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Seeing there has been a surge of interest lately in tachometers on tractors, I thought I might ask the group what importance do you place on having a tachometer. If you feel knowing engine speed is important, what are the RPM range(s) that concern you the most? and under what conditions? Of course 3500 to 3600 governed speed is important and I imagine folks may possibly want to know what speed the tractor is idling at, but beyond that, what other speeds, if any, would be of interest. I'm just doing a little market research for building a digital tachometer that could either read RPMS with digits, use an LED bargraph display or just light up an dashboard LED if the engine over revs past expected governed speeds. Thanks

Dont mean to highjack this thread but here is a pic of my RJ35 , I just bought this tractor from US and is now awaiting shipping to UK

I think it was Kelly that suggested this once in a thread, but I have never read about anyone actually doing it. I think I'm done with my tiller for the year, so I decided to remove the tine assemblies to replace a leaking seal, and maybe if I can find the motivation, a look at the chain and bearings. The side where the seal was leaking slipped off just fine (what a surprise huh?) but the assembly on the other side was stuck solid. Kevin (KPinNC) showed years ago a puller he fabbed up and I was going to do that, but first I wanted to try something quick and easy. Let some PB Blaster soak in for an hour or two, pulled the two pins that hold the assembly on, drop the tiller on the ground, engage the PTO and in 5 seconds the axle was spinning inside the tines. Lift the tiller back up and slide off the tine assembly. Doesnt get much quicker than that!

the rat did not go where i intended it to but heres a pic of it with more to come.

Still looking good Matt! I wish I had your painting skills.. :bow-blue:

I've got some wild garlic that comes up in my yard that the deer avoid like the plague.

Hi All, Thanks Matt, Zeek, Lars, Mark, Jake and Neil - Yes, the Steering wheel is very comfortable (and there's plenty of belly room). The smaller diameter should not need any more effort to turn than the original (I never turn them unless the Tractor is moving). Should be very easy when I change over to Skinny Wheels and Tri Ribs later and put a Suicide Handle (or Brodie) on it. So, after playing with a Pencil and Ruler as mentioned in my last post, I made up the platework and machined angled faces of the 35mm square support posts for my replacement Fender support bracket. I'll be bonding a full length Rubber pad on , rather than the 2 Buffer Pads as on the original- I then had to learn to use my Welder. Over a couple of days and 3 Welding Rods later, the traditional test of whacking the trial joints with the biggest hammer I could find, proved resistant, so I went for it and laid the four important beads on the stressed (tension) side of the Bracket. With the seat adapter plate in place, I could fit the seat and trial fit the Bracket before welding up the front unstressed (compression) joints. Not fitting Springs yet, I prefer a low seat direct fit, as I'm only about 70kgs (155lbs) soaking wet with no back problems. Added the usual chrome plastic edging strip where I tend to lift the Fender up- It fits perfick and flush. So the Fender is now has about 4lbs of steel added and strengthed it enormously. As for the Seat Latch, the old original one was really tatty and the wire stop was missing, so I made new ones, The Latch now has a much larger Jaw and a smooth closing action. I'm still going to add a second safety catch using the vacant hole seen in the pic below- So, apart from cleaning up the underside of the rear Fender and checking the Earth (ground) for the rear light, I can tick this off the list- Before I go too far with the back end, I have to make a Lift Cable Conduit and a Cable, so the first thing I have to do is work out the travel and clearance height of my primary Attachment, then it's carefully loosen the Tranny to Hoodstand bolts and gently jack up the Frame to get the Cable Conduit in and clamped down. When I think back to seeing all the damage/dents in the back of this Fender and wondering if it would be better to find another, it's amazing what you can do with an assortment of hammers, bits of wood, a few 'G' clamps and lumps of steel if you put your mind to it Now at the point where I have just 'Odds n Sods' to finish off or sort out, so pretty soon, I might just be tempted to throw in some fuel, prime the system and turn the key....it's nearly 2 years since this Tractor was wheeled into my garage. Patience is a virtue !. Regards.

Those are pretty nice Matt. I just love those little old vintage Briggs. The N's the 5's and 6's.... they're so freakin simple and probably more bulletproof than our beloved K181s. But you're right... the old stock parts are getting harder and/or more expensive to get. So many of them though are just like your 47... clean and gap the points, give it a new spark plug and make sure the carb is clean. Fire it up and go! Thanks for sharing. :thumbs:

Well Craig, the one in this thread that I'm restoring right now will just be for show, with the occasional start up. The ones in the videos, as well as 2 others I have need a use. I was thinking about a self powered reel moxer for the back of Danny's Bantam, which I think would be cool, because they used these N's on the Bantam Jr. I'm also wanting to build an old vintage looking air compressor with one. So I'm still working on coming up with something. Rebuild the engine is always my favorite part of any restoration, so it just made sense to start restoring engines. Matt :flags-texas:

Great deal Charles! perhaps you can get it running and bring it to the Big show next year!

Nice work as usual Matt, what are your plans for these little works of art?

How about now? Matt Here is the 53 NP http://youtu.be/DpBX06a6mYM Here is the 47 NP, but it wasn't quite running right in this one so I adjusted the carb, and took another video. http://youtu.be/kQLAOphAtk4 Here is the 47 NP running better. Matt http://youtu.be/aOBGsepaxjo

Thanks,and here are a few before, and after pics of the engines I've already finished. The first 6 are my 53 model NP, and the second 6 are my 47 NP, but the one I'm working on currentley will be the nicest of the bunch. Matt :flags-texas:

Absolutely! We have a few dates available in October.

I got my block back from the machine shop today, as it had rust in the cylinder, and required a .020 overbore to clean it up. I'll try, and get some pics of it tomorrow. I rebuilt the carburetor as well, and I bought a product from the Eastwood company called Carb Renew, and I really like the way it brought this old carb out. This is a 68 year old carb, so its finish was nothing but a grayish silver color. In one of the pics, I have it sitting next to another carb just for a contrast. I love this stuff, although I don't know how durable it is yet, but the Eastwood Company makes good stuff. Matt :flags-texas:

Here are a few pics of some of the parts after paint. You'll notice in one of the pics I had painted my ID tag silver since all but the stamped numbers were faded away, but I have since found somone who reproduces the original Briggs tags. I posted a sample pic here, but when mine gets here it will have all my original numbers on it. Matt :flags-texas:

I've spent the past few weeks getting everything in working order on the 5000 including new shoes. And I thought it needed some WH influence, so it has a modified RJ seat spring now too.

Man...who's got better luck than that Charles? I hope you've got Dad picking up your power ball ticket on his way home tonight. Nice GT buddy, good luck with it.

Here ya go, maybe you can pick out the right year an pic from this site. I had a 64 landlord ( the bigggest one) back when and it was made for monkey wards an called a squire. Same swivel style of frame on the bigger ones also. It helped the scalping problems a lot by having the frame swivel like that. My brother bought it new in 64 an gave it to me in 70. I found a tiller an sickle bar for it a week or so later. Took the mower deck off, tried the sickle bar, was neat, finally put the tiller on an left it there until I sold it a few years later. Made more $ back then tilling gardens than you could shake a stick at. The way the linkage on simps. are, you can pull back on the lift bar an put down pressure on the rear attachment if needed. With that I could till a bed of rock hard dirt an have powder on the second go round. I always dropped that rear little cover on the tiller the second time round to keep the dirt in there grinding it up real fine. Which I have since found out that you can get the dirt to fine also. http://www.simpletractors.com/Main/simplicity.htm

I've got one of those little tractors, I have wheel weights and chains, rear doughnut weight, mid grader blade, front blade, snow blower, mower deck, yard trailer, and it's all for sale.

I think that you could do that. Just make a drawing of all of the connections and/or take digital photos of the thing before you start. You decide whether you can do it or not, I just wanted to jump in and say that the engine is a lot heavier than it appears! Do not drop it on your foot.