rmaynard 14,898 #26 Posted April 13, 2018 (edited) Yes. I'll get a picture later. Though it's difficult to see, the arrow is pointing to the factory weld on the guide, and the position is the same as fortyeightjake's. Edited April 13, 2018 by rmaynard add picture 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fortyeightjake 7 #27 Posted April 17, 2018 On 4/13/2018 at 6:01 PM, rmaynard said: Yes. I'll get a picture later. Though it's difficult to see, the arrow is pointing to the factory weld on the guide, and the position is the same as fortyeightjake's. Interesting, I ended up throwing the old belt back on as the grass was already starting to get thick and it shifts just fine with the old belt. I think I might try to mow the bigger portion of the yard with the new belt to see if it will work in a little bit before cutting anything up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,782 #28 Posted April 17, 2018 (edited) I wrestled with this problem for years on a 1067 till I a did a complete resto on the tractor and found a belt that worked. I know my belt stop on the clutch pulley was welded on in the same position as yours. The tabs up by the engine pulley were worn down like yours so I welded them back up to original and filed them smooth. I'll see if I can get you the belt length that I used. Think it was a 76" ?? More food for thought here Jake but the brake band adjuster if adjusted too tight will limit the travel of the idler pulley. Edited April 17, 2018 by WHX16 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fortyeightjake 7 #29 Posted April 17, 2018 Yes Jim, 76" is what length both of my belts are. I have the brake band nut as as loose at it'll go and still have enough range to stop the tractor. I even loosened it further but it made no difference in pulley movement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
