Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Well Saturday's the Big Day to Tune & Fire up ( Hopefully ) The C125, Point adjusting, i read so many Blogs, Do i just bring up on top dead center ? or should i pop that plug to see timing marks with a timing light ? Still a Newbie, Big Red Fred ;-) I will start at .016 if i can get it running, New Coil, fuel pump, plug, wire, carb from a 12hp  K301, whats your view's Men on Points ? 0707171758.jpg.4e7320765933489d3b292840bf8441c8.jpg0707171757b.jpg.51fe2dbed6294198a48982a0470a1cc3.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Happily, it's not a Chevy so you don't have to make sure the distributor is not 180 degrees out or the timing 20 degrees out. Set them at .020, make sure 12V is getting to the coil (you can bypass the wiring with a jump straight from the battery, give the carb throat a squirt of cleaner and kick her in the pants.

 

I'm the type that can't sit with a new engine unfired. For my old 125, it was jump to the coil and a screwdriver on the solenoid with Gumout in the carb the day after I pulled it out of the Georgia mud as a freebie - fired right up - well, did after I replaced the coil. Glorious smoke everywhere and the wife screaming that the house was smoky. Ah, memories. After that, the money began to flow from the wallet...

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm an advocate of setting the timing statically, that is using the Timing Marks on the Flywheel and  adjusting the points accordingly-

DSC00633.JPG.041c6584ff583e3f1ca7663342171b27.JPG

 

On an old set up, if you set the points to 20 thou on the firing stroke, it can be way out. I did a test on one of my engines and found it was firing almost on TDC !.

So it depends on how much wear on things like Points, Breaker Rod and Cam Lobe can alter it. Set it to the Flywheel marks and it will be spot on and sound so much better when running. Well worth the extra effort. 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i pulled the fly wheel cover, my eyes are shot, no rust ! That surprised  me ! Found the S mark, got my yellow paint stick out & made a line, set points at 20, fired up, smoking, jap carb that was on it when i bought came off, mounted a carb off a K301 on another horse, was hard to control the throttle, im thinking Governor needs adjusted or just a good old fashion rebuild, change that Gov gear out to a Metal gear, Parts i changed were The Carb, Coil, Fuel pump. Do you guys think that the fuel pump pushing to much fuel ? Newbie question LOL I'm no beginner to Rebuilds, I do Cummins & Cat engines for a living, so a measly Kohler should'nt be that hard

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, Big_Red_Fred said:

mounted a carb off a K301 on another horse, was hard to control the throttle,

:woohoo:     Glad to hear it runs!   Couple of thoughts on the carb. If the carb has not been used lately it could have a little crud build up and a little Seafoam in the gas could clear it up. If the throttle shaft has some play I could be pulling in some excess air preventing it from operating well.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent - so, a tweak here and a tweak there...now I'm inclined to break out my old timing light. If you are wondering on the fuel pump pressure, I would think it unlikely. Of course, you could gravity feed it to see if you get the same result.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Picking up Sea Foam Tonight, i'm gonna tear it down again sunday, after the sea foam, i wanna check valve adjustment 17 to 19 exhaust and 8 to 10 IT, maybe i wasnt top dead center, i had it on the line, The S mark that is, i backed it up counter clock wise and contact closed, i put the carb on from that Raider, i'll replace the Rods & butterflys to see if that makes a difference & pull the adjusting screws & float, clean up with carb cleaner, Doesnt seem to have a lot of compression, ? Maybe it was just me, put compression gauge in spark plug hole, unless my snap on gauge is broke, it didnt register while cranking ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It as compression release so you won't measure much...

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I only give it have throttle, it runs like the Gov isnt working ? Full throttle, Whats your thoughts ?, yes i was up with Red Fever till 1am :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There should be increased resistance on the throttle arm as you increase RPM indicating the governor is good but you can run through the adjustment quickly. Just a wrench and a pair of pliers - you'd be sure. Is the spring present?? You have no idea what a former owner did to it. They could have removed the throttle stop - been there. Only a tach can tell for sure. Some mechanical knock that appears from the balance gears could make it sound 'unstable'. I didn't torque my flywheel on the old 120 I'm working on and the clank was loud. I always miss 1 step in repairs so as least this one was an easy fix, unlike having to drop a Ford tank twice last week.:D

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look up the static timing method - just use an ohm meter and set the point gap where it just breaks the points open at the S mark on the flywheel as it comes around - this is the best overall setting you'll find . Everything wears in over time and even on rebuilt engines you're better off setting them this way . Using this method sets the timing advance where it should be , hence the S mark on the flywheel ....

 

Sarge

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Static Timing

 

I have used this method on K91's through K341's. It has never failed me when done correctly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by rmaynard
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will use my Fluke this week end to set points. A-Z thinks its the Gov gear ? If it is, do you have to tear down the whole way ? or can you get to it from the pan ? I'm told its easy to rebuild a Kohler, i build engines daily, just not Small engines, i wanted to do the ohm test, i heard it makes them run smooth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×