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cafoose

520-HC 48 inch deck spindle bearing siezed

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I was mowing today and my 520-HC was leaving tall grass in the center of the path. I looked underneath and the center pulley on the deck was hot and smoking so I parked it and got out my C-120 to finish while it cooled off. I removed the deck and noticed the bearing is seized in the center pulley. Does anyone know where I can get a bearing or should I replace the whole pulley and bearing? How does the spindle look? The one carriage bolt in the deck looks like it has too much wear on it and I think a spacer is missing. What size is the spacer and where can I get one? The spacer pictured is from the front of the deck on the same side. I removed the carriage bolts to get the belt cover off.

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Thanks Garry we can always count on you! :thumbs2:

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4 hours ago, cafoose said:

 

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I was thinking about this and just realized there are no bearings between the pulley and the shaft, :scratchead:the nut just wasn't tight enough on top of the pulley :blink:The pulley is supposed to be tight on the shaft. I guess I was thinking of an idler pulley and a little frustrated, dazed, and confused after it happened. :rolleyes:I still would need the spacer and a new carriage bolt. Is the pulley and shaft okay or should I replace it?

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A die should be run down the threads to clean them - they do not look the best. I'm thinking you have a regular nut and plain lockwasher under it. That nut has to run freely on the threads so the natural rotation of the pulley will keep the nut tight.

Add some Neverseize to the pulley hub so it comes off easy next time.

 

Garry

 

Adding

The spacer isn't still in the housing is it?

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If the spindle bearings are bad they are just run of the mill 6203-2RS.

 

Make sure they both spin free. Top one will simply tap out from the bottom with a long punch.

To get the bottom one out you first need to remove the internal snap ring then tap it out from the top.

 

Spacer goes between the two.

 

And yes, make sure both nuts spin on freely and the pulley should also slide on easily.

 

Top thread is 5/8 NF

Bottom thread is 3/4 NF

 

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2 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

A die should be run down the threads to clean them - they do not look the best. I'm thinking you have a regular nut and plain lockwasher under it. That nut has to run freely on the threads so the natural rotation of the pulley will keep the nut tight.

Add some Neverseize to the pulley hub so it comes off easy next time.

 

Garry

 

Adding

The spacer isn't still in the housing is it?

no the missing spacer goes on the deck right here and that's where the damaged carriage bolt was.20170809_144659.jpg.285e4d5215949113c3b3ffb7fbc576cd.jpg

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Will guess it should be a 3/8" x 1-1/4" carriage bolt so a piece of common Schedule 40 1/4" water pipe  may be used to make a spacer. Bolt is .375" diameter and 1/4" pipe has an ID of .364". The slightly smaller diameter of the threads may allow it to go into the pipe. If not ream it out or use a round file to take out a few thousandths of an inch.

If the bolt has 3 marks on the head it is a Grade 5 and those are hard to find replacements for. Most available have no marks and are Grade 2 so if you can't fine a Gr 5 use the old one.

Try to get a new locknut if you can.

 

Depending on the length of the spacer perhaps you could use a larger nut for a spacer with a flat washer or 2 to get the correct length.

 

Garry

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On 8/10/2017 at 7:30 AM, gwest_ca said:

Will guess it should be a 3/8" x 1-1/4" carriage bolt so a piece of common Schedule 40 1/4" water pipe  may be used to make a spacer. Bolt is .375" diameter and 1/4" pipe has an ID of .364". The slightly smaller diameter of the threads may allow it to go into the pipe. If not ream it out or use a round file to take out a few thousandths of an inch.

If the bolt has 3 marks on the head it is a Grade 5 and those are hard to find replacements for. Most available have no marks and are Grade 2 so if you can't fine a Gr 5 use the old one.

Try to get a new locknut if you can.

 

Depending on the length of the spacer perhaps you could use a larger nut for a spacer with a flat washer or 2 to get the correct length.

 

Garry

Thanks Garry, I got all the parts from a local dealer for under 6 bucks. Details in this thread:

 

 

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