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BOB ELLISON

analog tachometer for C160

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Just a little info.

I used a Tach from a 520 on my Ford LGT165 with a Kohler K341 and used the same stator input as the 520 used.

Connected to the voltage regulator AC line just like the 520.

 

It worked perfectly.

 

Kohler and Onan must use the same number of magnets and coils.

 

May not work on every Kohler but worked on mine.

 

Unfortunately, the 520 tach's are hard to find and costly.

 

The newer plastic Toro ones are more plentiful than the old metal SW ones.

 

I used the old style on my Ford.

 

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3 hours ago, cleat said:

Just a little info.

I used a Tach from a 520 on my Ford LGT165 with a Kohler K341 and used the same stator input as the 520 used.

Connected to the voltage regulator AC line just like the 520.

 

It worked perfectly.

 

Kohler and Onan must use the same number of magnets and coils.

 

May not work on every Kohler but worked on mine.

 

Unfortunately, the 520 tach's are hard to find and costly.

 

The newer plastic Toro ones are more plentiful than the old metal SW ones.

 

I used the old style on my Ford.

 

Cleat 

I have read other posts about the 520h Tachometers do work on the C series as long as it's a 18 post stator  which mine is, but there hard to find and expensive if you do find one. I looking for a small 0-4000 rpm tack that is aforable for us to use on these old horse's. I did order a tack that might or might not work for less then $50.00.

I'll try and see what happens.

I know someone will post a fix sooner or later.

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On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 7:49 AM, cleat said:

 

Well guys you decide

I got the tach on and bought a handheld tach to test it and this is what I got.

I will post a diagram later today in how I connected it to my C160.

Not sure if handheld is reading correctly or tach is correct. 

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Did you have to do any modifications or just set the dip switches ?

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Awesome, it works. Readings are close enough in my opinion. Can you also post the link to where you got it? I looked into it before but it has been over a year.

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Great job....I agree that the reading seem close enough to me. Looks like I might be doing this mod sometime in the near future

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 Well I haven't mounted it to the C160 yet I have to think about that, I'm not much for cutting the horse but I might have to. NOT much room

on it for gages. I have two places where it can go it is outlined with blue , One is on the plate below the volt meter (water might get in there)

and the other is on the top left of the tower .Right on top left is a flat spot as in the 1st picture. I'm also adding a diagram of how I will wire it.

If anyone see anything wrong please tell me, If any one wants the tachometer here is where I got it.http://www.ebay.com/itm/131996046818.

It WAS $44.00 and took 9 days to get here,

I don't like the light the way it pushes into the tack but I will fix it if I mount it in the cover so it wont fall out from all the vibration.

When I was testing it I used a needle to Pearce the wires coming from the stator that way I didn't have to cut both wires.

  ONLY 1 WIRE WILL WORK AND THE OTHER WILL NOT.

All I did was adjust the second dip switch  to on and use the fine adjustment screw, it takes a very small flat head screw driver.

the wiring is per the instructions . IT WORKS FOR ME.  

 

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I would mount it where it is easy to read and out of harm's way.

I would dread drilling into the dash. Maybe you could mount it where the volt meter is and put the volt meter in the tunnel cover.

 

You could wire the light to your headlights so it is not on all the time.

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On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 7:49 AM, cleat said:

 

 

16 minutes ago, cschannuth said:

Will this work on the twin Briggs?

I don't know if it will or not, if a 520h tach will work on the twin briggs then this should work. That is my guess.

Edited by BOB ELLISON
keeps posting from another quote

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Well I got the tachometer installed . I had to move the volt meter down on the plate and cut a hole in it . The tachometer was to long to mount on the plate.  Not yet wired but what a job working in cramped space and on my knees.  I will hurt for 2 days. Tomorrow I will fire it up after I double check all the wires are correctly installed.

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36 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

:rolleyes: Looks :wh: factory installed there. :handgestures-thumbsup:

There's just not a lot of room on the C 160 and B80  tractors for gages. I had a c105 it had a lot of room. Next spring I think I'll get a 300 or 400 series . I may order a few more of these tachometer  just in case.

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Did you try connecting the Signal terminal to ignition coil or that did not work. Instructions seem to indicate it can be connected to either one?

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I have a problem with the tachometer
i wired the tach and installed it in the hole i made and it would read zero when i started the tractor.

I removed it and ran a
positive wire to the battery,
neg to batt then
signal wire to stator .
STARTED TRACTOR IN MY HAND AND IT WORKS.
with my ohm meter I checked all the connections and all were OK.
Using the wires I ran I again with tack in hand I connected it and started tractor and no reading,
I unplugged the light and tack starts working ?????
I took a ground wire and touched case and tack goes to zero remove ground and it works.
I don't know if its the stator wire causing it or if the tack is grounded inside wrong.
I did change the dip switch's to off,off,off. I fined tuned it to almost perfect to the handheld tack.
It works good but I don't want to have to hold it to plow snow.
If anyone has any ideas please share. I know this tack will work good if I can just figure this out.
Does it need a diode in the wire from stator ???
Where is all the electronic gurus at.
 
 

16 hours ago, formariz said:

Did you try connecting the Signal terminal to ignition coil or that did not work. Instructions seem to indicate it can be connected to either one?

I did try to connect it to coil but I cant remember if it was while I was having grounding problems. read my other post on it. 

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I'm waiting for a answer from the factory on why tack is having a ground problem. I think it is defective but I will wait for them to decide. I did get it to work and read perfectly with the handheld tack. I could mount it in hole but I can't let the case ground to the tractor  and no light. It's got to be a internal short . If I don't here from them I'll take it apart and see for myself. I hate to have to do that. Maybe meadowfield or someone will chime in.

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I've lost track of everything you have done.

If you are using a stator wire for the signal try the other one. I do know one of the stator leads is connected directly to the DC+ output on some if not all regulators. This may be affecting your results.

 

Garry

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One last post untill I get a new Tach from India. I posted about a problem with the case being grounded inside when it not supposed to be.

Well the answer from the manufacturer was that the potentiometer is grounding to the case and I should try to ply it off case through the adjustment hole. I tried and no go. So I'll have to get a replacement and that will take another 2 weeks or longer . Bad quality control  I guess

I'm sorry for all the delays .

But I did get the tach to work and it worked good I just got a bad one. I will start a new post when I get it up and running right.

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Well guys it in and I'm done.

All the work I did has payed off. I haven't gotten the new Tach that is being sent but I did text the manufacturer  and they said a new one was on the way and for me to keep the first tach with a ground bad inside. As soon as he said to keep it I started trying to take it apart. Well I got it opened up and it was the potentiometer  shorted to the case as he said it was.

I did try to force it in but ended up filing it to work . I reassembled it and it works great. The pictures will tell it better. First pic is the little pot giving all the problems. It was touching the inside of the case and shorting out the tach .

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On Thursday, November 24, 2016 at 11:24 AM, cleat said:

Did you have to do any modifications or just set the dip switches ?

Cleat only had to change dip switchs.

But I did try different dip settings and off,off,off, worked the best.

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On 21/11/2016 at 0:21 PM, meadowfield said:

the two chinese ones I ordered came, I just need to find time to modify them :D

 

Ive modified them, just need to calibrate them.

 

 

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Ok I finally received my replacement tachometer from India. This one works as it should so after repairing the first tach with a short problem I now have 2 tach. I was asked by formariz if it worked on coil . Well it did register but I couldn't get close to the actual rpm"s the tractor was turning so I have to say no to coil hookup. Meadowfield has a really nice setup for tach's that work good and I hope he starts to sell them here. I took a chance and found one that will work but I can say now there not a high quality tach but they do work.

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