Jump to content
BrianK

C-160 Hydro issues

Recommended Posts

Excellent documentation - that is going to save someone a lot of headaches in the future . I have one of those endoscope cameras from Amazon and it actually works pretty well . Got the driver files for both my Android and Win7 laptop so it will work with both - haven't had a chance yet to fully use it but there is a learning curve to it's lens orientation which can get confusing . Lighting isn't bad either but not sure how well it would perform around oils - if nothing else they are cheap enough it's almost disposable .

 

I'd wonder if the oil is changing viscosity enough when hot to allow the implement valve system to allow that pressure drop ? I would also suspect any deviation in the pump shaft is going to cause bigger pressure problems than anything else you've found and would expect replacing it would solve any issues there . If nothing is being held properly to tolerance , there goes it's efficiency in a hurry when dealing with hydraulics . Nice to see very little gerotor wear and it's surprising they used basically raw finished cast iron in it's housing area , odd for sure . I wonder if you contacted that hydraulics place we talked about earlier in this thread if they would have more information and parts related to that shaft - maybe they know about the whole snap ring deal as well...

 

Sarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, roadapples said:

Looking forward to seeing the complete :wh:

 

You and I both buddy!

 

10 hours ago, Sarge said:

Excellent documentation - that is going to save someone a lot of headaches in the future .

Thanks Sarge, I hope it does help someone.

 I have one of those endoscope cameras from Amazon and it actually works pretty well . Got the driver files for both my Android and Win7 laptop so it will work with both - haven't had a chance yet to fully use it but there is a learning curve to it's lens orientation which can get confusing . Lighting isn't bad either but not sure how well it would perform around oils - if nothing else they are cheap enough it's almost disposable .  Yea there is a ton of them on there. I saw some that carried the IP67 label. The one I ordered said it was waterproof so it should be ok with oil but worst case scenario, if it breaks ill just send it back and tell them its not impervious to liquids and get one with the IP67 rating. 

 

I'd wonder if the oil is changing viscosity enough when hot to allow the implement valve system to allow that pressure drop ? I would also suspect any deviation in the pump shaft is going to cause bigger pressure problems than anything else you've found and would expect replacing it would solve any issues there . If nothing is being held properly to tolerance , there goes it's efficiency in a hurry when dealing with hydraulics . Nice to see very little gerotor wear and it's surprising they used basically raw finished cast iron in it's housing area , odd for sure .

 

I dunno. Some pressure drop is expected after the oil heats up and becomes less viscous, but whats got me scratching my head is the implement pressure being 700 cold and warm before the rebuild, and then 650 after the rebuild. The more I think about it, with it being around 15 degrees during the test before the rebuild and 35 ish the other day after the rebuild, I think it might just boil down to me not letting the oil warm up enough during the pre- rebuild test. It started off a lot thicker because it was that much colder and I may have rushed it because it was late and I was freezing haha. Just seems odd I would lose 50 psi after I refurbished the components and made the pump more efficient. On the 1000psi gauge, after the oil got warm, I only dropped about 20psi which I think is very good so me comparing the two tests is probably irrelevant at this point. But I am an over-thinker so ill always wonder.

 

I wonder if you contacted that hydraulics place we talked about earlier in this thread if they would have more information and parts related to that shaft - maybe they know about the whole snap ring deal as well...

 

Good call, I will most likely contact them this week and see what they have to say on the matter. Im guessing they just supplied a new shaft with the new spring clip because most people cant pop their shaft out and have access to a lathe to take off 16 thou to accommodate the beefier clip. There wasn't anything mentioned in the service bulletin about replacing anything else. In fact, now that I mention it I can almost guarantee the shaft is the same. If it wasn't they would have to supply the customer with all new bearings AND a new cylinder housing etc etc...basically a whole new motor, no way. If I need to ill just get the same shaft in new or excellent condition, replace the bearings and machine the recess for the clip out myself and throw a thicker one in there.  :handgestures-thumbupleft:

 

  

 

Edited by BrianK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well another brief update and wanted to let you guys know I'm still kickin this project. 🤘🏻  Things are still working out as planned. The past couple weeks have been spent tying up loose ends and trying to figure everything out with the blower and what not.  I got everything in pieces so it all went together a bit slower than I would have liked, going by the manuals and pics online, since I didn't take it apart...put me at a wee bit of a handicap.

 

I got the blower on and it seems I had all the parts, minus a couple little things, EXCEPT the chute crank handle. 🤔 Weird. I would have sworn I had it, had you asked me. I looked through everything, and no dice. The snowblower parts breakdown  was no help at all as far as rod dimensions so I decided to guesstimate and make my own after a few days of googling didn't turn up a used one. I guess it comes as no surprise, however shocking, Toro wants $97 for the crank handle rod alone 😲....which is asinine. I took some measurements, went to Menards and bought a 3/8 rod for $8, a bronze bushing for the hole in the support for $1 (to prevent any further wallering) a locking collar for $1 and a cap nut for the end of the rod for $.50 because this one didn't come with a rotatable handle on the end, and I wanted one. The handle on Amazon was about $9 Prime. Fired up the torch and a little while later;

IMG_5585.JPG

IMG_5586.JPG

 

Works great...and ill be dad gummed, I get that thing installed and get a text message the next morning from the guy I borrowed the trailer from to pick this whole mess up in.....yep, I left the rod in the trailer. Dummy. O well, mines better anyway. I guessed right on the diameter but my setup has a bushing, a crank handle and it's 7" longer so toro can go pound sand. 

 

I added a bunch of oil to the gearbox, greased the worm gear, chute sprocket, guide ring, auger shaft bearing and found out the the hard way that the 90 degree auger shaft gearbox was packed with grease because the output shaft oil seals are bad so I'll be rebuilding that this summer. 

 

I don't have chains but I got the wheel weights on.  I read that some guys leave the tiller on to help. I had it sittting there so I decided to try it. Oh man does that help with steering. Well we got about a half inch of snow yesterday so guess what I did haha. Fully knowing everything was gonna melt today in the 42 degree wave, I didn't care. It was the perfect functionality test and would give me time to work out any kinks before the next hammering. 

IMG_5588.JPG

 

I ran her at about 3/4 throttle and the snow was so light, that second stage created a whiteout that made me look like the abominable snowman within the first 10' of blowing. This tractor gave no crap at all what was attached to it either. It's like I had nothing on it, flying up and down the driveway like it was a joy ride, plastering mine and the neighbors house with a wheelhorse blizzard. I couldn't be more pleased...and the neighbors knew it if they were outside, thats for sure. If they were on the fence about me being crazy before, I pushed them over last night.  I was laughing my fool head off, soaked to the bone and didn't care, belly laughing up and down the driveway at full speed completely covered in snow. I'd bet money I was the only house in town that cleared their drive but man oh man I haven't had that much fun in a long time. Of course there's a bunch more satisfaction that went along with it...everything finally coming together and all. I know you guys know exactly the feeling I'm talkin about.

 

Anyway, it worked great and I can't wait to get some real accumulation. I'll keep you guys posted. I did get my inspection camera and tried to get into the trans tonight but it's much harder than expected trying to see everything without dunking the lense in oil. I have no idea how it's going to work or if we're even going to be able to see anything interesting but it's fun to mess around. I was in the case for a good 10 minutes lookin around and everything looks clean as a whistle. I got a couple shots, nothing great, but I want to get up close to some more gears. There's a gear almost right at the opening for the fill tube so I don't know if I'll get video of it running but I'm gonna try. 

 

IMG_5590.JPGBottom of the fill tube.

 

Motor output gear. 

IMG_5591.JPG

 

Thanks again guys, Ill be checkin' in soon.

Edited by BrianK
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wait till you get 12" and the neighbors will be begging you to do their driveway.

I had planned on chaining up my tiller for rear weight till I get around to making a ballast box/weights  like other fellas have done here.

Oh and thanks for the tip on the crank as I have one just like it to make. :handgestures-thumbupright:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/11/2017 at 7:40 AM, WHX9 said:

Wait till you get 12" and the neighbors will be begging you to do their driveway. 

 

Haha yep...though I'd be lying if I said I'd mind. I like moving snow for some strange reason. 

On 1/11/2017 at 7:40 AM, WHX9 said:

I had planned on chaining up my tiller for rear weight till I get around to making a ballast box/weights  like other fellas have done here. 

It sure does help. I didn't really lose traction at all unless I floored it. I need to fab something up as well, would just be easier to manage.

On 1/11/2017 at 7:40 AM, WHX9 said:

Oh and thanks for the tip on the crank as I have one just like it to make. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

You bet, glad I could help. I think my bench vise is 4" wide. With the bend radius, the total length came out to just over 5 and a half inches for the vertical bend and just under 5" for the horizontal bend...the part you hold on to when turning...with the rod end about flush with the end of the vice. That seemed like the max length you'd want. Any more than that and a full rotation of the handle would be too much and you'd have to get your upper arm involved in the work. 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still following...  Good to know you got the ole' girl back to almost virgin. The Sundstrand units really are not so difficult to refurbish and I was glad to see you opened up the hyd control valve to clean it out too.  The kind of crud you found in there is what gets into the fluid and crashes stuff.  Not sure if really needed or not, but to change the fluid with new filter may be a good idea...cheap insurance...after 25 hours or so.  That is, just to keep the grinnin' going.  

And so the addiction begins...... 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×