Jump to content
Mike574

Runs for a while, then no voltage to coil.

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, been studying wiring diagrams to fight this problem I'm having.  My father passed away and I'm trying to keep his two wheelhorses running strong, but this is my first experience working on them.  It's a C-160 automatic.  When it's cold, it starts just fine, then shuts down after about 10 or 15 minutes, no spark.  I've swapped the coil, condenser, plug, and point.  Still no go, so I got out a test light and started poking around.  I'm getting no voltage at the coil post. I can jump a wire from the battery to the post and all is good.  So do I have a stator problem or a regulator problem?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  -Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:WRS:        The first step in any electrical problem is to clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds.

7 minutes ago, Mike574 said:

So do I have a stator problem or a regulator problem?

The charging system only charges the battery, they are not causing this. Chances are there is a connection that is coming loose and dropping the voltage to the coil. Not sure if your model has safety switches on the seat and PTO, but they could have a bad connection or one of them could be going bad. If you have the safety switches they should only be in play with the PTO on. 

Look around and see if any of the connections have a bad terminal also.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ignition power goes from the ignition switch to 1/2 of the pto switch. This is what powers the ignition when the pto is OFF. With the pto ON the seat switch powers the ignition. Operator falls out of seat and the engine quits.

What year and model number? The early models are different.

It may be an ignition switch failure. It is the I (eye) terminal that supplies the ignition circuit.

 

Garry

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats what I was thinking Garry, ignition switch could be the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, 953 nut said:

:WRS:        The first step in any electrical problem is to clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds.

The charging system only charges the battery, they are not causing this. Chances are there is a connection that is coming loose and dropping the voltage to the coil. Not sure if your model has safety switches on the seat and PTO, but they could have a bad connection or one of them could be going bad. If you have the safety switches they should only be in play with the PTO on. 

Look around and see if any of the connections have a bad terminal also.

K, will check/clean all connections that I can.  The safety switches were all bypassed. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Ignition power goes from the ignition switch to 1/2 of the pto switch. This is what powers the ignition when the pto is OFF. With the pto ON the seat switch powers the ignition. Operator falls out of seat and the engine quits.

What year and model number? The early models are different.

It may be an ignition switch failure. It is the I (eye) terminal that supplies the ignition circuit.

 

Garry

Sorry, didn't know what a PTO was, and I'm not quite sure what year, I will see if I can find it next time I'm over there.  The PTO is the shaft coming out of the engine to drive accessories?  In my case, the clutch for the mower deck?  I see no switch there, must have been eliminated as well.  With this information from you guys, my next step should be checking the terminals on the ignition switch I'd guess.  So it should be as simple as battery voltage to the "B" post, and when the switch is turned on, it provides continuity to the "I" post, which goes straight to the coil in my case, since I have no switch.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have it figured out.

You need power at the "I" terminal in the RUN and START positions.

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mike574 said:

 The PTO is the shaft coming out of the engine to drive accessories?

That is correct, if the PTO safety switch is connected it would be where the lever to actuate the PTO is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got it!  The ammeter had shorted.  I found a melted connector plugged in, cleaned it up and still no go.  I bypassed the gauge and everything now works.  Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it!

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, Mike574 said:

everything now works.

:woohoo:   Glad you found the problem and got it going.  :text-bravo:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Commando 800 (no safety switches) that after 35 years of weekly use quit cold.  The problem was the copper coil

wire, after all those years of vibration, work hardened and broke inside of the insulation.  The failure was not noticeable to the

eye but my ohmmeter picked up the lack of continuity.  Replaced the wire and it runs well today

 

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×