1985 416-8

[gwgdog66 23]

I left about 1/2 inch clearance between the governer arm and the plate. I am new to these beasts so I hope the arm only travels towards the carb...Can someone clarify that for me?

1/2 inch clearance should be plenty of room. If it doesn't touch when you work it back and forth by hand you should be good. I honestly can't tell ya which way the govenor arm moves when it gets a load on it. I've always been in the driver seat with the hood closed when mine kicks in.

I'll make a point to check this weekend though.

[linen beige 14]

Mainly because my torch is in storage.

....that still leaves the area needing repair where the leaks have cut into the block.

I see said the blind man.

Betcha thought you'd never need that torch when ya stored it.

[Butch 194]

A little more work done tonight.

Is it just me or did you use a "rust filter" on your camera for this pic?

All the others look fine.

That hole saw cut through steel....on an angle no less? Wow!

What kinda hole saw blade?

[Prater 75]

Nope, thats rust and oil...Roof on the old shop was damaged in a storm and just about everything got wet, was a few weeks before I was back and found the damage. I dont have a shop at the new house so a lot of things are in a 15x50 storage unit...thats where I keep the big boat.

The bit is a DeWalt bi-metal hole saw. I kept it bathed in oil as it cut and just took my time.

[Sarge 3,462]

Just a tip-take it for what it's worth ....

Broken taps, hardened bolts , ect can be removed with a Dremel tool and a solid carbide burr or rotary drill cutter .

Ebay link

Ebay link

These types of cutters at the correct speed will bore through hardened steels better than anything I've found . Just be very careful as the are extremely brittle-any side load and they are gone-nothing will cut it out if it's stuck in the hole. I also use a carbide set of burrs in different shapes to finish removing stuck parts -works out great .

Sarge

[Prater 75]

A little more work today. Still waiting for my 1 1/4 tap so no tack welding until I know exactly where everything needs to be.

I cut my header pipe into two sections. The short section will be the base of the pipe and the long section may be used for the upper pipe. Still not sure if I want a turn out exhaust or get a taller straight pipe and put a rain cap on.

I also drilled recesses for the two bolts that are closest to the header. I am a bit worried that they will be some trouble getting tight. Hopefully the recess will help..

I then test fit the base header pipe

I then did a mock up of the upper header pipe with a turnout, I braced it against the cowl so I could take a pic. When its all done it will clear the cowl.

I need some input now. If you see something wrong now is the time to tell me. I like the turnout but worried its not tall enough and I will be getting exhaust in my face. The other issue with the turnout is getting a baffle installed. I will have to install it low on the pipe before welding into place. A straight pipe with a rain cap will definately be taller. I will stop by an old frineds muffler shop and snag some 2" straight pipe. I already have a raincap from TSC.

Let me know what you think...

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,040]

Looking good. You may want to go with the straight pipe and have the rain flapper facing forward so any exhaust will not be in your face. that 16 is a big motor ! Good luck. steve bo

[Prater 75]

Here are a couple of mockups with a straight pipe.

I taper tapped the adapter, but unforseen to me(stupidity) it will not spin on the block since the adapter is too big...so back to removing the broken bolt and tap.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Looks go tho even If you had to switch gears! nothing to be ashamed of everything is a trail and error process! I like the straight pipe with the flapper!

[WH854 44]

Aren't all big block kohler engines threaded on the inside 1 1/4" NPT. At least my K241 is it also has the two holes on the outside,couldn't you retap the inside and us it that way just my 2cents.

Chas.

PS It may be 1" NPT

[Prater 75]

I made a ring to go all the way through the adapter and into the 1 1/4 NPT threads on the head but I just could not get it tight enough for comfort.

So back to the most stubborn bolt I have ever come accross, I pretty much have it licked. I need to pick up a new tap and recut the threads.

I have cleaned the head with laquer thinner and filled the exhaust cuts with epoxy. I dont know how it will turn out but tomorrow I will file the head and make sure everything is flush. Then it will be time to drill the adapter plate with the two bolt holes for the head. This project has taken a lot longer than expected...

[Prater 75]

I hit the head with a file and flushed up all the burn spots, then tapped the hole back clean. I then cut two mounting holes in my adapter plate and countersinked for the heads of the bolts. The countersink drill bit gave me some trouble and did not cut as clean as I like but it worked. I will have exhaust going accross the bolts so I may research some grades of bolts to handle it.

Here is the adapter plate mounted

Then the attached flange. You can see the exposed bolt. I may just screw my pipe ring into it and direct the exhaust past into the larger pipe.

I then filed the cut flush and installed a hooker headers weld ring into my lower pipe

Now I still think about this pipe design with the exhaust turned out. If I dont like it I can always cut it off and install the flapper.

[gwgdog66 23]

"I may just screw my pipe ring into it and direct the exhaust past into the larger pipe."

Sounds like a good idea to me. Use some anti sieze compund on the threads incase you have to pull everything back off in 12 or 10 years :drool:

[Prater 75]

Just took a shot of the Horses in the garage...Have to take my header parts to a budy with a MIG welder now.

[Stigian 1,234]

:omg: You certainly have some great engineering skills there Steven

Are you going to brace the pipe to help keep it held up?

[Prater 75]

Yes, I will add a brace. I have an idea at the moment but until its welded up I cant really build anything.

[Prater 75]

The header is welded, and I did some porting to the adapter plate since I moved it off center a bit. Now I am off to get some gasket sealer. Going to try Ultra Cooper from Permatex first...

Now I need to figure out how I am going to make a support bracket. I also have a second pipe to build that will be muffled, this one is an open header...

[Prater 75]

I was looking through my paints and discovered some Ceramic Red 1200 degree paint that I used on my Corvette brakes. I never had an issue with the paint flaking off the brake calipers and I know they got glowing hot several times. I have 5 coats on the header and letting it dry. I will cure it in the oven at 300 degrees for 2 hours.(Just dont let my wife find out)

[gwgdog66 23]

How does it sound? :omg:

[Prater 75]

I will find out tomorrow...I am sure it will be loud. I have a 2nd pipe that I had my buddy at Muffler King bend for me to make with a muffler or baffle. I have a 16HP 13 fin block to build for it :omg:

[gwgdog66 23]

Cool Deal. I have a K341 block I need to get shortblocked. Are you having it done local?

[Prater 75]

I will be tackling it myself. Using a friends machine shop to install chevrolet valves and moving the bore over a bit...

[gwgdog66 23]

Good deal. Is your 16 a K series or a Magnum?

[Prater 75]

Its a K Series

[gwgdog66 23]

:omg: If your rebuild turns out good would you consider doing another one?? :drool: