower has spent it's whole life locally and was always serviced at the place where it was originally sold. The 42" deck looks awesome. He gave me the manual and reciepts going back to 1999. I am not sure what year it is, anyone know? The model number is: 73400 Serial number 5902150 M14s Serial number: Spec:601559 Serial number: 2515906393 Not sure what I am going to do with it yet. Paid $550 + 10% auction fee.

Been waiting all day for my call back on this second owner tractor. Chris said he got this little 603 from the original owner years ago. Said all of his kids have grown up on it, his oldest daughter used to sleep in his arms while he was mowing with it. Said all his years living in this area he's never seen anyone with the Wheelhorse banner emblazened across the back window of their truck. You know I had to tell him about the forum and the Biglersville show too. Pretty sure he was having sellers remorse there at the end...whew! I think I got outta there just in time. LOL.

Craig: Keep the hot water heater, you were in the military, the bed is way over rated..

If you haven't already done so, don't forget to drain the transmission oil before attempting to open her up.

Bob was right, latest carb came out of the bath a little darker than the first one... was in the bath for a day and a half this time...still cleaned up much better than before though. Got another K91 going today...removed the flywheel, visually inspected the coil, condenser, both looked fine. Removed the points cover...ahhh...there's the problem, full of white, crusty corrosion. Got 'em cleaned up, and adjusted...mounted up the freshly cleaned carb, fired off on the second pull... keep this up, and I'm gonna have to piece together another round hood soon.

Actually, that paint dries to the touch very fast...no need to wait three hours to handle it...more like twenty minutes. The last one I did...I rushed right through the painting process, one light coat, waited about five minutes... then two more heavy coats back to back. I then let it dry overnight before doing the heat curing, and cool down cycles. I think I did at least three cycles of heating it up to operating temps, and cooling back down mounted on the tractor. Followed the directions on the can, not to the letter though. I think you'll find it's an easy product to work with really. Painted this one a few months ago...holding up fine so far.

The toughest task when pulling apart a trans. seems to be removing the hubs that your rear wheels bolt onto. Whatever you do, don't try to hammer them off; either you will bust them or the lock ring retainer on the inside will break, both are bad things! At the rear of your trans. you will have a 3/4" pin that goes through the two halves of the trans. and attaches your trailer hitch and/or slot hitch, remove the lock rings and drive it out with a punch ( this you can hit!) Once you have watched the vidios anr read a few postings on this site you should have no problem doing the job. Let us know how you are doing.

Really profound this time of year!-I still have these feelings-Thanks-Al http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlXDo5WhQXI

Hi guys... The 702 is starting to look even better. Last week I put on a set of correct decals on, got rid of the 65 style decals. And today I put on some new tri ribs and some nice used 6-12 lugs. The wheels were also base/clear coated and look really nice! In the last week I have gotten some hl5 lights in deals. There are 3 pretty decent lights and one broken one. I am hoping to find some brackets for it or buy some reproduction brackets. I have been hoping to put a set of hl5 lights on this since I got it and I got these lights for next to nothing. Well anyways...here are some pictures of it.

That TORO dealer has no clue on how to do a 5025 transmission. Don't you let him touch it!!! They come apart easy and go back together easier. Time for us to ask you some questions. Tools...got a 9/16 box end wrench and an assortment of sockets and a ratchet? Do you have a razor knife? Do you have a scraper? Do you have some punches and a ball peen hammer? How about some hand cleaner and some rags or paper towels? Sorry...I got to ask this...how old are you? Just curious. If you decide to tackle this, and I think you should, we all will help walk you through the process. Check out these threads and watch the videos... This thread show tons of pictures and is the same transmission that you have.

It's a keeper for now....after sorting out a few issues. With the big steering wheel it feels like an old Mack truck. I just need a Bull dog on the hood.

The 4 hp K91 shouldn't have an electric starter. What tractor is it out of or what tractor do you plan on installing it? Have you pulled the spark plug and tried turning it over? Here's the Kohler service manual that might be helpful: http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

My 1975 C-160 Auto with 1985 05-42XR05 42" rear discharge deck, restored in 2007. ( I wanted to be different and painted the front grill black)

So for years I have contemplating about digging a small root cellar for storing my potatoes. You see, I always lose a lot of my potatoes because my storage in my basement is too warm due to the furnace. So this weekend, I started digging a hole near the raised beds. I ended up with a 3 foot deep by 2 foot wide hole. Now this does not sound like a hard task unless you have stuck a spade in our Shaker Hill soil! Rocks, gravel and even more rocks after two hours with a pick axe and spade I finally came up with this; I took one of my 6 foot long pry bars and 10 pound sledge hammer and made some even deeper "Vent" holes in the bottom of the hole to allow more cool air into the area. When I was done pounding these holes, I added some landscape rock in the bottom of the hole to help with any possible drainage; I then went to the local Ace Hardware store and bought a 31 gallon galvanized metal garbage can for $25. I wanted to buy some screen from a screen door from them but he gave me a bunch of remants for free from a recent job they did! I took the can and screen home and drilled a bunch of holes in the bottom of the can. I drilled them from the inside instead of flipping it over so the metal shards would not damage any potatoes. These holes will allow the cool air from the earth into the can; I then flipped over the can and used the bottom as a guide to cut the screen. I cut two circles and placed them both in the bottom of the can. This should keep any bugs from entering; I then placed the can into the hole and back filled around the edges so the dirt was just a few inches away from the can cover; I then took some old leftover 2x10 pressure treated boards and made a 3x3 box that will cover the can opening. This space will also be fitted with a piece of rigid insulation to help keep the frost away from the top of the can; I did not have any pressure treated plywood on hand, so I will make a hinged cover for the box with a handle next weekend. This box will be mounded with dirt all the way around it and will also have some straw or hay covering it through out the winter. Hopefully this Trash Can root cellar will help keep my potatoes for a long time! I will let you know.

I have used VHT Header Paint before. I read the directions and I'm going to bake the muffler in the oven. 30 min. at 250F, let cool 30 min. etc. What I was confused about is, do I have to wait 7 days for the paint to cure, before baking it? The directions seem a little gray as to how long to wait before baking it. I read some instructons for VHT header paint. They say to wait until paint is dry. They said it takes 3 hours before being able to handle what I painted. I'm assuming to start the baking process after the 3 hour drying time. If anyone has any advice. I would appreciate it.

Nice find!!! You can park it in my living room. lol

Nice clean tractor Craig! Clean it up and change the seat and you are good to go.

So...something's gotta go. No worries Mike...I'll make room. Hot water heaters are way over rated anyway.

Looks like a nice one, Craig.

Nice looking tractor, there was one listed on our local CL a few weeks ago, but I never have luck with Tecumseh.

Park it in the bedroom! Or are you sleeping in the truck with it?

OK, which barrel are you in? See now I wish I lived closer. We'd have a mini tractor tag team!

Hana OK I will! Thanks guys.

No, new bearings will not take care of in and out...just up and down and side to side. In and out play to about 1/8" or a little more is normal...you will see why when you take it apart. Just relax for a bit, watch the sun go down and call me tomorrow. Talk with your horse, give it a carrot and a lump of sugar...this is out patient surgery. It will be OK.

If you get that hitch pin out...you are home free. The hardest part is done. Run the seam with a razor knife between the 2 halves after you take out the bolts...make sure you have the shallow side of the trans down and the shifter out...you are just cutting the paint...find a good edge between the castings and use a good sharp chisel or scraper to break loose the trans halves...separate evenly...use a pry bar or two at different spots...the factory did not use gasket sealer, and we will not use it to put it back together, you can pry it up easily after that. Did I say that it is a great idea to file the ends of all shafts...ie...file all burrs...so there is no hold up pulling the two halves of the trans apart?? Use your hand to feel the ends of the shafts for high parts or burrs...file them smooth first before trying to take the trans half apart. It is soft metal and does not take much, but worth the time when you put it back together....plus saving seals.

I have a Vinyl graphic cutting plotter at my shop I will make WH logos and put them on. What a stellar Idea that is.

Know that you have brothers and sisters in Christ all over the country/globe with the family in their prayers. He is a great God, and He will work at all for glory. . . now or in the future. Jeff

The 702 has always been one of my favorite tractors. Yours looks great. you should be very proud of yours. Thanks for sharing the pics.

HEY! THERE'S A PARADE COMING! I'll be represent~en....of course. http://montgomeryday.com/ http://www.newyorkfairsandfestivals.com/394496-general-montgomery-day-montgomery-new-york-september-2013.htm

That is a good looking machine Jake. Love the tri-ribs and AG's. Looks like you have plenty of space there to stretch its legs.

For what it's worth I'll add my .02 on installing seals - I found over the years, this overall easy procedure to be very tricky - one little missed burr - going over the key slot etc and your seal will nick and leak - I've installed some 2 -3 times before I got it .... My personal seal install procedure : 1) Clean all burrs off axle or shaft 2) Tape key-way slot - ( key-ways will cut/nick seals ) I use a small piece of electric tape 3) I then wrap shaft with a small amount of plastic wrap from the kitchen being careful not to wrap where the seal seats ( getting the wrap out from under the seal seated is not fun ) - this is my insurance in case I missed a bur . 4) I use 3 in 1 oil to wet the outside of plastic wrap 5) Same 3 in 1 oil on seal itself where it meets axle/shaft 6) Gently and evenly push seal on shaft to case- larger seals I gently seat with the appropriate size black iron pipe ( nipple ) with end cap on tapping end and gently ( very important to drive seal in level and even ) tap seal in with my 8-10 oz ball pien hammer Over the years I've taken seals to lowe's and matched them up with the appropriate size pipe nipple for driving, think I have 5 or 6 pieces in the tool box, some smaller ones ( seals ) couldn't find a nipple that would work - these were installed with the widest punch in my box going around the seal and slowly/gently tapping it in in until it seats . For whatever reason, maybe it's just luck - I find the 3 in 1 oil best for installing seals - knock on wood I haven't had a leaker since I started using it . Hope this helps - I never drive seals " dry " '

It doesn't look quite as pretty today...but this is what it looked like when it was rattle canned in 2007.

I'm jammed up but I think I can squeeze it in my garage. Nice tractor. Marvin

My guess is it isn't tight enough. To adjust pull the hair pin and turn the trunnion. Shorten to tighten, and lengthen to loosen.

You can try adjusting the Trunion attached to the forward end of the lever rod (Pivot point) where it attaches to the Bellcrank above the PTO. I think you back it off the threads try one turn and see if it stays engaged. If not try another until it remains engaged.

I did the search thing but can't nail down what Eaton a 97' 314h has in it. It appears the 1100 is better than the 700. Any easy way to tell by looking at it? Regards, Kpd

I love my C-160 and $350 is awesome ........ the lug tires alone are probably $100 - $150 each, and with the weights and blade WOW... .. super buy! The brakes shouldn't be too costly. Also, I like the idea of not touching anything cosmetically..... C-160's are more like draught "horses" not show horses! (in my opinon) Steve (aka Dresden Guy)

51Chevy, yes they are new. They are Kenda Loadstar 4.80-8 LRB 4 Ply Bias Trailer Tires. Found them online at trailertiresandwheels.com for $16 a piece. Of all the different new tires I've seen in this size, the sidewall ribs on these seemed the most pleasing to me. http://www.trailertiresandwheels.com/product/4.80X8-load-range-b-4-ply-kenda-loadstar-bias-trailer-tire

I feel like a black sheep with my 1982 red hood . This is a unrestored 1982 SK486 with 1300 hours I bought new. I use it about 20-25 hours in the fall to clean up leaves. I use and old 42" deck for my vacuum system. I mow with a 99 314-8 Bowtie in Ohio

Kelly I have done quite a few. Very easy but on an assembled engine need to be carefull with shavings. besides plugging hole with a paper towel i keep taking tap out and vacuuming shavings often. Kind of important to go in as deep as possible since hole in engine is a bit oversize for 1/2"tap. Going in deeper allows you to have higher percentage of thread on high part of taper so there is less chance of stripping threads when tightening nipple. On an engine without the valve this is really easy since you can see tap bottoming out through port. Of course important to go in perpendicular to opening. Here are some photos of a K90 I just did.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTH6nrD0ars This ones for you Steve.......hope you still have some left!!!!!! Whiskey that is.....In a Jar!!!!!

A song you've never heard them sing even if you're a fan, must see! one of a kind! I believe it was the only time they performed this one

The only and I repeat only country I will listen too is Johnny Cash and maybe a little David Allen Coe or Charlie Daniels. As Hank Williams III says in "Dic in Dixie" "pop country really sucks" But mostly it is Classic Rock, Zeppelin, Floyd.... I also listen to metal like, Iron Maiden, Pantera...

This a rattle can job, with very little prep work, a scuff and shoot.

Wow!! You guys do great work! Makes me want to start gathering up some cans.

Here are some pic's of the 18 auto I am restoring using rattle cans.