Straight From the Horse's Mouth - The final chapter

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Posted (edited)

I ran across an old lawn mower repair shop that was selling out a few years ago and purchased a Neway valve and valve seat grinder from him.  Just got done cutting new seats and valves on a K-91 I'm going through from a RJ 59 I'm restoring.  Very simple and easy operation with the Neway valve seat grinder and Neway Gizmo valve face cutter.  I was going to take pics to post but forgot to before I came in for the night,  I'll take pics and post in the morning.  I was just wondering if anyone else uses one and absolutely loves it. 

I thought I might post a few pics of some handy tool items I have as I use them in the restoration project just for fun. The belt disc sander is what I use to grind the end of the valves off after cutting process to adjust valve clearances and tolerances.

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Edited by Dhodge
adding pictures
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Careful Hodges...you might find yourself taking orders! :lol:

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I used the Neway seat cutters quite often when I worked at a H.D. bike shop. Wish I still had them.:( Never used the valve grinder, we would just install new valves after lapping.

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I was just looking at a old snap on valve and seat grinder. Not sure if 600$ is worth being able to do my own.

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9 hours ago, slammer302 said:

I was just looking at a old snap on valve and seat grinder. Not sure if 600$ is worth being able to do my own.

They are expensive.  I got a decent deal on mine.  Then I discovered that the Neway factory is in the town I work in so I stopped in and they were as nice as can be.  Ended up buying another size cutter from them. 

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11 hours ago, WHX11 said:

Careful Hodges...you might find yourself taking orders! :lol:

I can do that!!!!  the problem is shipping blocks back and forth is costly compared to the cost of the task.  I do a few locally though.  Helps pay for equipment you know.

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Adding to this thread as I tore into the K91 I found that the flywheel had no place to pull from to utilize a wheel / pulley puller to grip to.  I did not want to ply on it due to the fact that I did not want to break the aluminum housing behind it.  So I had to drill into the cast iron flywheel in order to run threads into it allowing me to use a flywheel puller.  So here is how I went about it utilizing the tools I have on hand with pics.  Powermatic variable speed drill press 

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Next I had to use my drill, whole, tap size chart to determine what size drill bit to use for a 1/4-20 thread

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Found I needed a #7 tap drill bit

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After setting my depth and drilling the flywheel I needed a 1/4"-20 tap

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Here is a pic of the flywheel after drilling and taping to 1/4-20

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I don't know if anybody is interested in this at all.  I thought it might be fun and interesting to some, however I know the vast majority of you guys do these things on a daily basis and it's nothing new. 

On a side note most flywheels have some way of pulling them.  Not this one.IMG_0304.thumb.JPG.53b1199426ecdaed1fee5b70bf092376.JPG

If this is just clutter that no one is interested in let me know and I will quit stinking up the site.  My hopes are maybe some beginners may benefit a bit and others like ACman will get pics of parts of my shop.  He has ask me to post pics several times.  SOOOO. 

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I say ...POST AWAY !!!  :popcorn:

 

 

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Posted (edited)

@Dhodge I personally think these tutorial threads are extremely valuable as we will always have those who are new to the herd and hobby. 

 

You may may want to start another thread though and title it Flywheel Surgury or something so those searching will more easily locate it. 

 

Either way, I enjoy this stuff and you have some nice tooling there!

Edited by Aldon
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You post away like ther ain't no tommorow Hodges and keep that camera clicking. ... we want to learn!:handgestures-thumbupright:

A couple of times I have snuck by by getting pry bars way under the flywheel and GENTLY lifting up on the flywheel while tapping on the crank with a soft faced hammer. Wouldn't try on well seasoned tapers tho. :)

 

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Nice old Powermatic - especially with the rare production slotted table , same reason I bought my old Atlas/Clausing 18" freak machine , made one year only I believe ....

Sarge

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Since I was using wheel pullers I remembered that I had broken one last fall and might as well do a weld job to repair it.  I just used a couple thick washers and welded them on to the flat plat that broke allowing me to bolt the plate back on that's holds the pulling arm to the main body of the puller.  Made a little DC tig weld with the Everlast AC/DC tig welder.  Not the prettiest weld but it will work. I used the pulse feature at about 33% running at 90 amps.  The nice thing about this unit is that I can light up an arc as low as 5 amps so if I have some hood patch work it can be done without blowing holes through the sheet metal.

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20 hours ago, Dhodge said:

If this is just clutter that no one is interested in let me know and I will quit stinking up the site. 

Anyone who is not interested in posts like this is not interested in learning!   Keep the posts coming.  :text-bravo:

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I took the tires off the rims, from the RJ59 this afternoon so I can start sand blasting them when I'm ready.  In doing so I thought I would take pics of another handy little tool.  The good ole Harbor Freight Minnie Tire Changer.  Saves money every time you use it.

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