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Ok. Here's a little history about getting the calendars professionally done. Last year after the calendar was available for down load. I did so and found out my 704 was in it. My brother owns a printing business and I asked him how much trouble it would be to have him print it out nice so I would have a keep sake. He said it's almost as much trouble to do 1 as it is to do 1000. Most of the labor is in the set up. Then the purple dinosaur in Illinois, steveasauras fell off of his rickety ladder and broke his hip. I found out thru this forum he was going to be laid up for a while and in a lot of pain. I had never met Steve. but I could tell by the way he was being harassed by forum members that he must be a great guy! Even if he is a Bears fan! I decided then I would send him one and give out some more to some of the great guys I have met or gotten invaluable help here with my tractor issues. Steve called me one night and told me how much it meant to him. I still never met the guy but I knew I made a friend for life. He asked me if he could buy 6 more and after twisting my brother's arm a little he stopped what they were doing and ran them off. They came out so good I decided to investigate offering them to everybody. My brother said he would charge me the cost of the materials and paying the computer/setup man. I guessed I would need about 30 and I was right. I had about 40 responses wanting them but only 20 paid. I'm giving out 9 out of my own pocket to guys here that I have met this year and some special and deserving ones that make this place what it is with all the help (Bob, Brian) Keeping the site going (Karl) the calendar file itself (Justin) WH Mid West (Scott) and of course the ball busting (Steve, Craig) ect. They hope to start on the printing process Monday. Depends on what other jobs are still in the works. I called my brother yesterday to check on the schedule but he's in Jersey going to the Saint's/Giants game. I hope to get them all out before the holiday. I'll keep my fingers crossed Merry Christmas to all and to all KEEP THEM HORSES WARM AND RUNNING!!! Mike (squonk) (I know, what's a squonk)

I downloaded the calendar this afternoon and was so impressed with the pictures I had to create a banner for my shop. You can not imagine how many of my customers who come in the shop ask what a Wheel Horse is. Now I can show them what all the decals go on to bring these American Icons back to life. Problem is it is a big banner. 2 1/2 ft x 5 ft and I am running out of room to display it. But I will find a wall. LOL Great job on the calendar :bow-blue:

Got engine parts, block bored .040 with a sleeve in one cylinder. Genuine cummins, made in china headgasket! Mahle deep dish pistons that I plan to fly cut for valve clearance. Firewall almost done. Cut out the old, in with the new. Looks MUCH better! Finished stripping the final door and welded up all trim holes. Looking at this Dana 80: Hydroboost mocked up and leveled before I welded on the keyed index ring: Done: Still need to cut heater box hole. Integrated the steering column mount into the firewall as well. Will get more pics and updates tuesday: Messing around in the shop Charlie

Looks like a very big year for the forum. Hard to get a good image with my phone and the glare from lights. Today was a fun day in the shop. But tomorrow we will have to work on work stuff. We have a difficult partial wrap for a cube van to complete by Tuesday and the install will not be fun. Good to have work though.

Averie's favorite... My little girl!!!

Indiana wins on a technicality. The factory was in in Indiana, the dealers had to buy them from the factory, therefore Indiana wins.

1st "new" topic I've done so excuse the mess. I just posted 5 pics to my gallery showing removal of my 854 steering wheel. I've been spraying (lightly) with Kano sili-kroil since 8/12 in case I needed it off. Used a 1" open end wrench under the wheel , a Craftstman 2 jaw puller, 1 1/4 in nut under the puller and a short 5/8 boxed in wrench to remove, came off like a charm. The secret was in the preparation.

...when you see the holiday arts and crafts come out. :occasion-santa:

I kinda have 2, like Bob I like the 701 almost everything on it is 701 only, and it was the first front engined small tractor WH built, second is my 603 because it also is a odd ball, just don't so much care for the Tucky in it, but I'm leaving it orig. now this is my fav. that I use, not hard but gets Snowblower, and plow duty, pulls a lawn sweeper, and cart, if I ever get the deck put back together I might even mow some with it, it is a franken tractor started as a 633, but now has a 8hp elect start Kohler, 8 speed trans, hyd. lift, 23x10.5 tires on 8.5 wide Cub wheels (they set the tires closer to the trans), head and tail lights,all with a rattle can paint job so if I scratch it no biggy.

One of my favorite...

i love all my Roundhoods and everyone of them is a favorite , & i have aquired a few more since i last posted on the thread here are my Roundhoods that i have to date

Thanks you guys......he was one proud boy tonight! Of course only being 3, his attention span didn't last long. He quickly moved over to the 522xi and was checking out the snow plow on it. Haha! @Matt......he has had some "slow" races with big sister already. Can't wait to put them on their own tractors and turn them loose I am sure Martin will appreciate the seat on this one........hey have a towel I can borrow???? :ychain:

I have to say Ohio. Within our little group around the Toledo area, maybe 20 guys, we have over 300 units. The biggest collection has over a 100, the second has close to 80 and third has around 50. A few of us are up around 20, down to 4 or 5. Most if not all tractors are from a fifty mile radius. I will have to admit not many pre 60 tractors around but from then on up there's a but load. The dealer that was down the road sold 360 in one year and it was not uncommon for them to sell over 200 a year.

Right now...I'd hafta say the heap big Tecumseh.

THOUGHT I MIGHT POST SOME PICS OF MY 953 OIL BATH AIR CLEANER. THE FIRST ONE IS HOW IT LOOKED ON THE TRACTOR. THE SECOND IS THE INDIVIDUAL PARTS RESTORED. THE THIRD IS THE PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED UNIT. AND THE LAST IS THE REPRO DECALS. THE 1054'S AND 1054A'S BOTH ALSO USED THIS SAME STYLE AIR CLEANER. MARK. CLICK ON PICTURE TO ENLARGE.

:text-yeahthat: Jake :text-goodpost:

:wwp: :wwp:

what is everyone using for fluid in their front end loaders. 10w30 or atf? i believe mine is an ark 550.

I'm pretty sure it's Indian for "great guy" Must be I have a "little Tecky" in me still Jeeze...don't start talkin' all crazy on me now...based on your history, you better stick with them Kohlers. :occasion-santa:

or that all time best seller "Colonoscopy and you" from Annals of Proctology volume 3, Sept 2011

Even though I'm a Packer Fan!!!!!! :) Thanks Steve! :bow-blue:

Mower deck identification is my project this winter. I have been needing to compile a complete list of all the mower decks used on Wheel Horse tractors for the first 40 years. I have replicated most of the decals but without knowing exactly what decals each deck model had from the factory it is impossible to provide accurate kits for our members who are rebuilding their decks. If you have a deck with legible graphics and could post close up pictures of all the decals on it with the model number and year of tractor it came with I can organize (not one of my better skills) and list those kits for our members. Been needing to get started on this for a few years and this is the winter to do it. All help in this matter will be greatly appreciated. For example the attached images are from the 42 inch side discharge deck on a 1969 Electro 12

T, if you have no major external leaks, the troubleshooting becomes a matter of how much work is involved in checking out the two possible suspects (lift cylinder or the control valve). The "tools" needed to troubleshoot become more expensive than the fix. The control valve is easier to rebuild than the cylinder but the control valve is much more difficult to access and remove from the tractor hood stand area. One method to save time / money / aggravation would be to remove the lift cylinder from the tractor and take it to a hydraulics shop to have it tested. If it tests OK, your control valve could be the culprit. If you really want to get into isolating the guilty party for the sake of learning or familiarizing yourself with hydraulics,start with the lift cylinder. Raise the plow blade or mower deck to max height and block it up so it remains elevated. Remove both hoses from the lift cylinder. Plug both the inlet and outlet port ON THE CYLINDER with appropriate block off fittings. Remove the blocking for the blade or mower deck. The accessory may initially move a bit due to air trapped in the cylinder caused by removing the hoses. If the blade or mower deck floats to the floor, the cylinder has a significant leakage past sealing o rings internal to the cylinder. If the blade or deck remains elevated, the cylinder passes the test and the control valve will need to be inspected / rebuilt. http://www.nhc.ru/pa...da3a928ec694d41

Matt, As all ways I enjoy seeing and reading about your little engines. You have the talent and it shows, great job!! krazy_horse

I have to agree with Sparky, 701 and 702. But for working I love my two 417A's so for my other two picks would be 85 and 86 417-8's Great power with much better fuel economy the a 520.

I'm doing all I can over here, to put NY on the map too.

I'm pretty sure it's Indian for "great guy" Must be I have a "little Tecky" in me still :jaw:

I am gonna switch out the halogen bulbs on the 520-H (I think they were a OEM upgrade for the 520, not sure) with the PAR 36 LED's and see how they do. I think the Cool white LED as opposed to the Warm white will light up snow better. still thinking of a light bar but w/o snow cab...would need to do some sort of hood quick disconnect clamp. V

oops forgot this one

I just enjoy restoring these old engine. I have 9 old Brigg engines right now, rangeing from 1939-1952. I am planning on building an old air compressor out of one, and maybe an old go kart out of another. I would really like to get an old Bolens, and David Bradley walk behind garden tractor that these little engines originally came on. Matt :flags-texas:

I downloaded the .pdf file, sent it to my el cheapo black & white, 2-sided printer, and made a wonderful calendar that I can either staple the edge or punch a few holes, stick some paper clips through the holes and hang it up. Even it black and white it is a good looking calendar. Can't wait for my full-color printed copy to arrive from Mike.

Looks great matt!

It is a requirement, "No Horses are allowed in the barn alone. Every WH must have company." The more the merrier! Remember what happenned to Guy Fawkes and don't ever forget it!

I like the Suburbans myself! They aren't rare to the point that you can't change things up on them and have some fun!

Is this a new problem with a tranz that was OK before, or did you receive it this way? It could be anything from bad rust to a bent fork and/or rail to who-knows-what. I don't even try to guess from the outside. They get removed and split so I can see exactly what I'm dealing with. :handgestures-thumbup:

Any wider and you'll need a jar of Vaseline!! :) :teasing-poke:

So far I am liking my 854 Best, I got it in a Trade with Indywh http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh89/clemedc/Garden%20Tractors/854/012.jpg"]http://

my favorite would have to be a 704. It was my first wheel horse tractor but beside that, i like the hood rounded in the rear as opposed to the gas tank on the center console. I'm honestly not sure why i ever sold it. it had some issues and i had gotten other round hoods since so it seemed like a good idea. would love to find another some day.

LOL...that looks like the bong he was smoking in the sixties.

here is a little inspiration for you. Me and another guy from work built this for a work project (yeah, they gave us money to build this) for a competition. We never ended up racing it as it was too dangerous. We hit upwards of 40 miles per hour with 2 more gears to go. It has a suzuki ts250 motor and a rear axle from a honda ATV. The frame was originally from a parts 753. front axle and steering and all the rest is custom fabricated by me. Fun little machine and it was fast!

Welcome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that you have ONE you'll soon find another and that they multiply quickly. You have found the right place to help you deal with it though.

Thank guys, here are a few more pics. Yes TT , Jim had the lights installed before taking deliv. when he purchased it new. He also replace the seat with a newer genuine Wheel Horse seat, so I would really like to find a original seat. I also have ALL the original paperwork and maint. records since day 1, Not pictured is the original mower deck which is in beautiful, near perfect condition. I will be ordering decals from Terry very soon. Thanks again guy's.

Nice, just make sure she is buckled for safety lol. I don't know about you but Wisconsin has a seat belt law. Don't want to see red and blues in rearview. Ruin the whole picture and view.

Here is the '72 wiring

hi SOI, OK- some progress. With all 3 wires removed from the RR. Measured steady 32VDC across the wires from stator at 3600 RPM. VDC varies directly w/RPM ,VDC and max's at 32-34 Good news-stator OK. Measured from wire to B+ lug to ground with engine not running and switch in run position. No voltage. Bad news no continnuity (sp) thru switch to battery. Put stator wires back on RR lugs AC. Measured from B+ lug on RR to ground , and got only .1-.2 VDC. Checked RR resistance from heat sink to neg battery. Good ground. Bad news RR has no output. probably fried. Will now remove gas tank to check wiring thru switch to battery. BTW, I checked el-cheapo on new F-150 battery. 15.3 @ 0 rpm and 17.4 @ 1000 rpm. Also checked house voltage 148 VAC. VOM reading ~ 20% high. Will get new VOM ASAP. Conclusion: Stator OK RR fried Switch or wire problem from RR output to battery. Switch is a 4 posotion off , run/acc , run , start. Any diagram/advice for checking this ? Will wait for your comments, corrections. Tks SOI, Ed

Good thread! I had a charging issue with my newly acquired 1990 416-8. I followed "Save Old Iron" tips and found the issue to be at the 9 pin connector. It was the black wire w/ red stripe witch connected to the red wire that feeds the B terminal on the regulator. Thanks Save Old Iron

David, Stop the engine and place the ignition key in the run position. Measure DC volts at the B+ terminal of the rectifier / regulator unit. You should read battery voltage at the B+ terminal. This step assures you have a good electrical connection between the rectifier / regulator and the battery thru the ignition switch. Battery volttage should also be present at the "B" terminal of the ignition switch and (in the run position) the "R" terminal of the ignition switch. If you do not measure battery voltage at the B+ terminal, we will have to troubleshoot wiring to the RR unit or possible issues with the ignition switch. If all this works out OK, measure the AC voltage between the two AC terminals on the rectifier / regulator unit. You should measure in excess of 30 VAC with the engine running at 3/4 throttle or above. If you measure below 30 VAC, we may have an issue with the stator assy.

Ok guys, be patient, i'm trying to post a pic & never done it..

I like all of mine and have a total of 15 but I would say my favorite is the one on the top left a 701 with HY2 installed with BugeYes this tractor is presently tore down in restoration mode. 2nd would be my 704 (not shown) and kinda a toss up with all the other RJ's.