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Mastiffman

06-42st05 Snow Thrower Restore Started...

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Was just going to replace the bearings and make a new chain to this thing but after pulling off the drive shaft... Yeah, it needed it and was started. 

 I ordered a decal kit from redue your horse for it. 

 I want to use a 2 part epoxy clear coat on it after the Rustoleum Regal Red is cured for a couple of weeks. Would this be okay? I was thinking of the 2 part clear 2k by I believe "Spray-on" brand.. .

Would that be fine to do?

 

 Another question, why was there a zerk fitting for the drive shaft bearings if they are not serviceable to begin with?

Edited by Mastiffman

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9 hours ago, Mastiffman said:

 Another question, why was there a zerk fitting for the drive shaft bearings if they are not serviceable to begin with?

Don't know what you mean.

The bearings are a self-aligning type and will also fit in a cast iron housing to mount them. The bearing OD is machined to fit inside a sphere with a hole in the outer race so grease can get to the balls.

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My Zerk Fitted Flanges for relube don't cover the bearing. They only hold it in place... 

 

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The partstree diagram shows there being a full bearing side cover flange with a zerk fitting that would make sense but when I do a quick search for the toro 110567 it shows mine that doesn't cover it. I'd really like to find the one that covers the bearing if they are out there. 

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Okay, So just not tried looking at the parts diagram for the Toro 2007 42" Snowthrower and the Zerk Relube Flange is the same part num (110567) and looks like these above. 

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They should be of 2 separate halves 1 with the zerk and the other without that does cover the bearing, just like I installed on my 2stage using the bearing retainers for a single, #7&8 from Partstree.com, Jeff.

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Edited by WVHillbilly520H
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Yeah when I look both of these parts up they are exactly the same as the one above except that the rear flange doesn't have the zerk fitting. Neight of them cover the bearing oil seal. 
 Even my old bearings had red paint on the oil seal....

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They don't cover the seal, like Gary said there's a hole drilled in the bearing outer race/shell which picks up the lube as it turns, the inner/center race which goes over shaft is locked on the shaft rotating the ball bearings which cause it to "drag" in the grease from the "clam shell" flange, hope this makes sense, that's why they are always such a greasy mess if lubed properly, Jeff.

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Ah. my mistake. I didn't catch that part of the comment. I'm not sure if the new bearings I got have that. I'll have to look. 

NOPE. These new ones don't have that hole. Going to return them. Wish I would have known that from the beginning... 

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I might try and figure out a way to make some paper gaskets for this to seal in the grease once I get the implement back together. 

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20 minutes ago, Mastiffman said:

Ah. my mistake. I didn't catch that part of the comment. I'm not sure if the new bearings I got have that. I'll have to look. 

NOPE. These new ones don't have that hole. Going to return them. Wish I would have known that from the beginning... 

Some people prefer "sealed for life" bearings over "relube" but IMHO on a snow thrower relube style because you can "push" the water out while regreasing...doesn't hurt to use "marine" rated grease either, Jeff.

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So far I have disassembled the entire thing. I have 98% of the outside of the housing stripped down to metal. I have a new chain already, new auger bearings, new idler sprockets, new drive shaft bearings and a new decal kit on the way. Will be replacing the old shoot collar washers and most nuts and bolts. 

I like the marine rate grease idea. 

 Won't the SFL bearings go bad eventually? 

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Last year I was in snow thrower overkill, a single tall chute on 1 520H another on a 520Xi ,a 2 stage on the anniversary 520H, and a plow on the 3rd 520H, Now down to the plow and 2stage plus the Mahindra good luck and happy snow chucking, Jeff.

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Good News, spoke to the seller and they do have the grease ready bearings and offered an exchange!

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Well the seller was also the same person that I ordered the idler sprockets from and when I accepted his offer on the exchange for the OEM version of the bearings, he then cancelled my order for the 2 idler sprockets. So I cancelled the order for the bearings and sent those back today. He said that I probably wouldn't think that the idler sprockets were worthy of the restore as well. lol- Oh well. Everything happens for a reason. 

SO, I ordered sprockets from someone else as well as the OEM NOS Bearings and collars. 

Here are some photos of the bare bones housing as I'm removing the rust from her... I was planning on removing the panels and paint them all separate so that I reassemble it with some nice new nuts and bolts for a detailed finish also. 

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I'm not real sure the best way to get into the tight spots right there without a sand blaster. Any tips fellas?

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I don't know what they heck the previous owner did to take these bites out of this steel but that must have been a loud one!?

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I ground it down on both sides and I'm going to weld it up and smooth it out.  You can see here that this bite pushed through to the other side. OUCH!?

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Have a couple of cracks to weld up as well. I'm thinking of putting the rubber scrapers on the auger to close any gap and send the snow out the shoot with a little more velocity. I will be at least hitting the interior of the auger housing and shoot with 2 part epoxy clear coat if not the entire thing... 

20171024_142755.jpg

More to come... Any tips are welcome as you guys always have something for me to think about. ;) 

 

Edited by Mastiffman

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Any comments on this question of mine?

I want to use a 2 part epoxy clear coat on it after the Rustoleum Regal Red is cured for a couple of weeks. Would this be okay? I was thinking of the 2 part clear 2k ?


Would that be fine to do?

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It's really dicey to use clear on modern paints , especially enamels as they keep changing the base solvents to meet EPA demands . I'd try to stay within the same brand family unless someone has tried it with success - otherwise you risk boiling the base coat and having to start over . For the rust in areas you can't reach I'd look into some of the liquid washes used to remove rust - naval jelly does work if you follow the directions closely or even acid - but do that well after all the welding is done . That area around the snout where it's mated to the housing is always a weak spot - I'd be tempted to cut a ring of sheet metal and add it over the snout for additional reinforcement to stop future cracks - they all did that .

 

It also looks like the wear bar is about shot or at least should be flipped over too...

 

Sarge

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2 Part epoxy has been put over Krylon fusion Ive read on some motorcycle forums. They were using to protect the paint against any fuel spills on the fuel tanks. 

 Wasn't sure if anyone had any familiarity with the 2 part 2k clear coat over other paints

 

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Okay, so this is the stuff that I had in mind. Fellas are using is over rustoleum with great results as long as the proper technique of sanding with 600-800 grit is done first before application over fully cured to manufacturers specs of base paint. 
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aerospraytm-high-gloss-matte-clear.html
 

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Okay, so I called Oreilly's Autoparts and they Permitex Gel Rust Remover. When they scanned it though when iwas on the phone with them they said it was registering as "Naval Jelly"... ;)

8oz for $9 sound right?

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Made some more progress this afternoon with things. Used a smaller wire wheel and some choice screwdrivers to get a little more of the rusty areas clean before using the Naval Jelly. 

 

Here are the two chute pieces... They had mismatched arches in the metal, the wrong mating fasteners and the bottom section was actually broke off and then reattached using rivets when I fixed with a screw and lock nut on one side. So that will have to fixed. Tomorrow...
They both were pretty rough on the inside and with a pretty sting wire wheel disc on my 4.5" Grinder I managed to remove 95% of the oxidized metal pumps. Rust. lol I plan on focusing on the inside of these two pieces to make them as smooth as possible for snow throwing. 
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I filled in the big gash in one that one side panel and ground it down to better looking finish.

BEFORE:
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AFTER:

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 INSIDE:

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I finished removing the rust from the inside of the housing, removed the top and side plates and wire wheeled them and then hit the three chute pieces... 

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 Other than the auger, I only have small stuff to clean up. Any suggestions on a less PIA way to clean up the auger? Or is it wire wheel and hand sanding time?
After the Auger this is all that is left... 
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I will probably replace that scraper bar. 

Question. I've always noticed that when I lifted the thrower it seemed to sit uneven. I now see that the lift bar pin is offset. Was that on purpose or another case like the lower steering shaft with the offset tie-rod plate?

 Would it be okay to cut it apart and reweld it centered?

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Almost every blower I've seen sits slightly crooked when in the up position - most of that is due to the added weight of the chain drive/sprockets/idlers . In reality it's not a big deal and doesn't hurt anything . On my old model I've used that pin broke off and I moved it over 1/2" to help center it to the heavier side - it helped some but still sits a bit crooked when lifted . I've be more concerned with keeping it aligned to the center of the tractor frame to prevent damage to the rock shaft - if the pin is moved much at all it's going to put a heavy side load on the rock shaft and will wear it over time .

 

Cleaning that auger won't be easy - got anyone around that does sand blasting ? Some powder coating shops will blast stuff clean for you for a small fee .

 

Just a note - using a wire wheel will smooth the metal to a certain extent and make it harder for paint to adhere properly . It would be best to use some sort of etching primer to help it bite into the surface of the metal . If you were closer I could blast all those parts in less than 30min and have them ready to be washed/painted - but I doubt you want to drive that far or ship it ...

You need a primer that can really bite into the metal and etch itself deep into those pits to stop the corrosion - or it will come back in short order and rust beneath the paint . This is why blasting is a better option - it cleans down to bare steel better and preps the surface for adhesion .

 

Sarge

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Okay, So no big deal. I did also notice when bringing the it up from storage that the blower was sitting lower when it was lifted. Come to find out the lift flag that I got from WHM1000 was bent a little right at the front of flag for some reason. Not 100% sure how this happened. Don't remember it being like this when I put it away.  

I was thinking being that it's going to take a beating anyhow that I'd hit it with some 120 grit, use the Navel Jelly, wash it and then use the Duplicolor Rust Fix that I used on my dozer blade restore. Which worked out great. it stop rust and prevents it. It smells like acid and gives off a very pungent odor when applied to metal and rust. And then just a few nice coats of Rustoleum Regal Red like the rest. 

I have been using Duplicolors Sefl Etching primer as well over that rust stop and some filler primer in areas needed. All seem to be working out well so far. I have noticed that wire wheel can grind down the metal a bit. 

 All great tips. 

 Got some parts today and just waiting on the bearings for the auger. It was mostly quiet but I figured that since I got it apart, may as well throw some new ones in there. Got everything that I need to attach the thrower to the tractor so I can move it around and out of the way until done, except the lift bar cleaned up, jelly used, washed and Rust Fix Applied. 

 I welded the base of the chute (Shroud) back to the Slide Ring that it was broken off of and riveted to. That turned out pretty well. I'm excited to get it back together and see how well it functions. Seems like old setup was stiff and the direction wire would get bound up a bit. 

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 The Naval Jelly seemed to work pretty well but I had to use it a few times before getting a better result. This photo was taken before cleaning up the bracket that attaches it to the front hitch that you can see just above the place where it connects to the housing in this photo. 

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 Question. It is wise to get all grade 8 fasteners when I reassemble this thing or grade 5 for everything except for the four attachment bracket fasteners and fasteners for both the skids and idler sprockets?

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Grade 5 should be sufficient. The metal bolted together will fail before the fasteners. It is hard to find Grade 5 carriage bolts so mine are Grade 2.

Would you mind measuring the bolt spacing for the bottom wear strip on the housing?

Also how far the bolt holes are from the rear edge of the wear bar. Suspect it was designed to be turned over to double it's life.

Like to add one to my earlier model.

 

Garry

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Okay thanks for the tip. I really like the look of the zinc coated grade 8 though. I guess I'll see what the shops have and go from there. Are there torque specs for the mounting bracket bolts and bearing flanges? or just "Tight"? ;)

 

Okay, there are 9 holes total. So from the inside edge of the side sheet metal of the housing on both sides the measurement is 27/32" to the center of the first hole in from the outside. Next moving inward from both ends is 2.25" Cen-to-Cen and the rest are 4.75" cen-to-cen.

 The scraper bar is 2" wide and holes centered dead on at 1". Made from 3/16 flat stock at 34-9/16" long .......or 34-5/8" if you want it tight. That's on mine. I'm sure there's a 16th or at least a 32nd variance between attachment years and ID's...

 

 Either way, hope this helps! :) 
 

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