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A couple years ago I was at Harbor Freight and picked up a 2000lb Bad Lands Winch. At the time I didn't know what I would put it on. This spring a friend of mine picked up one also and he made a spindly mount made out of perforated steel and it bent like a pretzel. He sent me the dimensions of the frame and mount and I made him one which he mounted on his John Deere tractor. He built an "A" Frame and was going to use his winch to lift up his tractor to be able to service it etc.. Well in doing so I thought since I only use my 417A to pull attachment's with I would mount my Winch on the front of mine. As in just about everything I do I get carried away with the size of material needed but some of the time as is in this case I use what size stock I have. I made it to secure with the attach matic but also used bolts through the frame for a permanent mount. I also picked up the electronic remote control which comes in handy. So far I have used it on a couple of recovery missions one of which I pulled a lawn ranger out of some weeds, and loading some tractors pulling them up the ramps on a trailer. So far it works pretty good. I hope it don't fall off! Here are some pics. Cheers ~Duke

Me and my dad (horse700special) picked up this little 1965 lawn ranger for $75 last winter. We got it home and cleaned the carb and it fired right up!, this was my first attempt at hlvp painting but it turned out pretty good I think! I discovered that this is the tractor in the photos from tractor data .com I think that is pretty neat! http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/000/3/1/313-wheel-horse-l-155-photos.html

In the fall of 1971 Wheel Horse sales requested the R&D dept. to come up with a full size garden tractor with more power than the then big shot GT-14, a rear PTO to power implements and a category 0 3 point hitch. They ended up coming up with the 1973 18 auto which would eventually be the D180 in 1974. During their development they decided to go with a "divorced" hydro system with the pump being driven directly off the motor and the hydro motor being mounted to the transmission with a set of steel lines coupled to the pump to drive the unit. They called it the "in-line power train". They also had 2 hydraulic spool valves, 1 controlled the mid implement lift and 1 for the rear 3 point. There was a actually provisions to disconnect the rear rubber lines from the steel lines and use the spool valve to power rear mounted implements. Through the years there were improvements but the tractors were basically the same. In 1976 they improved the drive system by putting grade 8 bolts in the bull gear to help stop them from shearing off and damaging the transmission when they fell into it and also by putting an external brake band to aid the transmission's hydraulic braking with mechanical braking. 1974 brought the D-160 which was Onan Powered, and the D180 and 200 which were powered by Kohler 482 and 532 engines respectively. 1975 was the last year for D-180 and in 1976 the folks in South Bend entered into and arrangement with Guttbrod from Germany. They had them build a tractor for them which they rebranded the Wheel Horse D-250, it was based on the Guttbrod 2500 and was Renault powered. The D160, 200 and 250 all continued until 1981 when they discontinued the D-160 and continued on with the D-200 and 250. In 1982 both tractors disappeard form the line up of machines and the D was replaced by the C-195 or "Super C" for 1982 and 1984. In 1983 there were no actual C-195s built but there were a few 1982 leftovers sold as 1983's

Oh, alright then! It did make a very good drinks table Can't believe I booked time off work to make sure I could make it over.... I think I was more excited than you stickering it up it felt good to be there seeing the finishing touches being applied! Great to catch up again, thanks again for your hospitality and thanks again for letting me take her for a spin. I'll get some of my pics potatobucketed and on here and my site. For now here's two phone pics Cheers

Thanks David, I think it's certainly going to get it's fair share of attention. Right Guy's n Girl's Can you guess what time it is?? Yep that's right, it's photo time.... A couple of "arty" shot's to begin with.. The superb "Richard refurbished" dash panel in place. And at long last, the ol girl gets to go outside again.. The poor thing has been stuck in the Shack since the snow was on the ground! A very BIG to Mark (Meadowfield) for the amazing custom decals which really add the finishing touches to the ol girl.. Looks great don't she.. :D And if it will work as PotatoBucket refuses to work as it should today, here's a vid of Mark pottering around the garden on the 6X6 Go on Mark, you can now post the picture of the "Wheel Horse bar" :beer:

To ship engines under 60 lbs: 1. Drain all fluids from the engine. 2. Remove, if possible, any components that are sharp or protruding from engine and pack them separately. 3. Get a roll of bubble wrap with the LARGE (approx. 1 inch) bubbles. Wrap the engine COMPLETELY in ALL directions with at least 6-8 inches of bubble wrap, and tape it securely. Basically you make the engine in to a ball of bubble wrap. Other forms of “protection†such as newspaper, packing peanuts, foam from your old couch cushions, or those big air filled pillows are virtually worthless in holding back a heavy engine so don’t bother with them. 4. Get either a DOUBLE WALL box of appropriate size, or better yet form a true double box by fitting one single wall box inside another. Single wall boxes used alone when shipping an engine are the number one reason an engine gets damaged. Number two are the worthless packing materials listed above. 5. Pack engine in box, and make sure it doesn’t move around a lot. Use extra bubble wrap to fit the wrapped engine snugly in the box. Tape box securely. 6. To do it right and have the best assurance against damage, any engine weighing much over 60 lbs. (this includes most of your cast iron Kohlers and the like) needs to be crated in a fully enclosed minimum ½ inch thick plywood crate with the engine bolted to a wooden support secured to the crate that won’t allow the engine to move if the crate is tilted in any direction. This in addition to draining the fluids. As long as the engine can’t move, no additional packing is needed. I send these instructions to everyone I buy a small engine from off of E-Bay. I have had too many collectible engines and blocks get cracked or broken through shipping by packaging that was a complete effortless joke. -Mark-

Just finished up installing Matt's Hydro foot control and doing some maintainence and belt replacing. The conversion was very easy and the instructions and parts Matt provides are first rate. It took about 3-4 hrs for the actual conversion with no problems or alterations other than drilling the holes for the nuetral positioning bearing and the spring associated with it. Nice Job, Matt!!!!! Here are some pics of my 520H with the new control and the Honda muffler I decided to use. The muffler that came with the Honda kit was too close to the PTO linkage. The Honda muffler also has a heat shield. I did have to cut into the hood, but it does not look bad or adversely affect the tractor. I replaced all the belts and cleaned out years of crap around the transmission and other areas. I also cleaned up the mower deck tensioner and got that working properly again. Red

started taking my 857 apart today. my plan is to make it a worker, we'll see how it turns out. this is what i started with. this is what the inside of the gas tank looks like. will an e-tank clean the inside of the gas tank? removing the pin from the hitch, it was stuck pretty tight as it sits now. overall it looks to be in pretty good shape.

I started this clean up and repaint at 9 this morning and wrapped things up at 5 pm. I removed and stripped all tins to bare metal, primed and then painted them. I originally bought the decal kit for my 520 but I came to the decision that the 520 was too clean to repaint. I cut out the 520-H on the decals and put em on. i could care less that it doesn't say 417-8 on the hood, I know what it is. All I have to do is install some new running board mats and put on the new rear lights. I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

A couple weeks ago I Bought a Herd of Horses From A Deceased Guys Family. See this Post It wasn't Soon that I received a Call from an Ole Horse Trader from way back! And I Offered him the Whole Herd and then some. Well that is except for the 520-H and the 953 << (MJ's Tractor Needs the Fan Gear Steering and Rear End out of it). So last Week we came to terms and Ole Brrly1 showed up on my doorstep in a Torrential Downpour and we both got soaked to the Bone loading tractors. (Sorry no pics of that trip Other than the friendship visiting I would rather forget the crappy weather). Tonight John showed up again for the second haul with a friend Ed & his Wife Dawn that met him from a town just a few Miles away from me and we loaded John's trailer full Of Tractors and Implement's. I gave them all a tour of my stable and tractors and of course sent them all home with some apple juice. That stuff is good for just about anything that ails ya! John It was great to see you again and Ed was great meeting you and your wife Dawn. Here are some Pics now the inventory is back down to 20. Cheers ~Duke

MY .... Plywood box seems like a lot of work when the engines the shop orders kohler, briggs, honda etc. come in a cardboard box with no problems, plus wood is a lot heavier than cardboard so shipping is substantially more....personally I have shipped around 10 engines in doubled up cardboard boxes and never had a problem I let Fed Ex do the work and all they use is paper for packing material, I just shipped a 1930's briggs model A engine to Utah with no problems.

Wooooooooooow Ian, I can't believe that's the same Beast!! Its absolutely gorgeous! Its been a long time coming, but it was worth the wait, and I'm sure I can speak for every RS member when I say congrats, and well done. Those decals look fantastic on there, and really give it the final touch. Nice job Mark, and I really like the "In The Shack engineering" one. I believe this is going to steel the show. The only thing that could make this any better, would be to see a dozer blade on the front! Matt

No record here...but turn up the volume for this one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ju6rvbu7Cps

Good old tractor. Them old Cub's are a tough old beast.

It seems like I'm always coming across things when I don't need them. A buddy of mine called me up and said a couple old Dodge's showed up at a local scrap yard. First is a is a 1961 W300 Power Wagon 4x4 with a 10k winch on the front and second is a 1972 W600 Power Wagon 4x4 with a 20k winch in the bed. Both were owned by the same guy. He also brought in a 1977 Dodge M887 Military Ambulance but it was pretty rough. Needless to say, both of these were saved from the crusher that day

The tractor is a 1981 and this is the 1981 42" SD deck 05-42MS02 Replaces RL-426, 5-1421, 5-1422, 5-1423, 5-1000, 5-1001, 5-1010, 5-1011, 5-1012, 65-42MS01, 65-42MS02, 75-42MS01, 75-42MS02, 85-42MS01, 95-42MS00, 95-42MS01, 05-42MS01, A5-42MS02, [05-42MS02] Replaced by 05-42MS03, 05-42MS04, 05-42MS05, 15-42SC01, 15-42SC02, 15-42SC03, 78345 Here is a good manual for identifying exactly what you have but spindle disassembly is required for it to work. When you click on a line for a deck model a single page will open showing the replacement spindle assemblies used over the years for the original. Garry

The clutch safety switch should have two wires attached. That switch is in series with the wire coming from the start terminal of the ignition switch to the solenoid. "In series" means that it is part of the complete circuit. You have to think of the circuit as a circle (hence the name). The circle starts at the (+) terminal of the battery, goes to the ignition switch, through the PTO switch, through the clutch safety switch, to the (+) terminal of the coil on the solenoid, through the solenoid coil to ground. Since ground is also connected to the (-) terminal of the battery, you have made a complete circle. Any break in that circle will keep the solenoid from engaging. The circle is broken when you release the start switch, release the clutch or engage the PTO. Any loose or disconnected wire will also break the circle. The wiring harness on the C-100 is probably one of the simplest there is. It is quite easy for even a "non electrical" person to figure it out without even a meter or test light. It is a matter of just finding the wire to the small terminal on the solenoid and see where it goes. On the C-100 that wire should go down to one terminal of the clutch safety switch. From the other terminal of the clutch safety switch, a wire should go to one terminal of the PTO switch. From the other terminal of the PTO switch, a wire should go directly to the (S) starter terminal of the ignition switch. All of this should be able to be seen by the naked eye.

I would definitely NOT recommend just 'trying it' to see what happens... It MAY be where the wire comes from, but when you are dealing with wires and electricity, you do NOT want to simply take a wild azz guess and 'experiment'. You need to KNOW with some degree of certainty that the wire you are replacing is going where it needs to go. To do otherwise could in fact bring meaning to your statement including the term ' fire up ' ... I'm not familiar with your model but I can read schematics... I 5ucked at organic chemistry though... I can't get to the schematic you posted here at my 'day job' but if nobody has helped before this evening, I'll take a look at it then. If you can trace that errant wire back to it's source and tell us where it comes from that would help...

I'm pretty loyal to red, but I like those old cubs World of difference between those models and the garbage they put out today . . .

That sure worked out didn't it! You got to keep what you wanted and the rest is gone. Ya gotta love it when a plan works out! (watch that back liftin things Duke, you ain't no spring chicken )

It's got to be low to reach 'em...all his Techy's are 6 feet under.

MORE PICTURES

I use old trim that was on the vinyl seats of the wheel horses. the trim that went around the vinyl and steel backed frames , I have saved the old stuff when a seat wears out to use for the hood/dash closing trim. It works just like the original stuff.

My Power King runs a 14 HP K and powers a 7 GPM pump for the loader. but it's an all gear drive with an automotive clutch. Consider the fact the hydro trans is going to consume about 2 HP to run. Depending on how much work you do with the loader the 14 may be fine.

That's the one - I managed to see the " inde " on a piece when I was fiddling with it .

In 1974 my father bought a brand new C160 Automatic, 36" RD deck, dump cart and Parker Sweeper to replace our junkyard Springfield. During my mowing years, I used this tractor every week. We didn't have a snow blade or blower so it was a summer tractor only. My father passed away in 1991, and my mother kept the tractor. When I bought my house in 1993, I bought my brand new 416-H because of the experience with the C-160. Well, my mother moved and no longer needed a tractor, gave the C160 to my brother and God knows what happened to it but sad to say it's gone. I had wanted to have a father / son project and thought what better tractor to get than a C-160 Automatic. Looking around all I could find was an old Electro and C-120 Automatic. A short time later Eldon (kj4kicks) found a C-160 somewhere in the midwest. It ran but wasn't much to look at. He offered to go pick it up (he was going that way anyway) bring it back and trade the Electro and C-120 for it. I agreed because it would complete the cycle from my father, to me to my children. Well, I went to pick up my C-160, expecting to get a rusty old tractor, but instead I received this: It turns out that with a collection from the members, and Eldon's awesome talent, he dismantled the tractor, painted it, and put it together. There was only a few odds and ends for me to complete. It was a complete surprise and I am still in awe of what everyone had done for me. This is one C-160 which is truly a RedSquare tractor, and it is my entry for this month's category!

Im a D guy, but i bought a C pump and motor unit at a great price to see if they were similar. From what I can tell they are exactly the same. The difference is in how they are connected. The D has the manifold, the C the motor bolts directly to the pump. Same ports, same orings as the D. The sundstrand manual in the manual section shows how they go together. I would drop the transaxle in the C, clean it out, pull the hydro motor and check it out too. Whatever goes into the pump goes into the motor. Clean everything, fresh filter, fresh oil. Dont put a rebuilt pump or motor on without doing this. Whatever took out the pump can still be in the system.

Saved from virtual Scrap. Belgium Built Euro Model. Was in a real bad way. Original Engine totally wasted. Fully Re-bored/Rebuilt an alternative 12hp. ......Full 2 year project. Now with Tri Ribs-

An 855 with an RM364 square deck will cut through almost anything, sip's gas, and will pull anything (within reason). Have used mine for decades now with nothing more than normal maintenance.

Duke I clicked on the pic in your signature and read this thread. Awesome job! Here is the problem, ever DVR a tv show and the previous program runs over time and you miss the last ten minutes of the show? Well where are the pics of the mower deck racks installed?

Thanks! Well 5 more tractors hit the stable today and made it on the platform. The Platform just stood there and laughed at me! I think it made some smart azz comment like "DUKE IS THAT ALL YA GOT? That's the problem with overbuilt Platforms they act too Cocky Anyways here are some picks of the Duke's Thundering Herd!