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I was chugging along in 3rd gear mowing the grass last night and the old girl coasted to a stop.  It will go in reverse but not in any of the other gears with me on it.  She will go "slowly" in the gears when I am off.  Checked the dip stick and white foam.  Now I do know that there was fluid in the trans 2 weeks ago because I checked it.  So I am  assuming that something burnt.  Any suggestions for the '72 Raider 10?  My other half wants to get rid of the old girl and that is just not happening.........made that very clear.

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:text-yeahthat:Water in the transmission wouldn't cause that but it needs to be flushed and refilled. It's almost certainly what Bob said. Remember, it only takes one axle key sheared to stop the tractor. I think you may have a 6 speed with the 10 pinion limited slip differential. I really don't know exactly how it would react but it might be why it creeps with no weight on it but it wouldn't go with any authority in any case. It could also be that the hub is tight enough to allow it to creep. :)

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If your model # is 1-0301, your 72 Raider 10 is the same as mine.  It is the #5086 transmission...8 speed with a 4 pinion differential with 1" axles.  The symptoms that you describe are almost certainly a sheared wood ruff key...probably one of the hubs.  check those 1st and then check pulleys.  :)

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Thank you to all who replied to my tread.......not able today or tomorrow but as soon as I can I will let you know.  Thanks again.

 

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Just for my curiosity are there any treads (well detailed) on how to rebuild a transmission of my model year?

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Go to the forum section "Instructional Threads & Videos/Transmissions". You should be able to find what you are looking for.

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Take a look at this thread, has a lot of good info. you can use.

 

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I have not done a video on what amounts to your transmission, but enough videos exist in the reference section that would show separately the differential, the rest of the transmission of a 6 speed, etc.  The difference between a 6 and 8 speed transmission is really in the hi/low mechanism...they work the same and are similar though.  The one video that I do have of the hi/low mechanism will be close enough to walk you through it.  This stuff is really pretty easy...just take good pictures as you take it apart.  If you take good pictures, we can help you with any problem you have.  :)

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Need an update on this - was it the key???

 

Yes, Steve-Os videos have helped me assemble 2 8-speeds, the most recent yesterday... Thanks! The ringing phones in the videos had the kids looking for their cell phones - too funny.

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My other half's family came to visit over the weekend.....they finally left.....told her that I would be looking at the tractor now.  Have the tractor on stands will update later.

 

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I think this must have been an issue before.  I loaned this old girl to my Great Uncle back in 2004 for save keeping till my divorce was finished (I thought for sure that the ex-wife would have tried of making the old girl an issue (she did not tho)).....my Great Uncle "gave" her to my Father  a couple of years later....so somewhere within that time someone changed the right hub (black) compared to the left (red).  So my opinion the axles where an issue and that the axles are worn to the point that the keys will not sit properly. Again this is my opinion.....what does anyone else think?

Croped Right Axel.jpg

Croped Left Axle.jpg

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I can't view the photos for some reason.  Anybody else?

 

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Croped Left Axle 2.jpg

Croped Right Axle 2.jpg

This is what the left and right key looked like.

Croped Both Keys.jpg

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If you or someone you know can weld really good they can be salvaged or a machine shop could do it and/or recut the keyways in the axles, then replace with new woodruff keys, of course "new" axles could be procured, Jeff.

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Here is a thread on doing the repair.

 

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Well I found a new "old" stock axle ....did not haggle just paid the price.  So there is one down and as for the other I am going to give the machinist at work a shot at milling a new slot.  Ordered new keys and now just have to do some research on the procedure of removing the old axles.  I am hoping that by the end of next week the old girl will be back on line.  

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When you get the transmission ready to open up.  Place it with the shallow side (input pulley) down.  You want to take off the deep (brake shaft) side.  Once you take off the side casting, you can just pull out the differential and take it apart and remove the axles and replace.  You will not have to remove any other gears unless you have more going on in there.  The gasket is available from TORO for abut $5  part # 3912.  :)

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15 hours ago, Klinger said:

Well I found a new "old" stock axle ....did not haggle just paid the price.  So there is one down and as for the other I am going to give the machinist at work a shot at milling a new slot.  Ordered new keys and now just have to do some research on the procedure of removing the old axles.  I am hoping that by the end of next week the old girl will be back on line.  

 

I just went thru this ordeal on my C160, both axles and both hubs. Lincoln at A-Z tractors mite have a used axle. It helps if you have the old one out to measure the length and count the splines. Finding good used axles is the best solution. Good luck!

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