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picked this up for $100 ,needs a new hood and seat along with tlc. any ideas what it is?

Did some cleaning and re-arranging to my herd. Left to right is the 308-8, 520H '97, 520H '92... I just had to share. Next is to put up shelves and a few tools on the pegboard.

99% of the WH steering wheels will fit, I'm sure I have one for you, not a correct wheel but one that will fit, but I will not be able to look till first of the week I'm swamped with the show here in MI. and parts others have asked for. Send me a PM I'll check as soon as I can.

Nice work so far. BTW---I have a W/H battery box avail. If interested, PM me on it.

Randy Newman - Let's Burn Down The Cornfield: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtVRoFqBxbE

Looks like Brother Martin will be makin it here tomorrow. So maybe i can start tellin some lies by the campfire! prolly hafta break out a QT of apple juice and wash em down with some Brats............ Wait a minute I think I have that turned around....... oh well Im in the bag and going to bed thing I burnt up to many Pic Nic tables and the paint or stain offa them got to me! ~Duke

:party: Happy B-Day Matt!

Something totally different... http://www.fark.com/vidplayer/7238615

Are you looking for a show type finish or a just a little spruce up? It doesn't sound like you are replacing the tires so why go thru all the trouble paying a tire shop to dismount and mount your tires if you can't do it yourself just for some fresh paint? Just mask them off and save your money for something you really need, where I live they don't do this service for free. I don't pay someone else to do a thing on my tractors, if I need to replace all the tires I'm doing it myself. If the rims and tires are in pretty good shape just get r done. I do wish I knew of a place to have sandblasting done at a reasonable cost. I used to do my own sandblasting but that is a real messy job! I do wish I knew of a place as well to do power coating at a reasonable cost. I would only have the rims done probably. I like to do my own painting.

"Bad cow puns." Cows With Guns:

OK...do that thing with the volume again.

R.I.P. http://youtu.be/mEV4Tov1GBM

http://youtu.be/-XyTpENuoCI

I believe the 1054 and 1054A use K241S-46215A 47176 is a 12hp K301. Noticed this is wrong in service bulletin 301E. Garry Should have added the 34661 is a 1963 serial number.

They both use a kohler k241 engine but the spec number is different so if you still have the kohler tag with the spec number you can tell that way....Spec. 46135A is a 953 / Spec 47176 is a 1054

I have not ran in to this problem with a Kohler K series engine before, and am bewildered: I’m getting ready to put new rings in my K181, and was checking the end gaps in the freshly deglazed standard size cylinder. (Every ring pushed in to same spot in cylinder, about an inch down with a used piston.) I have 3 sets of new rings, 2 are aftermarket that I had sitting around, and I bought a NOS set of genuine Kohler rings because I thought the aftermarket ones couldn't be right. On all 3 sets the same thing is happening- The oil and 2nd scraper ring measure end gaps of ~.012-.015â€, which is acceptable for a refinished cylinder. (Kohler states .027 max.) The problem is the top compression ring. On every set it is a chromed ring, and the end gap measures .020-.022â€, significantly bigger than the other 2 rings. Are they purposely making the chrome top rings that way for some reason, and if so why? What to do? Do I ditch the chrome ring and use a scraper ring as the top ring for lesser end gap, or just use the chrome ring as its end gap is still within the tolerance? (And for amusement only, why do I always seem to have stupid problems like this?) -Mark-

Surprised no one has taken the trip down to Georgia in this thread yet.....wheres the love for the Allman brothers?????

Research the thread I had going asking for help with my 417. There is wealth of information there from other members who got me through my problem. The reason your engine quits running after 10 minutes is because the battery is discharging. Do not overlook the ignition switch. Your engine can start, and run with a bad ignition switch, but can not prompt the voltage regulator to charge if there is not 12volts coming from the ignition switch to the DC terminal of the regulator. Also make sure your regulator is properly grounded. You will need a good volt/ohm meter to troubleshoot this problem you are having. If your stator is not producing proper AC voltage then it is time to pull the flywheel off. So the first thing to do is find what voltage you are missing, AC or DC, then go from there.