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I saw an add on craigslist about a suburban. So I showed the link to the breakfast club members (aka the guys always on chat). With enthusiasm they said I am out of my mind if I don't go get it. (AKA Stevebo) So I sent the guy an email immediately after I saw it on craigslist anyways. Everyone thought I was too late until I got a call from the guy who owned it in the morning the following day. Unfortunately I could not leave to work to go get it. So I asked the nice man who owned if he would hold it until later that night. And I went and picked it up. The price was most certainly right. Has the deck and plow. It came with all of the guards, mower belt guard, exhaust heat shield, and the trans belt cover. The engine unfortunately though being original has a broken connecting rod. Oh and it has something else. They are quite rare from what I hear, check out the last picture. Unfortunately, due to my current situation, I am not keeping it. I am passing it along to another fellow member who along with his son CANNOT wait to get it. Hopefully he will enjoy it along with the other round hoods he has. I will let him reveal himself if he so chooses too. However I am keeping the things in the last picture. ENJOY -Charles BUT LETS NOT FORGET ABOUT THESE! (Sorry Craig [ amcrules00 ], I am keeping these too. =] )

So the Commando 8 is this years show model..... That happens to be my first tractor I ever purchased (at 13 no less)... I still have it and I got it autographed by Cecil at the 2008 Show, It will be making an appearance at this years show as a sign of tribute. I also have 5 others all needing restoration. I pulled the best two out of the five and am going to get them running and bring them for my kids to putt around on and to get the Commando 8 numbers up. I might haul my 877 too which is in the pic.... Can't wait to meet up with everyone... Tony

Swapped and got the 58 I wanted.Need a couple goodies for it hope I can pick up at the show next weekend.Its gonna give me the excuse I need to clean off my lift and spend some time on it this winter.I love my Ranger but this little mower is on the round pedestal!I will need a recoil unit,belt guard and heat shield.Show items?The one thing that amazes me is the tires aren't even dry rotted!!

NO you can't use the tractor hydralics for the loader. Those are not ports there the relief valves, there set to low for a loader Instead of changing the pump just add another D 250 Duane

Probably see the best results by cleaning it really good and then redying it black. 3M makes a really good vinyl re conditioner you could use on it then, to get it pliable again.

Like Doc Wheelhorse I too have been getting ready for the big show. Ken B stopped by today and we wrenched on some horses for a while.... Here are some pics of a few I may bring.. I am still a bit undecided as to which ones to bring as space is limited...

I may leave the new Rat at home and bring a "well loved 35"

I WENT TO A AUCTION TODAY. I BID ON A 91 520H TRACTOR TODAY WITH 815 HRS 60" DECK. ORIGINAL OWNER HAS PASSED AWAY. THE MOTOR WAS LINAMAR LX790 10955H. WHEN DID ONAN SELL TO CUMMINS AND MOVE TO CANADA FOR MANUFACTURING THIS ENGINE? I THII DIDN'T WIN THE TRACTOR I BID TO $875 AND QUIT. IT SOLD FOR $900. TRACTOR RAN GREAT AND HAD A NICE DECK. THE HOOD WAS CRUNCHED IN THE FRONT,TACH DIDN'T WORK ,TIRES HAD SOME DRY ROT AND THE TRACTORS FRAME FOR THE FRONT SEAT MOUNT WAS CRACKED.

I found this aerator today for 5 bucks

Well she's finally back together and more importantly... work. here's a few final pics with not yet finished deck. I used it this week to cut some grass. all went well. Due to the recent TSC no longer carrying Valspar post i thought a few pics of Rustoleum on my raider with NO special equipment at all (spray cans), might be helpful. Will be keeping my eyes open for next project.(hopefully a round hood) we'll see!!!! KEN

1956 R-J 35 1957 R-J 35 1958 R-J 58. Picked up two Pond walkers.

Ok, here is a video of Big Red just taken today. And his exhaust seat didn't pop out either.

The 633 looks great! It is a nice surviving original tractor. Keep it original! They are a unique model. I am also getting an original 633 sometime this summer. Good luck with all of them! Clay

kohler doesnt mention sae 30 in that command engine manual, but it is mentioned in the older engine manuals...... it was recommended for temps above 30 deg f. i think we are all talking about different engines here. mostly the opinion for the majority of older kohler engines is sae 30 from what ive heard..... my experience is the straight oils work much better in the k series engines, especially tired stuff like most of us have......

After trying many many brands, I found "Meguiar's Protectants" give the best and longer lasting results in replacing the original oils and softness in vinyl and rigid plastics (like the seats, trim, steering wheel, knobs, hub covers & grips). Like Scott said, it takes many applications, especially if it has been 30 or more years of time & sun drying them out. Just using a dye only helps soften a little; on your 'extra nice' seat, I would wipe Meguiar's on every time you finished using it, until the seat softens, and then once every few months. Glen Pettit

Well I always say clean and full, no matter what you put in it, is better than low and dirty.

I'd make a new post in electrical if you can't find the problem. Also check with SOI at this sight-http://saveoldiron.47.forumer.com/index.php Glad you got the hydraulics working. That was a good deal on your tractor. You'll have it straightened out in no time!

I'll throw in my humble 8hp turning a 42" deck. it's not a big block or 20hp, but lets keep that a secret, because it thinks that it is

In the past I have brought restored machines... this year it is the original theme....

Bring em all Steve....those little nut-roasters dont take up much room. Mike...........

The 35s and the walkbehinds came from the same guy. The 58 was a craigslist item. Just contacted a guy and there will be 2 more Rj 35s comen in this comen weekend i beleive that puts us up to 80 tractors

I had a simular problem wit my 314-8, does it start sometimes? or nothing but the clicks. My 314-8 would click, and if I tried repeatedly it would eventually start. ( replaced soloniod fixed problem, I could cross it over and it acted like it was working like yours) Found a universal soloniod at the auto parts store for $12.00, yours is 18 years old probally need replace anyway. if it just clicks, remove the starter, clean starter, clean connections, try again, if no fix, THEN start looking at wiring problems. If it is full of oil, Replace the soloniod, I think that will fix it.

Careful with that wiring diagram, guys... Roanoker494, did the one you uploaded come from one of your 1985 manuals? If so (and I'm no expert), I'm guessing it's probably not the same as the diagram for a 1994 model. I'll let someone more qualified than me address the "no start" problem. And willc307, :WRS:

on the axle seals, i think one seal would be adequate. i would only use two if the axle was worn from where the original seal was. if you were going to install two, best way to install is both the same way as per original. installing one of those seals backwards would be very hard without damaging it and the seal wouldnt work as intended. its designed to go in the normal way, the lip on the seal is shaped to seal on the inside more. as far as the bearings go, maybe try and find some good used for the nla ones. i cant really comment much on the motor. theres a few threads of late on here about rebuilding, all i can suggest is to do some reading and maybe somebody here can come to the rescue again with hard to obtain parts. hang in there, im sure enough members here can get you going in the right direction.....

I got the tires mounted, and I like em! Matt :flags-texas:

Nice, like the cherry on.............................the bottom.

No, but I'm all ears. :ychain:

Well this is about the final post showing construction. once you have the angle bent you are ready to attach it. Two ways come to mind. 1.Clamp it to the guard and drill 1/8 holes through both pieces. You could then Pop rivet both together. Or 2. Weld them. I chose to weld them as I had the mig. A spot welder would be ideal. A tig would be great too.Be sure to clamp the pieces tightly so the weld will penetrate. Also be sure the parts are clean. Okay, Here are the pics and I welded the bottom "tab" of the rear angle first and then mounted the guard on the tractor to check belt clearance. then finished welding it. Ok if you are building this and made it this far, Congratulations!! Your idler works! Go till some soil! I'll be following this up with a complete list of parts and the full-size scan of the guard .I still need to sandblast and paint my tiller mid mount idler assembly.

I'm picturing an 8" stretch, 6" wider and 4-5" lower, racing cart wheels and tires, a 3 1/2" trans pulley and an open gov.