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Morning all, this story starts quite a while back when I replied to a "What would be your top 5 WH's?" thread late last year.. As you will of guessed a GT-14 was on my list.. The next morning I woke up to find a message sent from Neil asking do I want to buy a GT-14?? What a top bloke eh Neil had bought this GT only for the 3 point and rotovator to put on the back of his other GT, which is fair enough, and I already have one Wh with a 3 point fitted so I wasn't bothered about not having it.. Due to one thing and another and life getting in the way for both of us the GT finally arrived Thursday afternoon.. So how do you get a rather heavy and non running GT from the back of a van into my garden?? By Wheel Horse of course At this point I need to say a very big THANK YOU to Paul (compo1970) for bring the GT all the way from cider country to sunny Kent in exchange for a huge pile of Kohler twin spares.. Thank you Paul, it was a pleasure to meet another RS member.. The GT gets the in the shack. The plan is to put a tube in the flat front tire.. Get the engine running, it has no spark at the mo so my first port of call will be checking the points followed by checking the somewhat sliced and diced wiring loom that had been modified by the owner before Neil. And then just use it.. The body has a bit of paint missing, a bit of surface rust and a few dents... I love it and don't plan to change a thing.. No restoration here, just a check over, replace a few missing nuts and bolts, and give it a wipe over with an oily rag once in a while to keep the rust at bay. A few random photo's.. The dash panel has shrunk over time, I will replace it should a good dash come up for the right price at the right time.. The shifter plate has shrunk a bit as well, I will take this off and glue it a a flat bit of ally the same size and shape before screwing it back on. The exhaust needs a bit of a tweak I'm not sure if this isolation switch has been fitted to stop anyone driving off on it (not that it would be hard to bypass) or so the battery can be easily disconnected because an electrical gremlin is in the works and is draining the battery.. Neil did very kindly throw a cutting deck into the deal, but I forgot to take any photos of it.. So there you go guy's, I now have one of my dream Wheel Horses in my collection

Following on from a thread in the euro zone, I thought I'd ask on the main forum... Anyone use a summer vehicle, maybe a soft top of some kind, sports car, vintage, wind in the hair type thing. Here's my weapon of choice when its hot, its 71 years old and been in the family for 54 of them. I learned to drive (well steer) when I was 6 in it. Lots of memories.

Got this 1965 1054 from an 88yr old gentleman that had bought it at one year old from the OE, so it had pretty good provenance for most of its life and it was in surprisingly original condition, though pretty badly neglected with poor maintenance and sitting outside. Gas tank rotten, with rust flushed all through system, front suspension/steering badly worn/sloppy, LOTS of rust, with some places eaten through, wiring a total mess, no grille/headlights, engine on verge of throwing rod, bad tires, etc, etc. Completely disassembled and sand blasted everything, replacing/repairing any thing needing it, using Rustoleum 'Sunrise Red' for paint. While I did want to bring it back to 'original' as possible, many will note that I veered from that in places, but I think I was still able to stay pretty close to a Wheel Horse look. The most obvious is the seat - my thinking was the original seat was a pretty poor design anyway and after market seats are plentiful and cheap, so --- thats a Target seat off a handicap scooter! Steering wheel is a 3 spoke instead of a 2. The original size rear tires are non existent, so they are larger. A sharp eye will also note the addition of caster wheels on the front of the deck, I thought the original skid bar was also a poor design, so I made a correction there also (and casters there work MUCH better too) Also a sharp eye will notice I went to sleep when I put the hood decal on!! Oh well, aint that big a deal, I guess... (the hood was on the bench and not on the tractor...) Heres a link to all the pictures I took during the rebuild - quite a few of them, but I know that when I was doing this rebuild, scouring through the many pics here on the forum I was able several times to see an area that I had been puzzling about and the pic would help me, so maybe one in this bunch will help some one out.

You might want to look at ( a1biofuel ) they have the 6 and 10 HP diesels. The 10 HP is only 1.7 inches taller then the 6 HP and only $30 differrence in price. I think some one on the board made an adapter for the diesel air breather to keep from cutting the hood. http://www.a1biofuel.net/

I bought this back in March. I don't know how far I'm going to go with this project. I still prefer B & C series tractors. But I figured if I don't like the 5 series, I can sell it. I was wondering where I could find a basic manual for the 520. I also was wondering how to adjust the hydro. It doesn't go all the way in reverse. I don't know how to adjust this. I lifted the seat and can see the plate isn't going all the way back like it should, when I try to put it in reverse. Also I aligned the steering wheel but I noticed there is a lot of play in it. How do I correct this. What is the correct hydro filter? Do the filters of the sunstrand hydros work? I've heard others talk about adjusting the valves on these beasts. That may be beyond my skill level. How do I know if the valves are out of adjustment? I have started adding some seafoam to the fuel. I think this is going to be a long term project. By the way it is a beast... what power!!

Recently Terry in in MO had asked about what snow plows fit what. I took some pics & some measurements & hopefully help those who don't know along. Also sorry about the bad pic quality & the rusty plow frames. In this first pic you see the 3 common sizes of snow plow frames. (1) on the left being a "short frame" (2) in the center being an early "long/large frame" (3) on the right is a current style "long frame" Plow (1) measures 56" from the mounting pin to the pivot bolt at the top. Plow(2) is 61" from the mounting pin to the pivot bolt. And plow (3) is 64" from the mounting pin to the pivot bolt. Since all these plows use the same angle for the blade they all measure the same from the pivot bolt forward. Now if the long frame (3) looks funny...it is ...It's actually a copy made by New Vac MFG. but has the same dimensions as the Wheel Horse brand plows minus the angle lever on the side. Also the newer style "long frame" snow plows have 2 holes at the end of the frame allowing you to move the mounting pin in order to fit a long or short frame tractor. Plow frames (1) & (2) use an older style mount that bolts up on the forward facing side of the uni drive transaxle. The mounting pin area on (1) & (2) measure 15" across & the mount grabs it from the out side of the frame. This same type of mount will work on the newer long frames to if the mounting pin is long enough. Plow frame (3) uses a newer mount that measure's 11 1/2" across. It hangs off the bottom of the uni drive transaxle & grabs the plow frame mounting pin from the inside of the frame. The newer style rear axle mount also will not work well with plow frames (1) & (2) The one at the front of the picture would be the newer style. The one at the back of picture is the old style mount & is used on short, long & large frame tractors The "large frames" are the 953,1054,1054A, A GT14. The C195, D series & the 520 with the forward swept axle do not fit in the above descriptions.

I've had this tactor for a couple of years and I finally got around to cleaning it up and painting it. Still a little detailing to do, but for the most part, there it is!

I have never seen one, but had to bring it home Wheel horse 22 rotary mower model number 3-1641 serial number 603802 I could use some advice on what year, how rare are these The gentleman i got this from, it was his father-in-laws and he purchased it new, came with the origanal manual

So after years of searching, finding, not affording - I landed a C160. I found it on a local auction site and put in a pretty decent high bid because I really wanted one. As the auction wound down I had a couple other bidders jump in so I raised my bid even higher. I think I scared them off and the final price didn't even come close to my first bid. So I call the contact and he tells me that it's one nice tractor and he wished he could have bid on it. I get there to pick it up and it's sitting back in the barn just staring at me. I knew it was rusty from the pictures but wasn't exactly sure about the mechanical condition other than the description that said "runs and drives". I walk over, shake the mans hand and start talking with him about the tractor. He says, "looks like it's built really good but it's got these weird pulleys over here" as he points at the PTO pulleys. I mention what they are for and he says I must really know my stuff . I asked if I need to grab my jump box and he tells me that it seemed to start just fine. So I hop on, flip the choke and turn the key. It fires right up, turn down the choke open up the throttle and listen to that sweet sound. Might be my mind but I swear it sounds deeper and more powerful than the 12HP Kohlers. Push the motion control lever forward and off I went, not into the sunset, but up the ramps into the back of my truck. Got her home, but not sure what I want to do with it now. It's a very nice restorable piece, but I was planning on removing the engine, painting it up and putting it into my black and silver C125. I figure the extra power would be nice for the tilling and everything else I put that tractor through. What are your guys' thoughts? Of course I'll do with it what I want but just want to hear some ideas and opinions. Oh and pics to come of course. John

Glad to hear you're making progress and thanks for your encouraging messages. You'll win this battle.

Check out my thread here on Red Square about putting a diesel engine in a Lawn Ranger. It should be some help and give you an idea of what it takes to do it.

My summer fun car...turns just forty years old this year.

I like the sheen BBQ black primer produces... once fully cured, I then cut it lightly with just an automotive paste wax...to achieve the nice, even sheen I like. Last two picts shows before and after waxing it. The more aggressive you are with the waxing proceedure...the more reflection it's going to produce.

I came into RS this morning, like many of you do everyday, with one topic on my mind. I wanted information about a tiny little missing part that is of course a necessary piece for operation of an attachment for one of my tractors. The part I need is actually still available new, and I generally like to support my local dealers and did just buy other parts there yesterday. But this time, the part I need is suffering from a case of Toro pricing it towards obsolescence. Even the dealer said I should investigate alternatives. He'd have to order it, and it's just stupidly priced. So I came back and checked all the usual cheaper online options like RCPW, Partstree and mowpart.com, but they were barely marginally below the dealer price. I checked Ebay for a used one (nope) Then, like most people generally do when they come in with one thing on their mind and just want a quick answer, I jumped to the section I wanted and I almost started a new topic in Implements and Attachments, but then it hit me .... I said "self....did you for that answer?... this has probably been covered here before." It's a fairly common part, applicable to multiple attachments. So, up to the trusty search box, I proceeded to search by just the part number, and lo and behold.... 9 topics. Three of which included the specifications I needed to buy my part at the hardware store, and several others with pictures of the OEM part as well as some homemade and makeshift adaptations. So... Thank you contributors for the information I was looking for. I've acknowledged that contribution by hitting the thanks button on those old posts, and hitting the "Like" button so you could see it. Everyone's contributions here over the years are appreciated. Without all the input we've had in the nearly 7 years now, this place wouldn't be the place it is. From the tech and history, to the comic and jokes and everything in between. This is why Iove Thank you all!

That remains to be seen...the show ain't over yet Mike.

What a really nice bloke that Neil is

Im pretty sure the shaft on the 8hp is a 1 inch also. Now as far as you other questions, you will have to pull a spec sheet for both motors and compare. Im not familiar with the diesel you are talking about but Im sure you can gather all the info.wiring same thing, You most likely wont use most of the original harness. Sounds like a fun project though.

Good find Mike and rare too! Looks good mounted on your 701...KJ

Anytime, you can say "free", and "Wheel Horse" in the same sentence, you did GOOD!!!! Matt

I think he is working on a 35 year old 8-speed. Maybe a C-101? Just a guess.

Teaser

cant wait to see it Mike

The coffee mug decals are really cool. Could you make one up for me with my Wheel Horse puller on it? Looking forward to the WHCC show in PA again this year. ~ Dave T. ( Cruisnblue48 ) from York, PA

You didn't put a blade on upside down did you. I know that would make one sid cut higher; please don't ask me how I know.

For consideration I present to you my 1963 Model 653, that I purchased from the original owner back in the fall of 2011. Here's a short video called "Passing The Torch" I made the day I picked up the tractor from Bob...not everyday you get to take ownership of a piece of history originally purchased 48 years ago...so, I definitely wanted to honor the opportunity with more than just a picture. h Bob stated to me that he actually had this tractor listed multiple times on Ebay, but couldn't seem to find anyone who would commit to purchasing it once they found out it was a Tecumseh powered unit...I guess their loss is my gain, because it's been nothing but a great little performer for me. I mean look at this little guy...hard to believe it's half a century old this year...and still going strong. The first couple of detail picts are the day it arrived here at it's new home...the rest are different configurations I've had it in over the past year and a half since I've owned it. We've definitely had nothing but fun with this little for sure...still mowing, and showing with the best of 'em.

Steve Absolutely you will be and I am updating the design to match the 2013 redsquare official show mug Your original is a classic and now you will have the second coming of the STEVASAURUS mug. Here are the 13 I have so far with I hope many more to come.

I agree with Meadowfield, but understand about 90% of the members here would not feel comfortable or have the abilities to do so. I put about a gal. of diesel or kero in the trans, what ever is cheaper, then 2 or 3 qts of cheap like I said motor oil or ATF, then if clean fill with 2qts gear oil, what ever weight you want, it's not that big of a deal these tractors only go 7mph top speed, I use synthetic gear oil in my keepers, but it cost more, but has it's advantages.

personally I would just undo the two halves, split the tranny, check for any bits - bent shift fork, etc... prise out and change the axle seals, input and brake seals, clean with some gas, rinse, dry, rebuild and clean oil... will cost around the same, take the same time and you will be certain the tranny is good for another 25 years! You do not need to take every last piece apart, providing you ensure the shift select mechanism doesn't ping out, you can clean and rinse, rebuild largely in tact :D

I myself drain it, refill with Kerosene then jack up the back wheels, start it and put it in gear for a tad bit then drain it. I do this procedure a couple of times till the Kerosene starts coming out clear. I then refill the tranny with oil run it around then drain it to get the mix of Kerosene and oil out. Then refill with oil again. It's important to make sure that you get as much Kerosene out of the transmission as possible because it will break down the lubricating properties of the oil. With todays prices on Kerosene and oil it's not cheap to clean one out but there again new bearings and other parts most certainly are not cheap. I am sure there are other methods, there are a lot of members on here who have face the same thing. They may have better ideas and will chime in.