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Thanks for the wiring diagram it will sure help , all I have to do is get a motor that hasn"t run in 40 years started !

Tom and I or getting ready for the next build of my 2" heavy duty hitch. We will be building 10 and going from there. It will be slightly different then the first time as I will be using 2" angle iron on the parts that attach to the axle to save time on the build. All of the bushings will fit the original wheel horse pin, and if you have a older 6 speed or 3 speed with the brake drum that is close to the axle tube you need to tell me so I can clearance them so they don't interfere with the brake. I have the receiver tubes on order and should be here by the end of the week. steel will be ordered soon and I plan on starting to put them together the weekend of the 18th. 2-3 days for the paint to dry and all should ship out by the 25th of Feb. They will be shipped through USPS Package services parcel. and shipping prices on the last build was any ware from $13 to $20 depending on how far you live away from me. The price for the hitch will be $100.00 and a extra $7 if you don't have a dozer blade-tiller mount for the extra plates and bolts in order for it to work. They will be primed and painted Red with Restoration series IH red from TSC. In order for me to build you a hitch I will need 50% down up front before a hitch will be made for you. You can pay for it all if you like, or just 1/2, that is your choice.I do take PayPal or personal check-money order, It will take up to 5 days for the check to clear if you pay with a check and I will not ship tell it clears. I do require you to contact me by phone, or send me your phone # so I can call you as I like to have a personal touch to the great people that I am selling these too. As I mentioned in the last build, I am a single father raising a 9 year old girl buy my self and work 10 hour days, So time is limited for me to work on these projects. She comes first and WH tractors come after that. As far as I know all the guys that have bought one of these hitches are very pleased and really like them. If your interested , or have questions, please PM me and I will answer them with asap. Here is some pics of the hitches I built on the last builds.

I went to my father's house today with some steel and we fabbed up a weight box to connect to Scott's (smoreau) custom hitch receiver. Dimensions are 12" X 12" X 20". Check it out...

Hi guys, I got a new horse today. It is a b80 4 speed,not sure on the year. I will post the serial numbers later tonight. I ended up going to look at a deere so I could figure something out on my 60 I am restoring. He knew I had a old yardman that he wanted and asked me If I was interested in trading it. I ended up getting this. Here is a picture,Jake

Hello everyone, I finished the resto on my b-80 awhile back, but during the process I realized my pto was shot, missing needle bearings, worn out clutch plate, etc. Well I used the link to the toro site here, and found that they do still sell these parts but the price. Well, I did'nt have that much cash to spare with all the other parts I was ordering for my horse, so I found a used one on :techie-ebay:in fair condition and that is what I have been using to date. I continued searching for a better price on the parts I needed to rebiuld my original, and I finally found the place. Its a place called Majestic Hardware on ebay majesticshardware255. Anyway I thought I would pass on the good new to anyone who needed these parts, these are real factory toro parts not aftermarket. The prices are as follows, needle bearing #106769 $15, ball bearing #106947&109842 $15, clutch plate #103140 $62. All these prices are far cheaper than ordering from toro. The replacement clutch has more clutch surface area than my original did, It contacts all of the machined area on the back of the hub,and not just 3/4 of it like the original did. Oh yeah he also combine shipping, it only cost $6 to ship.

terry (vinylguy) makes the decal to cover up that ugly dash..... http://www.redoyourhorse.com/servlet/the-159/BRUSHED-CHROME-DASH-DECALS/Detail

The 0140 is a 74 model, the first year same as mine.

heres numbers for most of the 3,4,6 and 8 speeds........ input 5/8......... 6105 input/brake 3/4.......... 7410 brake/axle 1......... 9815 axle 1 1/8......... 11050 these are c/r (skf) numbers, order through motion industries or napa.

Here are the pictures that show the difference on the amount of clutch surface area between the new replacement and the original. It's a big difference! Should have alot more holding power.

I have listed the 7 different decals in the web store so members can choose the one that they want or have on their tractor. http://www.redoyourhorse.com/servlet/the-256/PUSH-VALVE-DECALS/Detail One thing for sure with WH decals is you can never be sure. :eusa-think:

looking good duke. wheel weights look great. when they get blasted do you remove material on the inside where the weights contact the rim? to allow for the thickness of powder? or does the lead shrink enough to allow clearance? oh and the decals look awesome.... :thumbs:

Another excellent post by Chuck! Thanks for taking the time to enlighten us electrically challenged ones.

Those are some nice decals Duke! And nice job on the weights :handgestures-thumbup:

Ed, The quick answers, 230 CCA in good condition is fine for what we need and the tester is about $30 - $50 from places like Harbor Freight or on Ebay. The whole CCA issue does beg a conversation to fully understand what the rating is and how insignificant it is in our application. A 230 CCA claim is simply this - This battery can support a discharge of at least 230 amps for 30 seconds at a temperature of 0°F before the battery voltage drops below 7 volts. . Let's dissect that statement as it applies to our tractors. 230 amps - well sir - the little starter motor on a single cylinder engine is not going to draw more than 50 - 75 amps of current before suffering internal damage, so strictly speaking, the 235 current rating is actually OVERKILL. Yes, there are mods that can be done to an engine that require a car starter to crank it over even in warm weather, but lets stay with a stock engine discussion. 30 seconds cranking - something else needs to be looked at if it takes you 30 seconds of cranking to start the engine. 0 degrees F - that's cold - not the coldest I have personally experienced (-40F), but cold enough to prepare some alternate plans to better assure success in starting your tractor at this temperature. How about indoor storage of the tractor or a magnetic heater attached to the underside of the BATTERY - not the oil pan. And consider using an approved lighter weight of oil in the engine - you didn't leave the SAE straight 30 in there - did you? Heating the battery to a higher temperature will help start the engine much faster than heating the oil. Guess what the Chevy Volt does before it uses battery power on cold days ?- yep - fires up on gas , heats the batteries and then switches over to the battery power. Sooo... to make this CCA concept a little clearer. let's relate 230 CCA to water flow. This battery claims "I can pump 230 gallons of water starting at 12.6 psi and over the next 30 seconds the water pressure wil not drop below 7 psi.". You say "Hey battery manufacturer, I only need 75 amps for 10 seconds, maybe 20 seconds. OK, so I left the old SAE 30 in there from the summer. Can't you just put a simple label on a battery that tells me if your battery can do that?" The response has always been So the average guy, not knowing what all these numbers mean, starts to think bigger must be better. Hard to disagree with in some cases. But I digress. In this case, the CCA rating of the battery means NOTHING to Paul's starting problem. The condition of the battery (and wiring of the start circuit) means EVERYTHING. Back to the water analogy. We need a 12.6 psi pump that pushes out 50 to 75 gallons in 10 - 20 seconds. The battery manufacturer says he can do 230 gallons at over 7 psi for up to 30 seconds. Fair enough. This should get the job done. If we use a 230 "gallon" battery and pump out 50 "gallons", the engine starts. The charging system will then pump back in 50 "gallons" at a 15 "gallons" per rate (15 amps from the regulator unit). ** I have taken ALOT of technical liberties with this explanation but it does get the point across on how insignificant CCA rating can be in a single cylinder tractor application *** I can see all the astute students with their hands up already shouting "Wait. We have to pump from a reservoir and we don't know how full the reservoir is. Does it have 230 gallons in it? 75gallons? 10 gallons?" The only real way of testing the "level in the reservoir" is to put it to the test under actual operating conditions. In comes the load tester. The load tester places a known load on the battery and monitors the voltage of the battery while its under load. Here is a link to a test I did on a highly sulphated (old and ignored) battery. Notice the voltage starts at very near the 12.6 volt ideal level, but falls rapidly under a 50 amp load presented by the load tester. This particular battery charges back to 12.6 volts just fine, but just doesn't have the "staying power" or RC (reserve capacity) to power a 50 amp load for more than a few seconds. http://s880.photobuc...=Movie_0001.mp4 Why a battery goes bad and what can be done to prevent premature failure of a lead cell is a whole nuther conversation. Later dudes.

Love the decals and nice work on the weights. :handgestures-thumbupright:

I don't understand what the bolts are for. To hold the lead on rim?

I hitch the trailer up and take the three weiner dogs for a cruse

That is gonna look great Duke! Can't wait to see it done and in action.

That look on your face when you couldn't back up. Then the wiggle. :ychain:

This is off of my 857, Bob.

I remember too Kelly. sliding down the drift from my second floor bedroom window because you couldn't open the front door, the drift was so high. That was my senior year of high school in Buffalo, NY, I'll never forget that one either. People stranded on the thruway for days, trapped under overpasses by the drifted snow. IIRC, people were dying in their cars before they could be rescued. Those lake effect snow storms are incredible up there.

Glad we could help.

I'm happy this is coming together for you lars......and jealous of your Bromance with Rooster.......LOL

I got the engine cleaned up and painted and the gearbox for the sickle bar rebuilt and painted. Next I need to replace this tranny with the six speed and repaint a few engine pieces I messed up. There's still a long way to go but I think I have most of the parts on hand to finish this.

What a great thread guys. Helping out is what it is all about. :)

More RS members showing their true RED through! specialwheelhorse AKA Jim from The Colony Texas has DONATED a hood stand, a RUNNING K91 and some other misc parts to the project! Prater in Blanchard OK is opening up his home for us to meet at and get the parts! If you are in the OKC area and have nothing to do Saturday Afternoon....come out and shoot some Horse with us! Prosjekt Suburban Internasjonale traktorer på!

Hey Rooster: Been sitting here thinking I've got a real nice hoodstand I;ll probably never use and a whole benchful of K-91s and maybe a few other items I coild throw in. I've gone thru the 91s and they all run well. I spent some time in the service in Norway and the guys were great to us over there. How soon do you think it will take to get this box ready ? Maybe we could meet sometime about halfway to transfer goodies. Jim in the Colony Texas