Buzz 502 #26 Posted March 22, 2009 Hi, hope you're having better luck today. Here's a few things I've thought of to add to your confusion. 1/ The 854 needs good battery voltage to run. If it's cranking over and trying to start the battery probably has enough charge. To be on the safe side check with voltmeter. 12+volts when off, 13.5-14.2V when running wide open. 2/ Are the wires connected to the ammeter. somewhere in the back of my mind I remember something about not starting if one comes off. Easy enough to check. 3/ The ignition switch. That has me worried. Yours takes #4988 and is no longer available. It only had three terminals on the back; "B" went to the battery, "S" went to the starter/generator post nearest the front of the tractor, and "I" went to the "+" side of the coil. The switch you used has four. Switches might look similar but could be wired differently inside. You can bypass the switch and hot wire it by running a jumper wire from the "+" terminal of the battery to the "+" side of the coil. If it starts you know the problem is in the switch or wiring. You'll have to disconnect it to shut off the engine. 4/ I'd clean and regap the points and replace the condenser and put a new spark plug in it no matter how good it looks. Once you get it running we will work on the fuel problem. Here's the 854 manual with wiring diagram. http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wJjGSTpjqhNxS...or%201964%20854 If it doesn't open for you, join the first manuals group and download it from there. It's in the FILES section of that group. Here's the link: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals/ Here's your Kohler engine service manual http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf Good luck........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
past7971 0 #27 Posted March 22, 2009 Hey Buzz!!! Scott got ahold of me and I'll head up next weekend to help him. And Buzz--Dont go starting nasty rumors about me and scaring the poor guy half to death--- :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hounddoghundzsa 7 #28 Posted March 22, 2009 Hi, hope you're having better luck today. Here's a few things I've thought of to add to your confusion. 1/ The 854 needs good battery voltage to run. If it's cranking over and trying to start the battery probably has enough charge. To be on the safe side check with voltmeter. 12+volts when off, 13.5-14.2V when running wide open. 2/ Are the wires connected to the ammeter. somewhere in the back of my mind I remember something about not starting if one comes off. Easy enough to check. 3/ The ignition switch. That has me worried. Yours takes #4988 and is no longer available. It only had three terminals on the back; "B" went to the battery, "S" went to the starter/generator post nearest the front of the tractor, and "I" went to the "+" side of the coil. The switch you used has four. Switches might look similar but could be wired differently inside. You can bypass the switch and hot wire it by running a jumper wire from the "+" terminal of the battery to the "+" side of the coil. If it starts you know the problem is in the switch or wiring. You'll have to disconnect it to shut off the engine. 4/ I'd clean and regap the points and replace the condenser and put a new spark plug in it no matter how good it looks. Once you get it running we will work on the fuel problem. Here's the 854 manual with wiring diagram. http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/wJjGSTpjqhNxS...or%201964%20854 If it doesn't open for you, join the first manuals group and download it from there. It's in the FILES section of that group. Here's the link: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsetractormanuals/ Here's your Kohler engine service manual http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf Good luck........... Thanks Buzz! Ammeter connections look O.k. Tryed the jumper wire while turning the ignition and with it in the "off" position, still nothing. I'm going to get a new condensor within the next few days. I can't seem to find my volt meter so, still working on that one. As far as the ignition issue - I was not able to locate one exact to the original, so I got the closest one I could find. It did work at first.... What are the reasons for a condensor going bad? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buzz 502 #29 Posted March 22, 2009 Dont go starting nasty rumors about me and scaring the poor guy half to death--- Rumors aren't rumors if they're true,,,,,,,,,, Run like the wind Scott, run like the wind. :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hounddoghundzsa 7 #30 Posted March 22, 2009 3/ The ignition switch. That has me worried. Yours takes #4988 and is no longer available. Does anybody have one of these and a push button lying around???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 14 #31 Posted March 23, 2009 What are the reasons for a condensor going bad? A condensor is a capacitor used to condense the spark that tries to jump the open point gap. Capacitors could be described as batteries that charge and discharge very quickly. Like all batteries they just don't last forever. Heat is one of their biggest enemies. They can also seem bad if they are not grounded well. Sometimes removing one, polishing the case and retightening it into it's mounting bracket can get them working again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
.5racer 14 #32 Posted March 23, 2009 Was wondering as I reread you question ,,, You stated you REPAINTED and the motor dies after a min or so , remove gas line and runs again for a while...... Was wondering if the gas cap VENT is pluged , causeing a vacume in the tank. Have seen this happen in a race car many a time and those have a high vol pump.... :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hounddoghundzsa 7 #33 Posted March 24, 2009 Was wondering as I reread you question ,,, You stated you REPAINTED and the motor dies after a min or so , remove gas line and runs again for a while...... Was wondering if the gas cap VENT is pluged , causeing a vacume in the tank. Have seen this happen in a race car many a time and those have a high vol pump.... No, thats a different tractor (My 701), Pretty sure it's not the cap. It does leak a little oil from under the starter (flywheel) shield. Sorry for the confusion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hounddoghundzsa 7 #34 Posted March 24, 2009 They can also seem bad if they are not grounded well. Sometimes removing one, polishing the case and retightening it into it's mounting bracket can get them working again. .........Still plugging away. I went and spent the six bucks and crossed my fingers hoping that was the problem - of coarse that would have been too easy! So, my quest for a running 854 continues................ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dkopp 1 #35 Posted April 1, 2009 Here is something that I've seen only once and it baffled me. I had a good running engine one minute and the next it didn't even fire. It has to do with timing. I once had an engine partially shear the aluminum key that connects the crankshaft to the flywheel. That is your fist link in the timing chain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hounddoghundzsa 7 #36 Posted April 3, 2009 :omg: For all of you with curious minds my 854 IS FINALLY RUNNING! Paul came out last Sunday and we discovered the problem was a stuck valve. Over the next couple of days and some PB Blaster I got it moving again and she fires right up time after time. We came to the conclusion that when I got her going the first time, it might have loosened some rust up. When I shut it off the rust settled down in the cylinder. So, when I went to start it the next day the valve wouldn't move. Thanks again to all of you for your help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Suburban 550 28 #37 Posted April 4, 2009 Good to hear you got it goin'. :omg: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites